Quark 80b and hacker c40 motors
 

So i bought these two setups. one for my flm rusty and one for my flm pede. bought two quark 80b controleers thinking they got to be good cause there so pricey. then i matched them with some hacker c40 motors. Well i soldered all the stuff and shrink wrapped the wires and took forever to program these things. I got some maxamps packs that are 3s 5250. Tried the pede out first with my 5000 7.4 venom lipo. the motor is a c40 5l. Its worse than my vxl setup because it stutters so much at low speed, (or do i mean cogging). once going its ok. runs for about three minutes and then shuts off. Running 76/16 gearing. Not happy with it! my Rusty stutters (coggs) like crazy! I have a c40 6t in it. with 11.1v it went no where. then the power shut down. I thought i had awsome equipment and now i will i would have got the castle esc's instead. Why am i having these cogging issues! Is it the chassis? My install? Someone help please!

I've had really good luck with the Quark 80b controller.

You need to check your settings.

Make sure start power is set to high and be sure it's set to inrunner.

Hmmmm................

Yea i did that. set for lipoy high

Can it be the Aluminum or maybe some type of wire interfearance?

Caps
 

Do you have a cap bank or some caps in your setup? There have been a few threads regarding modifications to help with cogging. Also I have a Quark 125b NIP that I am not using if you would like to move up. It is still brand new in the box. I just never got around to using it. I also have the RCM heatsink to go with it. There aren't many of them left around, but I know some people still love them.

No cap bank. I just finished this install last night. Do i need this cap bank? I read those forums also and im not sure if this is whats causing the problem. What are you looking for the 125? I dont have a use for it now but I was looking to get a 1/8 ve8 soon. Also is this a common problem with these units. my vxl did the same thing but this is worse.

I was planning to get two of those heatsinks also

Make an offer.
 

Make me an offer for the heatsink and the 125b. Shoot me a PM and lets make a deal. I am sure that someone will want it, and I am not going to use it. I have too many other ESC's at my disposal MMM, RX8, MGM 120/24, & Schulze 18/97.

As for the caps. I have not worked with the other Quark ESC's, but I am sure that some one will chime in here to help with that. The caps help to smooth out the voltage issues keeping the ESC working smoother than usual. It is a common problem. You may also check out your radio wires to make sure there are no shorts anywhere. If you are using an FM radio and receiver it may help to move up to the 2.4ghz radio gear. Coggin can also be related to the ESC in relation to the pole numbers in your motor. Some are just not compatible. Those are just some of the issues that I have read on here with cogging problems.

Jerry2kone you rule! I got an m11 2.4 radio. Everyone says that these controllers are smooth! Smoother than the mm. I have a mm and a mmm. Thought that since this was so pricy that it would put my mm to shame. My hacker motors are 2 pole motors. I'm gonna check over my wires and if I get nothing from that then I will be selling two quark 80b esc's. What is your take on these controllers. Where do they stand in your opinion?

Just here to help
 

I am just here trying to help out when I can. I purchased the 125b a while ago planning to use it in one of my SuperMaxx projects, but just never got around to it. It is the only Quark that I have, but there are a few guys around here who have used them religiously with great success. Most go through the modification process by adding the Cap bank, which as I stated helps smooth out the voltage for better startups and smoother runs. BrianG or lincpimp can probably help out where that is concerned. Just shoot one of them a PM and they will get back with you on the matter.

As for the Quark ESC I have to check what the 125b and heatsink are worth these days, but I am sure that we can work something out. As I stated earlier I have not used any of the Quarks myself. Some like them allot, and some just have bad luck with them. More than likely due to bad setups and/or poor technical skills from not doing their homework.

Electronics are always somewhat of a gamble even if your setup is right on the money. There is allot to be considered when you get involved with ESC/motor combo setups, and you have to do your research and homework to make sure you get things right the first time and do not have to learn the hard way that your installation was not done correctly. Voltage matchup, Amp draw, motor max rpm, BEC choice, gearing setup, wheel roll out, diff gear ratios, and proper battery choices should all be thought out carefully, before taking any chances with your hard earned money. I have read about allot of guys being pissed off because they could not get warranty assistance, but most of it was because they hooked things up incorrectly in haste and burned up their own setups.

Been a while since I set my Quark ESC up, but when done correctly it's still smoother than the MM. Don't get me wrong, the MM with the latest F/W is damn close to the Quark. The 80B is good for the 6T, but not the 5L. You need the 125B for the 5L motor. I have both the c40 6T(in my RC12L) and the c40 5L(was used my crt.5) I blew my 80B a while back due to my own fault, but my 125B still kicks butt in my Hyper7. I do use a external bec and Luciano's cap bank. Best go back to your settings and see what's wrong.

Before you get all wound up, check your esc to motor connections. If you are using bullet connectors, especially 4mm ones, ditch them and direct solder the wires together. I have had alot of issues with connectors between the escs and motors. Only decent connectors I have used are the giant castle creations ones.

Bar that you most likely have the lipo setting wrong. My memory is a bit rusty but there are 3 lipo settings, and I used medium and never had issues. The dynamic startup did help on a higher setting, but only with outrunners that had really high gearing on them. I had a few 80 escs, a couple of 125b and a few 65 amp escs too. And a 33 amp esc. All worked great, but I did smoke a few with extreme setups.

You know the the gentle man who sold me this setup I think told me to directly solder the esc to the motor also. As of right now, my 5l is working 80% better than my 6t setup. Is this cap bank available or do I have to build one and solder to this main board of the esc? I'm not sure this thing is worth all this hastle. What do you guys think. What are these even worth?

