MMM V2 to V3 replacement plan still available?
 

Does Castle still exchange a V2 MMM for a V3? I was searching around the forums and found that thread about V3's finally shipping and someone said (Joe or Patrick) that they will still replace the V2 for a V3. Is this still the case?

I'm getting an erevo and it has a V2 in it. I'd just want to be safe since I'm not from the US.

Why did V2 even fail? Too small case and the fan connector crushed?

For Life if any v1/2 goes it is replaced with a v3...

If you've modded your v2 in any way you'll get a nice reminder note saying "do that again with your v3 and we won't cover it" :)

Another Castle difference. :D I'll just wait till it dies now. And maybe get a refurb between the wait.

V2 had BEC issues, different to the V1 but still enough to demand another redesign.

My V2 is still running strong! :yes:

This whole lifetime replacement warranty makes me feel really good about things.

I'll run her till she poops, then get a Brand New V3. :yipi:

I still have a V1 that I keep thinking about sending in, but... the dang thing just keeps going. The case is modded likecrazy though. I got the warning lettter a couple times with the V2's I had that died Hope they dont hassle me when I send this V1 in finally. I modded it LONG before they ever said you cant. And look... Its the only surviving V1 that I know of.

My V2 is still running strong. I've opened the case six times to resolve fan issues (including solderin the fan wires to the board after the connector broke off) and had the on/off switch broken off twice. Now that I have completely removed the fan and on-off switch, and have always used the latest software, I have pretty much eliminated all the common problems that would cause the esc to fail.

Nah Jhautz, there is an elite group of of with V1s that still function perfectly- maybe we should start our own club? :lol:

My V2 hasn't been used in about 5 months because I've been paying attention to my Baja Bug. I saw the refurb units on the CC site, and I'm at a loss as to how the power switch leads can lead to a failure of the unit other than by being torn off/failed switch contacts. The only mod I've done is installed the V3 case.

i still have a v1 running strong. all i did was put washers on the fan.
i had to replace the fan 3 times tho. im not trading this sucker in till i dies.

Still got a V1 here, too. V3 case, but otherwise, still going strong.

Anyone have a case they could send me? CC charges 26$ shipping if I buy just the case or a new combo system.:neutral:

It would probably cost less if someone would sell it to me.:intello:

You should've taken advantage of their free V3 case give away at the beginning of this year. I got mine for free.

Like I knew what a mamba monster was back then.:lol:

Did you buy yours second hand or brand new?

Comes with the revo I bought. I don't know the status since I haven't received it yet, just from pictures. I hope the package will await me when I get home next week.

I have 3 MMM's 2-V3 1-V2. Is they a way to tell which one is the V2? I can't remeber which one it is.

Keeping them all side by side on a flat surface, your V3s should be taller by a few mm.

and a V2 has bullets on the input side too.
although some or the really early V3's had this too.

Bumping this up with a question.

Does it still get replaced if it dies in snow?:whistle::intello:

If it dies for any reason..

I'm pretty sure I have a V2 as that had the main power leads soldered onto the board. If so, its still going strong though I really want a V6. Is there a tradeup offer? :lol:

V2s had the bullet connectors on the PCB and even some early V3s did as well. As for the V6, how do you plan on fitting one in your Savage? :lol: Joking aside, I don't think they have even released the V5 yet...

That's weird, I coulda swore it was V2's with the direct soldered connections, so it was V3's instead?

Yep, V3s got direct-soldered wires although early units did have bullet plugs on them. My first MMM was a V3 and it had bullet plugs, my 2nd had wires on it. When my MMM gets back from Castle it will be a V4 and have direct-soldered wires as well.

Just a quick Monster wiring lineage for all of those new to the brushless world.

V1 : Battery - wires, motor - wires
V2 : Battery - bullets, motor - bullets
V3 (first 1000) : Battery - bullets, motor - bullets
V3 (current) : Battery - wires, motor - bullets

Hope this helps!

Thomas Porfert
Castle Tech Support

Correct. Any V1/V2 will be replaced by a current version for any reason at no charge indefinitely.

As long as we are in business, and make the MMM.

Can you tell apart V2 and V2 refurbs? Mine has no switch wires coming out and the power bullets have no solder on them.

Yes, we can tell the difference. Refurbs have a couple of circuit modifications, a specific serial number burned into the chips, a specific work order number on the ID tag, etc.

Can I do that myself? I wouldn't want to ship it to you and then find out it's a refurb since I'm not from US and shipping might hurt a little.

Can someone tell me the exact height of the V3 case? (refurbs probably have V3 cases?)

I don't know the height difference, but there is a way you can identify a V3 case. Look at the top of the controller, where the part of the case sticks out to cover the capacitors, between the power wires. If the cover over the caps is lower the the fan cover, then it is a V3 case; there is a small step down to the cap cover. If they are at the same level, then it is an older case.

I've attached a picture for easier comparison, I hope this helps!

Note: The V3 pictured is one of the original V3's, that didn't have the power wires soldered on the board.

Thomas Porfert
Castle Tech Support

Thank you, it has a V3 case. Might still have a true V2 heart though. :intello:

I'm getting a brushed setup for winter so the MMM will have its rest for a while. (and start with new lipos and higher gearing in spring:oops:)

Okay, I opened it today and these are the numbers:

http://www.shrani.si/t/U/vj/1gYy0wPM/dscn1096.jpg

http://www.shrani.si/t/1P/5k/4z5MG0P6/dscn1097.jpg


You can probably tell me if it's a refurb by looking at the no-switch job? Do you do it like this?

http://www.shrani.si/t/3t/13F/2TYhJUcl/dscn1099.jpg

Thanks

Blue control board = V3 or later. V1/V2 had a green control board.

Can you tell me if it's a refurb? (based on the switchless job) Did you at CC remove the switch that way as it's on mine? (probably hard to understand:lol:)

There are no V3 refurbs. So, no, it's not a refurb. :yipi:

Someone decided to cut off the switch -- the refurbs had a jumper on the circuit board.

I have already replaced the case on my MMM. Can I tell what kind it is by looking at the board?

Yes a couple of posts above!

Thanks

I have an old V2 that was used* with 6S and the 2650kv motor in a Revo and both STILL work perfect. Running v1.21 software. The only thing Ive replaced was the fan(a few times). Was going to send it in to Castle to get it swapped out for the new version, but why? If it aint broke dont fix it.

*beat to hell

My ESC has the power input wires soldered directly to the board, so early v2?

I recently started using 4S for racing. The 6S was fine for messing around, but under race conditions it made everything to hot.