new at this
 

hey everyone, i am a 41 year old newby at this. my 14 year old son has a truck and talked me into buying one. i have ran his alot and i can now see why there are so many people in this forum. they are a blast, well i will have my new truck in a few days and i bought a e-maxx. i ,of course can not leave anything alone, so in saying that, where should i start with mods and please be discriptive? so you know i live in a rural area and have a lot of hills and dirt around me. perfect for this. thanks alot and i appreciate all the help i can get.

First off welcome to the fourms

Next the most important thing to know before you buy anything would be a price range you would be willing to spend on your truck. If i and others know this we can better help you in your decisions.

thank you
 

thank you

What are your plans for the truck, ie cell count ect...... do you want it for racing/bashing .....if we had a little more info.....im sure alot of people would be able to help

money is not really an object

there are alot of locals racing near by and i think i would really like to participate and spank there tail.

Alright if money is not an issue/object then we have a good place to start. If you are wanting to race you will want to go Brushless mabey something like the quark controller and a Lehner motor. As far as diffs go with the FLM combo bulks and HB diffs. also go with the RC monster differential. Another suspension upgrade would be the Unlimited Engineering suspension setups. Also get the carbon fiber GorillaMaxx chassis and and carbon fiber extension. go with the Ultimate Engineering 8mm CVDS with the Dace hex hubs. Those are just some of the best stuff money can buy. Other people should chime in and give there opinions. With the right setup and a good driver you can smoke them even if they are racing nitro.

With the setup posted above you would have a VERY good truck. A Lehner 1950 6T on 14 cells maybe even 16 cells would be very fast. Pretty much you will be having 2 trucks with all the spares from your emaxx ;)

Thanks for the support just some stuff of the top on my head but of course if there are more small things involved those are just the just of them

give it all to me, i am printing all this ,so i can go shopping. hope to have the truck thursday, play on thursday night and start fabs next week.

Man your are serious ok will start on a list someone else help me with this i will help but i cant do it all on my own (BTW some of the stuff on this list might be out of stock) And you know where to buy this stuff right.

Its all in the rcmonster store. www.rc-monster.com Just looks around at the emaxx section. You should find quite some cool things in Mikes store. (Mike is the owner of the store and forum) Some things might not be listed, but you can email mike ( rcmonstermike@gmail.com ) and he can get you everything you need.

yeah i will post my version of the perfect truck but your best bet is to email mike and tell him you are not on a budget and ask him to get you everything you need to build the best truck and he will help you PLEASE ask him he is very knowledgeable and will defiantly help you

thanks guys , i will email him now

Mike is kinda swamped right now, with orders ect......so don't be suprised if he doesn't get back to you right away...sometimes takes a day to get back with you....just a FYI

Ok, personally I would go with a relatively inexpensive setup if your gonna race. Stuff like UE is nice, but if you can't justify spending $500 on there suspension, I don't blame you. I would personally go with either RPM 3.3 arms, Revo 3.3 sliders, and 3.3 knuckles, or I would go with the Integy Type 3 Pro suspension with UE 6mm CVD's. If you go with a 3.3 setup, go with the RD Racing knuckles and 8mm axle kit. It is by far the best thing to get. I like the Integy (UE Racer-X knock-off) because of the Tru-Trac rear suspension design (no rear turnbuckles). It makes for less things to break, easier to adjust, etc. Fastlane Machine aluminum shock towers are a good investment as well. They have 20 mounting positions (instead of 3 like the stockers) and have holes for a 1/8th scale buggy wing on the rear tower. Obviously, a wing will make it more stable at high speeds and fly better, plus they just look sick! Also, brushless is definately the way to go. I would choose a Neu 1515 motor. That much I can recommend, but the rest will depend on the cell count. Personally, I would go with LiPo to start off. It will be cheaper in the long run than to switch. If you do go LiPo, go with a nice 5S setup. Also, I would also recommend the Gorillamaxx G2 carbon fiber chassis (like Gorillamaxx360 recommended). That with a RC-Monster slipperential and FLM bulks is a nice setup. As for the bulks, it will depend on whether you get CVD's or sliders. If you get sliders, Combo bulks are the only way you can go. If CVD's, definately get the Hybrids. The Hybrids use 1/8th scale gears (MUCH stronger). The Combos use stock gears. The benifits of 1/8th scale gears are, A. there ALOT stronger B. they can be tuned with oil for different effects and C. they require little maintnance.

