FLM Emaxx Install
 

Hi all

First post...long time watcher and have purchased many RCM products and they are all great!!

I just got slipperential yesterday and assembled and went to install in FLM extended chassis. Two issues...One there are two mounts...one that mounts to the motor and the other (hour glass shaped). They look like they both bolt to the skid plate under the old transmission but the front one (hour glass one) doesn't contact the plate...what are people using to shim?

The other issue is that the spur is too big and hits the chassis braces. I'm almost certain I got a 58t spur gear and a 12t pinon. Is there trimming that's supposed to be done on the FLM chassis?

Also, I just realized that my axles are too short to connect to the slipperential. I have the traxxas (chrome colored ones) so, I guess I need new axles....suggestions? Anyone know sizes I need or does that depend on how far either forward or backward I mount the slipperential?


Thank you!!
Derek

Firstly, the hour-glass shaped piece is not symmetrical top to bottom- it is meant to go a certain way up, so that there is no gap underneath it ( long side on the bottom ). This picture shows the issue:

http://www.rc-monster.com/prodimages...al%20mount.jpg

Make sure you are installing that piece ( top right ) the correct way up.

As for spur gears, you will either need to notch the chassis / braces to fit the 58t spur, or you will need to switch to smaller MOD1.0 gears which are more common with this set up ( same as most 1/8 buggies and truggies use on their centre diff units ). 48T tends to be about as large as you can fit, though more like ~44-46T maybe needed.

For centre drive shafts, it depends exactly on how you position the CD unit- most guys cannibalize shafts / dog bones & drive cups from other models which are the needed length. I'd look at 1/8 buggies & truggies, and most MTs like the savage and LST etc too- they tend to list the shaft lengths ( pin to pin, or end to end, easy enough to work out what lengths you need once you position for CD unit ).

There are several threads around ( search 'emaxx slipperential' or 'emaxx center diff' ) though details about dog bones used is sketchy- Mike can custom make them to order ( or used to ), or you can go with slider shafts made from stock plastic shafts with an extra yolk on one end.

As the item description says though, it does require some DIY so there won't be an out-of-the-box solution to mounting & shafts etc...

Thank you for your response. I emailed Mike and asked him about the drive shafts. I will in the mean time look into your suggestions.

I'm cool with the DIY part of it all....I seem to work on my MT more than run it anyway :) Labor of love....

Thank you for the information about the non-symetrical part...I'll flip it around tonight and see how it fits.

I went with the 58t spur and 12t pinon because I read that is what Mike suggested in another post for an emaxx. At this point I think I'd rather switch to a different spur than cut my chassis...My concern with cutting the chassis is that I might not have the mounting holes if I ever want to install the stock transmission again.

Derek

I'm in your thread now. Did you have the center piece of the cd mount upside down? The flat part goes down...

Are you running traxxas diffs in the front and rear end? That would mean you can only really use dog bones, most center cvd's are for an 8mm pinion shaft.

I'll take a look at both my center diff maxxes and report back what I used.

Edit- this maxx> http://rc-monster.com/forum/showthre...&highlight=pif uses an LST center cvd in front, and a ofna hyper 8.5 rear dog bone in back.

My cybermaxx uses the FLM rear dog bone that came with the FLM chassis in the rear, and I believe a savage front dog bone up front.

Also like neil said, mod1 46 tooth spurs are a better fit and require minimum trimming of the chassis. In my cybermaxx I was able to trim in between mount holes, so I could still mount a transmission if I ever wanted to.

Are you using the 3906 or 3905 FLM chassis?

I am not sure what flm chassis I'm using. I trimmed the chassis the other night and turned the front mount over and got the slipperential mounted.

I measured the axle cups from end to end and got 76.2mm front and 133.35mm rear. I'm not sure how much room you should leave to get them in? I assume a couple mm each side.

I emailed Mike, rc alloys ( out of business), Kershaw design. I would like to get from Mike because I know they will be correct but I haven't heard back from him yet.

