e-maxx user looking to go brushless need opinions
 

I have my e-maxx which has a g1 single speed conversion, steel idlers, and ue rear cvds. Ill be runnign 14 cells which are ib3800's (2x7 cell packs). Ive looked at the hv novak stuff and thought about it but it limits me for upgrading in the future. I have also thought of the 9920/9xl setup which seems preety common and decent. I really like the mamba maxx esc cause you can program it via pc and its a few bucks cheaper. What are your guys opinoins and suggestions of what I should do. Im looking to stay right under $300 for esc and motor cause i'm preety sure ill need center cvds and have to beef up my rear diff. Thanks.

Welcome to the forums!

The 9920/9XL C-Series (or 8XL-C would be my preference) would be a great buy. Don't forget a UBEC as well.

I just ordered the Mamba Maxx and a Neu 1515/1Y motor plus the UBEC. But I debated the 9920 & 8XL for over a week. It's a very good combo and a great price plus you won't be limited by the ESC since you can do 14, 16, or even 18 cells with the 9920.

BTW...go for the UE 6mm CVD's when it comes time to upgrade!

***In case your wondering why I went with the Mamba Maxx vs the 9920.....I'll be upgrading to the Monster Mamba Max when it comes out and moving the MM to a 1/10 Scale truck plus moving from GP's to Li-Po's.

In My opinon go with the mamba maxx i just like it more and the computer programming and it is a mamba product that is why prefer it.

Procharged - time to change your sig from "Brushless upgrade coming soon!" to "Brushless Powered" :D

I'd say a 7XL and MM would be a good choice (you will also need a UBEC). Ordering from Mike, all can be had for about $250

@BP-Revo-Thanks for the reminder!

@Burnsomenitro-and don't forget to order a pinion gear if you need one!

What do the different numbers on the C-Series xl motors? I think its the number of turns but not sure. What does a ubec do? Also are their any limitations on the mamba maxx esc? Regard rhe limitations on the mm esc its rated for 12 cells and im 14 so it wont work.

The numbers refer to the number of turns. The 8XL rotates 2084 RPM per volt applied (w/no load). so for 14 cells @ 1.2v per cell (just for example) you end up with 35,011 rpm. That's in the "sweet spot" for the motor.

The UBEC (ultimate battery eliminator) is needed to supply power to the servos & receiver plus it keeps heat out of the ESC by reducing the work the ESC needs to do to supply the electronics with 5-6v.

The mamba maxx is limited to 12 cells (14 is ok too but "beyond it's specs")

The current rating is 100 amps which is fine.

Serum wrote a beginners guide to brushless. I'll see if I can find it for you. It's quite well written and explains alot!

Here is the link:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5115

Ok I read over that thread but I still have a few questions. Whats the difference between the Feigao 540C XL Brushless Motors and Feigao/Nemesis/Wanderer "XL" Brushless Motors? I believe you were talking about the 540C motors. What kind of speed will I be looking at with your suggested motors? On the 9920 description it says 3Amp.BEC on/off function, what does that do?

The C-Series have a finned can for better cooling and a screw on end bell vs pressed. The C-Series stay together, the std. versions have been known to "spill their guts" on the track after a hard wreck or landing. That can be overcome by using the RC-Monster heat sink/motor clamp for $24.

It is best not to use the BEC on the ESC. It add more heat to the ESC. Basically the ESC has to take your 14v batteries and drop that voltage to 6 volts for the servos, receiver, etc. It does so by converting/burning off the excess voltage which heats up the esc. That is why the UBEC is hugely popular. Less heat....happier and better performing ESC!

For speeds, plug your info into Brians Calculator. It depends on batteries, truck weight, gearing, etc.

Link:
http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed.html

About what gearing should I start with if I went with the 8xl if thats the better choice? Does anyone happen to know the tire diameter of the stock e-maxx tires?

With my soon to be released HSR Motorsports SLipper Kit, I'd select a 18T pinion and a 52T spur. (Same goes for the Strobe)

That would get you into the Low 40's (assuming good batteries and a well maintained truck)

With a RRP Slipper 66T/22T or 66T/24T would work. if you can get a 64T spur (I can't remember for sure) 62/22 should be fine.

Do you think I should upgrade the slipper clutch?

You could get away with the RR one, but the strobe one is supposed to be really nice.

I use the RR one cause I couldn't justify ~50 bucks on a slipper...

What exactly do you need with the strobe slipper?

Stock maxx pressure plates, friction surfaces (steel rings), spring & nut. then you buy the Strobe Slipper and the Ofna spur.

Or you buy my HSR Slipper thru Mike @ RC-Monster as soon as they are available in a few weeks. They will outperform the strobe and offer more gearing choices.

What are we looking at for price on the HSR Slipper? Is there any information on it I can read? Are the Integy diff cases made by GA or are they different companies? Should I upgrade the bulkheads too? If I should, would doing only the rear diff and bulkhead be ok?

Double post sry idk what happened.

What are we looking at for price on the HSR Slipper?

Pricing is yet to be determined but I anticipate $75 dollars for the HP 2-Speed version, $50 for the Standard 2-Speed Version, and roughly $7-10 less for the single speed versions.

Is there any information on it I can read? Not yet. Spec sheets will be made in the next week or two and photos should be availble by Monday.

Are the Integy diff cases made by GA or are they different companies? The GA's are 10 times bettr made than the Integy's. Better material, better machining, better hardware, and the GA's include all the set-up shims.

Should I upgrade the bulkheads too? If I should, would doing only the rear diff and bulkhead be ok?

I thinks so. The FLM or GA bulks are nice. If you have the $$$ buy the FLM combo diff/bulk w/ the 1/8 scales diffs. Or maybe I'll sell you my GA's bulks, diffs, FLM diffcups, etc. and upgrade to the FLM's Who knows.....we could talk if your interested.

Do the FLM combo bulks have the diff cases built into them? Where are these 1/8 scale diffs?

Yes the cases are built in. And the strobe comes with everything you need except the pressure plate and stuff. It comes with the bearing and all that, see the description for that you need, there are also directions stickied. This is your best bet!
the 9920 or MM with an 8xl will be good. A 9xl, you would have to over gear it to get speed, a 7xl IMO gets less run time than the 8xl, and the 8xl should run cooler.

HB makes 1/8 scales diffs as does OFNA. unlimited engineering has typically used/sold Ofna's and the HB's are newer to the market but seem to be holding up well.

Troy,

The maximum holding power of my slipper will be greater than that of the strobe. The maximum toque the input shaft will hold or tolerate be greater on mine as well.

I may be able to offer different slipper pads (varying friction coefficients) but that part of the project is still in it's infancy.

But yes, the Strobe is great....I just wanted to design one that was one step better!

Very good Procharged, btu the strobe is already out! LOL :)

minor details..............:027:

It seems that there always are! LOL, WELCOME TO RCING! HAHAHAHAHA:005:
But, if you are using the gmaxx chassis, the sliperential is top notch!!!

But as Pro said, you can either go UE 1/8th diffs, or the HB's. If you are using the 1/8th scale, you need the hybrid bulks I believe, not the combo's. Both are designed the same with the case built in.

Thanks for all the info ill look at this stuff and think it out. This is a lot of money so I want to make sure its what I want to do. I have one more year of high school and then college so im not 100% set on this idea. Are any of you guys in college? I dont see any 1/8th scale diffs on UE's websight. I see the Hot Bodies diffs on here that are 1/8th. Whats the difference between the two on here. Do the hybird bulks come apart or are they one solid piece?

Nope. Graduated a while back...............

Did u have time and a place to run your rc cars? Did anyone ever say anything to you cause some people think its a waste of munny and stupid. I love rc cars but going brushless in my e is a little more over my head. What if I sold my e and my nitro rustler and got a e-stampede or rustler and did brushless in them?

Tough to answer.

A stadium truck would be cheaper both on the base truck, batteries, and the brushless system.

I prefer monster trucks so I'd vote for keeping the maxx and buying a Warrior 9920 (or mamba maxx) with a UBEC and Feigao 8XL. Cost would be $290 w/pinion gear. Not too bad.

If you need a power boost swap out the motors! I have a set I'll sell you cheap. They are brand new 550 cans (never used) with 156watt rating vs stock 119watt titans. That's a 30% boost in power and would be a cheap bolt-on! That's what I was going to do and then deceided to invest in a brushless system. It's an option anyway and you could keep your EVX controller but pick up some power and speed.

I still need the following in order to handle brushless: center cvd's, front cvd's, new slipper, front & rear diffs (seems the best way to go is hybird w/1/8th scale diffs which isnt much more than just diffs). Thats about 450 in parts and then another 260 for motor/esc/ubec. Total of 710. I love mt's but mostly everything around me is flat. Me and my neighbors built a go-kart track and running on its fun but the stadium truck would be better.

It's not cheap.

You could buy a Losi Brushless RTR stadium truck for roughly half but then the truck is more dedicated to racing. Would that work for you?

Not really I would end up breaking one of those Losi's. I drive real hard and can barely keep my e running now so I know if I go brushless I will need to upgrade everything. Also I have the stock e tires and wheels so they would probaly have to go too.

Well, U want to play....you gotta pay!

Not sure what else to tell you. The maxx is awesome! Not as fast as my Revo3.3(yet anyway) but still awesome. I wouldn't even think of getting rid of it!

Keep your maxx an work on upgrading as you can.

I think I could get it upgraded in about a month if I sell some stuff. Should I get the hb 1/8th scale diffs and ue's hybird bulks or ue's 8 spyder set (I would need 2) and combo bulks? Or what are your suggestions.

Nevermind my parents dont want me spending that much money on my e so I will have to go another route like a smaller truck. What truck would u reccomend me to look at? Maybe as a kit so its cheaper and I can put what I want in it.

Ok well back to my question. Should I get the hb 1/8th scale diffs and ue's hybird bulks or ue's 8 spyder set (I would need 2) and combo bulks? Do the hybird bulks come apart or are they one piece? Or what are your suggestions.

The better value of the two in my opinion is the HB diffs & the FLM hybrid bulks.

They separate in half, check out the pictures.

i have the hb diffs with flm hybrids and they work awesomely. i have never had a problem with them



the hybrids split right in half

I think you need hybrid bulks with either diff.

You could get the UE ultralite diffs w/6spider diffs. That might save a few $.

I dont see a pic of the hybirds in half. Will the 6 spyder diffs hold up to brushless? I like them more cause the drive cups are more secure and will work better with my ue driveshafts. I thought the UE diffs were 1/10th scale?