You guys are getting lazy on me :p.

email sent and thanks for everything, keep it coming jeff

i will post pics when i start this project and let you all know the list of upgrades

yea, i would get some rpm a-arms slipperencial ect...if you dont feel like doing alot of work with brushless, you can get the novak HV 4.5 system for a complete set. Lunsford tie hingepins and turnbukles.

yeah for tires i would get normal maxx dish rims and some nice badland mt's

spektrum dx2-dx3 radio

please remember that i am new at building a monster of a truck and some of the words you are using make no sense to me sorry for being ignorent to the language. what is lipo

LiPo is short for Lithium Polymer. Its a type of battery. They are far more advanced than normal batteries. Your typical batteries are NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride). LiPo deliver much better acceleration, can give rediculous runtimes, and also weigh about 1/2 of what NiMH do.

thank you , that makes sense, i bought 2 dtx4200 nimh to start out with but will look for the better battery

Heres The List
 

HERES the list ( i might have forgot a few thing but if i did not much was forgotten i even added in the type of grease necessary to fill the diffs and the oil necessary to oil the shocks every think is pretty much here if i did forget something it is most likely small and cheap because i looked at a maxx as i made this list and i went through every part at the most i am probably missing 7 things from this list for it to be ready to hit the track after its build (these 7 things might be as little as a few washers, some lubricant and other odds and ends)


ULTIMATE MAXX
1.) Unlimited Engineering Racer X suspension pro kit.
2.) Unlimited Engineering Ger 4 servo saver steering assembly
3.) Unlimited Engineering Racer X shock kit
4.) Unlimited Engineering 8mm CVDS with 23mm hex Hubs
5.) External Ubec (on RC monster)
6.) GorillaMaxx Carbon Fiber Chassis
8.) GorillaMaxx Carbon Fiber Chassis Extension
9.) GorillaMaxx Racing skids
10.) GorillaMaxx G3 Battery Straps
11.) Fast Lane Machine Hybrid Bulk Head Braces
12.) HB Lightning diffs (purchase 2)
13.) RC monster Slipperiential
14.) DUH engineering titanium shock towers (DUH engineering.com)
15.) Revo slipper pressure plate
16.) Revo slipper rebuild kit
17.) Revo 36t spur gear
18.) Proline 23mm standard size Maxx rims
19.) Proline crime fighter standard size tires
20.) Proline medium blend glue
21.) RC Screwz E-Maxx screw kit
22.) ACER Racing E-Maxx Bearing Kit
23.) Lehner 1950/6 high amp motor
24.) 20150 Brushless speed control
25.) Maxx amps (purchase 2) 8000 mah 2 cell lipo batteries
26.) Hitec 5955TG titanium gear servo
27.) Spectrum DX3.0 Radio
28.) RC monster Heat sink
29.) (2) 40mm fans
30.) 70 weight shock oil
31.) Associated black grease
32.) RPM bumper with plastic stock E-Maxx mounts
33.) Durtraxx ice charger
34.) Ofna 12v power supply for charger
35.) 8 AA batteries for radio
36.) misc wrenches like hex wrenches
37.) and a 15t pinion get a higher pinion for more speed (this pinion will get you in the 30s)
38.) Unlimited Engineeting VBS bulk set
39.) Proline power strokes

That is all i can think of YOU WILL HAVE TONS OF FUN AND IF YOU ARE A GOOD DRIVER WITH THIS SETUP YOU WILL SMOKE THE GUYS YOU ARE RACING WITH :027: :027: :027:

does theLiPo batteries require a special charger? i have a duratrax intellipeak twin pulse charger.

scratch that question, gorillamaxx just answered my question

yes they do thats why i listed the ice charger also squee is right if you don't want to spend all that cash on Unlimited Engineering that is understandable i know i would not but i am on a semi tight budget (that's different) But he is right you can get the best racer setup for about mabey 3/4 the price of all the things i have listed i was just trying to give you the best for bashing (because you live in the country) and the best of racing also you could go more racey themed if you dropped the Unlimited Engineering and went for lighter stuff i just figured with a non limited budget you can still win with a bit heaver arms than stock(thats why i chose UE) and have the indestructibleness of UE also if you did not want to spend so much money check out serums lightweight maxx HERE that is lighter and a good racer but is not as blinigish and or as indestructible but is way cheaper

To be honest, a Quark 125B would be a better ESC than the 20150...

Personally, id reccomend the Super Brain 989. It has better specs and comes with a power supply. For 140, it isnt much more expensive than the ICE, plus you would still need a power supply for the ice.

went to unlimited eng. and they have it all. looks like with all of your help i may have one nice truck and give my visa a work out thanks alot and keep the info coming. all of you are great and very appreciated

One more thing...If you can afford it, the UE VBS is definately the way to go, especially for a racer, but the FLM Hybrids are definately the next best thing. The UE VBS aren't a direct replacement type thing. Don't get me wrong, they are made just for the Maxx, but they aren't designed just like stock except there a bulkless design like the FLM. They have a special kick-up designed into them so they make it handle better (more caster). They are by far the best, but $140 for the FLM vs. $350+ for the UE, you deside. I, if I had the money, would choose hte UE towerless VBS with Ti. skids...The towered are nice, but not worth the extra money. Not to mention, the towerless allow you to use the shock towers of your choice. I would choose FLM or DUH! Oh! One big thing that I over-looked. Shocks...DEFINATELY get the Proline Powerstroke By-Pass shocks. There the best money can buy...and not that expensive...

