wheelies?
 

how can i get a electric revo to do wheelies? what motor, cell count, gearing?

i am thinking feagio 8xl with 16 cells and i dont know what gearing.

Pretty much any BL setup can do wheelies..But what kind of speed? Runtime? Budget?

My Novak can do wheelies as far as you want in grass and on road

A lot of it also depends on the weight distribution and suspension setup. Stiffen the rear end and put the weight more to the rear makes it easier to wheelie. Although fun and cool to watch, wheelies obviously make steering a little difficult, not to mention hard on the rear diff...

im looking to beat most nitro revo's but the fun of wheeling down the street. and i will probably be using 40 series road rage and normal maxx size tires for offroad. and my budget i want to keep under 800 bucks but i have everything else but the electronics and i will have the stock chassis modded

Go with a Nue motor, and a Quark 125 and a UBEC. That would be a great setup and still leave some money for batteries.

How about no budget and you want to smoke any modded nitro Revo on the street for short drags only.

I am looking at the CF chassis but can't decide on the motor and battery setup. I will be running small tires and the lightest setup I can. There is just too much info on motors and batteries right now.

I only bash around the cul-de-sac and would like max power and speed for short bursts. The LST w/.32 I have is disturbing the neighbors.

The g2r is nice. The only thing about the revo is the stock diffs they have.
Mike is got some better ones coming though. The best IMO is the leher motor 19 series. The neu is just a little behind them.
The amount of batteries you run determines the number of turns.
I think lipo is the better choice in batts.

JB, that's an...interesting avatar. :dft002:

If money is no object, you could get an MGM160 controller with a Lehner 1950/8 and 6s lipo, such as two of the 3s2p 8000mah MaxAmps lipos.

I think the Neu motors are better. At least thats what Mike said...

will a novak hv maxx 4.5 turn motor let me pull wheelies like crazy or should i go with a 6.5 for the extra torqe (spelling?)?????

and what should my gearing be? i saw u can use a 51 tooth spur with the strobe slipper and what tooth pinion should i use? or should i use the stock 70 tooth? and i read the hv gearing chart and i dont get it????????????

I have a 8xl/Mamba Max esc on 14 cells in my evo and it wheelies like crazy. Its actually too much in the grass, the front end won't stay down. I have to let off the gas to turn. Street driving is more reasonable, but with the proline wing as a wheelie bar, I can ride wheelies into the sunset.

The top speed is prob close to 40 if a bit less. The orig 2.5r may have had a slight higher top end, but the accel with the BL is so brutal that its much more useful. I never find myself going top speed off-road (dirt.) Its just gets so fast for the MT that you're just waiting for disaster. What is nice is the accel is so good you can just line up a jump, blip the throttle and then zing off teh jump.

I have mine geared 15/51 w/ a strobe. The strobe is out of production, so unless you can find one you'll have to use a robinson setup or the like.

No matter what you get you'll prob worry more about trying to control the wheelies as opposed to trying to get it to do them

what chassis sre u using? im going to go with a g2r and its longer and lower, will this make a difference?????

I just converted the stock 2.5r chassis. You can actually see my convertion in a fwe threads down w/ pics, tho I'd say its still in "beta" v0.7 as I keep changing a few little things here and there as I run it.

The longer, lower chassis should help to a point, but for any real improvement you'd prob want a center diff as found in the 3.3 tranny. I've never run the g2r, but I imagine the wheelie prob holds for just about everyone. I'm just a basher, so I'm just learning how to drive with it.

