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SC10 4x4 ...Finally
http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/i...1/e3d5ff59.jpg
Will be posting build info and pictures as soon as I get started |
So, where did you get it?
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Nice, I was beginning to think Associated wanted to do the Durango-dance.
Announcing it and then delaying it over and over again for a few years:rofl: What motor and ESC are you going to use? And make shure to tell us what this thing weighs when it's ready to go! I'm still not shure if I even want to consider getting one looking at the positioning of the receiver box. I mean, it sits right in between the ESC and the motor with battery wires running right next to it or even over it. If you start from scratch, why even risk that remote chance of interference with the radio equipment? Why lead the motor wires over the radio box? So they are always in the way when you want to get to your receiver? Can't see the benefit of that either. Why not put the receiver box closer to the servo? So I don't have to use servo wire extensions with servos that have short wires, like Asso's very own DS-1015. I mean, yeah, it's just the receiver box. But makes me wonder, what other strange design decisions they made on that truck... |
CRC raceway in Rome, NY (one of the tracks I race at) got a shipment in today.
It will have a Spektrum rx, MMpro esc, and a 1410 1y CC/Neu motor. |
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Any naked pics
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Subscribed
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I just looked at some pics of the truck. My only initial concern is the size of the battery compartment. Looks as though battery choices will be somewhat limited. I also hate belt drive vehicles. I had one awhile back and it soured me completely. I have always loved associated products....may have to rescind my no r/c purchases until after Sept......:whistle:c and try another belt driven truck
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@Magman,
Brian, I'll bet since AE uses and pushes Reedy Lipos that they fit in the SC4x4 tray with out a prob, with that being said most lipos on the market will also. I'm curious of the beltdrive myself with it being a offroad RC, no way to totally seal that belt off from the debris ? Other than the belt I'm liking everything but kinda dismayed to see the motor wires over the RX box. |
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As for battery size, I'm sure any roar approved 2s lipo will fit and since I have a couple for racing and that's my plan for this I'm sure I'll be fine for lipos. The belt looks like it should hold up just fine. In reality the majority of the stress is still going to be taken on by the rear so the belt should be just fine. The whole belt system also looks to be pretty well sealed from debris, there's no gasket so I'm sure dust will get to it but that's it. I'll have more pictures up by morning, I took a bunch of pictures as I pulled everything out of the box. I only had time to get the steering assembled before I had to go make some money. I plan on tackling most of it tonight when I get home about 11:30pm eastern time |
Jang came out with a pretty good build video series for people asking questions :)
Looks really nice to me, great construction. Battery placement is my concern, but you'd just need a 2S lipo with the bullet outputs on it. Easy enough. |
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I also do not like the motor wires that close to the rx box...can you say interference? |
Im not sure why everyone is so concerned about the wires over the rx box, i never need to open any of mine up unless im swapping out a radio system. And if you are worried about interference, have you had a 2.4 system glitch before? I have not. Also why the dissing on the belt drive? I had a losi xxx4 and it never failed me.
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I have my Rx antennae going right through my motor wires on my savage (holds the tube down a little extra). I was a little worried at first, but I've never had a problem with it. I can drive far enough away that it's hard to tell which way is forward.
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Waiting for photos to upload to photobucket, I'll post a couple and the link to the whole album. This is my first actual build from a kit. My RC8T was complete when I bought it but I had to tair it apart to convert it to brushless.
The build took me 6 hours, only thing that isn't done is the body. There where no major issues with the build, for that matter the only issues where my own! I do have a gripe about the instructions though. Although the build is in alpha order of the bags of parts it'd be nice for them to tell you what bag your working on. Also I wish there was a 1:1 referece in the of the screw size in the instructions. When you open a bag for a step and there are 5 different size screws and some are only 1mm apart it gets screwy! The only issue I had was that I accidentally did the shock towers in the wrong order, grabbed the wrong bag and didn't know it. The rear tower will almost work on the front and it took me about an extra 10 minutes of messing around to figure out that I messed up. Fit and finish is awesome and the truck look like a tank!!! This truck reminded me of a 1/8 buggy as I was building it. The parts are all pretty good size for 1/10 scale. The shocks, diffs, and some of the front suspension all came pre-built. The diffs actually had silicone oil in them rather than grease. However they weren't very full so I added some 5k to the front and 3k to the rear. The suspension arms are not side specific, a quick flip and they'll work on either side which is very nice for spares, they are different front and rear though. There was some thinking ahead done with this truck. There are lower body mounts that look like they'll be used for an under tray and there are spots on the A-arms that look to be for a sway bar kit. One question I was dying to find out was if the body was any different than a base 2wd SC10 for mounting purposes. A 2wd SC10 body does fit, it's not a perfect fit without a little trimming but easily workable, just a little trimming for the front bumper. The post holes are off just a touch but the body easily flexes enough to acomidate that and after trimming for the front bumper it may fit perfect. It's nice to be able to use the bodies I already have. I took it out for a quick test drive and was pretty happy, not that I could do much at 2:45AM though. Setup: MMPro esc, 1410 1y CC/Neu motor from the sidewinder SCT combo (I may even give the sidewinder esc a try and save the MMPro), Hitec 7955TG steering servo. Kit comes with two spur gears to give you the option of 48 or 32 pitch. I'm using 48 pitch for now because I have a wide selection of pinions to use and I know that with a properly setup gear mesh I'll be fine. My base gearing is the stock 93t spur and a 21t pinion and I'm using the optional gearing to give front overdrive. Pictures to follow |
sounds like a cool truck. Kind of a bummer that some of the stuff came pre built though. shocks and diffs are my favorite part to build!
