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CVDS and diff's
wich would you guys think are the best and strongest?
monster truck size that is, and ofcourse they have to go together. many tanks<= lol @ spelling. |
HB Diffs and 6mm UE cvds work good togeather and they are bullet proof
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hb diffs also and id go with mips...
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UE 8 spiders and UE 6 spiders with hardened gears.
You can also get the FLM bulkless with HB or UE diffs. with UE cvd's. |
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spiders are nice but pricey but if you can afford them go for it.
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Alternative to duable diffs are HB pro diffs.
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oh crap, ya'll thinkin it has to fit a maxx huh?
its actually for something custom. and the CVDS need to be 8mm for ease of finding bearings. but i see alot of supermaxx here, would them 8mm ones be the best you can go to? and the 8 spiders? |
Pretty much yea.
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what bout lst2 stuff, any good?:032:
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don't fit the 1/8th housings.
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doesnt need to.
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other than that; good diffs.
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oh yes, would i really need plastic spur for center direct driven diff?
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That would be wise, unless you can find a true hardened pinion.
Taking a plastic spur is proven tough. |
like a clutchbell?
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Too heavy. And most likely not as durable as a plastic spur/pinion.
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so i basicly need to stick to kyosho then.
ok, many thanks guys |
and yet another question:
what do you think of 14mm hex hubs, are they up to the task of serious bashing? i dont mean whimpy plastic ones, but alu or even steel ones. |
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I use the FLM with UE diffs, never had a problem!!
Jolly-if you can, use the dace 23mm adaptors. I use the 14mm alum hax on my girls truck and they are wearing the rim hex indent. |
what bout 17mm, strong enough?:032:
i tough so the 14mm ones wouldnt hold up. thanks newe. |
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dace's have 22mill nuts, dont they?
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yes, the 23 are 22mm, you can go to any sears or whatever to get the socket and not pay 29.00 for a wrench
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to bad, i already have the 30 euro's wrench. stupid me.:007:
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yeah, hehe.mmmmmmm dace :004:
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yet another question,
are hpi savage diff's the same size as 7.5 diff's or are they bigger? |
one more; hb pro diffs are the same size and fitments as kyosho/ ofna?
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Yups, they are the same.. And it's time to share us your project now jolly.. We answered about 269 questions.. Are you in the race of designing your own truck or are you going for a gmaxx?
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i'm actually trying to learn as much as possible.
to do what i want i think i'd need help big time. any one wants to volunteer? you would have to know CAD/CAM and CNC?!? and ofcourse not be to far away. thanks guys. |
What is your experience with trucks/mt's/truggies? you are better off with getting a truck to observe and see how it handles, what you like and don't like, combine that in a design you like. I have got no idea what you are driving currently.
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good point, i may need to get some new big truck then.
but wich? i dont know. |
If you like to convert one yourself, an LST can be bought in Germany with a very good receiver/transmitter/servo combo..
If you like a 'ready to rock and no need to cut your own parts solution', the e-revo might be a nice choice. It's hard to built a truck that handles that well though.. |
could get an lst2 from mcm.
is 685€ good price? just asking, not that i'd get an lst2 i think. |
i'll spill it, i'm thinkin of a solid axle truck, shaft driven( not like a clod).
with spools in its center and F/R=> changeable to 3 diffs.:004: meanly for crawling and so on. but, it should be able to do mild bashing aswell. but i just dont have the skills to do it.:013: as for now. maybe i gotta wait another year or so. in that time i may have learned working with a mill and a lathe. |
yet another one,
with hb diff's and ue cvds; does one need ue outdrives? i read somewhere on the forum that the pins on ue cvds are longer then standard?!? many thanks. |
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