Mike doesn't really do driveshafts anymore, and Kershaw isn't the most reputable.

Measure to the bottom of the pin slot in the cup to the bottom of the pin slot in the other cup. If you use this as your pin to pin length the dog bone would be tight, so subtract 2mm for each side, or 4mm for the overall length.

savage xl rear dogbone is 142mm. Cut a straw or dowel or coat hanger to 142 and see how it fits.

Are you running traxxas diffs front and rear?

So I need 74mm front and 131 mm rear then.

I'm assuming using the bones that came with the flm chassis... Kershaw has been the only one to contact me back. Mike said he might have something from past project. What a bummer no one makes custom lengths. I might have thought again about venturing into this if I knew my truck was going to be down for a while because of this... Oh well I'm sure there is resolution.

Will any "dog bones work"? http:// http://www.ebay.com/itm/RedC...item53edbbf69a

That particular dog bone you linked to is 1/5 scale and won't work, but you're on the right track.


So the first measurements you gave were to the bottom of the cup? You said "end" so I thought you meant outside edge.

Are you running traxxas diffs front and rear? If they are 1/8 scale diffs you may also be able to use cvd's.

How do I post pictures in here?

Thank you for your help!!

No problem that's what the forum is for. You have to use an image host like photo bucket, upload your photos there, then you can copy the picture's "direct link".

Then when you hit reply here in the forum one of the tools above the dialogue box is a yellow sguare that looks like it has mountains in it. Click that, delete the "http" and paste your "direct link".

Here are a couple pictures of my setup. Let me know if you can't see what you need to help with the dog bones. I am running FLM Hybrid Bulks front and rear.

[IMG]http://i49.tinypic.com/11h59g9.jpg[/IMG]


[IMG]http://i48.tinypic.com/34jbsiu.jpg[/IMG]

The center plate of the center diff mount is upside down, the flat part goes to the bottom.

I don't understand what's going on with that bottom plate with all the holes in it. It almost looks like you mixed and matched a normal chassis with a low center of gravity chassis.

BTW that is a 3905 chassis.

The best bet is really to mock up a driveshaft and measure it.

Thanks on the plate... That makes more sense :)

Bottom plate is Revolve stand :) highly recommend this stand btw.. Great for working on your truck.

I know the size shafts i need... Just need to find them. Bummer er i can't use the one's i linked above. How can you tell they are 1/5th scale?

131mm shaft > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ofna-New-Rea...item5d3842b751

76mm pretty close > http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Packages-N...item2a27c201f6

I know it's 1/5 because it's for a redcoat rampage, which is 1/5th.

73mm > http://www.ebay.com/itm/CAGE-Parts-F...item27ce3c943e



I'm rethinking that 131mm I linked to, I believe ofna measures their shafts end to end not pin to pin.

I'll keep looking.

I just bought that shaft.. Thanks!!

Will mock up the front and let you know. Im pretty sure I need a 74mm shaft but ill mock up.

133mm > http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-Racing-T...item565165ec8d

It may take buying a couple to see what fits. I'm unsure what manufacturers measure pin to pin and which do end to end.

I saw that 73mm one too.. Its coming out of tawain though so quality and length of time to get was reason for not getting it. Ill see if I can squeeze that 76mm in.. I don't think so though.

I just made straws and the 131mm should work in the rear and for the front i need 72 or 73mm

Mike has located a couple dogbones for me and shipped them out today! I think when this is all said and done I'll have several bones :) Oh well...when someone has a bone to pick with me I'll give them one of those :)

Next thing I'm going to try and figure out how to do is get the magnet and pick up mounted to a drive line component for the Traxxas Link system so I can continue to get my telemetry :)

That's part of the fun of custom builds!:yes:

FYI, if you need custom length dog bones there are some guys over on the UE forum who can make them for you. :)

Cool...thanks gumleguf...Mine are all supposed to show up by Friday...anxiously spinning my wheels waiting to try out the Slipperential :P

[IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/34njekl.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i48.tinypic.com/19130w.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i48.tinypic.com/29267vn.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i49.tinypic.com/2zh1do4.jpg[/IMG]



OK...So, there's some pictures of my trusty ole' Emaxx'ish.

