HOBAO Hyper 9E Build complete
 

Just finished this afternoon, Happy to report this is a well built buggy and engineering is excellent. It comes ATR, The shocks have to built and electronics installed. I torn it down completely to change diff viscositys to
5K/F-5K/C-3K/R and checked all the hardware. It was all tight and loctite was used everywhere. They did a great job at the factory. The directions were a little hit and miss, a novice builder would find difficultys in some areas.
Set up is as follows; NEU 1515-1Y & M.M.M. geared 40/13,weight is 7.5lbs w/4000mah 4s and body,JR DS8711,Spektrum. Anxious to see how it performs with these 17mm bore shocks ?

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...z/P8300002.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...z/P8300003.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...z/P8300011.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...z/P8300009.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...z/P8300007.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...z/P8300008.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...z/P8300006.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...z/P8300012.jpg

It just needs a nose now! :lol:


Looks good though, I liked my Hyper 9E, I see you've done the radio tray conversion too, personally I felt it was fine as it was. Nice classic lines on the body, I like it!

A complement from a buggy guru like youself is always welcomed, Thanks Simon.

better watch the dirt roost from the front tires getting into the mmm and motor. imo it needs dirt guards... nice buggy btw

Looks great!! Why oh why didnt they give it gaurds or a slim line body.. Realy puts me off getting one with our wet UK tracks

Yeah, I'm hearing you there. I have sealed the can w/aluminum tape and shoe goo. I have the Hyper 9 mud gaurds coming from a ebay purchase along with several goodies. I will try to make the Mud gaurds work but the body is pretty narrow compared to other guys posts complaining about the over hang, Mine is not to bad, Revised body for the kit I guess ?

Thanks

You could get some sheet lexan (or thin polycarbonate), bend it and screw it down to the chassis. They'd work... Probably...

I had the same bodyshell as you by the way, it seems the others had Proline (or similar) bodies for theirs. I had the Hyper 9 prototype-like shell.

I was thinking that already, I have some .080 thick lexan sheet. I have a sheetmetal break I can make nice crisp lines with. I'm sure the Mud Gaurds are way to big,but if i decide to run a regular body I can incorperate them then. Time will tell.

The Hot Bodies Ve8 body may fit as well, it's really narrow so it may be worth a shot.

Thanks for calling me a 'buggy guru', but you overrate me...

Sweet setup Bondo. This is (somehow) the first time I've seen the 9E. I really like the layout of the chassis. :yes:

looks good, now go out there and get that thing dirty.

Thanks fellas, Hoping to test and tune Weds.:yipi::party:

Which'll be quite easy with the body design :lol:

Nah, you'll like it. A mark of how much everyone else likes it is that the major complaint is: "No side guards mean that the insides get a little dusty."

Not the most major thing to worry about to be honest.

true, but really if my biggest complaint is the body or mudguards then the car must be pretty good.

hey just noticed the little support under the motor. what is that from? I dont have that with my car. looks the one from the losi 8, maybe?

I don't know, it's not even the Hyper 9E official brace that I didn't get with mine but most others did.

I think you're right, it looks like the Losi one.

You boys are correct, losi 8ight motor support (LOSA4462).
When I remove the motor next time I'm going to file a few fins down so I can slide it under the motor more if not completely.

My Hyper9E heatsink support is F.S. ? PM if anyone is interested.

Heres a couple pics of how the body fits. Not perfect but definitely a ton better than most I've seen.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...z/P8310001.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...z/P8310002.jpg

man I must really have a problem if I can tell what car that black piece of plastic comes from.

No, Your just that awesome !!







In your own mind. :rofl:
Good guess.

Q
 

I just received my newer version of the Hyper 9 front control arms and I'm a little confused. The original arms look beefier except for the little brace under the C-hub?? Anybody clear weither I have the correct arms ?
I also got the upper arms and they are shorter ? DOH ?
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...z/P9060006.jpg



I also found these slick little skid plates, the Guy on Ebay has them for all models of buggys and truggys. Depending what brand, you get 2 or 3 for 8.00 delivered.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...z/P9050002.jpg


The stupid weather hasn't let me get to the track yet,Between the weather and visiting family from out of town :no:
I hope to make it next Saturday,my fat fingers are crossed.

hmm, not sure. Check with the Hyper 9 nitro forum on rctech. they probably can better explain.

