How to build it?
 

I've just received my things from Mike to build up a full aluminum maxx from FLM and mostly UE parts. I want someone to help me in building the 7.5 8 spider diffs. The 8 spider came with no instructions and I'm very confused. If somebody can help me with pics and whatever info he has to help me complete the building of the diffs I'll be most appreciative. Thanks.

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...ctionsV1.1.pdf These are straight from UE. Hope this helps, if i had these diffs, i wouldve tooken you step by step but the revo doesnt use 1/8 diffs, YET! All i know of is to properlly shim the diffs.

Could you please take some pics of alll the parts? I'd really like to see how they look :)

You'll find these instructions most usefull, if not, just let us know.

Thanks, but the link is not working with me. BTW, I bought the 8 spider gear set which means I will need a setup kit for these diffs. Mike sent me this setup kit, only. Is it this the one I'm supposed to use with the gear set:

Do I need two of this or only one?!!

I had a 6 spyder set and only used one. You need adobe reader for the link.

I'm having some trouble to make the bearings fit the hybrid bulks. They fit in one side, but they hardly fit in the other side. It needs to be smoothered a bit. Now I can say that FLM is but nothing compared to UE.

You just have to dremel a bit of the aluminum, FLM may need a little work to get a perfect fit, but man, for the price, you just CANT beat it!

The bearing holes have a very tight tolerance. The UE VBS is about the same, to be honest. Most every intricate design will have slight areas where you may have to trim a touch (UE VBS is tight in the suspension arm area, for instance). I wouldn't dremel th bearing holes, though. The bearings are snug, but they will go in. Also, one diff setup kit is usually plenty for a pair of diffs. You may not even need those, but better safe than sorry.

I though they didnt fit at all, its ok to have a tight fit for a bearing, its a whole different story for suspension arm area!

Don't want a to tight bearing fit though. You'll know why when you disassemble the diff for maintanance/ new oil.

It's true that UE has a tight arm fit. I had to trim some racer x arm's to smooth it out. But remember, UE built their arm's around the stock bulk's, I run ga's. It only take's 0.1 mm to cause possible problem's.

I rather trim something down than add material.....

Enough of that, people. I guess I have to go through problems if I want to become a real hobbyest. Well, about the differentials, could you please tell me, in your own wording, how to build it? I managed to put it together, but I dont know about those red O rings. Where do they go? the big ones works like an oil sealer where you put it around the edge of the diff's case. Right? do I have to use it on both sides of the case? What about the small ones?!!

You really should get adobe reader. The 8 spyder is such a complicated diff that it is hard to help you build one without picture's.

Your right about the big o ring. The small o ring goes on in the small notch on the diff side's(where the output for the cvd's go thru).

Okay. What am I supposed to use inorder to make the setback arms fit the rear hybrid bulk? No matter what, its simply wont get in. Hey guys, please, I'm a member here and I'm in a very critical condition. I thought putting a supermaxx together is like building up a 4WD touring car. The parts are much bigger and that should make the whole building process alot easier, right? But it seems each time I solve a problem, a bigger one pops up. I dont want to wreck the truck which costed me over 1800 dollars with out motor or controller or servo or even batteries and receivers. I dont know what type of dremel I have to use. I dont know which part I have to modify first, the arms or the hybrids?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Could you take a pic of it captain? I don't understand what is wrong. I have had to use a file to thin some things down to fit like they supposed to.

Hey, I took a look at yours and the version 3 out of 3 chassis. Mine is much different than either of the two.

If your having trouble viewing the directions in acrobat - i could try to convert to microsoft word - if this will help you - let me know

After looking around I think it may be 4 versions. I like the 4 th better. Is that the one you got.

Yeah, I guess it is. Pics will come later.

Hotncold: Thanks, buddy, I've already downloaded the adobe reader.

Coolhandcountry: would a file do the job to fix things?

Oh crap - now i have the instructions but no diffs - lol - no prob - good luck

What do you mean?!!

I downloaded the stuff from ue - for the 8 spyders - and printed them to scan them into a program that you probably had so you could see how to do the diffs - to try to help you with the diff problem you were having

Man, you didn't have to, really. Thanks a million, though.

I read your post and i just couldnt help myself - I feel for ya man - sometimes it sucks to be stuck and all you wanna do is be done with it - no problem whatsoever - Good Luck -

It fixed little problems i had captain. The file took it down little at a time. The dremel will remove it faster but you can remove to much. I took a little out the inside where the a arms go. I took a little of the a arm to. It takes a little time but it is better than buying more stuff.

A file would be the best IMO. Take your time and remove a little material and try to fit - repeat as necessary. Take your time and when your done, you will have an awesome machine. :)

What about the hole of the hybrids? the one which holds the two bearings of the pinion gear. The left side of the front hybrid seems thicker than the right one. When I put the bearing in it, it is pretty difficult to make the bearing rotates freely.

Using a file I might let the hybrid's sides and the setback arms look ugly. Well, I already made them look ugly.

make sure the bearing isn't in sideways or something. I am pretty sure they are assembled and machined as a single unit.

I've filed my racer x arm's down too to make them fit ga bulk's. Big deal, they work like supposed to and the rough finnish won't make them loose performance. Unless your building a show off truck.

About the snug bearing fit, if you really don't see a way of getting a bearing in there without modding it, send it back to flm. You could sand it down yourself, but to much and the bearing will wobble, causing the diff to prolly self destruct.

Also problem's happen when building these type's of truck with part's from different mfg's. Need to get used to it that it's more than screw part a onto part b.

I'm million percent sure it is in it's right place.

that are an awful lot of percents.. :p

Can't you heat up the aluminum on a stove? (keep the bearing out first) oldest trick in the book..

That is a pretty high percentage! Take a picture and e-mail it to me if you want.

Guys, guys..
Calm down.

I understand your frustration Captain, Sneeck was only trying to be helpfull! don't blame eachother, it's not your own fault..

Did you tried the heating method captain?

Hey the bearing in the freezer works to. I have did that a few times on 1 to 1.

Sorry, people. I did not mean to hurt you, Sneeck. I did not even know that you've replied to my last post. It was not directed to you, really, but to the point that I can send it to FLM and get a new replacement is a bit rediculous, since the distance between me and America is pretty looooooooong. Sorry, again.

Serum, I took a deep look at the hole of the bearing and I can tell from what I see is that when you make the front hole of the hybrid faces you, the left half is quite smaller than the right half. I guess that its a factory defect. Now I really need a replacement unless I can trim it, but it seems pretty difficult to be done.

Here's a pic:

Few pics of the things I got:

Al the ingredients are there to make a nice truck! (ark in your case...)

That bearing thing; what happens if you press them together hard Captain?

Isn't there a small part inside from the machining? it does look like only the corners are a bit too tight..