Once it was the most Lincpimp muggy of them all
 

so i finished up the muggy i bought from lincpimp. (thanks lincpimp)

you came for the muggy porn so we will start with that

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSCN1471.jpg

died a set of maximizer bead locks Orange and threw a set of proline badlands on them.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSCN1472.jpg

blazin the cat isnt impressed

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSCN1475.jpg

Castle 1717, MMM and 5cell 5200mah lipo,spektrum receiver and HS7955TG servo

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSCN1476.jpg

so far I'm pretty happy with the muggy, at almost 13lbs its a pig but it handles surprisingly well, reducing the wire length and gearing down to 16/46 helped the MMM temps but the lipo still isn't so happy......... time for a new Hyperion 45c 6cell.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSCN1477.jpg

i got the carbon fiber single servo kit from xtreme carbon and i have to say the fitment is pretty bad, 3 part were off so bad there was no way i could have made them fit and i had to dremal 2 others so my advise is DO NOT BUY . it wasnt worth the $25 i paid for it at amain on clearance.

Sexy, I like it. Nice to see my esc mount being used! What did you think of my fabbed parts? Total crap or somewhat useable?

useable for sure, i didn't see any reason to remove something that worked well, I'm even using the slot under the battery tray for the wire

Very nice...

What do you think of the Maximizer beadlocks? I posted a thread asking about them and the general consensus was they are a PITA.

they can be a pain in the ass if you arent used to beadlocks, you have to use all the suplyed rings when useing badlands and thats where alot of people run into problems, the just use 1 per wheel because it can be hard to put together with 2 the first time, if you dont the the tires wont stay in the bead unless you are useing a nitro motor:lol:

so far my openion is i like them, they are holding up great on 5cell geared for 45-50mph, i have ran 5 packs threw the truck when them without any problems.

ever since i got a rock crawler i have liked beadlocks,i can change out all 4 tires in 30min

Were those black before you dyed them? I've got a couple new sets that I might try the dying thing on.

BTW, nice job! Is that a Hard Anodized chassis (doesn't look like it).

I don't think the black would take on colors very well. I would guess they were white.

My thought too - just haven't seen any white ones (haven't looked either:intello:)

thanks


its just the stock chassis for now, its in ok shape, hopefuly it will last untill i move to the next faze of this project.

the maximizers started as white

Make sure you balance those beadlocks, I have the same setup and they required quite a bit of weight to run smooth. Balancing tires is the best thing you can do to an rc. I can imagine the shocks, hingepins and bearings last longer.

What kind of balancing material do you use? Putty? Clay? Something else?

I like stick on lead tape, available from golf shops, carries more weight that putty/clay.

i agree

my balanceing is alittle crude, i have a home made ballancer useing an 8mm rod with a 17mm hex adapter and a prop balancer. i use tamiya wheel balanceing putty.

i even weight matched the wheels before balanceing, im a racer first basher second, my buddy give me alot of shit about it. i always have to shim everything to perfection and weigh and balance everything before i run it lol

I use stick on wheel weights for full size cars. Just trim them down to 1/16 oz pieces. After I get them balanced I cover the sides in hot glue. Have not had one come off yet!

thats not a bad idea


how often do you rebalance them?

i redo mine when there is about 50-60% left

I check them but they stay in reasonable balance, at least for my tastes. I did a test by balancing the wheels on one side and leaving the other side unbalanced. At 45mph the unbalanced side was coming off the ground, it was vibrating that bad. No wonder I am so good at controlling these things, I ran at least 2yrs without balancing!!! One wrap of lightweight duct tape on the tire also does wonders for ballooning.

I've dyed the bright yellow Proline's orange before. If you use Scarlett (red) dye and let them soak for literally 2-3 min tops, they come out orange. I've also used Sunset Orange Dye too, and let them soak for a really long time, and they are as orange as the ones I soaked in red for a couple minutes.

However, the downside with anything dyed, is that if the rims get scratched at all, you can almost always see the orig color because the dye doesn't fully penetrate the rim.

Also.. if you use Royal Blue dye over the yellow rims... and let them soak for 2-3 minutes, they'll turn a really cool color of green. But soak them too long and they will start to turn blue. I've dyed many yellow rims primary colors like Red, Blue, Orange, Green, and even Black, just as easy as i have white rims.

What motormount are you using? I ordered a 1717 and was going to go with mikes mount, but read about fit issues with the big can.

Order the heli version, it has flat sides and should allow much easier installation.

its the rc monster motor mount

the smallest gearing i could get to mesh nicely was 18/44

you can gear lower if you space the diff up alittle and go with a larger spur, with spacers you can run as low as 17/50

i really like the 1717 in the muggy............the muggy diffs are takeing quite a beating, between the heavy beadlocks and my driveing it alot hard i keep brakeing the pins.

my diffs are currently set up 7k/30k/3k

Ok cool i ordered mikes mount and should have all my stuff by monday. My muggy is pretty much all stock except for a 50t spur. Im debating running the stock tires or throughing on some 17mm adapters and running maxx sized tires and rims i also have.