New E guy
 

Ive been lurking awhile and figured i would post something..Three months ago i was strictly nitro,but i moved and have new neighbors...blabla..So i figured i would give bl a try..So i built a xxl from parts off of flebay (was a real fun build)

http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/q...103112030a.jpg...Im running the mmm combo on 4s..

One run and im hooked..I never knew first hand what bl power was..WOW..The initial investment is a lil steep,but then..there's no fuel to buy..Anyway im onto my second build or conversion..Sc8 Im going the ae conversion w/mmm combo again..Anyone have any suggestions please let me know..Chris
http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/q...9/DSC06963.jpg

Keep your nitro motors, they make a good soldering iron stand if you take the glow plug out :-)

EDIT: and buy yourself a better beer, you've stepped up a class in life :lol:

Come on man Nattys are cheap and very delicious..:drunk:

I would suggest (actually) that a good external BEC (battery eliminator circuit) will improve the speed/torque of your servo's, and taping tires is an art form (keeps the tires from ballooning).

Yah nattys work, but it was more of a welcoming jab :-)

get used to jabs around here...seems like you can't post anything innocently without being poked all over...kind of arousing if you ask me...:whip: haha.

Once you go you brushless you don't go back! welcome aboard, rigs look nice.

I hear ya..nattys suck but we like drink beer..lol...bec??I run the mmm combo in my xxl w/two airtronics 144oz per servo and i have no problems...

Problems no, but an external BEC gives you the ability to up the voltage from 5v to 7.5v that's a noticeable difference. I run my servos at 6.5v and I get a drop to ~6v under load. If you start at 5v and twist up those servos your really not getting everything you can out of them.

A Bec is a Battery Elimator Circuit.

Castle Creations makes a great programmable Bec.

Gotta remember here............we're dealing with a Nitro guy new to the brushless scene. LOL

Welcome aboard.

welcome to the dark side

Sikes, I put "battery eliminator circuit" in my first post about using a BEC :-) a quick google search would explain exactly what that is :-)

I do realize he's new, but I see he's already completed a conversion, he's smart enough to have used Castle products to do it, and now he's posting on RCM. Puts him a few steps up from nitro in my book, figured he'd figure out the BEC thing...

He's had great guidance during his electric conversion :whistle:

If you don't already have the AE conversion I would skip it and use a RC-Monster motor mount and battery tray. I've heard from some that the 15xx series motors don't fit on the AE mount that well, as in you need to put some spacers under the mount and front CD mount in order for the motor to clear the chassis

Welcome aboard.
 

WELCOME ABOARD Chris. And welcome to the power of brushless. Yes a lot has changed over the last few years in battery, motor, and ESC technology, and from our point of view is superior to nitro not just because there is no fuel to mess with or tuning to deal with, but also because of the instant punch the BL gives you and the overall smoothness in operation. You have come to the right place for information, knowledge, and techniques in BL setups, and conversions. RCM is the best source of that and products to help with most conversions.

We do like to have fun in here on RCM and taking jabs at each other is just part of the atmosphere in here with some of the characters lurking about. But we also have some of the smartest and most experienced BL guys in the hobby here. Have fun and good luck with your quest for brushless power.

Thanks for the welcome guys!!!....I'm on another forum that bondo is also on and he's been my e-adviser.Thanks bnutz..

I already picked up the ae conversion...Anyone know how these diffs hold up to bl???
also anyone know where i can pick up a mmm combo cheap???LOL

The diffs hold up very well! Just keep an eye on the bearings and play in the diff cases. I started to ruin one diff because either the bearing got sloppy or where the bearing sits in the diff housing got some play in, still haven't pulled that apart to see which it was, I had spares so I just replaced the whole unit

You could save some money by getting a motor from Castles sale and them PU a ESC used from someone ?

What do you guys think of the 1717-1580 in the sc8???..Its cheap now...

I know a few guys that are using them in lst based truck....bondo,bryan..hmmm

The 1518 would be a great choice, IMO the 1717 is too heavy for any kind of race application especially when running 4s. The 1518 is still more than you'll need but will def run cool and be plenty powerful, you'll just need to gear up a bit more to get the speed you want.

