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Petition for new switches
Today while running my truggy along with Eovnu87435ds and his buggy. Both cars are running the MMM v3. upon landing jumps the esc shuts off, come to find- the switch gets flipped to Off by the force of the landing. this happened numerous times to both vehicles.
Castle Creations please include switches that match the quality of your speed controllers. |
Sure, I'll vote yes, but I usually replace them anyway...
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i just cant have that happen on the track.. I need to replace mine or bridge it. havent decided yet. |
I usually mount mine the opposite way so the impact turns them on rather than of off.
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If using a better switch means the ESC will cost more then no. I'm fine with cutting off the switch and grounding the wires together or solding the traces on the PCB together. The only thing a switch is handy for is re-binding my Spektrum.
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My switch is mounted facing up. with the slider at the top perfectly vertical and a landing shut it off. no side-to-side motion on the truck at all
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I say yes also, all 3 of my MMM's have had switch problems. I just cut them off now
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A switch is also good for preventing the spark next time you plug in the battery. If you shut it off by the switch before unplugging the battery then the caps remain charged, and voila- no spark! If you shunt the switch then the MMM will always discharge the caps when you remove the battery and so you will always have the biggest spark possible when you plug them in again.
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I've always had my plugs spark whenever I plug them in regardless of the switch. Even a good switch will get damaged, I tried putting one on my Rustler and it broke after enough use as well as any other switch unless it costs a rediculous amount of money. I'd rather spend less money on the ESC and not deal with the switch.
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The switches are horrible. The most horrible switches ever. The MM switches are crap too.
I cut them off and put deans mini connectors on wired to a good switch (nitro leftover.) The switches are always a pain to mount as well, so if I have to remove the esc, I leave the switch in place. The nonpolar mini deans can be shunted too if you wanted to bypass the switch. |
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should be built into the esc. |
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So now my V3 will spark each time a pack is connected, no matter what the switch status was. There must have been some hardware change(like a resistor across the power poles) caused this change. |
Interesting. I hadn't noticed that. :neutral:
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I believe the switch should be mounted in the esc case. There are enough things to mount, and enough wires. |
I voted no, I've never had a problem with switches on any of my castle escs. I reckon everyone else is just doin' it wrong :p
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switches.
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orientation doesnt change it. |
I've had mine shut off countless times, In numerous mounting locations, so put me down as a yes.
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I would like a switch built into the case. Like the old novak cyclone. Its a cool idea to me but maybe I am wrong.
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Yes vote. Great ESCs poor switches.
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I've never had it switch of but I've had a couple of the switchs just stop working. Just cut it off & solder the wires togeather.
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I've told my story many times but here it goes again. Last year at the bash I had my v2 stop twice, thought it was dead, ran out and grabbed my truck only to find it was the switch. My switch was mounted so that it moved side to side, trying to eliminate it shutting off from a landing on the front or rear bumper. I beleive it was actually my battery leads that hit it and turned it off though. Since then I haven't had any problems.....cause I remove the switch and solder the wires together. What pupose does the switch serve anyways? The esc will still drain your batteries with the switch off. My new MMM in my RC8T didn't get hooked up to anything till the switch was removed. By removing the switch it's also one less thing to deal with mounting, and on my E-Revo I can remove my MMM and motor with 4 screws in about 45 seconds and hose it off when needed without having to deal with a switch.
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Get alot better switches (these realy suck) or add possibility in program to disable switch use.
Ones that were used in MM and Sidewinder were total crap, switch in sidewinder broke at second turn, switch in MM just got so loose that it turned off from little crash. Product is great, but these switches ruin general impression. |
I like having a switch for various reasons, one being if you need to kill the motor/esc real quick and don't want to go digging underneath the body to pull plugs apart. Its happened.
And the switches do loosen up (and the MM/SW break easy.) If it hasn't happened, you aren't driving hard enough :P |
Yes. the current switches turn off all the time. every time you tumble it turns off. i just hot wired mine and did away with it
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Alternatively, you could make a little jumper out of a small (1.5mm) bullet connector. This would have the effect of tying them together yet offer the quick shutdown Finnster mentioned. And it would be lighter as well. Just an idea...
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I like the jumper idea the best. It's hard to get a switch that can stand up to the abuse we put out trucks through. The switch on my MGM has come off a few times and I have soldered it back on a few times but I lost it completely a few weeks ago. I just live without it.
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With this I think there needs to be a circuit breaker which protects the unit from too many amps and causing a fireball like mine did.
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A circuit breaker has several disadvantages:
- They operate too slow. You could have a fatal problem happen before the CB has a chance to respond. - They are large/heavy. The negative on this should be apparent. - They introduce resistance in the circuit. - Would be difficult to size it right. You want it to allow the high current surges that the motor will legitimately pull, yet blow if "bad" current is pulled. How is it to know when the current pulled is "ok" or a sign of a problem? - CC has integrated in thermal shutdown, which is probably the easiest/best way to implement catastrophic shutdown. Trouble is, it sometimes doesn't react fast enough. |
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has nothing to do with a switch. |
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Just design a vacuum chamber into your R/C and put the MMM in it. If there is no O2 there can be no fire! :mdr:
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And with a vacuum the esc may stay cooloer, I mean look if you do a google for the contains they store Liquid Nitogen in.
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Actually the ESC would get hotter, faster because the only way it could cool down would be radiant heat (infrared). There would be no matter to allow conduction of heat via physical contact.
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I dont't hate the switch, but just want it covered by a good dust condom, 'cause all my MMMs' switches were killed by dust.
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fan will be come an oil cooling pump:intello: |
When I hook up my watt meter and turn the switch off the amp load is 0. Are you guys sure the ESC drains the battery with the switch off? Now switch on, it does measure a very small load enough to drain the battery. There has been a couple times when I take a tumble and the switch turns off. Made me a bit worried on my V3, but then I just check it and turn the switch on and everything is good again.
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