Castle makes some nice high current 4mm bullets, I had issues with standard 4mm bullets but after switching to the CC ones I haven't had an issue

Lutach
 

RCM member Lutach is the man to talk with about the Cap bank. He would be your best bet for that custom work. He has done a few in his time. That is the thing with R/C. Once you start working with the higher end stuff you end up spending more and more money as time goes on. Anything outside of stock is going to cost you $$$$. Let me know if you want that Quark 125b.

Now my rusty coggs allot! Like when I was running nimh packs with my mm7700 setup. When I went to lipo it stopped completely. You say that if I take off these connectors and add the castle ones my problem would deminish. I'm game to try anything that's not gonna void my warranty first. Think I might try direct soldering to eliminate any type of resistance. Thankyou everyone for all your help. Very very appreciated!

So here is what I did today. Remounted the esc to rpm mounts instead of the aluminum chassis. Soldered the esc to motor directly. Lowered the gear ratio. Set all esc settings to default. After all this, not much of a difference. I don't get it!

Got any decent lipos to test with- MA and Venom are known not to be great, may not be outputting enough juice and thats whats causing the stuttering from a standstill/ low rpms. Quark escs are nice, but, expensive for what they are and somewhat outdated even by the likes of the MMpro, or Tekins 1/10 escs etc.

If the problem is the batteries not holding voltage under the startup load, then the ESC is tripping the LVC.

Just a thought, but do you have any way of checking the voltage of the pack while it's doing this "stuttering"?

Or shutting off or lowering the LVC via programming?

Are the motors new or used? A demagnetized motor will cog like crazy until something burns up.

What happens if the throttle is applied while the car is in the air? (no load)

Good connectors are necessary for the battery to esc connection as well. One bad solder joint anyhere will cause problems.

IMO the 5l is too much motor for that esc. It wouldn't cause the cogging, but that motor can pull more amps than the esc is capable of. If you get it running watch temps closely.

With no load it will run. I resoldered all the connections again directly. I hooked my maxamps packs to the unit. Still cogging and comining to a full stop.

The 5l specs say it has a regularly low amp draw. Even max curent was under I think 50 amps.

The 5L has a low enough continuous ampdraw, but the burst is the killer. The numbers you are reading are for a helicopter and not a car.

What's the draw in my pede then?

I didn't read the whole thread, but I have a couple Quark125B's and they are pretty smooth. They do tend to run warm, but that's nothing a little modding, a couple caps, and better heatsinking can't solve. I have always been a fan of Quark because of their smooth starts, but now that Castle has tweaked their software quite a bit, I find the MM/MMM/MMPro is just as smooth as the Quark.

If you haven't already done so, I would disable the LVC completely and try it. That will eliminate any chance of the batteries dipping too low. Also, I would try different batteries as well. I'm not a huge fan of Maxamps due to their real-world performance (I speak from experience) in even a gentle setup; 4s 5Ah 20C pack in a 2WD Slash on a 2200kv motor geared for ~35mph should NOT cause the batteries to get hot. Anyway, if it still stutters, I would start suspecting the ESC.

FYI: despite the 125A rating, the Quark 125 is roughly equivalent to the Mamba Max (regular one) current-wise, so I would probably equate the 80A version closer to that of a Sidewinder, or maybe a tad more. So, if it turns out to be faulty, a MM might be a good choice for replacement as long as you are running 4s (with BEC) or lower.

If ESC replacement is in order, the Mamba Max Pro would fit that truck up VERY nicely.

It would also allow you the option to go up to 6S if you chose to do so. :yes:

Yeah, if running over 4s, the MMPro would be a better choice. But I see people selling MM ESCs all the time so it would be a relatively cheap comparable ESC.

I have tried 3 different types of batteries. All different types of gearing and different settings. I did something wrong somewhere cause both systems are doing the same thing. Absolutely nothing. Rolls and stops.

Time
 

TIME to call on someone who uses these Quarks to check them out for you. Like maybe James aka lincpimp or BrianG, or even lutach who knows more about ESC's than just about anyone.

are you SURE the motors are good? you never mentioned if you got them new or used.

Do you feel any heat on the motor or esc when this happens?

Everything was purchased new. How easy is it to destroy a motor? Thought hackers are maybe hard to break. I'd rather the esc be broke than my motors.

Hackers are excellent motors, I was just trying to troubleshoot,

I thankyou all for all your help. I sent all my stuff (motors and esc's) back to aero-model. Let me just say, those guys are determined trouble shooters. They put my setups in there own vehicles which are the same as mine. So far they are saying that the motors are pulling to much amperage. I know one of you helpful guys said the same thing. It boggles my cranium to hear that these little things pull that much current. So far i feel that these $200 esc were not right for my application.

A MMM or Rx8 will be a nice match for the motors. My old 8L C40 was pulling 180+A peak at startups, so you can only imagine what the 5L pulls.

180+:surprised: Thats just nutty! so i guess a mm pro wont do the job.

I use to pull that kinda amperage with the first generation Mamba Max. That is why it was recommended to use the Quark 125B with the 5L C40 Hacker, as that esc shared the same fets with the MM.

MM Pro should do the job...

What do you have the 5l in? How do you like it. Better than the castle motors or neu. I have a neu 1515 1.5d and that thing is ghost in my erevo.

What do you guys recomend I put in a flm pede w one inch wheel extensions, extended chassis and maxx 14mm wheels and tires?

a better transmission and axles:lol: That's a lot of weight to rotate with a little 1/10th scale car.

The hacker motors are probably alright, I'd go with a Mamba Monster Max speed control or a tekin rx8.

The matching castle creations or tekin motors to those controllers would be the ultimate setup, and run very cool and reliably.