e-revo weakness diff
 

so ive been running one of my e-revo for about a month and i blow up 4 rear diff and one front.....w.t.f:whistle:they are suposed to be stronger than before????my spur is not to thigh,,,

my set-up is

mmmv3,6 cell lipo 1515 1,5y geared for 35mph(18/65)and big joe tire...<(could it be my issue)

timing lowest,punch control 100%

and i also broke 12 shaft:surprised:

its winter here...i was thinking that running in winter was better and smoother for the drivetrain,,,i was wrong

forget to say that ive never broke any diff in both(3)of my truck last summer....why i dont know:no:?

Do you shim your diffs? It could also be that your diff housings (bulkheads I think) are worn out.

Those big tires aren't helping! Been running my E-REVO since they came out, no diff problems so far. I've run 4, 5, and 6s on my 1515 2.5d. I have only run the talons and badlands which put much less strain on the drivetrain than Big Joes

The diff's in your Revo are no different than the original 2.5R Revo. Same Gears, same cases.

Running in the winter is actually a little harder on parts. The plastics get brittle, and they have a different coefficient of expansion than steel parts, so the way parts fit together at 20 degrees is different than at 80 degrees. Maybe enough to cause misalignment on rotating parts, maybe not.

Like E-Revonut said, those big joes can be deadly with the right amount of power.

There actually different.

how so?

i had a 2.5 and i now have a platinum and they are the same

try losening the slipper alittle more and dont gun it or brake hard after landing a jump and they should hold up alot better

aluminum cases and the inner brace will help but the only other fix is the massively over priced FLM conversion :diablo:

I'll bite...how so? I've been buying the same parts since day one - haven't noticed anything different.

I think Squee was correct, or maybe more that I was somewhat incorrect. The original 2.5R had an "I-Bar" set up in it. I dont recall my first one having that - but...one doesnt always recall everything! The 3.3 diffs are configured the same as the E-Revo, just some parts have an X designation, which may or may not mean something

I just came in to bash Big Joe tires. I got a set for my MGT running a LRP .28 and the performance using the Big Joe vs the stock tires (which are taller) is VERY noticeable. Ditch the Joes, they are way too heavy.

What part of the diff is breaking?

If it's the ring/pinion; proper shimming should help. And make sure the diff cases aren't deformed.

If it's the inside of the diffs, a metal cup should help. They only use two spider gears, so that will tend to flex the stock diff cup more under heavy acceleration.

the e-diff's are different from the nitro diff's, the e-diff's use a spider gear support bar :mdr:

proper shimming of the diff is necessary for both e-powered/nitro IMO

i run shimmed, alu diff's with Robinson R&P :yes:

It appears you are correct - I had my pages mixed up, hence why I didn't recall seeing that support in there.

Looking at the exploded view, it appears that there is only one spider gear - is that correct?

The diffs of the nitro Revo and the ERevo are different. The nitro uses the TRA5381 diff case. The ERevo uses the TRA3978 diff case that comes with metal blocks for the spider gears' pin and to accommodate for the TRA5382X metal block that go between the two spider gears. These metal parts are what is supposed to make the diffs stronger and the EREvo diff case is different from the nitro one so that the metal blocks fit in it. There are two spider gears in the diffs but for some reason the exploded view only shows one.

Correct...For the most part. If I'm not mistaken, that support bar is now in the newer model 3.3 as well as the E-Revo, Slayer, and the T-Maxx 3.3 and E-Maxx 3905.

They pretty much all have it now I believe, but the original 2.5R and the old 3.3 didn't.

If you go and check the exploded views of the T-Maxx Classic, the newer T-Maxx 3.3, the Revo #5308 and #5309, the Platinum Edition Revo and the Slayer, you won't see any of those metal parts in the diffs that are in the diffs of the electric Traxxas vehicles, E-Maxx, ERevo. But of course I can only refer to what I see on the exploded views of those vehicles as I don't have experience with all of them. But I'm pretty sure that those reinforced diffs were introduced only in the electric versions of the Revos and T-Maxxes.

