new to brushless
 

i get a emaxx planning on buying Warrior 9920 Brushless Car Controller, Strobe Slipper Kit w/Bearings, Nylon 51 tooth spur gear - Ofna , Feigao 540C XL Brushless Motors, and get UE 6 spider diff, front and back cvds, center cvds, what should the gearing be.

Welcome to the forum.
You may get the steel idlers to if you don't have them.
I don't know how many batteries you running.
The tire size helps to.

12 cells and the stock tires

or these tires RD Logics pre-mounted "maxx" size tire and wheel combo - studs

I would go with a 18 51 gearing. If you want more speed you could go 20 51. I am not sure the motor mount you using or what fits right off. The rd logic are pretty nice. I had some for little while. I had the mulcher look a likes.

stock motor mount

where can i buy the 18 or 20 pinion rcmonster is out of stock

I would email mike. He has some in sometime but not always in stock on the store. He does that to cover the email orders he gets. You could run a 16 but it may not give you the speed you want. It will still be faster than stock cause that is geared close to stock. The 9xl turns more rpm per volt than stock.

how about this motor BK Electronics Wanderer "XL" Brushless Motor with the 10xl wind or the 12xl wind

The 10xl is little slower than the 9xl. But would give some better run time.

And if you buy the XL, you might consider taking 23mm rimms for a more durable solution..

the 14mm are should be fine i run proline roadrage on my fg 1/5 monster and they have been good. i just ordered everything i needed bought the ue diffs bought ue drive shaft front and rear and the motor contoller everything for a total of $800 cad. i will almost have a full supermaxx

I ruined quite a few, they didn't came up with those 23mm for nothing.. 14mm simple is way to small for a monstertruck.. With aluminum rims it would hold up fine, but with plastic and brushless, they are a big nono.. especially with weaker rimms.

with this set up what would you guys say is "gotta have" in regards to the drive line, I have MIP CVD's (FR/RR) now. also I am looking at getting the FLM extended chassis.
this controller will handle 16 cells yes? I am looking at running 2 x 8packs of GP 4300's

The cvds are a good idea. The steel idlers are a must in the trans.
A strobe slipper would be good as well for gearing about a 16 tooth pinion give or take a few teeth for tire size.
The stock diffs hold up ok if you run the aluminum diff cups.
The best is the 1/8 diffs. 23mm hexes are good as well unless you got the aluminum rims.

I was looking at using these tires from IMEXrc

K-Rock Tires
Height: 6.50"
Width: 3.5"
Diameter: 3.2"

For that size tire you would need good diffs like the 1/8. Not only that but the oil in them helps with slip to. I would go for a14 51 gearing with the 1/8 diffs. Just my suggestion for keep the maintance and breakage down.

One thing I see very wrong is your choice of batteries. The new GP's arent worth a damn so i've heard. I know for a fact that you'll like the IB 4200's as I have some myself. I have hear numberous things about the GP's not holding there voltage under load. The IB's are no doubt the way to go.

Thanks everyone.
coolhand. do you have a link the diffs you are talking about?
Squee: thanks, i will check intot he IB's, they should not be too much more should they?

Mike has some in the store they are hot bodies diffs. Don't get the pro cause it has a lower diff ratio. http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...GY_DIFF&cat=47
These would be great to put them in. http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...LM18700&cat=47
You can get these from mike as well. If you want to keep your bulkheads you have. http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...ore/13540.html
or a stronger one http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...re/13540B.html

so, if i went with those particular tires, i would need that set up. but just the controller and motor, i would be fine with just the CVD's for now? Limited budget so i have to do this in phases...sux:019:

Well you can run the stock diffs but they won't last for ever. I like big tires as well. They are hard on drive line though.

your going to need mod 1 pinions.

They are talking about differentials...


The stocks may last a bit, but like CHC said, they wont last forever. Even a aluminum cup properly shimmed with aluminum diff cases should last atleast a year or so. A perfectly shimmed stock diff will last longer than a unproperly shimmed aluminum diffs.