I think my Neu 1515 1y broke down ..
 

Hi guys,

I felt like driving my rC8Te a little today so I put on my PL Mashers to drive this thing on the road in front of my house a little.

After about two minutes in it was cogging (but more extreme) like crazy. So I stopped and took it in to check what was wrong. I think the motor is shot, no idea what or why. Temps were just 30C / 90F so that wasn't the problem. I made a little movie, hopefully you guys can help me.

[YOUTUBE]MMS4qqP3DvQ[/YOUTUBE]

ps. Sorry for the bad lighting!

Thanks!
Nard

Check all of your motor/esc connections. Look for a loose solder joint or a bad connector.

Will do, just checked the software also. It's 1.21 and set it to factory, then updated the cut off to 3.4v. No solution .. will check the connections (in detail) now.

EDIT : Just tried 100 times. It seems that when the tires are of the ground it all works pretty good. But as fast as I put it on the ground it dead. So don't there it's a connection since otherwise it would also cog in the air right ?

All connectors seem solid but they all have heatshrink on it so I can't look 'into' that.

Hmmm. For your testing, is the battery topped off? I would set the LVC to 3.0 per cell, just to be sure that the LVC isn't an issue. This is a recent development, correct?

It could be the windings. You may or may not know this, but on the Neu motors, the exit wires are part of the windings. Damage or cutting those wires can cause this problem.

This LiPo has 3.8v per cell left. Also tried another one which had 4.2v, so I assume the LVC nor the LiPo is the problem.

It's indeed a recent development. Before it was driving perfectly, then I was driving it towards me and stopped behind me (was a car passing by). Then I turned around because I wanted to drive it on the road again and I noticed the stutter. Then I immediately stopped and took it in.

The wires comming out of the motor are really stiff (a sign that's it's a 'real NEU' correct?) Just took of the motor, so I have it in front of me now. Can't see any damage on the wires what so ever. Nothing happend to it so that's what I find strange. It was just from one moment to the other.

I also have a Savage Flux so I should try to put that motor in there, no idea whether it will fit or not.

The Flux motor should fit in a truggy. It's basically the same motor except the heatsink is different. Good test.

Hi there. Well originally it didn't fit, also this Neu 1515 1y needed a small mod. I had to rais the center diff by +-2mm to get the motor to fit properly. Will take the Flux motor and and test if it will fit.

Magnet has likely seperated from the shaft- open up the endbell and take a look; you may need to remove the rotar and see of the magnet slides along the shaft/ rotates independantly when griped.

Hi Neil, thanks 4 the help!!

Just put the BLUR (HPI MMM) and two 2S LiPo's on the RC8Te. Exact same problem! But now I went outside and pressed the gass a little harder and what do you know, it drives. Slow driving is no problem but when I want to accelerate it start up again. Now I will install the Flux motor in the RC8Te (also just to test if it's fit and how it performs). But the problem seems to be isolated in the motor. Will try to open up the motor on the end.

Ok, so the Flux motor doesn't fit the truggy. I had to raise the centerdiff 2mm just to fit the Neu and that's a tight fit. But the Flux motor has a bigger diameter, the Neu (F version) is 44mm and the Flux motor is 48. Will try to open up the motor now. Will my guarantee expire by doing this?

Nope, you're fine to open it up, just be careful when you remove the rotar as the magnets are incredibly strong- it wont come out without a bit/lot of muscle, and will try to fly out of your hands when you put it back in- use pliers or mole grips.

Not saying it's a connector issue but....if it works fine with the tires in the air but not on the ground there is a big difference in the load applied to the electronics. before taking the motor apart try re soldering the bullets on the motor leads.

To late, already took the motor apart. I have the shaft in my hands and the can in the other. The shaft has some spacers on it. What should I look for now? Should I be able to move the magnets on the shaft without moving the shaft?

Will make some pictures now, so they will be up in a bit.

EDIT : So here are the pictures:

Neu 1515 1Y F 2200kv

I think its an ESC issue. I had the same thing (loaded -vs- unloaded) happen with a Novak system, and I believe they replaced the ESC to fix the issue (but my memory is short....so I'm not putting any money on that).

But that would mean that both my RC8Te and my Flux Blur Esc have the exact same problem ? Even when the Blur wasn't used since it operated flawlessly last time ? That seems unlikely to me.

I will make some pictures in daylight so the pictures are a bit better. Will also try to move the shaft within the magnets itself. Just put a pinion in, take a plier and try to turn the shaft when holding the magnets in my hand ?

