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My e-revo brushless edition build
There are too many rules governing the kiddie forum so I was asked to post this here. So here it is. Hope you enjoy.
MY E REVO BRUSHLESS EDITION BUILD First thing I did before even trying it was to take the TQ transmitter and receiver and install that in my son's Mini T. Then I installed my DX3R receiver, an ACE single servo, Proline steering arm and EC3 connectors. I also made a custom antenna tube. The pics: http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...vo/th_box1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...vo/th_box2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...riel_erbe1.jpg And after it's first run on the street and grass. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/th_erbe1.jpg Here's my ERBE 8 hours after I got it. I just can never leave well enough alone. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...in_pieces1.jpg But I guess it's good to check everything out because after only one 12 minute run, one of my diffs, the front one sprung a leak. And there were a couple of screws that were stripped with the plastic of the chassis melted on the threads. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._oily_diff.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ed_screws1.jpg |
6 MM ALUMINUM MOTOR PLATE
Something I did while the chassis and rockers are taking a bath in black RIT dye. I am using two stock aluminum motor plates together. I painted them black with high temp paint I have that has to be cooked at 650 degrees for an hour. Though stuff. I made a carbon fiber motor plate before this and I used it for a while but I was having some temp issues with the motor. My guess is that the aluminum motor plate will help dissipate heat better than carbon fiber. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...tor_plate2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...tor_plate1.jpg Since this extra motor plate sets the motor back 3 mm I had to trim the rear shock tower for the back of the motor. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...tor_plate7.jpg I also had to sand down the fins behind the slipper back plate. The slipper disk pictured here is the carbon fiber one I don’t use anymore. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...tor_plate6.jpg And this is an idea I had about the base of the motor mount. The top of the motor mount is held firmly in place by the screw that holds the gear mesh, but the base just pivots and floats on the plastic motor mount pivot block. I wanted the base of the motor mount to be held in place has firmly has the top when the gear mesh is set. Here's what I did and that I'm going to try out. On the left is the plastic motor mount pivot block I modified. I cut off the little nob and it is now a little shorter than the stock one on the right. I also made M4 X .7 threads in the hole so that the screws would go in easily. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w.../th_pivot1.jpg An M4 X 10 mm screw with a large washer on the back to hold the pivot block firmly on the motor mount. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w.../th_pivot2.jpg The plastic motor mount pivot block has now two screws, the back one to hold it firmly on the motor mount and the front one to pull the motor mount and pivot block against the motor plate and hold it firmly. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w.../th_pivot3.jpg Now when I want to set the gear mesh, I have two screw to loosen, the top and the bottom one. Not a problem at all has I have to loosen the bottom screw only an eight of a turn to have the motor pivot. |
LST2 DIFFS
The power of the MMM on 6S apparently shredded a few of the stock diffs so I decided to follow Lincpimp’s lead on his project of putting LST diffs in a Revo. The output shafts are Revo stub axles with the threaded part cut off . http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_4cbf78b3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_893fa0f6.jpg I removed as much material from the outside of the LST2 diff casings as I could so that they would fit inside the Revo bulkheads. Then I painted them black to make them look good. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...diff_case2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...diff_case1.jpg I trimmed the stops under the chassis for the diffs to fit. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...trim_rear1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...rim_front1.jpg |
I will use Traxxas Summit shafts all around this ERBE. I also want them for the center shafts. I put two set screws on either end of each shafts with blue Locktite.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_c76c24d1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_6e1fb542.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_07c3c6aa.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_8152f7f2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...er_shafts1.jpg |
8th SCALE CENTER DIFF
The 8th scale center diff in a Revo all started with a guy naming himself ‘’CowboyRay’’. He made an 8th scale CD using a Thunder Tiger TTR S3 buggy center differential. His design required extensive machining to be done and was financially out of reach of many. Some people tried to take over this design and tried to market this CD but the financial aspect was a problem again. It was just very expensive to produce and the sale price was high. Cowboy made and sold a few hundreds of them and then stopped when Traxxas came out with their own version of a center differential with rear brake. Then I saw on the RC Monster forum a guy named ‘’sjcrss’’ made an 8th scale center differential with parts of an Ofna Hyper 7 buggy CD that did not require the help of a machinist or machining equipment. Having at least a drill press or access to one helps a lot though. The hardest part of making this CD is definitely making M3X.5 threads in hardened steel. So I went with sjcrss’ idea of using the hardened steel spur gear as the diff cap and CowboyRay’s idea of using Thunder Tiger parts. I modified the ERBE’s output gear TRA3984X and I modified these two parts, TRA5415 and TRA5416. They are the output shafts for the Revo 3.3 center diff. The Thunder Tiger spur gear PD1893 http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._tt_s3_cd2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._tt_s3_cd3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._tt_s3_cd4.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._tt_s3_cd5.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._tt_s3_cd6.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_d3e29377.jpg |
The Traxxas TRA3984X output gear
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...984x_gear3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...984x_gear2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...984x_gear1.jpg The Traxxas TRA5415 and TRA5416 output shafts http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._tt_s3_cd6.jpg The Thuder tiger diff parts, diff case PD1897, diff gear set PD1895 http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._tt_s3_cd1.jpg The modification done to the Thunder Tiger PD1897 diff case http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_aacc8f9c.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_4a80c664.jpg The final product http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._tt_s3_cd8.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._tt_s3_cd7.jpg |
ZERO SLOP 17 MM OFNA ADAPTERS
The Ofna adapters are tough and cheap. The Traxxas adapters are very similar except for the splines. Both of them have slop that gets worse with time because they get grinded by the threads of the stub axles. There are other systems out there that require the use of 8 mm stub axles or stub axles with no threads but they end up being expensive, although they are very good. Also there are cheaper styles that work great but I started with Ofna before any other systems came out and with the modifications I did, they have been working so well that I don’t see why I should change anything. GETTING RID OF THE SLOP http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_af83691e.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_e1fe78e2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_4a53b28e.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_9c21f6be.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_681c3898.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_b3ac61d9.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_4cb7f27a.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_4d8c4878.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_e0669b0e.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_1f0af83a.jpg |
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GETTING RID OF THE LOCKTITE
Here's a couple things I do to stop the need for Locktite. Some slots Dremeled in the nuts, they bite in the wheel's plastic and they don't come of by themselves and a groove around the adapter for an O ring to keep the set screw from backing out. This has been race and bash tested for a long time. It works. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_9d6f8dcf.jpg I mount the adapter on a spare stub axle so that I can chuck it in the drill press. I make it turn at medium speed and with a cut off wheel on my Dremel, I can make a clean groove for the O ring. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_4597e53f.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_2d8995f3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_8ef3dc35.jpg |
SPECIAL TOOL
I made a simple tool to screw in or out the little tubes I made. It works great and doesn't damage the part like a flat head screw driver can. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_4eb56556.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_0533b36a.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_057a0396.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_0b1df0fa.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_61d05478.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_0162467c.jpg |
ALUMINUM SLIPPER DISK
Nitro vehicles use aluminum clutch shoes inside hardened steel clutch bells so there's the hardened steel slipper disk already on the ERBE, why not use an aluminum slipper pad. So that's the route I decided to take. I have been extensively testing this slipper for the past month and it is holding up to just about any kind of abuse I give it. I tried a carbon fiber slipper disk before that and it held up for a while but failed once it got the abuse of racing at the track. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ipper_pad1.jpg This is how the disk looks after more than 25 cycles of 4, 5 and 6S runs at the track and bashing. The middle disk is the test one, the left one is new and to the right is the slipper steel plate. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ipper_pad2.jpg Here are the measurements to make one out of a piece of aluminum anywhere between 2 and 3 mm thick. I tried to be as accurate as I could with the measurements. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...dimension1.jpg BULKHEADS I have a tendency to over tighten screws sometimes. Especially with the plastic bulkheads. I feel these need to be sitting as tight as possible against the chassis but I often stripped the threads in the plastic trying to do so. I installed some Dubro brass inserts to deal with this problem. Now I can torque those screws very tight and I believe that this helps make the bulkheads sit very snuggly against the chassis adding to the overall structural strength. I used the 4-40 inserts for the screws that go through the shock towers and 6-32 inserts for the rest on the screws. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_244d5bf2.jpg ROCKER POSTS I don't know about you but when I want to take the rockers arms and this happens, it annoys me. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...cker_post1.jpg The P2 progressive rockers will be used but this is a small modification I like to do to the rocker posts. I take out the M4 button head screw, I make sure the rocker post is firmly screwed to the bulkhead. Then I take an M4X.7X16 mm set screw and screw it firmly in the rocker post with red Locktite. I then use an M4 Nylok nut to secure the rockers. Whenever I need to take a rocker out, the post stays in the bulkhead. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...cker_post1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...cker_post2.jpg REAR BODY POST There’s not much to say about the rear body post but I just wanted to show what I did to it. The body post used on the ERBE is the same as the 3.3 Revo with Easy Start so it has this orifice in it for the Easy Start plug. It is not used for the ERBE so I sanded it off with a sanding drum. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_ef1a65e8.jpg AXLE CARRIERS This is something I always do with the axle carriers. I use a longer screw and a lock nut. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._carriers1.jpg |
STEVE SLAYDEN STEERING MODS
The full ''Steve Slayden Steering Mod'' ( http://www.traxxas.com/support/kb_se...472&artlang=en )was done on this ERBE and also the front bulkheads have been modified to accept 5 caster clips. If you shave some material from the upper A arms, you can even go with 6 caster clips. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ter_clips1.jpg ON/OFF SWITCH I read a few posts about people that do not use the on/off switch as it becomes contaminated with dirt and dust and quickly becomes useless. I'm trying this, I hope it works because I like to have the switch as a way to quickly turn off the MMM until I can take the truck back to my pit table to disconnect the batteries. I will be racing this truck so I can't loose time screwing around in the pits to disconnect my batteries. When my race is over, I want to just flick the switch off and take my turn marshalling on the track. After I'm done marshalling, I can take back the truck to my pit table and disconnect the batteries. I also made a little thing that pivots to keep the switch from going to the OFF position by itself. A little trick from Joel ‘’Magic’’ Johnson back in the early 90s. The green and red squares are just sticker on a piece of scrap Lexan trimmed to fit the top of the switch. It’s a visual aid, green means go, red means no go. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...th_switch1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...th_switch2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...th_switch3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...th_switch4.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...th_switch5.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...th_switch6.jpg MUD FLAPS The front wheels throw a lot of things to the back of the truck while driving it. Dirt, sand, mud, rocks, dog poo. To keep the rear shafts and suspension cleaner and protect the shaft's dust boots, I make mud flaps from scrap Lexan pieces or thick rubber. In this case, the are rubber held with zip ties. This really works. Also no one noticed but I always switch my rear shafts around so that the dust boots are close to the center. The dust boot trick is from ''WUDS'' on Revo-World.com. Thanks WUDS. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._mud_flap2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._mud_flap1.jpg |
REAR SHOCK TOWER SHIM
I made this carbon fiber shim that goes under the rear shock tower, it raises the shocks just enough so that the springs don’t rub on the chassis at full suspension extension. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ower_shim1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ower_shim2.jpg REAR SKID PLATE PROTECTOR I made a rear skid plate protector much like the one I made long ago for my 3.3 Revo. It's just a piece of 1/16'' thick steel. It wraps around the rear portion of the skid plate and is secured on the middle skid plate with a screw and nut for added strength. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...kid_plate3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...kid_plate4.jpg MOTOR MOUNT I’ve SEEN some people do this and thought it looked good. I painted the motor mount black and sanded the fins. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._heatsink1.jpg AMB PERSONNAL TRANSPONDER The MC Carbon Racing carbon fiber plate that covers the hole in the chassis left by the single steering conversion is where I decided to mount my PT for racing. I made a big notch in the cover plate because the AMB Personal Transponder does not always transmit well through carbon fiber. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ansponder1.jpg Here is the AMB PT mounted in the truck with aluminum screws and nylon nuts and from underneath, the notch lets the PT transmit clearly to the AMB track loop. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ansponder2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ansponder3.jpg |
Since I will never use this ERBE in water, I decided to modify the receiver box to help get more room to pivot the motor to change the pinion or spur without removing it. I sanded off the portion of the receiver box where the wires go in.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...eiver_box1.jpg I am now left with two large openings that I will block with a piece of closed cell foam glued to the box with CA glue. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...eiver_box2.jpg Here is the foam glued to the box to block those openings. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...eiver_box3.jpg A tiny hole in the foam for the receiver antenna to go through. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...eiver_box4.jpg And a small slot for the wires to go in the box. The foam wraps around the wires and will keep dirt and dust from coming inside the box. Here is just an extension wire to demonstrate. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...eiver_box5.jpg I can now pivot the motor far enough to change my pinion or spur gear without removing the motor completely. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...eiver_box6.jpg HOP UPS PUSHRODS AND TURNBUCKLES I am using the Traxxas aluminum red pushrods and Traxxas aluminum red turnbuckles. I would rather have them black but the black pushrods are not out yet. I changed to Traxxas red pushrod spacers since the ERBE came with blue ones. I also like to use the TRA5348 turnbuckle rod ends on all the turnbuckles and the pushrods. They are the biggest and bulkiest rod ends used on the Revos. They are usually used only on the rear turnbuckles but I like to use them everywhere. You can recognize them by the small ring around the base of the ball end. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_22006ee9.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_6910438d.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_798e8209.jpg SHOCKS Variable damping #3 shock pistons will be used on this ERBE, the rebound holes have been enlarged to 2 mm. I like a fast rebound. I will use black rear springs and gold front springs. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_3e538967.jpg |
CARBON FIBER HOP UPS
A few carbon fiber parts will be used also, a rear bulkhead tie bar, a rear wing tie bar and maybe a chassis cover plate for the hole left by the second servo that won't be used. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_b92a28b0.jpg PIVOT BALL CAPS Aluminum pivot ball caps, they are nice with an O ring to keep them from backing out. They have been working great so far. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ball_caps1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ball_caps2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ball_caps4.jpg SWAY BARS I am using the Tekno sway bar in front and the Traxxas sway bar in the rear. I straightened the black Tekno sway bar to make a ‘’U’’ shape out of it and I use the black Traxxas sway bar for the rear. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ars_front4.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ars_front5.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...xxas_rear1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...xxas_rear2.jpg I’M DONE BEATING UP CLOWNS I feel sorry for all the clowns I lured into dark alleys with multi colored marshmallows to take their balloons. I used those clown balloons they use to make balloon puppets to make shock boots out of them for the longest time. I should have used these Jato shock boots from the beginning, they are perfect. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ock_boots1.jpg |
OTHER STUFF I DID
SPEKTRUM DX3R I modified my Spektrum DX3R radio to accept 5 rechargeable AA batteries in order to have 6+ volts. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...3r_5cell_1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...3r_5cell_2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...3r_5cell_3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...3r_5cell_4.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...3r_5cell_5.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_e0720d0a.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_8056cbff.jpg SET UP SHEET I made an ERBE set up sheet using Traxxas' set up sheet for the 3.3. You can download and print the jpg file below on a 8.5 X 14 sheet of paper or PM me your email addy to get the pdf file. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...heet_blank.jpg PARALLEL HARNESS My parallel harness with the jumper plug, I made a finger loop on the jumper plug to make it easy to pull the plug out. It pull on the plug and not the wire. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...l_harness1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...l_harness2.jpg |
4S1P split into 2S1P
I bought those Zippy 5000 mah 30C/40C 4S lipos because I read that they could be squeezed in the battery compartment of the ERBE. They are too big and I couldn’t stuff them in there so I decided to split them and make 4 2S1P packs. I didn’t go with the thin shrink that is commonly used, it is very thin at 0.15 mm. I went to my electronics supply store and bought some heavy duty heat shrink which is more like a hard rubber and is 1 mm thick. Those packs are almost like hard case packs. I scanned and modified the Zippy stickers a bit then printed them on a regular piece of paper and stuck them to the packs using transparent tape to try to make them look factory. I am pleased with the results. The packs weight 280 grams each. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w.../th_2s1p_1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ppy_2s1p_4.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ppy_2s1p_5.jpg |
DUBRO PROP BALANCER TO BALANCE MONSTER TRUCK WHEELS AND TIRES