I'm not real crazy about that forum, I already got my ass chewed out by a mod twice over little BS stuff. If I did wrong I have no problem admitting it but he was a dick and was talking down on me like I was some kid ?
I'll take a peek over there,Thanks Cain.

those are the wrong arms, i have a hyper 9 nitro and what you have there are the new 9b arms. The ones you need have a little lip on the leading edge and are 2mm longer, you will also want the new upper front arms which are more beefy.

pic for you of what you want

http://i.ebayimg.com/11/!BV3(6mg!2k~...mE!o0w~~_1.JPG

More info here for you

http://ofna.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11806&start=15

CRAP !!!! My buggy came with the better arms. I bought the extras ones because someone on RC-Tech said for spares I should get the "B" versions. I wish I could remember whom it was.
Well if they're junk they'll make fine spares I guess ? Glad I waited to finish putting it back together.
Thanks for your help Lambchops !

no worries mate, it is a bit confusing these diff versions.. quite why they have brought out a B version front end anyway isnt realy clear to me... But i do know the B parts do have to be used togther

I was the one based on a misunderstanding who advised you to go with the B version arms prior to others posting on RCtech more info about them. I appologize. I have updated my links to reflect this. Once again, I do appologize.

Your the culprit !!!
I honestly don't remember who it was ?? You were very helpful in all the other correct info you passed onto me,don't sweat it Cain. I appreciate your honestly but really, no worrys. I can still use those parts, I guess ? Worst case scenario I'll Ebay them and recoup some $.
So after the post of the ofna rep, I guess it's safe to assume my ARTR had the updated parts as well as the proline body,that makes me very content.
I installed some goodys today on it and my throttle finger is itching for some track time.

Bondonutz: yup, its was me. I went and checked and updated all the links. I don't like giving out bad info, and what basically happened was I have issues with ofnas forums not working correctly on my PC so I don't visit there often.

did you loctite on the motor shaft?

A Lil' dab of Blue I did.
I ran 3 packs thru in the yard and still is OK. I reckon a few jumps on the track will be a test. I've read a few folks having problems with the pinions coming loose, Is it a vibration issue or gentile fingers to weak to tighten it properly you think ???

I can't beleive how freakin' lame that Ofna forum is, It's actually worse than NitroKillers.

I haven't had issues with that forum, got a link to where you were having troubles?

I noticed that since its a metal to metal contact with the pinion to spur, it does get warm there, not sure if thats breaking the bond or not of the blue locktite.

I will be reversing the direction of the ESC I have mounted. Good thing I have the heavy duty velcro!

Im really thinking of converting my 9 to electric but dont want to spend out of the full conversion... tight

I wonder if the motor mount can be used on the standard diff housing, do you know if this is a special diff for the 9e?

I'm afraid that the two centre diffs are very diff-erent (oh the pun!).

The 9E uses a 'short' centre diff, like the mini truggies and a 40T spur, whilst the nitro version uses a full-size centre diff and something like a 46T spur?

I suppose you may be able to fit the 40T spur to the nitro diff, you'd need all the 9E's diff mounts due to the varied height. You'd also need to check hole spacing of both diff mounts, as the 9 nitro's holes may be further apart.

A thought on keeping the inside cleaner, since people use pieces of lexan to act like shields for the rear driveshafts, it could be possible to do the same for the electronics, say from between the ESC and servo back to the motor? I am thinking something like this:


motor ESC | servo
__________|

Where the lines are the lexan. You could even bolt the lexan underneath part of the servo motor and the motor mount depending on how you bend it, depending on high the lexan shield is, you could make it tall enough that the force of the body coming down on it could hold it down, or rig something like a little lip for some servo tape.

The 9e and nitro use the same diff and spur.

Could work Cain but you might have to be careful with temps as would be an airflow issue I would imagine..

Can anyone compare the part numbers to the centre diff mounts, the nitro uses parts 89042 for the upright diff parts and 89040 for the metal top brace and 89004 for the diff case, what does the 9e have in the manual?

Yes you're right. Just had a look at OFNA's website. I don't know why I thought they were different.

Going by OFNA part numbers (as the manuals are on their website), 29004 is the diff case on both the 9 and 9E. 29045 is the spur on both.

The part numbers (20942) are the same for the centre diff mounts on both. It looks like it will work! The only bits you'll need are the motor mount and a battery box.

oh sounds very promising then Marvin... Will look in to this both me and my dad run Nitro 9's and he's already decided to go brushless im pricing it for him now. Cool that will save a packet then on all the 9e parts.

Also a great way to solve the gaurds issue use the standard chassis!!

I think airflow may not be too bad as the stock body still is not fully closed up to the chassis, so you would get some airflow there, and you could vent the window probably too. Probably temp issue as much as a sealed in body design.