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I also had a XXX4 always got dirt/sand in the belt drive compartment from the clay track, did it cause failures, No. But made me worry and was a PITA to clean when needed. @ E-Revo, I'm happy to see the parts are looking very beefy ! Sad to see a partilaly built "kit" they rob you of all the fun :no: So the diffs are viscus and geared, thats excellent news. I thought they'd be ball diffs. The vicus diffs are tougher and easier to tune IMO. FYI, with running that servo a BEC may be needed if the RX cuts out, the MMP's are noted to have probs feeding high torq servo's. Excellent pics and look forward to hearing a track report ! |
I'm aware of the weak bec, I put a Savox 1258 in my 2wd sc10 and te bec couldn't even power it up. I've only done a quick pass so far but the bec seems to have no problem. Not like there's much of a load on the servo
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Got to run the truck for awhile now, about 10 minutes of hard running on blacktop. I'm running a set if stock slash wheels so I don't destroy my new tires or race tires. I used the speed calculator and my gearing puts me about 35 mph, but the truck seemed like it was doing closer to 40. I need to play with the slipper and the front clicker to get it the way I want it but it wasn't a bad start, slipper is a little loose and the front clicker is a little tight. The truck handled great and was very stable. I like the slight over drive on the front as it allows it to pull out of a turn better. The truck wouldn't flip! I thought with a little higher cg it might flip on blacktop but nope, it spun out but wouldn't flip. The motor was 109* at the hottest point I could find, esc was 89*, and I didn't bother with the lipo cause it wasn't even warm. The bec didn't have any issues keeping it all powered up.
Overall I'm very happy with the truck, can't wait to see it on the track now. I can almost see myself selling my MT and getting another one to bash with. |
Do you have a scale, can you post RTR weight plz.
THX |
Sorry, no scale but I will get it weighed tomorrow or this weekend
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I guess it'll be somewhere arround 2.8kg.
Can't wait to get my RCM SCRT10 finished and see where it'll weigh in. |
I got my last final tomorrow morning, then im picking up my sc10 4x4 tomorrow afternoon. Truck looks good! ill be running a tekin scx 4.5t with a rx8 and ds1015 servo.
Ill also be running 17mm hubs and DE racing 17mm sc wheels. Gonna be a long night tomorrow and should prolly be working on my crawler instead but hey new truck is new truck. |
What 17mm hubs are you going to use?
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wow, I love the look of AE kits! Hopefully they will make a 4wd buggy or truggy version of it and I would consider buying one.
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since the axles are 6mm i figure the old maxx or revo adapters will fit with little to no mods.
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Guess that could work, if you get to it take a picture of how far away from the bearing the hole for the drive pin is. Maybe the 17mm Tekno hexes for the Slash 4x4 M6 shafts fit, if the stock TRX hexes need too much grinding.
But I would be surprised if there won't be AKA adapters coming out in the near future, so we get a bolt on solution that has the propper offset as well. |
the teckno m6 17mm definetly dont fit, i run those on my slash 4x4. if nothing else i have some old new-era 17mm adapters that i can drill to fit. they are the correct offset also. those would forsure fit.
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Done some more testing today. Ran it with the Eagle Tree, max amp draw was 80amps.
My one concern when building this was the clicker for the front and my testing so far confirmed this was a concern. I originally had it locked up but tried loosening it a little to get less front brake, decided I didn't like it and tightened it back up. However I didn't bottom out the spring when I tightened it up, just until it stopped clicking and then a little more. I just came in because I lost front wheel drive, thought that I stripped a diff cause the clicker is only supposed to let it slip under braking....WRONG! The plastic teeth where half stripped and allowed it to slip even under acceleration. A little CA took care of this though. |
By by clicker. How long can those little plastic teeth last anyways. That sucks, Mike needs to make a metal one.
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mine with all the power you can put in it tekin 4.5 and hyperion G3 2s 6500vx.
I still gotta rebuild the shocks, put an esc in there. prolly a mmp for right now (keep my spare rx8 as my spare), put my 17mm hubs on, and then i gotta break it in. http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...91_42821_n.jpg |
well the revo 17mm adapters are bust these are the NewEra ones i had,
http://www.neweramodels.com/jpeg/ter1171203380072.jpg i KNOW these will work when drilled out to 6mm and the wont get sloppy becasue you still use the stock axle nut to pinch them. But stupid me i either gave mine away i guess because i cannot find them for the life of me........ been looking for hours. |
or i could use these http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=flm21160 but i really like all my cars having the same wheel wrench.
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found another option, these are Proline 17mm rear adpaters for their Protrac 2wd setup, these will garuntee the offset is correct but they still need drilled to 6mm (no big deal).
http://www.gshobby.com/images/Proline/PRO606403-450.jpg local shop has these instock so i may grab these up if i never find my new era ones i had. |
Just sent a request to AKA if/when there will be adapters for the sc10 4x4.
Reply pending... Maybe wo should get Mike to make them, he surely could react a lot faster than the bigger companies. |
Why does the 4x4 instruction book only specify motors by turn count? The 2wd book had both kv and turns? Feels like they are pushing crappy 6 minute ROAR motors for this thing.
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i gotta say that that tekin scx4 4.5t (about 5000kv) on that big hyperion 2s is a NASTY combo ,its as fast as any of my 8th scales, runs stone cold, and i can run 12-13 at race pace on our big track on a little track ive ran it for 30+ on one pack. Definetly a setup to look into!
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How do you think the sc10 handles compared a SCRT or SCTE?
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