4092 E-Muggy
 

The 1717 propels a truggy/muggy to greatness.
The question that arose is would the Leopard 4092 3d
be to long for the muggy Chassis?

I would have measured a 1717 but don't have access to one that big.

I mostly run 6s but in my last trade that netted me a couple 2s lipos to wire for 4s

I am curious as my second Muggy roller should be arriving here shortly to start my Conversion on...
Any help would be great for ideas .

I have had a couple stupid E-revos and fluxes
but have since decided to sell the arsenal and start over as boredom was kicking in.

The 4092 will fit in a Muggy.

Thank you, That's what i wanted to know.
Now i just have to wait till my roller shows up
and decide on what route to take...

I assume the weight is similar to a 1717 already so that shouldn't be much of a concern...

Anyone had experience with the 4092 on how they run?

My 4065 has been great in my buggy, so I'd guess the 4092 would work very well in a Muggy.

If you want something a little longer still, I happen to know that a 1527 will fit in the Muggy :wink:

would the 1527 1d work
or would i have to step down to the 1.5d?

Ill have to search the tube for vids on the 1527 in comparable trucks...

Edit...
never mind looks like there 8mm shaft

what about the .5y?
err looks like i can get a 5mm in the 1.5d

Ill be watching this since im wanting to put the same motor in my truck.

I am just curious about the muggy.
I curious to see how it turns out.

If you don't have them already, aluminum diff cases will be very important. I broke the collar off the plastic one in the rear of my muggy with a 1518 and 6s.

I think 1y (1250kv) would work well on 6s:

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...u-1527&cat=117

My 1518 is 1250kv and it runs good. Isnt the max rpm on the 4092 motors 30k?

I will look into the diff cases

This is going to be my winter project as i am thinking about
putting paddles and ski's on my Wifes Rustler for winter...

30k is more or less for boaters.
I believe the rpm is still maxed out at 60k.
someone please correct me if i am wrong...

On a street/basher basis i try not to push the max rpm's anyhow as i would rather have reserve power if need be...

But i look at things as you can never have enough power and build to support the power you plan on running...

i also saw something about a max rpm of 30/35k and i dont know where, but why could it be bearings or rotor size. the 1717 is rated for 45k why not 60k? like the 1518 ind 1520

Good new and Bad news has arrived today.

Good news I received my Muggy roller today.
Bad news Looks like i received it from team hack job...

With the chassis's present condition i believe it is a useless chassis
so i will have to upgrade chassis's

So that leaves me sitting at my original idea of the 4092

Loading pics as i type...

I present to you a hacked muggy roller...:grrrrrr:
for $135 shipped i am still in debate on whether or not i payed to much from rcu...

http://s1223.photobucket.com/albums/...uggy%20Roller/

That chassis does look pretty bad. I have a spare that hasn't been hacked on, but it is slightly bent. I've straightened worse. If you want it, you can have it for the cost to ship.

I noticed you're in WI, where about? I live a bit north of Milwaukee.

-JB

I am not to familiar with trying to straighten a chassis but it would be worth a shot.
How bad is it bent? If possible could you send me a couple pics?

Where about's north of Milwaukee?
I live around the Manitowoc area, about an hourish north of Milwaukee.

I could just meet you somewhere to pick it up as well,
I may also be heading down to Lake Geneva here shortly anyhow so i could pick it up on the way down to...

If he doesn't want that chassis ill take it!

Some Muggy love.
Pics of my shelf queen to tide the thread over till i get some more of my parts that i ordered...


http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...n/DSC04058.jpg

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...n/DSC04059.jpg

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...n/DSC04060.jpg

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...n/DSC04061.jpg

so shiney and clean

Have you ever even driven this thing?

Nope, Everything is brand new.
This is my Shelf Queen...

But its no fun to just look at it on the shelf!

Its to nice to get it dirty. :tongue:

It is so hard to not run them though.
I guess easier if got another one just like it though.
Don't forget to wax it every once in a while.

I wash and wax enough things the way it is:lol: from Cars to Sub Cabinets to Collector pool cues. It probably don't help i am a detailer by trade...

Lot easier if you have another one, That's why i had to buy a second to keep thoughts of running the first at bay...

I'm a boater and I laugh derisively at any motor that maxes out at 30k RPM "ah aha ahaha aha", even my submerged drive mini ECO boat spins at over 35k.

