Rebuild kit...smoked motor
 

Since the 1930 is not a cheap motor can you get spare coils for it? I have only burnt out one coil, in the green circle the wire is supposed to be joined “burnt like a fuse” and the red arrow is only one coil burnt.

<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/4537/burnt1930lt9.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>

I don't think you can replace just the windings, but you I'm pretty sure you can get just the can. It might be $150 or something, but it would be better than the original price....

Does the can come with the windings? And does mike sell the cans?

here is the email that i use when i need to talk to bk in germany...keep in mind they are 6 hrs ahead of us....

info@bk-electronics.com

The can is connected to the coil. They use some kind of lacquer and put them in an oven.

Did you used too long screws?

Would be cool if they offer to replace/refurb the can for a reasonable price. You know they can if they want to. The cost is negligible to a manufacturer to repair something like this.

It's a pita to get it out.

With electric motors, the wattage of the motors that can be (money efficient) recoiled is getting higher with the day.

How did you smokethe motor?

You would think if it were too long of screws, more than one portion would be burnt up? Unless it happened at "plug in"?

that what it looks like...one of the srews made contact with the winds...

Yeh I can’t find any specifications/dimensions on these motors at all.

The screws did touch the coils but only just to leave a little mark but the weird thing is the motor worked for awhile with those screws then it smoked I though if the screws where touching it would of smoked straight away. To me if there’s no specifications like dimensions/sizing it’s a design fault.

did you email Bk to see what they say.....i have hte phone # if you like, so you can call them....just let me know...

Obviously I’ve opened it so I don’t know about warranty anymore, I don’t know about the phone number because I’m in Australia, I haven’t emailed them but I can.

try that first and if you need the # just drop me a pm or i can post it here...ok...I call from the US all the time to them....just to let you know...

The wires in the windings are coated with a form of varnish to insulate them against each other. A screw, unless turned tightly will not touch the actual wire right away - it probably ran OK for a while, then smoked when the vibrations caused the screw to abrade the varnish away.

Before mounting a motor for the first time, I VERY gently insert the screws as far as they will go until the ends touch the coils, then back off two-three turns. I mark that spot and remove them. Use the shortest one (one screw will probably hit a coil first due to how they are built) to find the exact screw length you need. You just can't forget to account for motor mount thickness (which I did once).

Yes I’ll do that next time, I’m used to my motors where you can put a really long screws in because they pass in-between the magnets but that’s brushed I totally forgot that the coils where on the outside geees I new that too:007: :035:

Its weird you pay good money for an awesome motor but no specifications and we have brushless motors in stock for $29 and they come with a lot of info.:032:

no replacement coils:035:

this is what LMT said

"if you demaged the coil
no replacement possible

LMT replace only

ball bearing
end / front plate
rotor

but no coil !!!!!"

Ask them if you could buy a motor with out the rotor bearings or end bell.
You could put yours in it then.

good suggestion...didn't think of that...

I am sure that's possible.

The reason why you can't recoil them, is because it's cheaper to take a new aluminum can and coil that one, instead of removing the coild from your old one.