Custom ESCs?
 

I'm looking for an ESC for my micro Desert Truck and have been eyeing the 1/18th scale Sidewinder but it's a bit big and the wires are longer and thicker than they need to be. Would it be possible to get essentially the same ESC but more compact with smaller and shorter wires? It only needs to be able to handle 5-6 amps continuous and about 10 amps peak.

Maybe you can find an older style Mamba ESC, maybe contact Castle or Mike direct and see if they have any of the old ones still laying around?

Or maybe a Quark 22/33A would work?

Another option: This will void the warranty, but how about removing the sidewinder guts from the case, removing the heatsink (or using a much smaller one - even just a slab as a heat spreader), and resoldering the size wires you need? You could then wrap the whole thing in heatshrink and cut out a little window for the heatsink area. Even with the HS removed, heat shouldn't be an issue due to the really low currents involved.

IIRC the older M25 is the same size as the new Sidewinder.

I'd rather avoid a Quark, I'd have to ship it overseas for repairs and from what I've heard from Quark owners it'll be needing work more often than I'd like.

I've thought about re-wiring the entire thing and I will likely do so if I can't get a custom one made or if it costs too much.

+1 for the Quark 22A!

Size: 33.5 x 25 x 6 mm

This should fit, right?

Sounds smaller than the SideWinder but I'm not totally convinced that a Quark is a good idea based on input from people who have had them.

EDIT: The Tekin B1-R would work fine, it's a little long and costs more than the SW but it'll work.

i have a Quark 33 in my RC18 and it has been bulletproof. there are however a b.... to program however. My mamba 25 kept overheating yet the Quark runs cool.

I've had three Quarks (125b), all very smooth and capable controllers; and never had a problem. I only have 2 now that I sold a vehicle and a Quark went with it. If you can compensate for the higher temperature these tend to produce and don't mind the obscure/limited programming, it is one of the smoothest, if not the smoothest, ESCs around. And IIRC, even the smaller versions can handle up to 5s fine (with an external BEC of course).

I've got an 80B, and it runs so lovely! And I've also bought a 125B today. (Pritty sure)

Don't want the Losi micro controller?

dont castle have a line of aircraft ones for little tiny winy amp draws?
but reverse would be bad.

Nope. They came out only a few months ago and there are people on their 3rd ESC already and getting Horizon to replace them is a bit of a pain.

If they'll bind to my DX 2.0 they'll work but I find myself needing reverse with the Micro all the time.

Here's one you might not have seen, saw it the other day.
http://www.teamorion.com/Products/Vo...Vortex+136+ESC

What do those cost? Right now it's looking like the Tekin Mini Rage is the ESC to use.

I use the mamba 25 in mine... I would suggest the CC because without the ability to adjust punch and start power they can be quite undrivable with all the extra amps ;) Once adjusted correcty they can be pretty damn impressive. This micro was running 30+mph with losi 10250kv motor, 230mah 15c 2s lipo, and the mamba 25.... Not to mention the close to 25 minute runtimes :) Here is a few pics of it rewired more aproppriatly and a added RC18 heatsink... Fits like a charm and not suprisingly performs like a monster in such a light veh. sorry for the low quality pics

Just my 2 cents but hope it helps!

Heath

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...arbon-t/h3.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...arbon-t/h4.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...arbon-t/h5.jpg

Thanks for the input. I'm thinking of running either a Feigao or another motor which is said to be 31% more efficient than the equivalent Losi motor (I've got the link on another computer). Are you running an extended chassis? The Desert Truck is longer than the Micro T, hard to tell with those big tires.

31% ?!!! Wow, that's a huge difference. Even 5% is pretty large. Since most decent motors are around the 85% range, 31% less would put it much closer to that of a nitro motor. :smile:

Seriously, if a motor is pulling ~250w average with 1500w bursts (typical average), then that low of an efficiency would result in really high motor temps. I'd like to see how they got those numbers...

I believe they meant a 31% improvement over the Losi motors, not 31% better efficiency.

Hmm. Still, that's a pretty large amount IMO.

Yes it is. I haven't been impressed by any Horizon electronics, and it seems their motors follow the same degree of quality. I found a link:
http://thetoyz.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17824

No problemo my friend :smile:

I have used the Feigao motors.... They are excellent little motors however for a speed demon without getting into the custom gearing or extra cells (I prefer light and fast) they do not offer the high KV options. I think 7888 is the highest but its been a while. With the feigo/Lipo you can expect well over a half hour runtime :mdr: I would suggest you go with the long can as it will run nice and warm while the stubby can run a little hot depending on your gearing/driving/weight etc.

The one above no longer exists in that form. There I was running a 3racing CF DT chassis... The wheels by the way are xray M18 foamies (32mm hieght) custom adapted for the micro t. They are one killer lightweight setup for on-road. I included a few pics in case you might want to try it... Takes some practice to get them balanced but well worth it!