An addition has shown up last night:yipi:

Now i can start mocking everything up using an existing chassis and see how i want things to go for now.

I am eventually going to do an innovative chassis, and the 4092 which i am set on now...

Some plans came to a abrupt hault for a short time as my car has decided it was easier to short out its ignition distribution system and a couple relays attached to it instead of distributing its electrical power to my Command center and heating system...:grrrrrr:

:yipi::yipi::yipi:I got most everything Cleaned installed and mocked up, I have a few other things to do.

1 I have to figure out what to do for a batt tray if i want to possible fab one up or buy one from somewhere.

2 Servo setup i have to finish, I also want to switch out most of the turnbuckles and a few other things with the steering components.
Have to search on what to use for that.

3 look at different rods for bracing setup as i would like to use four rod style braces.
Have to search on what i can use there as well, I seen it somewhere around here...

4 Find me a mod one pinion, try to narrow it down to 3 pinions prefer 2 if i decide to ever run 4s lipo

5 I currently weight in at 9lbs with a MMM 2200kv With no E.S.C. and a couple missing parts and Batts.
I just want to find some carbon fiber pieces to possible lighten it up a hair.

I think that pretty much takes care of most everything
if there is anything else anyone can think of please feel free to let me know, Or if there is a better way on doing something...
[IMG]http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...h_DSC04107.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...h_DSC04108.jpg[/IMG]

For now i present to you more pics...
http://s1223.photobucket.com/albums/...uggy%20Roller/

Looks good! I had the 4 link chassis brace setup but i didnt like it. The plastic ends kept popping off and i felt that it didn't provide too much bracing either.

That's what i was kind of worried about,
But that can always be changed by grabbing some longer threaded rod and throw on some closed ends...

I wasn't sure of much else for a brace that could be made to look factory.
The Angle piece would do it, but it would take away from a clean look in my opinion.

My mockup should be finished in a few days besides screwing everything together.
I can then look at the setup to see what i could do for a brace, as i could incorporate the brace on one of the Innovative or Losi hd chassis's if i feel the need to.

I am always open for ideas

Rc monster for the battery tray, motor mount and pinions

For braceing you Can get 12" of 1/8th cf from mcmaster for $30. Create a custom top plate the length of the chassis.

Yep i got the Motor mount from here, that's been installed already.
Im fabbing up everything else, ill have to look into the cf in one of my final stages when i decide to get a chassis.

My mockup on my chassis will give me an idea of what else i need to do if anything when i finally decide to grab a chassis...

I am stuck between a chassis or the 4092 as my next step after my mockup is tested and complete...

go with the motor I say, as its not a given your going to bend the stocker.

And save up to buy a tray from mike.

They are pretty cheap ESP if you use the CRT.5 one.

i built my tray out of 2mm aluminum, to try and add rigidity to the chassis.

I have my brace figured out, which is also going to serve as my spacer for my battery tray along with my esc tray, so i should be good there as i am going to be using the idea of aluminum angle running most of the length of the chassis so that should stiffen it up quite a bit.

The only thing i am worried about is the big gap that has been dremeled out by the other idiot, the brace will run directly across the gap so it shouldn't be that big of a deal...

When its done its should have an extremely clean look to it,
i may not even need the 4link brace setup.

Does anyone know how to fill excessive gaps in a chassis?:neutral:
That would clean the bottom up.
I was thinking J.B. weld but am not sure on how to fill the gap with it unless i put a thin aluminum plate on the top of the chassis to give it something to ad-hear too.

That is true, guess ill have to see how bad my chassis performs when finished,
then go from there.




You work in the sales field by chance?:mdr:

Just for sh#$'s and giggles will a 56mm motor fit:gasp: with the RC monster mount or will i have to shim the center diff mount?

If i have to shim can i just use some stainless steel washers?
or should i use dedicated spacers of some sort?

or is it just plain overkill?

You could shim to clear the chassis with the motor - but you would have a very difficult time getting a reasonable pinion gear to mesh with the spur - so yes, I'd say that 56mm diameter is too much for a Muggy.

Edit: also mounting holes are spaced too wide for standard motor mounts.

I use a piece of metal like the channel you mentioned and it does kind of take away from the look but i dont care because the body covers it up. But that kind of brace does work really well.