Diffs...
 

All right guys can you help me out with this one. I am going to get a decent brushless combo (quark 125 & good motor "Motor not yet decided") that will do anywhere between 40 and 60 max but probably around 47mph. I have been deciding what diffs to get. The people at Novak told me that I would not need to replace the diffs if I use the HV system, which does about 40mph. Now I know that I will not be using a HV system, but other people on this forum have told me that when I go brushless I will need to replace the diffs. Now my question is will I really need to the diffs, or will they last me a while with the brushless system. My next question, if I get better diffs what kind of diffs should I get. Most people have told me to get the 7.5 spider diffs from UE, some people have told me to get the FLM diffs, some people have told me to get the T-Maxx 3.3 diffs, and the rest of the few people told me to get Robinson racing diffs. Now I do understand with all the diff sets how they all just bolt in and your ready to go EXEPT the UE spider diffs. Now since these are so much more expensive than the others they must be considerably better "Right". Since the gearing ratio is different than stock how will I make up for the difference in ratio (Buy using different pinions/spur). Also how do I figure out the over all ratio, and what I want the final gear ratio to be. Will these spider diffs be faster or slower in speed, have more torque or less torque, or are they just indestructible, what is the advantage of buying these diffs over the stock gear setup (gear and cup). And is it really worth it to buy these for the high price that they charge.
Thanks for reading this long post and if you could answer as many questions as possible.

Thanks so much for your help:032: :002: :032:

Well, I know that if you go 8 spyders, they will gear you down, so in pinion you need to go up. But to hit 40+ a Neu 1515 2.5 will get you there depending on your batts. Also, you can go with Hot Bodies diff which Squee will definately suggest, and they can fit into the combo bulks which Mike sells. The hot bodies are the closest that I know of that will get you to stock gearing.
I can tell you that the spyders are WORTH every penny. You may never have to change them again! I have never had to anyway! I have taken my maxx and had it at full throttle and dropped it on the ground(thank god for warranty) and it kept on going. It does give more torque as the gearing is lower, but to gain the speed, you just adjust the pinion to get that back. It is an 1/8th gearing so it is lower and gives more torque. But trust me when i say that it's worth every penny! It is! You can do this two ways, get the gears with cases from UE or Mike(preferred), or get the diffs(cheaper) then buy the FLM Hybrids to fit(MIke). In any case, go thru Mike with any of these choices, it's all personal IMO. Hot bodies, or UE's, take your pick, they are both good. As far as motors, if your going Quark, and have the money, get the Neu to go with it, otherwise you are going to have to heat sink the crap out of it! IMO, I had to! But this is just me, some guys here may disagree!
Otherwise, motors, you can go feigo xl would be a good to, save money, which I'm finding, not always been the best option. Some others will definately chime in on this and I expect that this will be a good thread!

How many cells you plan to run and what kind of tires? The tire size makes
a difference on diff selection. If you got a 7 or 8lb truck the diffs will survive
better than with a 12 to 15lb model. Short tires or tall tires means the amount
of leverage it has over the diff. The more cells you have the more power you
have. I hope this hasn't confussed you more.

OK coolhandcountry I will tell you what I am going For.

1.) Flextek arms
2.) Graphite G2 chassis
3.) G2 motor mount
4.) G1 single speed conversion
5.) G3 shock towers
4.) FLM combo bulks (either of 1/8 gears or standard)
5.) Ti beadlock rims
6.) badland tires standard
7.) T-Bonz CVD;s
8.) RPM knuckles
9.) integy shocks msrp5 (please do not dis, I got them for free)
10.) i will be using a stick pack (unfortantly:024: ) for like 3 months then i will step it up to the orion 4800 (tell me you suggestions based on this batt)
11.)quark 125 esc and probaly a motor under a hundred like feigo xl
12.)spekrtum reciever hiteck servo metal gear

Thats pretty much the over setup I will have after christmas
now note it will be a 70/30 system bashing/racing, yes I am always trying to lose weight but if something is cool and it works good I am not going to debate weather to put it on there thanks for your replys.

Don't forget, the combo bulks are for standard Maxx gears. The hybrids are for 1/8th scale gears (the hybrids are a few dollars more).

That was number 4 on the list squee.
It don't sounds like it will be real heavy. BUT since you going to bash and race.
You may consider the 1/8 diff upgrade. It is not much more and is sure stronger.
Besides you can adjust the diff action with oil.

sorry I always make this mistake i ment the combo or the hybrids depending on what type of gears. the spider 8 gear set costs 200 for both front and back not including the diff case and the flm or robinson racing standard size upgrade gears are between 60 and 100. Is it really worth the hundred plus bucks plus aren't the spiders only compatable with UE cvds or will they work with the t-bonz ones. Will the flm or robinson racing one hold up for my uses because it is always nice to save some money. I i do get the Robinson racing or flm gear which is better robinson or flm. plus if i do get these diffs sets unstead of the spiders will i be replacing them every year.

Definately go with the 1/8th's....Like Troy said, I would recommend the HB Lightning diffs. They are VERY good. Tunability with fluid is a BIG thing if you race as well, so definately get them. Yes, you will probably have to replace the FLM or RRP gears eventually, but not on a daily basis...If you do deside to get the FLM or RRP, go with the FLM...

After looking at the price they are not much more expensive than the flm ones so i decided to get these. Squee will the t-bonz cvds work with these diffs. Does the diff set come with every thing i need to drop them to the hybrid bulks or is there something else i need. as far as oil is black grease a good choice and how much should i put in the gear box. Also what kind/size spur gear and pinions should i use because the 1/8 gears are different ratio right
thanks :027:

Ok, the Tbonz should work, but I would go UE or MIP. With cerious power, they won't last probably...The only CVD's I'm aware of that don't work are the RD Logics. Also, yes, the diffs ($65ish per diff) come with EVERYTHING you need. the diff, pinion, (not motor pinion, pinion as in ring and pinion), diff shims, etc. Just as oil to the inside of the cups and grease to the gears. Start with something like 10K up front and 5K out back.

So you dont think the T-Bonz wont hold may i ask why? do you know someone that has broke them. Would the UE steel CVDs be good or would I have to go titanium UE CVDs

Steel would be fine. If you can afford it, I would upgrade to 8mm ones, but 6mm is strong as hell. Our very own Leroy (CoolHandCountry) has broken a MIP or 11 :p, and I'm SURE MIP are stronger than T-Bonz. MIP are pretty much the next best thing to UE.

OK so I will go with the hybrid bulks with HB diffs and mip cvds. This should be able to hold up to anything under 60 right. How much more expensive are the 8mm ue cvds over the 6mm cvds.

Not much...I would choose the 6mm UE over the MIP. What knuckles are you gonna run? I would run UE Widetrac knuckles. They use a 16mm bearing so it is alot stronger and allows you to run 8mm with only having to get different bearings (bearings that are easily found, unlike the only 15mm bearins they used).

I was planning on running the rpm knuckles but if the UE are not much more i would rather have them what do they run. how much better are the ue over rpm since rpm is free replacement if you break them. And does ue sell these bigger bearings to fit the 8mm cvds.

Yea, UE sells the bearings if you upgrade to 8mm cvd's or whatnot. Which you can actually get 6mm and when cash allows, upgrade to 8mm by simply buying the stub axles since the rest is the same. The UE aren't cheap, but there not unreasonably priced like the rest of there stuff. I wouldn't get the RPM though because they wear out around the bearings and create slop because there nylon...There nice, but not if you don't like buying things more than once. By the way, you don't really need to worry about breaking UE stuff. There isn't a free replacement, but hell, I don't think they need it :D.

what do the UE knuckles run

$70 a pair retail, but $56 or so on sale. Here ya go...

first question will the flm hybrid bulks hold standard size diffs or is it just are they only allowed to hold the 1/8 size. Next question am going with the hb diffs and the 8mm ue cdvs nice but will run me like 250 bucks. But i was thinking will the t-maxx 3.3 diffs and cvds hold up to a 50mph bl e-maxx if so it does not got the semi-bling of the 8mm but it would be like 150 bucks cheaper. will this work does anybody use these on there bl combo are the strong. Right now i can afford the 3.3 diffs and cvds will the hold or should i wait 3 months till i get cash(money comes slow no job right now) to get the hb and 8mm cdvs.

the FLM hold 1/8ths, you get the combo that would hold standard. I would get the 6mm cvd's and hold out. 8mm are over kill imo, but that's just me.

yes i know they will hold but will the 3.3 t-maxx stock cvds hold up to a 50 mph brushless combo because the t-maxx 3.3 does like 45

they should hold fine; i really don't think that speed has as much effect on them as much as torque does. you know that brushless motors have soooooo much more torque right?

on another note, you will probably have to modify the 3.3 sliders to fit 1/8 diffs, and you know that in order to use 3.3 slider on an e-maxx (i presume you have an e-maxx) you need revo knuckles, turnbuckles and arms. (i think)

bye:018:

You don't accually have to mod the shafts to fit the diffs. You have to mod
the diffs to fit the shafts. The 1/8 diffs have the cups made on the shafts.
The emaxx diffs have the shaft the the drive shafts fit on.

are the 3.3 diffs different from stock emaxx diffs will they fit in the combo bulks. Will they hold up to brushless or will they die on me i thought if they hold up to the 3.3 maxx they might hold up on a 50mph bl e-maxx is this true or will they break

The only difference between the 3.3 diffs and the Maxx diffs are the cases...They won't hold for long...Get the 1/8th with 6mm cvds...You could get the 1/8th scale diffs/hybrids and run the 3.3 knuckles with Revo or 3.3 cvd's instead of the UE's.

I would just get the 6mm though, if you plan on 50mph that means you are gonna have a pretty powerful set up. I can't see the 3.3 stuff last that long and you'll find yourself replacing those every few runs.

I have tested the 3.3 shafts on a neu 1512 4s setup. It has held up ok so far.
The truck weighed out at 8 lbs rtr with lipos 8000 packs. I run 40 series mulchers
as well. I am more worried about the diffs going out. Just to let peeps know.