1/16 E-Revo w/ Mamba Max and Neu 1112 Finished!
 

I finally finished it tonight.

It's not 100% done, but it's just about there (it's driveable now, at least).

I still need to receive and add in the aluminum toe links and pushrods. Aluminum hexes arrive tomorrow and will be added in.

Tonight I rebuilt the shocks using the Traxxas TiNi shafts and Aluminum bodies with 50w oil with tan springs front and black springs rear (tan is 1 step stiffer than stock green, black is 1 step stiffer than tan).

Also threw in a Spektrum SR3500 micro receiver.

Previous nights work involved ripping out all the stock electronics and selling them (the only stock thing left is the servo, and by its performance it wont be in there too long).

I also had to cut down the shaft on the 1112 (was too long and hitting motor plate), grind a flat spot, and trim the rear shock tower for clearance.

Had to get rid of the sealed receiver box (put Mamba Max ESC in it's place). Put Castle BEC on the unused steering servo mount cover plate.

Also glued up a set of HoleShot LP 1/10 Buggy tires on OFNA CRT .5 wheels. However, the CRT.5's have much longer axles and deeper hexes which caused problems so I had to dremel some material away from the back of the rim and replace the stock locknuts with regular old nuts which will need to be loctited on. The tires are slightly (about .1 or .2 inches) larger than the stock talons, but are only about 2/3 as wide. It gave it a much racier stance.

Right now it has the 23T 'speed pinion' which was included with the truck and first (and only) 3 minute test run was done on 3S2P Crapamps 1100mah packs from my friend's airsoft gun. It is plenty fast but has too much torque (wheelies all over the place with anything more than 1/2 throttle even at ~20mph). Should have probably used an 1110 (might get on and swap it out down the line), but I got the 1112 at the right price. I'll probably end up gearing up and just running 2S. The packs I have on order are Zippy 2S 2200mah (so it'll run forever on 2P, being 4400mah total). If wheelies are still a problem I'll likely put some sort of weight up front.

I know there are no pictures, but I have no idea what my parents did with the camera. But I'll try to get some by the end of tomorrow.

But first impressions is that this will be a very fun truck.

Cool! Can't wait to see pics/video! This thing will be beastly...

Definately sounds great..look forward to a vid and pics

Aannnntiiiiicipaaaaaationnnnnn........ (you know that song?) :lol:

sounds cool

BP-Revo:

Try using 45 weight oil in all the shocks and no pre-load. It worked for me. I also used 30,000 wt oil in the front diff to sort out torque steer.

I read in the manual the diffs have 30K already ?

Ok, here is a picture. Still couldn't find the camera so took it on my Girlfriend's phone (it has a decent camera).

I've ran it for about 3 minutes more today until I popped out a U-Joint. I'm completely undergeared right now, but still ended up ripping a tire from the bead. Will need to re-glue it.

killajb - I already have 50wt in the shocks with stiffer springs.

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/3...c02946q.th.jpg

It looks to be a bit cramped in there.

I'm wondering just how tough the stock diffs/drivetrain really are?

Seems to be several parts breaking with any amount of hop-ups.

How beefy is it?

It's just like the 1/10 scale Revo, it seems. From what I read on the Traxxas forum, most people pop the U joints on the axles (I did this once landing full throttle - so no surprise - I just popped it back in). People are also breaking the stock plastic red rods, but I have aluminum ones on the way so I'm not worried. Stock shocks suck, but I already took care of those.

The only thing I am worried about is the diff, and only a few people have grenaded those (mostly the Traxxas forum guys doing stupid stuff).

I just plan to take it to the track. I only really put this stuff in there because I heard the stock system heats up like hell so I wanted something I could run all day long without worrying at all. The ESC hit like 90* and the motor was litereally still cold to the touch for the short periods I ran it.

Pics looks like the diff pinion gear is plastic... I hope it isn't... is it? Have you read reports of diffs stripping much?

I think it would be that coating traxxas puts on their gears... I don't think they would make that nice looking metal crown gear/diff case part and cheap out on the pinion with plastic.

It isn't plastic. There is no way.

No halfway decent engineer would make a pinion plastic when the ring is metal. I'm confident it is just anodized black.

It isn't plastic but still isn't that strong, Ive stripped both front and rear once and just recently stripped the rear again, Im assuming that the Case maybe flexing and causing this though.

until they release hardened steel gears I'll put off my purchase.

Hey BP-Revo, what temps are you getting? I just ran mine today, I cant find my temp gun but it was still pretty warm running the 1112 and the quark 65a on 3s.

what 1112 are you running?

I'm using the 1112 2D. It's got 3250KV.

Motor temps are dead cool (stays room temp) ESC temp will need to be watch. It felt warm within the first 3 minutes, which means it is getting warm at all (unlike the motor).

I am under-geared though and do need to gear up, we will see temps after gearing is corrected.

Thats weird... ESC shouldnt be warm at all. I have the 1112 1y 3900kv running on 3s with a 28t pinion. It was 108f up here when I 1st ran it last week but now that the temps are back to low 90s I've been getting about 120f on both motor and ESC after about 20 minutes of running.

That's what I was thinking. And even more so I have a external BEC.

However, I am thinking that it is possible that the motor is seeing super high RPM too easily and that is heating up the ESC. I am going to put in the 28T pinion and see what happens.

Have you tried it out on some jumps or the track yet? I know the magnets on my Neu are so strong that I have to give it a good push just to make the tires turn. I'm wondering how this will affect controlling jumps. I know if I hold it in my hand and throttle the wheels will come to a complete stop in about a second after releasing throttle.