I used the original base as a template to make the holes in a 150 mm X 80 mm plate of aluminum. The two pairs of holes are spread apart 120 mm. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_93d82f5b.jpg This is the rod that goes through the wheel. It comes with two coned shaped pieces. I added an old Maximizer 17 mm hex, a tube of plastic as a spacer and a collar with a set screw. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._balancer2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...h_54c30c78.jpg And this is a sequence of pics on how I assemble a wheel on the shaft in case you haven't figured it out by the pics above already. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._balancer4.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._balancer5.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._balancer6.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._balancer7.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._balancer8.jpg LIPO BOX I read that a .50 caliber AMO can from the army surplus is just right to store lipos. It’s water proof and would contain any fire that could start inside. I will probably get one in the future but until then, I have been using this little metal tool box. In case of fire inside, flames could escape from four tiny holes at the bottom corners but it’s way better than a cardboard box. I always keep it on the garage cement floor. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._lipo_box2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._lipo_box1.jpg |
Testing this slipper clutch is boring, just running back and forth doing hard starts to make the slipper slip gets old very fast. So I decided to bore you with a video of part of a boring testing session. I don't like to be bored alone. At first, the slipper is too tight, even the CD doesn't prevent the truck from wheelying. After adjusting the slipper twice, I get it to slip a lot to test it's durability. Near the end of the video, you can hear it starts slipping quite a bit. But I didn't tighten it after I stopped filming, I just finished the packs doing my race simulation and surprisingly, despite the fact that the slipper was slipping a lot at the end of the hard starts part, the truck ran very well and the slipping was less noticeable during the rest of the packs. It's probably because it got to be very hot during the abuse of the repeated hard starts and got to cool down during running normally. One thing I found weird is about three quarters into the video, you can hear that slipper slipping and all of a sudden, I pop a wheely and then, it starts slipping again. Things that make you go ''hmmmm'' I was running my new 2S packs I made earlier by the way.
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RACER’S EDGE STEERING SERVO HORN
I am trying out this clamp type servo horn. I like the fact that it clamps on the servo’s splines but I thought it was too short for the kind of steering I like on my ERBE so I made a small piece out of aluminum to extend the horn’s throw. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...edge_horn3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...edge_horn4.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...edge_horn5.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...edge_horn6.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...edge_horn7.jpg |
looks very nice, i recently made a carbon fiber motor mount/brace for my E-revo, hopefully i wont have any temp issues like you did.
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That servo arm is really nice! I have one as well. Nice secure servo mounting.
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This is by far the best selection of revo info I have seen, ever... This needs to be made into a sticky and closed. Great job MC and all the better considering you are Canadian! (sorry, had to make a Canada joke, you hoser, eh?!?!?!)
I will be applying alot of this to the slayer when I set it up again. All great info. |
I could write something long and nice but it's easier to just say DITTO to linc's post, Canadian jokes included! :lol:
Very impressive write up. |
i hate you:lol:
you beat me to exactly what i was gonna do!!!! ive got a 2.5 convert and i am slowly doing ALL of these mods:rofl: but i really like your build...will be a valuable resorce in years to come:intello: |
Very nice write up. Where do you live in Canada?
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Thank you eh! Very nice of you eh! I live in Guelph, Ontario eh! And please don't close the thread eh! Might have some more stuff to ad if I think of something eh! :tongue: :mdr:
Like those companies I have been harassing to make an aluminum chassis for the ERevo. I even sent them a crude drawing of what I think would work great. Basically a slightly modified 3.3 chassis with wings for battery boxes much like the ones Monster Mike sells. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...m_chassis1.jpg |
Canada's pretty nice, eh? I lived on take Temagami (aboot 5 hoours north of Toronto, eh?)
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This weekend was the first big race for the ERBE. The Hardcore Racers RC Club Spring Showdown Trophy Race. As this was a one day event, the number of entries in Truggies, Buggies and MTs were limited to 98. I could only manage to get a third place, my set up is all wrong and the truck was bouncy, squirely and bottoming out in some places. Other than a battery lead coming loose in the third qualifier, nothing broke on the truck, everything (except my set up) worked flawlessly. I am very pleased.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._showdown1.jpg |
Diff blocks
The diffs move in a Revo. They move inside the bulkheads. Just look at the abrasion marks on your diff cases and inside the bulkheads when you take them apart. Some people tried to stuff silicon in there to hold the diffs in place, some put foam underneath the chassis to press down on the diff. I'm sure someone will chime in with yet another Band Aid fix for this little problem. I want a permanent fix. I am going to try out these diff blocks that key into the bulkheads and sandwich the diffs in place holding them tight preventing movement up and down, left and right. I made them for my LST2 diffs but I'm sure they would not work for the stock diffs.
