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flip flop switch
i know it'd take castle a little adding to put one into their ESC's...but i cant possibly think of a better addition to ESC's like the MMM!!
i'm sure there is a V4 in the works. can we please have a flip-flop-power-on switch installed to ESC's? reason being is i belive that the current MMM switches are turning off because of G-force acting on the switch and turning it off..totally convinced! a flip-flop switch for thoes who dont know is a small device that turns a momentary switch into a on/off switch. hence you can use a micro-switch like the one used for buttons in your car sterio to act as an on/off switch. these switches are very light and i highly doubt they will be affected by the massive G-forces the cars are put under so they wont turn off!!! i would do it myself but i cant get 6v from the switch wires on the MMM and getting 6v from the reciver is pointless untill the unit is turned on....which you need the switch to do. but with castle's shop i'm sure a flip flop switch intergration into the MMM's low voltage brain board cant be too hard! hope one of the crew hears the plea for help:lol: shaun |
I say a momentary push button to arm the esc :)
or beter yet. Make open circuit on so that if a switch were to fail we wouldnt be scrambling wondering why our Esc's dont work. :) |
that's what a flip flop switch does ^^ ;)
so it'd be set to fail in an open position:yes: |
In my experience, having no on/off switch works great. You shouldn't have your battery plugged in when your car is not running anyway.
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i just dont like the massive ark you get from the caps charging when you first plug in the ESC.
and you cant beat plugging in your batts in prep for a race, walk to the track, hit the button (i have mine so it is accessible from outside the body) and walking away from the car as it twidles it's little diagnostics tune:yipi: after the race you just come back and rather than taking off the body just hit the switch then go marshaling (our club policy) then come back later and un-plug. shaun |
What's interesting is that MMM, with the switch still attached, sparks every time I plug it in regardless of the position of the switch. The switch works just fine and there's nothing wrong with my MMM...
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I think the switch should be connected with a connector. Something like a jst plug or the connector on the blade mcx battery. Include a cover for the connector or a blank connector so dirt doesn't get in it if the esc is ran without the switch. Make it so when the switch is unplugged the esc is on. That is the best solution IMO.
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Clip, solder, heatshrink.
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no switches!!!!!!!!!
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i thnik you got me on that one unsullied:lol:
if switch is on, caps still get charged, if switch is off, main board gets it's caps charged while brain board dosent get power. ok so most people here gave up on the switch, but is that because you didn't like the reliability? i just figured that leaving the main board powered for a little while whilst you go marshal a 10 min heat wouldent be so bad. fets are pretty safe without a signal! |
Switches are, IMO, best for programming and getting the ESC calibrated to your radio. I have a few ESCs without switches and I don't know how I'd be able to plug in the Deans and work the transmitter if I weren't ambidextrous. I do think that they should go with the open circuit switch though, my MGM is that way and since the switch broke off it has still worked just fine. My problem with having a switch is it's inevitably going to get dirty and messed up, so it would have to be a well-protected switch (rubber boot over the opening in the case would suffice).
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So whats the word switch good and needed or does not matter or use it till it fails then get rid of it.
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In my 8ight I run a Jst extension under the battery tray to my radio box, with a switch in the standard position (as nitro) wired up to my esc's. Has one of those silicone rubber boots and works great. |
I prefer the switch, but I tend to choose convienance over anything else. And mine arcs too on first plug in, but im used to it by now.
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Someone once told me if it aint broke dont fix it
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So whilst I'd like to keep the switch as I've got it mounted nicely in the 8T using the Traxxas MMM holder, I'm thinking it might be time to remove it or clean it out and try to stick a rubber boot over it. Any suggestions to protect it or should I simply cut it off? |
If you're gonna replace it, replace it with a better sealed toggle style.
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Might try to clean up the switch and use one of these over it, I'm sure I've got one knocking about: http://www.bluegrooveracing.co.uk/a4...pad-i1231.html |
I use this one a lot: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062485
The high current rating means the toggle actuates very solidly, which provides a good contact and makes it harder for hard knocks to jar the toggle. |
hehe...my stock switch also got dirty and played up a bit...
but since i was too lazy to fix it, it came right again :lol:!! but wish castle would install a flip flop switch! |
Well I cleaned mine up, then mounted it upside down instead on the Traxxas MMM mount. I figured that way at least the crud can't fall into it! We'll see how that gets on, otherwise a new switch/ no switch will be sorted.
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