what was i thinking???
 

i was in my lhs 2 days ago and they just recieved a jammin' x1 crt rtr. naturally, i bought it. been thinking about a truggy for a while. now to the questions:

1) which lmt?
2) which esc?
3) which cell count lopos?

this truck will be a dedicated racer so please consider weight and handling when addressing these questions. thanks, tally.

1) 1940, something at the 30-35000 rpm range
2) quark 125 or MGM 24160 (both have a built in lipo cut-off)
3) 6S lipo (though 4S would be enough allready, but you can take a lower kv motor and invest the extra 2S in runtime.)

Or you could do as Daniel (dafni) he bought 2 2S packs and 2 3S packs.

that way, you can run any configuration you like.

will that combo let me keep up with the other truggies? mostly lightnings.

Yeh, you could take a 1950, but it's not needed. the 1940 will do the job with ease on 6S lipo..

my g2r has a 1950 and its about right, torque and speed. the crt should weigh about the same, right?

also, ofna used red locktite on the motor mount to chassis, and 2 screws are still in it. i broke my ae hex drive on them. any suggestions on how to dissolve red locktite?

can you heat them up. That helps break the loctite or loosen it.

should i use my soldering iron?

Do you have one of those mini torches?

nope.

You can get one from Harbor Freight for like $3.

i've decided to say the heck with light weight racer and go balls to the wall, for me anyway. 2240 5 or 6 turn on 3s or 4s lipo and a micro 20120. what do you think. still handle good?

There's no need for a 2240 to get the most out of 3s or 4s.A 1940 would be better,even a 1930.

i want this truck to be faster than my revo(1950/8, 6s lipo, 12020). i don't think those will get the job done?

If you want balistic speed, a 2230 on 6S lipo will haul @$$.

The 2230/6s would probably perform very similar to the 1950/6s setup though,unless you went with a hotter wind.I'd try it with your current setup first,if you want to go all out and build a straight line rocket then a good 8s lipo will do it,or if you want it to be a track weapon i'd get a lighter system than you have now.

i'm really confused right now. i want real power, but i want the truck to handle like stock also. a guy at my local track just bought a rtr like mine and he is selling both of his lightning trucks. everyone at the track raves about the truck if they get to drive it. is there a perfect setup? plenty of power for a motocross style large track and a reasonable weight that won't effect handling to much. please help.

A 1940 on 4S or 5S lipo would be pretty quick as well.

A 6s setup will always be faster than a 4s or 5s setup, unless you are running a really slow motor on the 6s setup. If you wan't more speed, you need faster motor for 6s, or 7 or 8s lipo on the same or slower motor.

The thing is you can only use so much power on the track...The 1940 on 4 or 5S lipo will be a light POWERFUL setup like what he wants.

you guys do know that this is the truggy and not the buggy, right? for my local small track i could use the 1940. if i pick a wind for 3s lipo will it run hot quicker? its around 90-95 degrees in florida right now.

I wouldn't run 3S lipo. It would require to hot of a motor. 4S minimum probably. I would proabably use 5S.

that will be a lot of weight on one side of the truck though. our track only runs 5 min. races so i could use smaller lipos(2100 or 2500 mah), right?

Not if you run a 2S on one side and 3S on the other. I would run the 3S opposite the motor though.

the servo, top plate, and elec. box are there. was going to mount esc to top plate along with ubec, put Rx and lvc in the box. motor and battery will have to go on other side with nothing there.

i'll get a pic with a link in a second.

I know what it looks like but its usually required that you remove the RX box and stuff.

what about the plate that goes over the servo? that would free up a nice space.

It depends on if you want to leave the brake servo or use the motor brakes. If you do, I would leave the servos and put the motor behind them low on the chassis with the battery/batteries on the other side. It just depends on if you deside to use motor brakes.

i already gutted the chassis all nitro related parts are gone, except for the freaking motor mount from hell, two screws wont come out. i'll be using the esc brakes. so i can get rid of that side plate, it wont hurt chassis rigidness?

thanks for helping me, squee. this will be a big project for me.

Nope. The chassis is 7075 I believe so it should be pretty strong. Just cup that throttle/steering servo plate so that only the steering servo is left. Are you gonna run 1 or 2 lipo packs?

what do you mean cup the servo plate? "cut" the servo plate? i would like to run 1 pack.

Yea, cut :p. Anywho, if you ran one pack, I would put the pack on the right side with the servo and the motor, esc, rx, ect. on the left side. Thats depending on the weight though.

1940/10 on 6s lipo? how much difference would there be between 1940/10 on 6s and 1950/8 on 6s?

To be honest, I'm not sure. The 1940 can spool up fast. Why not try the 1950in it before you buy a setup?

i will. thanks.