elc. conversion project done right... with an 808
 

Of the motors mentioned, I would use a 1412...

why?

Since you already have an RX8 why not get a Tekin sensored motor to match? Then since it's sensored it should be super smooth.

wight... and there still haveing probs with the rotor

I got my MBX6 down to 7 lbs, 4oz. The X-ray is a little lighter stock so you should be able to do it. I have a Tekin ESC & 1400 motor run off of a 6S 2600mAh Hyperion G3 (405 grams). Losi battery tray (lightened & modified). Some aluminium axles & ty screws.

run times???

TI screws are a little out of my price range:gasp:

Depending on the size of the track, you'll need somewhere between 4,000 and 5,000 mAh on a 4s pack for 15 minutes. Despite higher voltage and a low kv motor being slightly more efficient, I still recommend 4s as it sits lower in the chassis. As far as a motor goes, I wouldn't run anything besides a tekin Rx8 motor. Simply put they are very efficient (at least mine is) and they are built for cars, and only an oz heavier than the novak motors. Neu motors have stiff wires which will fatigue and fail over time, which is why i wouldn't recommend them. Anyways, skimping on electronics is the worst way to save weight imo from experience.

For my 8ight, which is exactly 7.5lb with Aka City blocks and a Zippy Flightmax 4s 5000 mah battery, i get 18 to 29 minutes of runtime depending on the track and motor temps no higher than 130F with the Tekin 1900 kv motor, which is plenty. It's faster than nitro geared 16/46, but 14/46 is all i ever need. I have tried many 1/8 motor, battery, esc setups and this one is rock solid. Esc is the Mamba Monster w/ no fan as it just causes problems and is not necessary. For a grossly overpowered setup that will awe the nitro fans, just run 5s on the same motor, but i doubt it will ever improve your laptimes unless you are on a 200 ft track. For bashing on the street. i run 6s and it's pretty sick.

I didn't relize that the tekin buggy motors were that light, the only thing I have/had to compair was my truggy motor and a novak one



IDK, but I like the idea of a lower Mah 6s...

it is a 200ft track...:party:

now, I know there are diffrent weaves of CF, but I found this on ebay is it any good???

Run time at medium large outdoor track is around 15 minutes.

TI screw kits for Mugen are about $75.

In a typical 5 minute qual with 1.5 to 2 minutes of warm up I burn around 950mA.

On an 85 deg day, motor= about 120 to 130 deg, ESC w/no fan= about 130 to 140 & cells around 110.

how much weight did they shave off???

If your talking about the screws, I cannot remember but seems like it was a few oz (did it a year ago). Problem is that I don't see any other mfg making Ti kits for their cars. Mugen has for years. To buy them seperately would cost a bunch.

I'll buy one of the mugan screw kits and hope that most of them fit...

its going to be pretty exensive to do a 7 pound electric 808. my nitro 808 weights 7.2 pounds. and it is stock. and i know the electric stuff is going to weight more and xray hop up parts that lighten it are not cheap.

but good luck and if you do get it to 7 pounds. good luck controlling it lol. i have a little 3 port motor in mine that can keep up with any motor. even my buddys crazy modified nova's

I'v got all winter to buy stuff:yes: and I won't be keeping any recipts:whistle:

the list
one off custom chassis/batt box
TI turnbuckles
alloy "balls" that go into the rod ends
CF front top plate
alloy axles


whats everyone think about useing standard 14mm shocks instaid of BBs???

what about a CF motor plate?:neutral:

from what I'v read, I can melt the resin and "bend" the CF with a heat gun, right?

get the new xray 5mm turnbuckles. they are 50% lighter then stock and get all the lighten outdrives. those are going to save up a bit of weight too.

all i want to get for my car is the lighten outdrives but i think if i do im going to be to light to race in any big event lol. im currently at 3280g and the lightest you can be is 3200 lol.

not to burst you bubble but the Mp-9 i built is and was the 1st sub 7 pounder but its not possible to get one that light and have it run 15 minutes we get 12-13 out of it and thats pushing it....

just search Josh's MP-9 and yes the 808 it LIGHT but not near as light as the mp9....the weight is in the drivetrain diffs, shafts, etc.... with out sarcrifaicing durability which is the main point of an 1/8th scale...