Just guessing the spur tooth count at 45

Differential Ratio: 4.3
Transmission Ratio: 1
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 45
Pinion Tooth Count: 20
Total Voltage: 14.80
Motor KV: 1800
Tire Diameter (inches): 4.5
Tire Ballooning (inches): .10
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor Coil Resistance: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.25 : 1
Total Ratio: 9.675 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 14.77 inches (375.04 mm)
Rollout: 1.53:1
Total Motor Speed: 26640 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 38.5 mph (61.85 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 1800
KT constant: 0.75 oz-in/A
Motor Torque: Amperage not specified...
Final Torque: Amperage not specified...
Final Power: Amperage not specified...

I haven't even check the spur out,but i think it is 45t stock..think.....Thats good news that motor is only 70bucks!!!!!!..Thanks bnutz!!!!

Uh oh... Bondo on another forum? That poor forum, at least they know how we feel now..

Oh, and take it from me, you might wanna stray away from "lincpimp" and Harold... "_paralyzed" those two can turn a innocent thread into a.. well, nevermind.

As far as your question goes..
Not sure if you've checked out BrianG's webpage out yet, but it's quite...magical.

http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/index.html

Have fun setting up your gearing, and welcome to the forum!

Welcome to the forum. Very nice xxl. I'm curious, did you keep the 2 speed on it? As far as the 1717 in the SC8, you might have a problem with it fitting. I'm not sure about the motor hitting the chassis as Jerry2Kone was mentioning, but clearance to the chassis brace can be an issue depending on gearing. At least it was on my AE converted RC8 with my 1515 motor and the 1717 is a larger diameter. Then again I love the challenge of stuffing overkill into something it wasn't designed for as do most around here!

Nope i went with the dudes one speed set up..Next is the dudes mount...

http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/q...picture-21.jpg

The only thing that sucks about the dudes mount is you cant use the gear cover with it

Bryan modded his to work

Whats wrong with the losi mount?

Welcome to RCM.

Nice LST.

Can't wait to see the Associated up and running.

Nothing at all I just want the td mount to go w/the hub

And reno911 you and me both brother!!!!

Chris, how much do u think it cost u to build the xxl without the electronics?? im thinking of buying a roller or building one whatever will be cheaper... what do u think??

I bought all the part of fleaybay chop shops..so it cost me around 150. It took me about a month to gather all parts..I always tried to buy multiple items from one buyer to save on shipping..Funny im actually going to build another xxl for a buddy so build 2 is coming soon,just waiting on parts to come in...lol

Nice looking truck 8-)

OK thanks I will be doing that this summer were the TiNi parts the most expencive??

I'm also looking on the bay smart way to build thank you

Anyone run these?..I think there xtreme something something mud shields ..Got em on clearance from lhs for a buck..Im quite positive they should bolt the other way,but ahh good enough

http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/q...0111111417.jpg
http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/q...0111111438.jpg

Im not sure if those are mud "shields", but more of a mud scraper for the inside of the wheels. Pretty good idea actually.

Sorry to bring up "older" threads,but some progress..I went w/the mmm combo again..some say overkill,some say perfect,,we'll see...So here she is all dressed up and no where to go.



http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/q...9/DSC07015.jpg

My 1987 Sears soldering iron crapped finally...So i need a good soldering station,i was looking at the Hakkos and the team check point ones..What's the consensus on a good valued charger???..I wanna spend a buck maybe buck n half...Cheers

Lookin good !

The Hako 936 is a very popular and excellent station for around a $100.00 or less, seach the forum for threads on this topic. Lots of good reading availible on this.

Over powered a tick for the track, for bashing you'll be very happy.

ballooning
 

i ran gorilla tape on the inside of my tires before gluing them up , 0 balloning whatsoever:no:

Chris, You PM at LST Forum.

I bet AussieDutch loves your avatar :lol:

Hakko 936
 

Go with the Hakko 936. You won't be disappointed. I picked one up two years ago on recommendations from others in here and I am really happy with the performance of it. Make sure that you acquire the right solder for the type of work you are planning on doing, and use a good flux paste to make sure that your solder joints are clean and without defects. Good luck with your choice.

One quick question..I mounted the mmm2200 with the associated mount,but it looks to me like its sitting straight up on the chassis...Should i use that funky 2 sided tape under it? Or what do you guys use??..I searched really couldn't find an answer...

Oh JERRY2 I went w/the 936 It was right in the budget!!!..Thanks for the heads up guys....:smile: