Jammin Truggy
 

Gotta post a pic of my truggy project. It's not done, but it's just about there.

I'll let a pic or two do most of the talking here...

Flipped the diff, Kyosho 46T plastic gear, basic motor mount plate (needs upgraded to alum or graphite), special alum angle "battery containment security and mounting brackets" with velcro pad for extra sticky :027:

Much easier than a buggy and still plenty of room for the slightly oversize batteries I plan to stuff into it.

Regular 6 cell 4200s etc will fit great too... I just made sure it has a little extra elbow space for the 50mmx140mm lipo cells that are common in big mah packs.

I think the only custom drilling/tapping etc on the truck was for mounting the battery brackets and the little top plate above the motor.

If I keep the esc up top, I think I will try putting it behind the center diff on a similar top plate. It would probably look better and be better balanced... and closer to the batts.

Have a nice ride, doc.

Very nice project! You have done a great job!

Are you going to use lipo's?

You need something to keep the batteries from falling out?

Thanks...

Yeah I plan to use lipos, but any old nickel 6 cell packs will fit also. I have some loose cells I'm going to use special for the truggy.... I'm thinking 4s4p 12,000mah. :027: Or I might chicken out and go with a lighter 2p 8000mah. :002: I don't want to make it too heavy and kill handling and make things run hotter. But I want the big pack so I can make a 30 min race nonstop.

I have the other gorrilla strap somewhere :032: ... and I will have either some nerf bars on the sides like my buggy or a velcro strap of some sort to keep them from moving sideways.

I decided to make the alum braces like that so the batts can't ever get into the gears and there wasn't much chassis exposed at the rear, like to mount the gorilla straps. They should do a nice job of keeping the batts secure.

Heck I have thought of making a 1/10 buggy style battery bar across the top, with the packs boxed in on all sides. That would be cool. But I may be running packs that vary a lot in thickness.... like going from a big thick lipo pack to a 6 cell nickel pack. Velcro straps are more versatile....

I got to run just a couple laps at the track today.... I think I will move the esc to the rear and I need to get the new motor mount done. The plastic temp. mount isn't holding the motor mesh right. It lets the motor slip away just a bit.

I seemed to run a little nose heavy, which can be addressed with some setup adjustments, but I might as well start by shifting some weight back and go from there.

My buggy has had the same tendency but I can't do much about the layout there... I need to make some setup tweaks to try to fix it. I did run some of the fastest lap times when I raced it though so it's not exactly a pos. :D

Cool. I glad it is work out fairly well. Little work for motor mount you be good to go.

I need to update with some pics.... tomorrow...

I made a new motor plate (plastic not even good enough to test with... ruined a brand new spur) out of carbon fiber... 6mm.

Had to hack together a new spur gear.. using an old kyosho plastic gear and a Savage plastic gear. It worked pretty slick but I messed it up a little... explain later. Still runs fine for now.

Added some side skirts to the battery mounting things... so they are all boxed in tight. Now I need to find some different straps.

Finally I can run it without grinding gears... it's punchy as he11. I dropped in the 1512 1700kv with 12/52 gearing...

I'm getting a 1515 for it but I'm not sure it needs more than the 1512. I will know better after getting some wheel time tomorrow I hope.

Well I didn't get to run it today cause it rained all day. But I got a couple pics of my new motor mount for the buggy.

Pics show the rear brace that simply has plastic "plugs" that fit into the holes on the endbell...
the three screws that bolt it to the center diff mount...
the plugs (bottom pic) made to fit into the holes in the front endbell...
and you can see the little slider thing that goes above the main motor plate.

The slider thing screws into one of the motor mount holes and it's to lock the gear mesh.... stops the motor from slipping down tighter against the spur when the car slams down from a big jump. It simply slides over until it's snug against the motor plate and locked in place.

This motor plate is very beefy... a sandwich of (two) 3mm graphite plates. The old mount was a single layer, and I had no troble with it either.

The Jammin truggy mount is made the same but it's a laydown style just like the plastic one in the pics above.

One more thing the truggy needs is a rear motor brace of some sort to lock it in place, although it's not critical cause it's flat on the chassis.

looking good...nice idea about locking the gear mesh so the motor doesn't move.....nice layout to...

thanks... I guess I am spamming my own thread with pics of buggy parts... I should rename it now "buggy and truggy projects"

don't mean to confuse things...

WOW...I just got a package today, a neu motor from Mike.... it's monday morning and he sent it saturday. How does that happen? New York to Iowa...

wow...now thats some fast shipping...i can get stuff real quick as well, since he's only 2 1/2 hours away from me..and im in the same state

Lucky you! I'm in MN, and usually gets here within three days of placing the order, sometimes 4. But to me, that's fast even! but to Iowa! wow!!!

now your lucky, you can just drive to mikes house:D NICE TRUCK:)

To continue the off topic-ness, I've gotten packages from the east coast to me on the west coast on Monday when they were shipped Saturday...

Are there going to be any sort of videos for us to enjoy?

Yeah, we need vids for sure.. Well put Metal..

Yeah... I swamped right now just trying to get things ready to race this weekend, but I can get some video for sure.

I haven't post video to the net for a long time. Where should I upload it? Is rcpics free?

ON topic: I weighed the truggy today at 11.5 lbs fully loaded ready to run with the big ol 4s 12000 packs and the stock tires.

I could drop almost a pound off that by running 8000s instead.

Race tires (Bowtie MTs) will drop a few oz off that but I didn't check how much.

My buggy weighed in at 7lbs 14oz with 4s 6000 lipo.

lol more off topicness. only about 15min from me. actually i have been kicking around the idea of a brushless truggy. it seems cheaper then the e-maxx route and better suited to racing. it probably wont happen until school starts back up ( i will then have access to the mills lathes and cnc machines) and when i have some cash.

Saw a few jaws drop at the track during Friday practice. :D

Truggy (and the buggy too) looks pretty bad tearing up the track. I heard a few murmers from the nitro guys about me running with them... guess they a little scared huh? ha ha ha funny stuff....

I think most of them are cool with it. But IF I can put a good run together and challenge for the lead etc there are a few who will do some crying.

Thats what I'm expecting at this big race coming up. The BPP LSP should be a force to be messed with.

If the nitro guys quit crying and get real power like brushless.

Some of my racing buddies have called my 1/8 things like "devastating" ... "retarded fast" ..."sick".... ha ha ha

off topic:
I raced the MM 7700 in my XX4 today and it was ballistic... front tires just ballooned as I accelerated down the straights.

I also hear a lot of guys say they want one... I let some of the guys takea few laps... everybody loved it.

If you start beating them regulaly, they will ban you........
it happened to me :005: I now have to race my G2R with the truggys

Posted some info on another thread.. but I beat all but one nitro last weekend. Got a 2nd place trophy... and likely would have got 1st, but I took a "mercy" pit stop like the nitros did just to be fair. I was about 2-3 seconds back from the leader when I stopped in the pits... and that lap he got into trouble so I was still only about 3 seconds back so if I hadn't "pitted" I would have caught him. Oh and I started in the back of the pack because I only ran one qualifier and broke in it so I had to win the B main to bump up to the A, and work to the front. Had a good time. :D

I remounted the mamba and put a fan over it and the motor... I'll get a pic to post. And I'll try to get some video this week to post too...

Keep us updated.....im in the process of figuring out how to make a motor mount incase you/somebody cant make me one. I just posted some pics on RCCA board and here of it so far.

I can still make one for you if you want... I told my LHS to get a set of diff mounts so I can make one. They are only $4... probably will have them end of the week at the latest.

My Jammin: it's still raining a lot and ruining my chances to run it. I ran it with the fan setup last Wed night at the track and had pretty good results with temps. I had several guys taking laps with it and we ran it over 30 minutes... temps peaked in the 150s on the motor and a bit less on the esc if I recall correctly, and they were actually a little lower when we finally stopped runnning. Something like 140s/130s motor/esc. Good enough for me. :)

I might get a brief run in the yard today and will try to do some video... :027:

Glassdoc, what setup were you running to get those temps?