:slap: I will do it!!!:na:

if you want to shave weight run a thin body thats been painted light, dont run scrapers or mud guards, use a smaller low kv motor 1300-1700 kv on 6s 2600-3300. keep the car all plastic, use the updated links, dont run a rx box. and if your desperate you could replace all the hardware.....

other than that there really isnt much you can do with out sacraficing durability.

the plan

custom CF chassis, with integrated batt box+servo mounts
TI turnbuckles
TI screws
TI hingpins
aloy axles

for a motor, the 1412 is looking realy nice...

any opinions on useing standard 14mm shocks over BBs??

the standard xray shocks dont even compare to the big bores.... the xray big bores are the best shocks you can get..... they are in a league of their own

Back in the day, I had my Losi at 7lbs 3oz and could have dropped the 3oz pretty easy. I could have swapped the 1512 for a 1509, and that would almost do it. Also, I was running a Kokam 4s 4800 which heavier than the average pack (per mah) so could have saved a little there too.

It's not that hard to do with a Losi/808, just have to pick a light motor/batt and go simple on the batt mount.

btw, my Caster Fusion Pro was 7.5lbs earlier this summer... it's a little fatter now, with a different motor/esc/batt setup. That's pretty light considering most E buggies are well over 8lbs... often around 9lbs

the goody list....

Elite RC motor mount don't hang me, but I like this mount better than the RCM one...:eyes:
novak battery trays
x2 3s 3300mah hyperion G3 25c(for now)
custom CF chassis
tekin 1400

after a little playing around, I decided to go with a duel pack layout like the caster.

can anyone conferm that the H9 center diff is SHORTER?

Wow that is a sick ass mount...like the Losi only better!! WOW!! Well I just bought a xt8 now I have to buy a friggin Mugen just for the mount....and its a bad ass truggy!!

Gosh and I just bought a new mount from mike for the 808. Hmmm :whistle:

anyone know were to get some novak batt trays other than there store??? :neutral:

How do you know you like that mount better? Have you ever used mine? My 808 mount is lighter(negligible), allows easy diff removal, will last longer without wear(that design will eventually develop slop), accepts mechanical brakes and is black anodized to match the car.
Nothing against those mounts(or Brandon, who used to be a good customer) - they look nice - and the top screw access is a nice feature on paper, but how often do you really change the pinion(and when you do, my mounts only require 1/2 turn with an l wrench to remove the motor)?
The 7075 vs 6061 thing is more marketing than anything else - either material is sufficient on these items. On a part this small, the cost difference is within a buck or two. Technically the 7075 is stronger, but also heavier. I choose to use 6061 because the 7075 is not needed - the strength is in the design(several thousand mounts sold and 12 +/- bent - way less than 1% failure rate). I do encourage you to try whatever you like, but perhaps you can reserve judgement on which one you like better until after you try both. :)

yep, I have one of your mounts on my jammin, I love it, but removing he motor is a PIA, I'm not using mechanical brakes, or need the center diff access...


I will probably end up with one of your mounts, but I want to try one of these first.:neutral:

i hate the one screw mounts, i just dont trust them... and most will need replaced in one season due to the slop. You want a light weight easy to work on on buggy take a look at my 808 you remove 4 screws and loose the two motor screw a half turn, and cut one zip tie on the rx and bingo you have just stripped the entire car's electronics, dont unplug anything just comes right off.....in less than minute, makes its SOOO easy to clean between rounds.

Hey Whitrzac, got your 4mm holes drilled..

Thanks Desert RC for your compliments, I use to have 2 threads on this message board with pictures & details of my MP9 & MBX6T, but some how it was deleted or magically disappeared TWICE, kinda funny, but I'm glad you found it elsewhere :oops:
Hey Mike, nice to see you're optimistic about my product, kinda contradicting yourself don't you think, never tried my mount but you're certain about it's design & durability.. It's kinda harsh to compare my product with a mount that is cast not machined & massed produced in China..Maybe you should buy one of my mounts & use it maybe then you'll see the engineering behind it, maybe you'll like it :yes:. Oh by the way, Linerv from RCTECH is wondering why you're denying him to join your message board, he wants to point out his concerns regarding his bent/twisted 808 mount he bought from you..

Hi Rootar, I'm Brandon from Elite RC, I don't blame you for feeling the way you do about Losi mounts, I know you might think my mounts are similar but it's designed to lock in place like a pressure cam lock, and have no play whatsoever, even through time, I had sponsored drivers use my product with zero issues, they even claim it to be the best mount ever.. I mean everyone has there own opinion, if you're happy with your setup then stick with it.
Just keep this in mind, don't knock it till you try it :wink:

Brandon,
I merely offered my observations on your offering - I didn't bash your mount, nor will I(unlike your jabs at mine). I wish you good luck. How exactly did I contradict myself, though? I didn't compare your mount to anything made in China, mass produced or cast. My motor mounts are cnc machined right here in the USA and always have been. I simply made an observation in relation to my own offering. And why would I try your motor mount? - I created an original design that happens to work extremely well and is proven over time. My philosophy is to innovate, not duplicate - note that my mounts are the original (and still the best). I simply created an innovative and new product idea, produced it and brought it to market. I then continued to develop that same idea and product for several years. I didn't disrespect anyone along the way. I didn't didn't promote my stuff on any competitors site(there were none initially, but I still haven't done so).

I approved Linerv's account the day he signed up - he simply hasn't posted(maybe the approval was caught in a spam filter or something - I don't know). I also emailed him several times and posted on RCTech regarding the bent mount. It happens, Brandon. When you get a few thousand motor mounts sold and in service for a few years(if you do), you will experience a few failures - the failure rate on mine is far less than 1% and I replace bent or broken mounts for 1/2 price - I wish you luck in achieving the same success. I believe in my own product, as you do in yours.

And I deleted your threads here(and I didn't think it was funny) - and if you continue promoting your directly competing products ON MY SITE, I will delete your account. I explained this over several PMs to you when it happened, but you somehow can't understand my stance? It is called respect and common sense. I haven't disrespected you, so please don't disrespect me(especially on my own site). This includes trying to drum up sales here - it is akin to me setting up a shopping cart on your site. Pretty sure any manufacturer will feel the same way - particularly when you are attempting to enter the market with offerings that are directly competing with mine. This is my site - you are welcome to discuss the hobby here, but I ask that you(and anyone else) remember that this is my site and how I make my living, so be respectful and courteous of this when you are here.

I have spent several years building this business and fueling the brushless 1/8 scale segment of the hobby and created inertia in this segment in many ways. I support the hobby as it is my passion. I work tirelessly to remain innovative and competitive without "selling out" to China or Taiwan. I have continued to develop and offer innovative products for my chosen segment of the hobby(the segment which was developed almost solely by RC-Monster for several years prior to becoming somewhat mainstream). In some ways, I created my own market early on(how many people even had a clue about brushless cars and trucks when I started this site almost 6 years ago or 10+ years ago when I started to use brushless in my gen1 Emaxx?) - this takes a little more salt than entering a growing and established segment with a slightly different version of someone else's established and proven product.

This segment of the hobby has grown tremendously and will continue to grow in the future. Major manufacturers have entered the segment, along with several smaller start-ups like Elite and RC product Designs(one of the early comers into this segment), and "bigger budget" entities like Novak, Castle Creations and Tekno, etc. As the market grows and competition sprouts up, the products continue to evolve and prices come down. Welcome aboard, Brandon. There is going to be enough business for anyone that can offer a competitive product and service over time. Let your product and service speak for itself and you will be successful. Please be respectful of RC-Monster when you post on this site - you are welcome to use the site as you have in the past and likely still do for information and expertise, but you are not authorized to use my site to promote your new business venture. :)

Brandon i was not knocking your particular product as i have never had one in hand,but honestly dont see how your design "cam locks" into place, i see a pair of screws on top instead of one, and i dont like how you use statement "I had sponsored drivers use my product" whoop-de-doo trust me having a sponsored driver run your product does not give you good durability testing..... they are smooth and experienced drivers generally, they arent out there flat landing or nose diving huge jumps every other lap...

besides i thought it was distasteful on your part from the begining to "advertise" your products on here, you got your yourself a cad program and drew up some "slightly different" mounts from those already out and then made them for other brands of cars, you have your parts made by a machinist, well guess what, mike is a machinist and has much more knowledge on designs and how things are made than you do. I think your poking your stick in the wrong fire over here.

we werent condemning whitrzac for using your mount, but i didnt under stand why he would pay a silly high price for your mount over mike's and then get those cheapo novak trays


sorry for cluttering your thread whitrzac do you have any updates on your buggy, pics would be nice.

Generally not a good idea to call the site owner an idiot... Just a bit of friendly advice for you:rules:

I understand the desire to try something different, I did the same thing with lipos (and will continue) as it was better in my mind to have 1st hand experience.

