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-   -   Hyper 7 conversion (pics) (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3104)

fishmasterdan 05.13.2006 12:01 PM

Hyper 7 conversion (pics)
 
Ok I had a heck of a time finding info and pictures to do a good conversion so I dove in and did what I wanted. It turned out pretty good.
I am going to the track today and see how it is for durability.

Specs.
9920 controller
8xl wanderer motor
XL heat sink
4s li ion 6000 mah (need to get pics of the battery)
emaxx plate for motor motor mount

If you have any questions or comment feel free to let it fly.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...dan/car010.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...dan/car009.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...dan/car008.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...dan/car007.jpg

neweuser 05.13.2006 12:23 PM

Looks damn good! Nice job!

MetalMan 05.13.2006 12:57 PM

Looks pretty good! Just one question - what center diff is that?

Sylvester 05.13.2006 02:26 PM

Very nice buggy! Makes me wanna convert one...

boss 302 05.13.2006 03:26 PM

very nice work.

fishmasterdan 05.13.2006 07:17 PM

Thanks guys.

The center diff is the stock one. I replaced the metal spur gear with a kyosho # IF148 spur gear (plastic). I got that info here off the forum THANKS for that tip.

I went with a 13t pinion seems to work great.
I ran it for awhile today and I was AMAZED at how fast it was and how well it handled.
I did end up breaking the rear A ARM hoder. The plastic part that attaches to the differential let go and the a arm pin came out. (5 min 6 dollar fix).

anyone need an emaxx :) no going to need it now :)..

MetalMan 05.13.2006 08:02 PM

How hot did the motor get?

fishmasterdan 05.13.2006 08:58 PM

Motor gets very warm. I dont have a temp gun but I could hold my finger on it but it was borderline hot.
The heat sink was barely warm.

Romster 05.13.2006 10:12 PM

Nice conversion!!!

Big Daddy 05.13.2006 10:12 PM

where did you get the spur gear because I am also trying to find a plastic gear and can not find one that has about 52 teeth.

Thanks man,

Romster 05.13.2006 10:20 PM

Big Daddy,
Kyosho makes a plastic 53 tooth spur Gear part # is BS11 but it is from the old version inferno's either the Burns, USA 1 or the turbo inferno.. Not sure they make it anymore.. Some hobby shops may still stock them..
Hope this helps....

MetalMan 05.13.2006 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishmasterdan
The center diff is the stock one. I replaced the metal spur gear with a kyosho # IF148 spur gear (plastic). I got that info here off the forum THANKS for that tip.

....

Big Daddy 05.14.2006 12:53 AM

Thanks Romster I will have to look around to see if I can find one.

Darren 05.14.2006 05:08 AM

Could you fit 6 or 7 cell packs under those straps?

fishmasterdan 05.14.2006 08:13 AM

You could fit 12 cells per side pretty easy.
I am running 8 Li ion cells per side at 6000 mah.
4 li ion cells I have are almost the exact size as a 6 cell pack they just are little smaller around in dia..
sub C cells are ROUGHLY 1" in dia and the li ion cells I have are ROUGHLY 5/8".

I dont know why people still run sub c's when you can get li ion for about the same cost (unless you aleady have them).

Big Daddy;
The spur gear came from my LHS. I am not sure where to get one online. If you go that route I have a few tips...
Get some shims for your center diff and make sure you have a good fit before you put it all back together. The plastic spur is real close to the metal one but I had clearance issues inside my center diff and had to remove the shims that were already installed. Also pick up 4 of the pan head type screws for the diff spur you will need them. The screws that mount the spur on need to be FLUSH on the spur or you will have clearance issues when you mount you motor plate.
Hope that helps

Big Daddy 05.14.2006 10:11 AM

Alright thanks for the tip man, I will have check out my lhs to see if they have one.

squeeforever 05.14.2006 10:58 AM

I noticed that mike has some 44 tooth Kyosho spurs in the store.

Nick 05.14.2006 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishmasterdan
I dont know why people still run sub c's when you can get li ion for about the same cost (unless you aleady have them).

Prove it. What's your source?

fishmasterdan 05.14.2006 12:08 PM

Well lets see.

I purchased these http://www.toolsforless.com/product/7364.html for 131.88

That gives me 20 cells 1500 mah a piece at 3.7 volts nominal.
131.88/20 is 6.60 per cell or to make it easier to compute battery to battery.
2 li ion cells in parallel are 3000 mah. That would be 13.20$
Let take a GP 3300 http://www.maxamps.com/index.html?lmd=38836.584491
6.99 a cell. 6.99 * 3 is 20.97...


3.7/1.2 is 3.08. So to get to 1 li ion cell you need 3 subC batteries.

Hope I didnt screw that up

Sneeck 05.14.2006 12:52 PM

Need one of them special charger's too.

Nice conversion.

cart213 05.14.2006 02:05 PM

Post a pic of your pack, please!

boss 302 05.14.2006 02:11 PM

he posted pics of them in this thread http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...?t=2748&page=6

MetalMan 05.14.2006 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sneeck
Need one of them special charger's too.

Nice conversion.

Actually, you don't. Standard Lipo chargers work, and if you add a standard balancer cable/plug, you can use a standard balancer! But, if these still use the 3.6v charge like older Li-Ions, then you will need a charge program that can do 4.1v. The Multiplex chargers that Mike sells can do the 4.1v/cell charge under the "LiIon" charge setting.

fishmasterdan 05.14.2006 03:25 PM

I am using a triton charger. I can do 14.8 or 14.4. Of course I use the 14.8 :).

Resting voltage is 14.75 when done and off the charger .
You really dont need a balancer they are geared more toward li po cells. If your voltage begins to show lower after a charge you can measure the voltage per cell with a meter because these are put together like NIMH cells and use aligator clips to adjust voltage. It is VERY rare to get cells out of balance. I have been using lipos for a few years now and never had one go out of balance enough to worry about.

fishmasterdan 05.17.2006 06:53 PM

Ok guys need some input.

It seems that I am only getting about 25 maybe 30 mph with this set up. After 10 min or so it starts to get pretty hot.

A few things I am noticing. The front wheels spin ALOT mpore than the rear wheel. On pavement it takes a good 4 to 5 seconds before the front wheels stop spinning and the rear wheels catch up?? I ordered some 70,000 for the front and center diff.

Am I geared to low and over reving the motor??

boss 302 05.17.2006 09:00 PM

it sounds like your geared to low. what are the temps on the batts and controller.

squeeforever 05.17.2006 09:17 PM

I think the 70k should keep your front diff from unloading like that. It might be a tad to thick though.

MetalMan 05.17.2006 09:47 PM

You only need to put that oil in the center diff. Your handling may suffer if you put it in the front, since it won't be able to unload as easily.

fishmasterdan 05.20.2006 03:08 PM

Ok.
A few updates.
Went to a 14t pinion. The buggy is quite a bit faster on the top end but it heats up faster (this setup will require a fan). The controller gets warm also. Man I need a temp gun.

Swithed to 5,000 weight different oil. Put it in the front and center diff. Helps out ALOT to keep the front from unloading but could easily go to 7,000 in the front.

Under racing conditions the motor gets hot with the 13t pinion and 46t spur. I need to get a fan.

It was recommenend to me to get a 1950 but I dont want to spend that much.
Is there another option to get good speed (35 to 40) and keep the heat down on a 9 lb buggy on 4s??

Anyone got pictures and links to their fans??

Thanks

squeeforever 05.20.2006 03:17 PM

I think a 9 or 10XL would be perfect depending on what you want, speed or runtime.


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