Hey Glass.....if you can still make me one that would be cool.

Im gonna have Mike make me one out of aluminum too. I think i figured out exactly what im going to run:

NEU 1515 motor
Quark Monster Pro 125B ESC
MaxAmps Lipoly 8000mah 2S2P 7.4V Pack

Once i get a motor mount i can start buying everything.

James, I would go for at least a 5S setup for a truggy. I'm gonna run 6S in my BPP LSP-R.

With right gearing squee it be fine. 6s may be much for racing. The control will be harder to handle.
You going to go with the 2200 kv 1515? I think that is what Mike has on 4s.

Im pretty new to Lipo....5S is 5 cell?

So the one im looking at is a 2 cell pack in paraell? what does that mean compared to a 2 cell pack in series?

This is the pack:
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...S2P8000&cat=18

A local guy was running this on his Fine Designs Truggy and it was ripping. Will this be enough to power the esc and motor? I want something that isnt going to overheat. I plan on mounting a small fan to keep things cool too.

Coolhand- How do i know which motor is the 2200 kv 1515? What is 1515 1y/F or 1515 2.5d/F? Im not really understanding the difference.

Thanks for the help and sorry to jack your thread Glass :)

Guys feel free to post the replys to this post in my thread here:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...0790#post60790

Thanks

The pack you got is 2s 2p. It has 4 x 4000 mah cells in the pack. 2 series which = higher voltage. 3.7 per cell x 2 for 7.4 volts It has 2 parreall which = 4000 mah x 2 for 8000.

Bump . . .

Any more updates or pics on this? Kind of seems like it faded away. Are you still running the Neu 1512? Is the Mamba esc holding up? Any video?

Thanks!

I jumped it about 10' in the air on a x-games style snow jump in my back yard the other day :) I actually planned to get it on video but I didn't have anyone to hold the camera... maybe next time.

I will try to get some more pics etc of my cars on here. I haven't been running them though so I don't think about it.

I have the 1515 2.5D in it, and 4s 12000mah maxamps lipos.

It has a MM in it still, but I'm thinking about testing with my Mtroniks while we are waiting for a software update from CC. It runs with the MM, but it has a start-up cogging pretty bad every so often.

Hey, thanks for the updates glassdoctor! Yeah, please post some more pics when you get time. So did you also put the LSP diff gears in the front and rear too? Did you consider any other conversions (1/8 truggy) & if so, why did you choose the CRT? Sorry for so many questions, but I'm trying to get as much info as possible before I start my conversion. I'm hoping to start it within the next month. Thanks.

No LSP gears... the truck is stock except the plastic center gear. Well, and lack of nitro. :)

I chose the Jammin because it is (or was) the best truggy, period. They are popular at the track. They are tough, and they are fast... and parts are cheaper than many brands too, not that you probably need any.

Most truggies should convert exactly the same as my CRT.... most 1/8 are copycats.

Now I might look at the Losi 8T... it would be pretty sweet. But the design/layout would be different.

Nice, thanks. I've looked at the 8ight T too, but not sure the added cost since it's new is going to be a value over the CRT. I owned a nitro RTR CRT and loved it except for the nitro part. Now I have a brushless Lightning Stadium 10 that's awesome, but I want 1/8 scale. So I'm going to sell it and do a conversion. Here's what I've come up with so far:

Kyosho 777 - Nice, but little support, no experience with one
Mugen MBX5T - My 2nd choice, but no experience with one, more expensive, narrower chassis
LSP-R - Great value, but performance is lacking vs CRT
CRT-Pro - So far, it's the winner for me.

I'm thinking about running the Quark 125 and the Neu 1515. That's about as far as I've gotten. Heard about running the LSP gears, but not sure I need to. Not sure about the lipo yet either.