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...Picture107.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...Picture109.jpg

Here is a few pics of how she last sat (Now in pieces for another custom job) Here she was set up as a mid motor/10mm extended wheelbase.... How do you like that center of gravity :mdr:

Hope that helps

Heath

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k.../Picture32.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k.../Picture33.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k.../Picture31.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k.../Picture30.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k.../Picture29.jpg

That looks great, much more work in that than I really plan to do to my Micro :lol: My DT is totally stock but I put the mid-sized pinion on it and a Losi 2s lipo and it's reasonably quick now but I'm after the power and runtimes of brushless. How well do the long can Feigaos fit? I was thinking of getting a S can and running either 1s or 2s lipo.

Thanks :yes:

Keep in mind depending on the motor Kv it will likely end up slower on 1s... However the fiegao/mamba combo with the exact same set up otherwise will likely doublt-triple your run time and be signifigantly faster to...

The long can is tight... Depending on the wheels could be to close for comfort. From the sound of your goals though you may be happy with the stubby... For my use it was very taxed, Not as bad as the excelorin but they are also much higher KV and pretty lousy to be honest in the quality department... The Fiegao is a kick ass little motor either way I would doubt you would be disapionted :wink: Just do some math to make sure you purchase the righ KV for your goals...

Heath

OK, Thanks. Does the Feigao have the same splines on the shaft as the Losi motor or do I need to do something else as far as the pinion?

Hmmm, well the Sidewinder Micro is 35mm x 23mm x 6mm. So how is the Quark smaller?

Been quite some time however I seem to remember using a jewelery engraver to make splines ;)

Heath

That's interesting, but I don't have one. Could I drill out the pinion to the size of the shaft on the motor and glue it on?

Could you?.... Sure but I dont think it would be a good idea in the long run considering future broken gears/adjustments/tuning etc...Assuming you tap the hole to the right size you could esily add diagnal(45degree)splines with a small micro file :yes:

By the way the quark while a good ESC IMO the mamba is the only choice here due to the tunability :mdr:

Heath

Joe Ford says he glues all his pinions on with red loctite (a theory I'll be testing later with another RC). I could try to file the shaft, sounds like a lot of work though.

Right now it's either the mini Sidewinder or the Tekin Mini Rage. I'd like to see Castle modify the Sidewinder to fit the Micros better (basically just dump some FETs, use a smaller capacitor, and smaller wire).

Hell, ever since I put red loctite on that damn grub screw on my Flux pinion, that little bastard hasn't given a hint of coming loose. And when are gonna get your loosing streak Cat ass up here for some bashing? :rofl:

If that is what Joe reccomends I am inclined to listen :wink:

Heath

Red loctite on the grub screw is a PITA, I did that once and had to grind the gear off my motor's shaft because it would not come off no matter what I did to it.

I tried cleaning the top shaft and gear on my Rustler and loctiting it on and it held for about 1 pull of the throttle. It'll probably work better on a pinion because it's still a cleaner surface but on tranny gears it fails.

It's really not bad -- if you know the trick to remove the pinion. We use a small torch to heat the pinion, and the loctite just melts. Then the pinion is easy to pull off. A heat gun also works, but takes a little longer (sometimes we use a hot air soldering station with a 12mm tip -- that seems to work very well.) You have to be careful to keep tension on the pinion so that it slides off when the loctite melts -- if you char the loctite it will be harder to remove.

What I was trying was a hot soldering iron pressed directly onto the grub screw while trying to pry it off with a pair of pliers and could not get it to move at all. I must not have gotten it hot enough fast enough though. I don't like to keep the soldering iron on for too long, maybe a minute, because that heat will go right down the shaft and start to heat the magnets up and I don't want to ruin a motor over a pinion. I have a Butane casette lighter that I could try next time I use red loctite on a pinion.

Yeah, I wouldn't think that a soldering iron could get it hot enough quickly. Most irons are fairly low wattage (below 60 watts) so they can't heat up a large volume of steel very quickly. (we have to use special 270 watt irons to solder to boards like the MMM -- just because of the amount of copper in the board...)

I was trying it with a 140 watt soldering gun, it got hot but not hot enough before I took it off. Would 140 watts be enough to replace the wires on the mini Sidewinder?

Yes, that will work fine. The MMM has about double the copper and double the surface area as the Sidewinder Micro. Do be careful though, there are some parts close to the wires. If you aren't comfortable doing it yourself, you can send it in for wire replacement -- I think the fee is $10.00 (but I'm not positive -- you can call and ask for Jenny -- She'll know the exact amount.)

I've soldered the wires on the MMM with just a 60w Hakko iron. The trick is to use a clean and properly tinned large chisel tip as it has more "thermal storage". I then let it heat up for 5 minutes so it gets as hot as it's going to. Then, I add a little flux. After all that, it takes about 3-5 seconds to solder the wires. If it takes longer than that, I may warm up the whole ESC with a heat gun (on low) to around 100*F. This reduces the speed at which the soldering iron heat is whisked away.

Thanks for the tips.

I have the Losi micro system on my MDT and it has been awesome ! Hasnt missed a beat in 2 years .

IF Castle made a micro ESC I would get it for sure , heck I tried a Sidewinder for a little while and it was better than the Losi ESC , but it was just too big .

We actually created 1/18 scale controllers before we ever did 1/10 scale.........
http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...micro_pro.html or http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...der_micro.html