Mamba Monster 2200k combo Punch Control and other settings
 

Final getting things together with my 8ight-T 1.0, and was wondering were i should set punch control? im running 45t spur with 18pin and 4s lipo 5000mAh. I dont want to break anything and do not care about flipping the truggy on its lid. Also i have 4 and 5 cell lipos what is a good setting for low voltage cut off?

autolipo 3.2v
punch 25%

the new castle link software download let's you custom your lipo cut-off voltage...however, the auto-lipo feature dosen't always work so well....what i do is take the lowest cell voltage i'm comfortable with and multiply it by the # of cells i'm running...ie: 6S at 3.3V per cell is a cut off of 19.8V....the point is you never want your individual cells to drop below 3.0V per cell.

as far as punch control...i love wheelies, huge acceleration etc...i use 0%. if i'm track racing, i can usually run between 40-70%. if i'm bashing in grass/trails, i use 0% as well.

I set my cut off to 3.25 v per cell. I don't like the punch control on my racing buggy (use my finger), but I do use some punch control on most of my other rigs. The Punch setting is something you will have to set to your own preference.

I set my lvc @ 3.3 just for piece of mind.

Auto-lipo 3.0 is fine, 3.2 if you have junky lipo's but normal packs can handle 3.0 w/o issues as 2.7v is actually when a lipo can be damaged.. 3.3v is overkill and just cuts drastically into your run time as you can't burn through all your packs mAH before hitting a LVC.

Punch is a tricky one.. if you put on too much punch you loose throttle control while you are in the air, if you do too little it can make it hard to get traction really fast.. I typically set mine at 10% to 20% never more, even at 30% I find you loose just a little too much control while in the air (gas'in up to level out).

I do always set my timings to low (5), Zero drag brake (causes more heat than good), and to be honest I use the mechanical brakes so I disable the brakes and reverse completely.

Runs great, and the only thing that keeps me from winning at the track would be my skills :) LOL Getting better but still not up to the top 2 or 3 drivers yet... closer all the time though.

last time i looked my MMM manual said that the lipo auto cutoff feature only worked for 2s and 3s. is that still the case or am i confusing this with some other controller? just to be safe i always set mine custom at 3.0v. per cell or 15.0v for my 5s packs. when my ride starts dying down and cutting out i throw the pack on the charger and it usually is at like 16.5v so it doesnt ever even get close to the 15.0v. because the shorts bursts when you gas it drop the pack down to the cutoff point you should never be able to get your pack actually down to the cutoff point for more than a split second....i think.

Yeah the auto lipo is for 2-3 cell. i just set my according to the battery i use. When it starts feeling like its losing power i charge it.

The mmm beeps the number of cells that it detects when you turn it on and works for 2-6s packs. IF you know how to count, there's no reason to use a single cutoff instead of auto-lipo for multiple packs.

This LVC point is about a hot of a topic as abortion. People will swear to hell and back to never go lower then 3.3v cutoff point. Other peeps feel fine at 3.0v. Other state it all depends on the battery quality that warrants wether going higher on the LVC is good or a waste.

I just ran on my Flux at a timed 28 minutes at 3.2v today. I was surprised how much less run time I got vs my 3.0v cutoff. I think I may go back. Im gonna check my charge mAh to see exactly how much it actually discharged the batteries at that level. I run SMC's, so I think i'm gonna push them a bit harder then what many folks would deem safe, but in the end, its my truck, I do with it as I please. :yes:

As far as punch, i'm still playing with that even after a month of having the Flux. I finally got the brakes where I want them, proportional with reverse cutoff at 20% brake with 10% drag brake. Punch control at 30% seem to be a nice level for my bashing needs

I run 3.0V cutoff

Everything else is set wide open. lol

If you are getting noticeably more runtime at 3.0 volts vs. 3.2 volts, your packs are not good enough. Good lipo packs with properly matched cells will stay strong, suddenly hit the cutoff and be done. At least for my packs, the voltage curve is so steep that there is really no difference in time between 3.0 volts vs. 3.2 volts per cell, so there is no reason to run 3.0 volts when you can run 3.2 volts.

Auto-Lipo
Start @ 50% PC and go from there for personal taste.

I've never seen a pack that does a full on dump and holds a flat curve going from 14.8v to 12v or (18.5/15 - 22.2/18) and I've seen a lot of eagle tree data. Typical packs even good ones at about 85%-95% of capacity start to drop and the .8 to 1.2v difference means anywhere from 300-900mah (1-3mins) depending on how good the pack is. It maybe only 1min range for a TP, FP, Elite, Neu type pack and closer to the other end w/ some lower quality packs, but it does make a difference.

Lets see your eagle tree or at least some detail about these packs that hold a 14v line until the second they dump... I'm very interested in getting some LOL

I see some of you say to set the LVC to 3v to get more run time. What you may not realize, a lipo pack will live much longer if never discharged below 80% of capacity, and by running down to the very lowest LVC setting, you are just killing your packs faster. Is it worth the couple minutes run time if your pack only lives half as long?

My main packs are a pair of Maxamps 8000s. That added to my paranoia about damaging $400+ in lipos and the fact I'm running 2 separate packs together in series has mine up at 3.4v/cell. I get less run time but there's the peace-of-mind knowing that they will last a little longer before having to spend more money on lipos. I think 3.0-3.2v/cell is safe enough, I'm just obsessive-compulsive about some things.

and what do you think 80% of the capacity is? 80% of the capacity is actually 2.7v per cell and that is what manufactures rate their packs at, so from 4.2 down to 2.7 there is XXXXmAH.. now if you do 80% of the 80% your no longer 80% :P Also consider 3.0v under load doesn't mean your cells are going to sit at 3.0v when you pull it off they will rest higher always. I'd love to see your proof on this extra cycles theory as I know you have none. Thats OK though, just keep taking other people's word and notes on the msg boards as gospel. Ive been using lipo's for about 6 years now and I can tell you first hand after tons of use and testing that you don't get more cycles by cutting at 3.2 vs 3.0. All packs start to die the second you use them, no doubt, but sorry that 3.2 vs 3.0 has never been proven and it won't be because it's just a myth.

I agree. Once the cells consistently get much below 3.2v/cell (not just during high power bursts), runtime is measured in seconds. Most lipos have a fairly flat discharge curve up until that point. And it also depends on how exact the LVC is too.