What to do? What to do?
 

Have you ever decided on something ordered parts and then changed your mind? My indecisiveness has brought me to this point. What's your opinion on the following chassis layouts.

Idea #1

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=513

This one is pretty straight foward. Batteries one side, motor the other. Cog is just slightly to the battery side and I can keep the 6s as one whole pack giving the option of 5s capability. I will need a custom shaft for this. Motor faces foward too.

#2

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=514

This has symetry, I like symetry but it means I have to split my 6s down to 3s. Making a chassis/bracing around this will be easy and it all fits neatly in the existing footprint. I will need a custom shaft for this too.

#3

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=515

This one I guess is a standard truggy setup. Batteries next to the diff, pushing the motor further out and balancing the chassis better. I can make this work with available shafts. Downside is the motor faces backwards and it will be the hardest to make chassis/bracing around it. This one will be easiest to fit the steering servo.

What do you think? What would your decision be? Or suggestions?

I would opt for either 1 or 3. The battery may be a tad heavier than the motor, but it really has very little impact as long as they are fairly close in weight. Option 1 gives you the room to install the battery a little closer to the centerline for even closer weight distribution, just not sure if having the weight so far forward might affect jumping.

I also think #1 or #3 - but where are you putting the ESC?

BTW, what truck is that?

i agree with the above 2, #1 or #3 .Jthiessen--i think its an LST2 or one of its variations.--josh

Personally
 

Personally I like the second one. I am also a man of Symitry. I like to see things balanced and even as much as possible. Of course I am used to splitting the batts with the EMaxx setup anyway. Of course the real test will be in you trying each one out and seeing just how it handles for you and which one you like the best. Its nice that you have opitons to play with. You can always create a raised mount for the ESC and put it just about anywhere you like on any of the setups. Please share your results once you decide.

Yes it is an lst2 with a hot racing chassis. I would like to try them all Jerry and give you the results but at the rate i get things done results will be next year, lol. I am also pedantic about symetry but my soldering still needs practice so the less I have to do the better.

I too like symmetry, which is why V1 of my Hyper8 used a twin pack setup with the motor up and in the middle. But, I found the added wiring to be a PITA, not to mention more things to go wrong. A single pack setup is simply cleaner and easier to maintain IMO.

I have two buggies setup differently, one with a single battery setup and another with dual battery setup. I like the single battery setup for its simplicity and ease of operation. Balance is negligible.

I have owned a 3905 and a truggy and never over analyzed the difference between the single and twin packs because i just accepted they were different cars. This is my first self-modified car, now I have a choice!

Symmetry is so good in the minds eye but the practicality of a single pack I think wins.

Thanks for the reply guys :great:

I thought dual batts is the way to go, but I've absolutely found no difference when I used 6s on one side and a 1950/10 on the other side along with the other electrics.

I thought that was what it was, but I have never been able to find any aftermarket chassis. HR is out of the RC business now, so that explains that. What arms are on it ? They look like the adjustable Savage arms. Which bulks do you have too? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm "in the market" for aluminum parts for mine......

I bought it as a roller with all the RD-logics already fitted (arms, axle carriers, shock towers). I got the chassis off ebay. Can't remember if it was this seller....http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Losi-LST-alum...item53df72bb5f

The steering turnbuckles I have no idea but I did get a dynomite steering assembly. There's not much left on it that is stock- shocks, bulks, diff cases and a few minor plastics (I may change the skids to cf). Oh, and the body :lol:

I'm a little frustrated with progress on this, especially since I started asking questions back then. :diablo: As much as I like making stuff I don't think I will do another conversion myself for some time.

So I thought I would show you what I have so far anyway. I started with some CF angle and glued stuck them together. This will form the chassis and battery tray in one.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=716

As a result I have had to make more mods to make it all sweet (more of which to come).
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=715
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=717
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=714
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=713
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=719
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=711
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=710

Most of what is in those pics is just placed together with no screws (including where the chassis joins to the front assembly). I have shown a castle 1520 in there but I will be using a 1524 1y when I get it going. I will also fit a length of aluminium between the 2 sides as a kind of a backbone. Obviously the steering still needs to be sorted out, I have some parts on order and will need to make a top plate to mount the servo.

Final pics next year :na:

Wow,very slick setup! Are you gonna run some kind skid in between the two sides to block up the middle? Or just leave the shafts out in the open?--Josh

thats one heckava truck you got there. as what big steel says, i was also wondering if you were gonna have skids to cover up that open middle slot.
but having sum skids might cover up that sexy carbon fiber.
what i did what one of my carbon fiber chassis was to cut out a thin piece of clear plastic and screw it onto the chassis, so this way it protects the cf and you can still see the the cf.

ps. you should def. get a new body for this awesome rig.

The front skid will bear most of the nasty bumps. I was going to cut the stock skid for the rear so it just covered the screws. I've never heard of a plastic lining on CF. Do I need to worry about that? How about a thin smear of epoxy? I know the shaft will be open to all the dirt and debry (?) but I don't expect this to top the list of maintenance. This is the dogbone I plan to use-
http://xtm-dealer.com/zencart/index...._image&pID=522

Looking good.
 

Your setup is looking good. Nice to see the progress. That center dogbone looks like one of the old reliable RCALLOY production shafts?? Nice work on teh battery trays and making them an integral part of the chassis setup.

I ran this car for the first time today. Went reasonably well, not the best. Handling was good but I busted the steering twice. Initially I was concerned the 2 x 10th scale servo savers were too soft, in the dirt they worked OK. I busted a screw holding the ball end to the spindle then I bent a lower arm on one of the savers.
Here's a shot kind of showing the steering setup (note theres no screws at time of pic)
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=937

The only bit of video I took of it
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/fUciY9B7eG0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
http://youtu.be/fUciY9B7eG0

Along with fixing the steering I want to make a stronger wing mount. I didn't break it, I just don't have confidence in it.

Carnage!
 

Carnage today. I've had a reasonably good weekend, nothing special just enjoyed it. A neighbour came over for a little chit chat and I got out the car for him to buzz around. He wanted to know if the tires/wheels made much difference so I changed them from integy sq's (worn down to bald) to the stock atx's. He buzzed it a bit more then handed the control over. I don't like the handling of the atx's on the street but I guess that's no excuse for ripping my car in half. I went onto a verge and clipped a tree with the back right wheel at high speed. The main chassis continued past the tree another 10 metre's or so, the whole rear assembly flicked 7 metre's across the road perpendicular to the tree. I thought I had totally screwed the carbon chassis but when I retreived the two peices I was happy to find I had only sheared/snapped/stripped the 5 screws that secure the rear assembly.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=998
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=999
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...pictureid=1003
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...pictureid=1000
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...pictureid=1001
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...pictureid=1002
I'm thinking I'll just drill and tap the bulks for a larger screw and I'll be in business again. Just try not to do it again, the cf might not hold for larger screws, it went with quite a thump :lol: