Superlight emaxx
 

Hey there,

I just had an idea to make a super light emaxx. This is just a discussion im not saying that i will do this :)

But what is had in mind was:

Gorilla carbon fiber chassis( 2 ounces lighter)
Gorilla race skids( 1.1 ounces lighter)
Get rid of body mounts, strap body to shock towers(saw this on another forum)( 1-2 ounces..)
Panther komodo lp's( some more ounces)
4 shocks( some more lol)
edit:
Titanium pillow balls
e-clip suspension hinge pins

Is there anything else you can think of to make it lighter?

Cheers!

Using lighter pillow balls, suspension pins, some small things, but remember, if you have a super light emaxx, your going to have traction problems.

I wasnt planning to put brushless on really. I already have supermaxx for that. But by traction problems you mean its so light its not gonna hook up right. So maybe this isnt a good idea?

you should only worry about that if its like 5lbs. a gorillmaxx single speed, and gorillamaxx suspension would also make it a bit lighter.

Gorilla maxx suspension would actually make it lighter? hmm I thought the opposite with all that metal.


Edit :

** Ultra-light weight race suspension is only 4 grams heavier than the stock plastic parts

So it wouldnt help :)

Gorilla Suspension is only lighter if you use 4 shocks. ;)

On your list you put them both seperate.

I am not planning on using the gorilla suspension as i would use 4 shocks anyway.

Lipo will also take off significant weight, and there is plenty of weight to be lost depending on wheel/tire combinations. I considered building an all out light-weight bashing maxx, but the price was way too high. Titanium stuff is always nice, yet there is only so far you can go.

The komodos are the lightest tires around for sure

What about motor? If you run the stock motors that are heavier than a lehner basic xl. You can put some titanium cvds in it. I think the ue are supposed to be lighter than stock. I could be wrong.

the reason that it is lighter if you use 4 shocks is because of the shock lever thingys. without those it is lighter + the fact that there would only be 4 shocks. so basically its 4 grams heavier with 8 shocks and levers so its lighter than stock with 4 shocks and levers. so actually it would make it lighter if you use 4 shocks over stock with 4 shocks. sure hope this makes since :p

Yep, but i dont think i would dish out that much dosh tho lol.
Do titanium cvd's work with stock diffs?
Anyway tomorrow ill get all the prices down so we know about how much it is to make a super light emaxx.

Nice swift.. My idea.. :D

I layed hands on a e-maxx frame too, in order to load it with a centerdiff or a singlespeed, a set of komódo's and a 9L on 4S lipo.

Bare stock, no need for aluminium with this 2 ounce truck.. ;)

Gorilla carbon fiber chassis $185
Gorilla race skids $36
Gorilla Single speed $59
Get rid of body mounts, strap body to shock towers free
Panther komodo lp's $23
4 shocks free Any1 has 4 decent shocks :)
Titanium pillow balls $55
e-clip suspension hinge pins $16

Other parts needed: Transmission, trans. shafts, complete plastic suspension with diffs+shafts(no bumpers), steering servo, receiver, motor+batteries, wheels.

Cost for Superlight maxx conversion: 374$

Weight saved: about 1-1.5 lbs-could be more*

*Kinda rough estimate, i have no idea about weights of shocks or tires compared to stock.

If you arent gonna be running too much power through the tranny, you can always get the light aluminum tranny internals....

Yeah, i got the light weight in and output shaft.

Shaves off a few gramms.

If you get titanium pillowballs, may i suggest the UE ones? they have got a HEX on both sides, so if one brakes, you get remove them from the arm.

If I were to go ahead with this, what motor setup would you use to make it have very good performance at a decent cost(already got 1 system). Since it will be so light, i was thinkin 7xl with 9920 controller on 12 and 16 cells.

Would it be safe to run this on the stock diffs? I really dont want to change my diffs, so maybe i should go for an HV maxx or something.

With the really light weight(2lbs lighter than stock about) I should be looking at good performance...

The Lightest motor would be a Basic XL I think, and if you have a really light truck, one on 12 cells would be nice. The 7XL would be overkill for a light truck, just excess weight, unless you really plan on running 16 cells. You sure won't be able to run stock diffs on 16 cells, but with titanium bulkheads or something, you could strengthen the stock differentials.

I think the basic xl motors put out more than the hv does. I think that would be a good motor for your setup.

I think the stock diffs would hold remix. I had a heavier maxx with stock diffs that held up well but not forever. 14.5 lbs of maxx 7xl and 18cells. had the aluminum diff cups though.

ya think? the little xl3100 i had in my lightmaxx (7 1/4lbs. rtr) on 12 cells ran around 50 and only thing that let loose was the sliders....

What about the XL5000? Would that be my best bet? Squee you say you could do 50mph with a XL3100?

The XL5000 is a VERY hot motor, and IMO has no purpose. It would suck amps like crazy, giving low run time and short battery life. The XL2800-3100 would be awesome for a lightweight truck.