I was looking at the exploded views on the Traxxas site earlier, and those dont show up on the 3.3 exploded views. If they are holding up better, not sure why one couldnt use them. I do have to say that since I went to the AL cups, I havent had any prob's with mine.

AFAIK the 5308 REVO does not use the support bar, it is only stock on the electric model's....

i run new new diff(tougher version)this is the ring gear/pinion who ''strip''after 5 pack....so where a can shim that????

Shimming the diffs involves two sections:

- between the bearings and the diff on each of the outdrives. This moves the pinion closer or further away from the ring gear.

- between the pinion and the pinion bearings. This pushes the pinion closer to the diff cup.

If either of these are off far enough, you are not getting a good mesh and could strip the tops of the teeth off. Of course, even if shimmed perfectly, a powerful enough setup will destroy them anyway.

I had my BL Revo (converted 2.5, 9XL, 14 cells) for about a year or so and never had a diff problem.

My bad. I could have sworn I saw the nitro ones start to use them as well. Still, the E-Revo and Revo diffs are different. That was the original debate anyway. :lol:

Warm beer comin' your way!!!:intello:

It gets confusing because when the original 2.5 Revo was released, and the 2.5r and the 3.3, they all used the same diffs. The new Revo 5308, 5309 and Platinum edition also use those same diffs. The diff carrier for the nitro Revos, the Slayer and the 3.3 TMaxx is TRA5381. The electric version of the diff carrier used in the ERevo, EMaxx is TRA3978 and it comes with the metal spider gear braces. These braces will not fit in the TRA5381 diff carrier of the nitro vehicles. Here is a pic of the nitro diff carrier on the left and the ERevo diff carrier on the right. You can see the recesses in the ERevo diff carrier for the spider gear braces. Surprisingly, if you need to get the output gears TRA5382X, they are the same for both the nitro and the electric. It is basically the output gears used in the EMaxx and come with the center metal ''I bar''. Originally, the output gears part # was TRA5382. Apparently, this has been discontinued and replaced with the EMaxx TRA5382X that includes the I bar and can be used in both nitro and electric diff carriers.
Also when you look at the exploded view of an ERevo diff, it shows a drawing of the nitro Revo diff carrier even if it cannot be used with the ERevo's spider gear braces, that were originally released in the EMaxx :lol:

I'm stopping 'cause I'm starting to confuse myself.

I have to ask if you do standing back flips on a regular basis?

The nitro and electric diffs are different!

I have also killed a bunch of diffs using 40 series tires(mmm combo geared for 38mph). I switched to badlands and havent had a diff issue since. I was blowing the diff cup apart b/c the super gripp/heavy losi super bolt-ons

Well I have tpo eat my words! After running a Nitro revo for over a year and an E-Revo for nine months I finally destroyed a diff. As much as I would love the hybrid diffs I just can't justify the price. I was going to get parts and rebuild mine till I looked on ebay. I found complete diffs out of an E-Revo from a chop shop for 10.99 buy it now! I bought 2 complete diffs with shipping for less than $30.....Now it's time to wait for them to come.

well i changed my tire for about a week...wow no destroyed diff since ive do this move:yes:but my driving shaft are tired(new one are in the mail:whistle:).....but everything run well

the best winter tire that ive run,,,maxx mulcher serie40....no baloon effect,light(320grammes tire+rim) and a lot of grip:whip:

what size diff shims and where to get them
 

after a year i lost a diff after a violent crash bent my rpm arm and drive shaft! I rebuilt with the aluminum drive cup. However id like to shim them to make sure they are tighter - what size shims and where to get?

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...29&postcount=4 i use shim's from HPI & associated :yipi:

diff problems
 

im with you i race my erevo 2 weekends a month and yet to brake a diff on 3,4,5,or 6s

Hi mate; woudl you be able to towerhobbies link me to thse shims? cant seem to find them!

Thanks

There's always the RCM V3 Hybrids.

If you have the $200. :lol:

For the budget minded like me, if you're willing to do some work and have some tools to do it. Losi LST XXL diffs in the ERevo. Got the complete diffs on ebay from one of these ebay stores.

nitro-master
jennys_rcsport