The front blocks http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ff_blocks1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ff_blocks2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ff_blocks3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ff_blocks4.jpg And the rear blocks http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ff_blocks5.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ff_blocks6.jpg |
I think it's better to have holes in a metal case, because if you don't, the fire and pressure will build up, and when you open the case after the fire has started, you better run away, fast, because it will just come bursting out.
Vent holes is best. |
Rear bulkheads
The front bulkheads are secured to the chassis with six screws. 4 M4 button head screws and two M3 that go through the front shock tower and chassis and screw into the front bulkheads. The rear ERBE bulkheads only have 4 screws to secure them to the chassis, two M4 button head screws in the back and two M3 screws that go through the rear shock tower. I wanted to have two more M4 screws to hold the rear bulkheads to the chassis like the front ones.
I drilled those right through with a 3.3 mm drill bit and then made M4X.7 mm threads in the holes. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._bulkhead1.jpg I drilled matching hole in the chassis with a 4 mm drill bit. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._bulkhead2.jpg Now I have two more M4 screws that secure the rear bulkheads to the chassis. Since my rear shocks are a bit higher because of the shims I put underneath the rocker posts and rear shock tower, the shocks do not rub on the screw heads. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._bulkhead3.jpg I will also be trying out a different way of using the M3 screws that go through the rear shock tower and shock caps. I used longer screws that stick out the bottom and I put a lock nut to tighten everything up really tight and secure. A couple hole in the center skid plate to be able to take the screws out if I have to without removing the center skid plate. If you are worried that dirt might get in there because of the two holes, I say, dirt gets in there anyway even with no holes. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._bulkhead4.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._bulkhead5.jpg |
MC, it's nice to see the original design of the CD , working under real life track conditions, with a few tweaks by yourself..included... Hopefully this weekend I'll be testing my original diff at a track, and see how it actually performs for me as well. Your truck looks great, I think I may give the aluminum slipper disc a try, if i ever get a chance to make one....maybe this weekend I'll get a chance....nice work man...
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Belleville springs
Wow! My build is a sticky. I'm honored. :mdr:
sjcrss, I'm sure you will love how your CD performs. I know I couldn't go back to the Traxxas CD after racing with my 8th scale CD. Speaking of the slipper, I bought belleville springs on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/3-16-x-3-8-Belle...3%3A1|294%3A30 And I will try out 6 of them like this ((())) tomorrow. |
Congrats on the sticky! ;)
I've been following this topic since it was started back on the Traxxas forum, good to see you here... Say, I'm wondering why you chose to use the Summit axles vs. the CVD axles. Or any other type for that matter. Did you want the axles to be the weak link because they are cheaper? And why didn't you choose the RPM true track arms, alot of people that race claim they are the best. Thanks |
I chose to try the Summit shafts, I got a few complete sets on ebay for a good price, really good compared to CVDs. Up to now, they have been really good. They are just starting to show signs of wear after three months of daily bashing and racing. The weak point I would say is the slipper, I did so much testing on the slipper because I thought that if this ERBE has a very strong and effective slipper that can take all the hard hits to the drive train, there won't be any breakage. Up to now, it's been working.
I never thought of trying the RPM true tracks, I just don't like the idea of a set toe in that can't be changed, and unlike you, I have read mixed reviews of the true tracks. Mostly about the pillow ball popping out, which doesn't surprise me from my past experience with RPM carriers. |
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oh yea, very nice buld, MC, very nice...:mdr:
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Touche.
Well, I would still rather have one with holes. Over time, even with Oxygen, it'll die out. |
Thanks Urgeoner,
What an awful day of racing I had today. When I bought plugs for my lipos and ESC, I wanted to try the EC3 type plugs. Well after some use, they start to be a little loose and they disconnect by themselves. I was DNF on all of my quals. The third qual was not because of a connector coming loose but by an ESC wire de soldered at the plug. I just packed my stuff and came home. I was very disappointed. I just ordered a whole bunch on genuine Deans Ultra Plugs (genuine meaning not the Hobby City knock offs) and I will have some work cut out for me as I am going to get rid of all these EC3 plugs I have and replace them with the Deans. On a positive note, the Belleville springs for the slipper worked awsome. |
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