What you are looking for is the shaft being able to rotate inside the magnet, or the magnet around the shaft- just grip the shaft with some pliar or molegrips on the flat spot, and try to rotate the magnet by hand; it it feels loose or slips at all, then its like I said.

I doubt its the esc, especially if the motor does the same thing on two different ones.

Unloaded, the magnet is tight enough on the shaft to spin the rest of the drive train; loaded, the shaft slips and only the magnet rotates within the motor can.

Easy test; put the truck on a bench, and observe the spur & pinion gear when you try to prevent the wheels from turning by holding the truck in place (be brave!)- if you hear the motor spinning but the pinion & shaft dont, then you know whats up...

Final test would be a different (any) Bl motor on the same escs, just to see if the truck does move when you hit the throttle.

I tried to rotate the shaft within the magnest, but that's not possible, or atleast not with ease. I put the Flux motor on the ESC and that worked perfect, but I can not mount it on the RC8Te.

If it's not the magnet slipping on the shaft I would really look at resoldering your motor connectors then, it'll take less than 10 minutes and just cost you the price of some shrink tubing to cover them back up!

I will check the 'fases' first, but need a battery for that.

With motor connectors you mean the motor stiff wire to my other wire (which was a pain in the ass to solder since the solder didn't stick properly to the original wire) or the other wire to the connectors (which go into the Esc) ?

Any good way to take the current heat shrink off without damaging the underlying wire, or just be very careful with a ''stanley''.

I think E-Revonut may have won the diagnosis award.........

Ak-me-blad!

Well, I'll shut up about the magnet :lol: :oops:

Sounds like you didnt have a hot enough iron to make a good joint, or did you shorten the original wires at all? They have a speical coating on the them, with only the last 1-2cm being bare wire; you have to scratch off the coating before you can solder to the wires properly.

I really can't take that much credit. If it wasn't for the info I've read on this forum I wouldn't have been able to diagnose this problem. Many people have had this problem, I've read it here many times. Personally only time I've had a situation like this was with a Novak esc and it was just toast!

The iron is pretty hot (touched with my fingers a couple of times :lol:). I think it's 160W, but would have to check that.

I didn't shorten the wires (but I bought it used), but like you said the last 1cm was exposed. So I would have to scratch it off and then solder..

so problem solved now or as we're speaking? :)

The special coating is only on the wires upto the last cm or so- shouldnt need to scratch off any coating if the wires were the full length, but if the previous owner shortend the wires at all... hard to say without being there to have a play with it myself. Im sure you'll get it worked out though- has the motor always been like this since you bought it, or was it just a recent problem?

Castle motors have the windings 100 percent internal... The wires coming out of the motor, are just that- wires. not part of the windings. I have found that castle solder is a pain in the ass. Nip the tip of the wires off with some dikes, and freshly tin the wire..

@ neil, I happened to have some pictures which show the wires (was not focusing on the wires so that's why they are out of focus).

Picture 1
Picture 2

@ blboy16, This is a Neu motor, not Castle. Concerning whether they are a part or not, i thought I read that they were, but not sure on that.

you are correct, i thought you had the castle version :oops:

No problem :whip: :lol:

Hmm, they dont look shortend at all. Must just be awkward solder- it should be pretty easy to do a butt joint with the new wire extensions, what kinda solder you using? Try either lead free rosin ore stuff, or the nice silver solder...

So guys, tonight I asked mom and dad where I could find a batt for my multimeter, they said they had one in the libra. So I took it out and put it in the multimeter and voila it worked. So I immediate check the fases they were all 0.3 (with the ohm @ 200). I check it with the + and - reversed also, just to make sure.

So just for the heck of it I decided to put the shaft and magnet back into the can and put the endbell on again. That I plugged it into the Esc and give it a little throttle, it seemed smooth again. So I mounted it on the RC8Te and put a pinion on it. Again with the wheels in the air it was smooth. So I put the truck on the ground and what do you guess ..............???.............................it was smooth. So I put the body on and went outside (it's 23:45, dark, little bit of raining, hardly any street light, had a t-shirt on) and drove the truck around a little, it seemed to be fine. Hopefully I will have some time tomorrow to test it a bit more to see whether it's really fine or not.

I'll keep you updated!!

Thanks all for the advise so far!!

Well thats just plain odd....

Tell me about it ... Don't have any time today, it's already dark again, it's raining and I have soccer practice in a bit. Will be learn from home tomorrow so will test it then *fingers crossed*.

wow, nice to hear its "fixed" but in the otherhand it is kinda mysterious huh...

I'm hoping with you it really turned out good afther all