LoL, I would never have guessed that on my own. So XL3100 and 9920 with 12 cells would be optimum.

yes, although a xl2800 on 14 cells would probably give similar performance with better runtime. i only got about 10-12 minutes with some old 2400s. but if you ONLY run 12 or 16 like you said the xl3100 or xl2400 are your best bets. the xl3100 is safe on 12 but to hot on 14. the xl2800 is good for up to 14 but to hot on 16. the xl3100 is a BEAST on 12 cells!!

I think he would be better running something like 18cells on a 8xl or 16 on a 7xl. Getting very good power/speed but the runtime too, which the Lehners don't really offer. Worth the extra weight of the cells/motor in my honost opinion.

I already have a 1930 with 16 or more cells, so im trying to find something on which i can fit 12 cells(because they will be unused). The xl 3100 sounds good to me.

How about an 8S?

I've got this motor, i am going to try in my light weight maxx on 12 cells.

$w!ft, watch the temps carefully. as for gearing, start about 13/66 and you will probably end up with about 14/66 depending on how light it is.

serum, with the temps i got from my xl3100, i think the 8s might be a tad small and might get to hot....

It has got a bit lower KV, i am going to try it, got a speedgun now, so i can actually find out what it's capable of.. :D

serum, have seen how fast the savy is?

my savage?

I measured it with GPS, which is NO GOOD!! because a GPS takes too long to achieve the speed it's going, especially on a fast accelerating thingy.. it only did 65 km/h according to the GPS, but it was on a 100 meter run, so i know for sure, that it was faster.. Haven't speedgunned it though.. Speedguns are fair cheap!! i got mine from the US as well..

I think the 1930 is the absolute best motor for a light weight maxx. I also think I could get mine below 7 pounds if I utilized some plastic parts(just over 7 pounds RTR with all aluminum and cvds). I use komodos on my light weight truck, and I think stock diffs, drive shafts, etc. could easily hold up with an appropriate power(battery) choice. A 6 pound truck in theory only needs half the power of a 12 pound truck to get the same performance, so it wouldn't need a lot of cell or a large motor, either. I think if I went to 3s Lipo, my truck would alredy be below 7 pounds RTR and would have plenty of power to compete(wouldn't try 50mph on 3s, but it would get out of its own way quite handily just the same). My truck currently has a basicxl motor, by the way. The xl2800 is my favorite, the the xl3600 on 3s Lipo could be the cat's meow for this light truck(aside from a similar 1930 motor).

i wouldnt worry about overheating. London is cold. Period. And did you mean the XL3100 Mike? I have not seen any XL3600.

EDIT: Nvm just found the 3600 on the site. So XL 3600 on 12 cells you say?

Ok prices would be:
374$-parts to make it lighter
150$-motor
205$-9920
=729$

Thats it right.

Lehner makes a 3600 basic and basic XL motor, many places just don't carry it to my knowledge

I carry the basic xl3600. This is what I meant on 3s Lipo.
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...cxl3600&cat=20
The picture is an xl2400, but they all look the same so the same picture is used in all the xl basic listings.

the 1930 is the way to go in my opinion

Agreed. The 1930 rules in a lightweight e-maxx.

ya i bet its light but sometimes using hop up parts can make it heavy but sometimes some parts can stay plastic of rpm nylon and you probably make it even lighter!

no rpm parts please

http://forum.maxxtraxxusa.com/showthread.php?t=16410
Is that the "other forum"?

Im building my truck with basically the same idea. Im looking to make it as light as possible while being strong enough to not break all the time, with out spending a dime more than I need to.
Unless you want them for the strength/ stiffness, the race skids are a waste of money. I just cut my stock skids down to basically the same shape as the Gmaxx race skids (I did this before I had heard of these skids, I didnt knowingly copy their design).
I dont have the cash for a Gmaxx chassis either. Ive mounted my batteries on the bottom of the chassis to lower the cg, but now Im using 4s1p Lipo, so battery weight is (literally) half what it used to be with 12 cells.
Im using KLPs for now, but I dont race, and the tread pattern is too track oriented for me. I want something more off road capable, so I ordered some 1/8 buggy hub adapters, wheels, and tires with knobbier tread. But small tires are probably the best thing you can do to strengthen the Maxx driveline. Since I put the KLPs in I havent anything in the driveline. This is probably just a coincidence, because I already had CVDs, steel idlers, and a robinson slipper, but its nice to think about nonetheless.
Since those pics were taken, Ive added fastlane aluminum combo bulkheads and a real body, so its not quite as light as it looks there. The body now is a Proline Ford Courier and its attached with velcro across teh tops of the shock towers (still no mounts).
If you have any questions about my truck, or if you think I can help you with this in anyway let me know. I dont look at the Gmaxx forum much so send me a pm.