You can do other things as well, like soften the rear shocks and move weight forward, but this can only be done to a point before the handling gets ugly.

hey finnster u can run a 8xl with a mamba maxx esc no probs with 14 cells???? if so i will be stealing youre setup lol. if not what is a esc motor combo that is under 350 bucks? i only want to run 14 cells but i want speed close if not the same a stock revo 2.5r and wheelie power

The Mamba Maxx is only rated for 12, but even the reps at CC say it can handle 14 or 4S WITH a UBEC, but I would go for a 9920 and a Feigao 8XL C or a Quark 125 if you can swing the extra 80.

thanks squee that that will be my setup but figures the speedy is out of stock

I am personally not a fan of the 9920. I had one I had trouble with, and was not particularly impressed with the contruction. It is not enclosed, so there are a number of small electronic bits to break off if you are not careful. Plus if you do is a long repair time having to sent it back to Germany. Plus, from all the accounts I've read, the 9920 is not nearly as smooth as some of the newer escs like the Quark or the MMax. I can def say the MM is very smooth and is nrealy cog-free. I can nearly crawl with it. The real advantage of the 9920 is high voltage. It is the only setup that can reliably run 6s. The quarks should, but several here have had mixed results above 5s...

The greatest thing about the MM is that it is completely programmable by usb/computer. You don't have to do this, but is really neat if you want to adjust all sorts of custom settings. Plus CC is in the USA and has legendary customer service if something ever does go wrong. Running above voltage specs is not covered under warr, but as mentioned, the CC engineer said it can techically be done, and many others inc myself have confirmed it.

You have to disable the BEC but pulling the middle wire pin from the connector and run a ubec. Ubecs can be found for as little as $15 if you are not planning high voltage, but will required whatever setup you use. A samll fan is also needed for extra cooling. My esc stays below 125F.

If you are looking to run no more than 4s/14cells then the MM is what I would get. Its only ~$165, where as the 9920 is ~$190 and the Q125 $280. Id rather put that $120 into a better motor like a neu or LMT. 5s/16cell+ ==> quark, mgm or equiv.

The only heat concern I am having is from teh motor (8xl.) A neu/ lmt will run cooler and could poten be geared for a bit more speed. Overall I am very pleased with my setup.

so hows the 8xl on speed, torqe,heat? im thinking about the mamba maxx but i dont know so 14 to 16 cells.

Finnster, I am curious as to what temps you are getting with the 8XL. When I used it in my Revo, it ran about in the 130-140 range. On 14 cells it ran great, even on my heavy truck. If you go higher on the cells, you start hitting the high end of 40krpm and would heat up more.

does rc monster sell the feiago xl motors because i saw squee's revo and the motor was purple and the motor i saw was like blue or something

My post in another thread:

"The bad news was the motor peaked at 165+ after ~45 mins of hard running on the dirt (jumps, high speed runs, powerslides, climbing and other bashing goodness.) The HS was only getting to ~125, so I'm worried poor contact may actually be insulating the motor some. Had a blast tho.

Strangely, the rear steel output shaft for the tranny got to ~165. I was careful to have the drivetrain freespinning when I built it, and had to do a little chassis trimming for the shafts. I did notice the shaft moving a bit under high throttle, so I'm thinking a bearing is busted. I do not see any signs of wear between the chassis and the driveshaft. Hopefully addressing these two issues will bring down the heat some, else I may be looking at a Neu sooner than later.."

I still have to look at this Brian. I do remem you were running a 14t, but in a heavier truck. The motor is still only on 14cells. If I could get teh temps to below 150 I would be happy. Its mostly in the 140s, but did get pretty hot at the end (tho the last pack was 12 cells, but I would think this would have the opposite effect,...??:032: )

Like mentioned above, the rear tranny output shaft is getting really hot, so something isn't spinning right. I didn't even notice it until the end when I put my hand underneath to pick up the truck and nearly burned myself. The shaft is moving under load, so prob the bearing is blown. I need to better seat the motor HSclamp as well, but without a lot of contact force its never going to be ideal.

EMaxx:
The motor is great, I just have to get the heat squared away. Tons of power and Tq. Its nearly undrivable in the grass as so much TQ has the F wheels always off the ground. I would estimate speed to be high 30s to ~40 mph. As fast or faster than my rustler with a BL novak GTB/5.5. Really its plenty fast for me. I rarely get to top speed in the dirt. If all you want is to go up and down the street really fast, then maybe you'll want a bit more, but I don't see the point of the MT if you don't take it off the street. :025:

RC-monster does sell the 8xl in two versions, one by faegio and one by BK relabelled as the Wanderer. One is blue, one is purple. Mine is blue. Basically the same motor, tho I've heard the kv are slightly diff. Really its pick your color.