I have to side with Mike on the "business ethics" discussed in his previous post. Plus, this is his site, and what he says goes. You always defer to the guy paying the bills, that is how life works!

I am sure the elite mount is nicely made, and will hold the motor in place and hopefully keep the mesh consistent under a range of use common to rc driving. If it is more expensive than a rcm mount, I see no reason to use it. That is just me, if both items perform the given task, the cheaper one is a better purchase.

As for bringing up some other user's issues from another forum and attempting to belittle your competition over their "purported" actions toward said person, well that is dick. You are showing yourself up Brandon, not a good idea. Let other people deal with their own business, trying to stir the pot in order to make yourself look better is never productive. Trust me on this, I am far from perfect and own my own highly competitive business (auto body repair), and I have made these mistakes. Nothing positive is ever gained trying to make your competition look bad. Just do right by your customers and they will refer you and your business will grow.

Hi Mike, I didn't mean to stir trouble..I have never trash talked nor made any comments to you here nor any other forum until yesterday.. It's really pointless to express what I think cause obviously whatever I type hear right or wrong it will be viewed as WRONG by you or your users.. Like Lincpimp said "you're the Boss"
Whitrzac is right, no point going back & forth like idiots, but I can't sit there & read how you describe my mount as a Losi kockoff. I don't think you would like it if tables were turned, but it's your forum so It's my fault for even trying..
If you say my product is a good knockoff and yours is superior then that's what it is, end of discussion.
I will personally apologize to everyone who I have offended.


Thank you for those who have supported me..

Brandon

Guys is it really worth the aggrovation to get at eachothers throat.


I have used an rc-monster mount, Not the elite rc.


To be honest I bent the crap out of my mount, it was my fault i might ad... off a 6 foot kicker ramp strait up. and strait down nose first.... Broke A-arm, body mount, bent a chassis ETC


Not the MFG's fault.

This isnt a Flame thread.
Brandon, dont take me wrong I may not know the whole story- but isnt mike being very kind to allow you to post and advertise your product- which is a direct competitor to him?

Thats love of the hobby! (try that on traxxas or MA forums and see what happens)

Mike respects you enough to let you post your work on his site. and brandon respects mike and knows the best place on the web to post it.


You both are innovators of the hobby- dont interfere with each other.


No offense to either of you but your both driving in the same direction, dont fight for elbow room on the center armrest.

If you catch my drift.

-Ben

Hi Ben,

Actually I think you must've misread Mike's post, I can't post anything regarding my product. I wish he was that considerate, I mean Tekno & RC-product have threads here, maybe because I'm Chinese :lol: JK.
If tables were turned & when I get my own forum up & running Mike & others are free to come and talk, share about their products or ideas all they want..

Everyone here on this forum are good people, they're knowledgeable and love this hobby, that's why I chose to talk about my designs and builds cause I respect RC-monster as the leading place to be in 1/8 electric, but some see my intentions differently, they seem to think I want to steal business away..so I respect their wishes & have never posted since... I would love to show off my work, but I can't..

Well Thank you anyways for your insight..

Brandon

now that it seem that you 2 are done fighting....:slap:




I plan on making a chassis from 3mm alloy before I atempt a CF one...

the chassis will be ~3mm longer in the rear, and I will do away with the stock mudgaurds and just run alloy alltheway out to the body.

there's only 71mm between the motor mount and bellcranks:gasp::neutral:the way it looks is that the tekin motors are outa the runing:cry:

motors that I know will fit
NEU 1512/1509 60mm/53
medusa 60mm


hackjob layout pics...
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...8/IMG_0491.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...8/IMG_0489.jpg

after get low on $$ the buggy was placed in a drawer and forgotten about for months...


now a simi local track is geting an indoor 1/8 track for winter:yipi: rules state that it has to be <1900kv, and 4s HARDCASE limit...

neu 1509 2y is on its way
mike should have an 808 chassis kit, soon:neutral:
that leaves me with geting a bat...


needs to be light, 2x2s, or 4s able to make 15min on a 100x50ish track the celing is only 10-15ft up so there wont be any big jumps, and the dirt should be rock hard 3wks in...

would it be possible to make 15ish with a 4000mah?

TP makes a 4s 4200 hardcase pack that better than any other 4s hardcase i have seen. very stout packs. 15 mins should be very easy to get on a hard pack indoor track.

$200... ouch....


http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...C-148V-4200mAh


edit, $180 isn't tooo bad, does anyone have info on how much the pack wights?