I just got the slipper installed and received my dogbones in the mail today....they fit like a glove and everything works well!!

I have some questions (of course :) ): I bought the brake kit to use with the slipperential but didn't install because there were three little pad looking ceramic looking discs that came with the slipper...are those for clutch or braking?? I have the brake kit still (un-opened). I don't seem to have 1/2 the brakes I used to...or....is this normal for functionality for a center diff. setup?

Second as you can see I bought Mike's battery boxes....but, they don't fit my FLM chassis....anyone else run into this too? They are notched sideways on the trays....I'm not sure what that's for but, I'm assuming it's so the trays drop down into the slats in the FLM chassis...the trays are too wide to fit down in for mine....thoughts? Suggestions?

I've just run the truck up/down my street (27 degrees out and pitch black...lol...I couldn't wait) but, so far it's really nice...when you start out it's not ballistic like it was before with the transmission. I'm sure I could stand to tighten up the slipper more to obtain more aggressive starts...? Also, I need a good supply of different pinon gears. I have 18t pinon on now with 58t spur. Seems good but, I like to tinker more than driving the truck...my wife...well, she's not really on that same plan.


What's next for the truck?????

I have both FLM suspension arms and RPM arms. Right now I have FLM front and RPM rear...I like the rear RPM set up way better! I have FLM front and rear hybrid Diffs, traxxas link system (telemetry), moooomba system with fan, 3s and 2s lipo's...currious to try 4-6s are like....probably just more $ for more crazy speed you can't really do anything with. I have Proline shocks with traxxas springs (LOVE THESE), FLM towers...4 different sets of tires (big joes {these are show tires...they useless IMO}, street rage, Proline response and response pro's. ANY thoughts for other upgrades.....other than a buggy :)

By the way...My roll cage might look weird because I cut off the top part of the cage and turned it around and re-welded it back on...I wanted to try and fit the Jeep body on and came up with that no cost solution! Anyway, that's why it looks backwards

Did you follow the instructions properly- the 3 ceramic pads need to be installed in a specific location:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...4&d=1238811331

I think your brakes will be better once you install those, though, it may also take some fine tuning & different fluid weights to get back the same brake feeling ( a very different setup compared to a 'solid' centre drive line as it were )...

Which specific trays did you buy? The generic tray option will not fit without mods, you needed to specify during ordering that the trays were for the FLM 3905 chassis, then Mike could have altered the design to fit perfectly ( made to order ). If you're running hardcase lipos though, then trays aren't really needed- just put the packs directly on the chassis and use the velcro straps to hold them in place- they shouldn't slide around due to the recess milled into the chassis for the lipos to snug down into.

You can certainly tighten the slipper, and play with fluid weights to get more aggressive acceleration ( bare in mind the whole idea of the slipperential is to make starts less aggressive & to reduce wheelies & back flips- it's more a design for racing than general bashing, though it works either way ).

Not really much more you can do, besides maybe a lighting kit for those dark evenings...

Yes, I did follow the instructions. The brakes work they just don't have the bite that the brakes had with the transmission. I'm wondering if I don't need the brake kit I ordered. I linking Mike to the thread so hopefully he'll chime in...

I like the feel of the slipper unit so far...the acceleration from a start was too much! I'm going to take it out this weekend and see how it does. I think I put 5000 oil in it...I can't remember though...I could be WAY Off on that...

I do have lights that I'm going to put in the Jeep body :)

The slots on the trays are for the battery straps - I don't think mike makes and specific trays for the FLM Max.

The brake kit is not required - You are going to use motor braking. The slipperential should be almost tight - you want very little slip especially with that monster tire combo.

I'd be looking at more like 30k or 50k with that setup.