Ah, maybe drivetrain drag causing the motor to work harder.

You said that you'd think that 12 cells would run cooler than 14 cells. Well, I thought the same thing, but when I first put Revo V1 together (feels like ages ago), I used both 12 and 14 cells and found that the motor was hotter and runtime was worse on 12 cells. Some of the helpful people here mentioned that it might be because I was on the throttle harder with 12 cells to make up for the difference in power from the lack of the 2 extra cells. Maybe that's what is happening to you?

That happens on my 10xl on 14 cells vs 16 cells. It's like it has to work harder to get to the speed you want. Technically, i should be running my 9xl in the truck with 14 cells and nto the 10xl.....but i like the speed of the 9xl better in my truck! LOL :)

The blue motors are Nemesis or Wanderer motors. Mike recently got the Feigao C version which is the same thing as the Nemesis, Wanderer, and Feigao XL's, but has the black, built in heatsink can. I bought mine from somebody else, because Mike didn't have any 10XL's in, and I wanted a purple motor as well. If I could have waited, I could have ahd Mike get me one with his next order, but I was kinda in a hurry.

Kinda goes that way sometimes..."hate to wait!" And don't like it much buying from others, especially if you have never bought from them before. Been burned a few times that way! makes you appreciate the good ones like Mike! Austin! Fast Lane Guys, Castle Creations.....on and on.....

I started to write a but OTOH, but then erased in in regards to the 12 cells running harder. I was hard on the throttle with all the packs as I was really trying to do a stress test w/ the MM and the 25mm fan, so I'm not sure it was really driving style. I was wondering if the motor is causing a higher amp drain due to the decreased voltage. I would think that both voltage and amps would just go down, that why I erased the thought before I posted it, but without some data logger I am just guessing.


Didn't mention the C motors, but I would prob rec one of those so you won't have to buy the extra HS clamp. I have a 380C and its great, but haven'yt tried the XL in C-cans.. Any would be good tho

Yeah, it's kinda hard to say. It made sense in my case though. It was just a thought. (BTW: what's OTOH?)

As far as I know, the ESC doesn't pull more current to make up for lower voltage. I think it simply outputs a PWM pulse proportional to throttle using whatever voltage the batteries can provide. Normally, for a given load, an increase in V = increase in A. However, the motor is a coil and there is inductance involved, so I'm not sure if that is a factor somehow.

Edit OTOH=On the other hand. Doh!

thanks for everyones help... i am getting my revo closer to being done. for center drive shafts can i put e maxx oned in or what should i use because my revo ones are rubbing? also what gearing for speed and accerleration? i will be using the stock emaxx spurgear system and pinoins

also what would the heat differences be between the Quark Monster Pro 125B and the Warrior 9920????? 16 cells

Quarks run hot, the 9920 for me on 16 cells ran cooler. but it depends on the motor and gearing too. But if you heatsink the quark properly, it will run better.
I ran the 10xl/9920 for a long time and did great for me. Run that system in my girls emaxx now. Still kickin very well. Worth the money!

Choices:
1) Revo shafts (long ones). You need to cut out and/or grind out some of the chassis for them not to rub.

2) Steel CVD's. May or may not rub also.

3) Emaxx drive shafts...dont know. If they fit, use them. Cant hurt much except the shafts themselves. If they are too short, but fit otherwise, maybe you could cut down a set of Emaxx drive shafts....?

I'm curious. If you cut them, how would they work? Are you referring to sliders? Than i could see it working...

yes, I meant the sliders....

that's what i thought, wasn't sure though. thanks!

well i bought a wheelie bar off of ebay

Just curious; which one?

I tried an Aluminum one and bent it several times - and it was 1/8" 6061. I was thinking of using a wing for this purpose (plus it looks cool), but I dunno...

Brain, definately go for the wing. I find it works great...:D