I was waiting for you to mention those :005: :027: Yes, very good shocks.

Oh, I would also add the Racer-X set back rear arms and Racer-X high impact front arms (if you can get the high impact arms).

yes my mistake i will update the list powerstrokes are the best i over looked that

ULTIMATE MAXX
1.) Unlimited Engineering Racer X suspension pro kit.
2.) Unlimited Engineering Ger 4 servo saver steering assembly
3.) Unlimited Engineering Racer X shock kit
4.) Unlimited Engineering 8mm CVDS with 23mm hex Hubs
5.) External Ubec (on RC monster)
6.) GorillaMaxx Carbon Fiber Chassis
8.) GorillaMaxx Carbon Fiber Chassis Extension
10.) GorillaMaxx G3 Battery Straps
11.) Fast Lane Machine Hybrid Bulk Head Braces
12.) HB Lightning diffs (purchase 2)
13.) RC monster Slipperiential
14.) DUH engineering titanium shock towers (DUH engineering.com)
15.) Revo slipper pressure plate
16.) Revo slipper rebuild kit
17.) Revo 36t spur gear
18.) Proline 23mm standard size Maxx rims
19.) Proline crime fighter standard size tires
20.) Proline medium blend glue
21.) RC Screwz E-Maxx screw kit
22.) ACER Racing E-Maxx Bearing Kit
23.) Lehner 1950/6 high amp motor
24.) Quark 125B brushless controller
25.) Maxx amps (purchase 2) 8000 mah 2 cell lipo batteries
26.) Hitec 5955TG titanium gear servo
27.) Spectrum DX3.0 Radio
28.) RC monster Heat sink
29.) (2) 40mm fans
30.) 70 weight shock oil
31.) Associated black grease
32.) RPM bumper with plastic stock E-Maxx mounts
33.) Durtraxx ice charger
34.) Ofna 12v power supply for charger
35.) 8 AA batteries for radio
36.) misc wrenches like hex wrenches
37.) and a 15t pinion get a higher pinion for more speed (this pinion will get you in the 30s)
38.) Unlimited Engineeting VBS bulk set
39.) Proline power strokes


I updated the list does it seem to be pretty good now or what else should i change (how close is it t done) -Note i made this in 10 min so thats why i mised some stuff SORRY

ULTIMATE MAXX
1.) Unlimited Engineering Racer X suspension pro kit.
2.) Unlimited Engineering Ger 4 servo saver steering assembly
3.) Proline power strokes
4.) Unlimited Engineering 8mm CVDS with 23mm hex Hubs
5.) External Ubec (on RC monster)
6.) GorillaMaxx Carbon Fiber Chassis
8.) GorillaMaxx Carbon Fiber Chassis Extension
10.) GorillaMaxx G3 Battery Straps
11.) Fast Lane Machine Hybrid Bulk Head Braces
12.) HB Lightning diffs (purchase 2)
13.) RC monster Slipperiential
14.) DUH engineering titanium shock towers (DUH engineering.com)
15.) Revo slipper pressure plate
16.) Revo slipper rebuild kit
17.) Revo 36t spur gear
18.) Proline 23mm standard size Maxx rims
19.) Proline crime fighter MTR standard size tires
20.) Proline medium blend glue
21.) RC Screwz E-Maxx screw kit
22.) ACER Racing E-Maxx Bearing Kit
23.) Neu 1515 1y/F
24.) Quark 125B
25.) Max amps (purchase 2) 8000 mah 2 cell lipo batteries
26.) Hitec 5955TG titanium gear servo
27.) Nomadio React
28.) RC monster Heat sink
29.) (2) 40mm fans
30.) 70 weight shock oil
31.) Associated black grease
32.) RPM bumper with plastic stock E-Maxx mounts
33.) MRC Superbrain 989
34.) Unlimited Engineeting towerless VBS
35.) 8 AA batteries for radio
36.) misc wrenches like hex wrenches
37.) and a 15t pinion get a higher pinion for more speed (this pinion will get you in the 30s)

I made a few changes...

Man it lookes like i did pretty well i did not see that many changes the Other radio wont really help with performance 1newmax but is jsut a personal prefrence. I like the end result (of the list).:027:

Yea. I only changed a few things. You left UE shocks, I changed the ESC, motor, and charger.

I've heard that RC Screws is not the way to go. Infact, I would give Tonys Screws a try. I use Tonys on my E-Maxx and the screws are just awesome!

Josh :028:

P.S This thread is helping me out a lot for my E-Maxx :005:

yeah i do like the quark better but i figured the 20150 was a better controller because it was more expensive but yes the Quark was my second option. The Power stroke shocks are much better than UE so that was a pretty justified change. AS for the Neu and Lehner swap is was a preference kind of thing but with either motor he will be happy the Neu has better cooling and the Lehner is just a little more overpriced and has a tad more in the performance section