1940 or hi amp, no stock?
 

when will you mike get the 1940-6 in stock?
is it worth going hi amp? how much more power will it give?

thanks
I cant wait to get this motor :005:

I too am looking for the 1940, but 8 wind, so you're not alone! :)

I think the only difference between the hi-amp and regular is the construction. The regular ones let you switch between delta and wye, while the hi-amp motors are non-changeable for the least amount of resistance.

i believe your correct BrianG

Yes, dead on Brian..

Delta and Wye are not an option on the high-amps. the lower turns (4-5 turns) are not available with the 3.5mm plugs, they are only available in high-amp.

the reason for high-amp is the internal resistance. The performance should be better, but the differences are negligible. the 3.5 plugs are a PITA though, they are too small to hold the wires properly.. you need good plugs..

I agree. Hi amp is worth the extra $$. The 3.5mm plugs on the standard are not the best solution. They dont hold as tight as I would like. The Hi-Amp option gives you bare wires on the back of the can that you can attach whatever plugs you want. 4mm and 5.5mm are much more apropriate choices IMO.

BTW: Im waiting for the 1950/6 Hi-Amp to come into stock.

I usually hardwire the controller's wires to the 3.5 connectors of the 19 series. It's much better using it than those blood seething connectors.

Yeah, i heard from Daf, that you can directly solder the 3.5 sockets on the wires.. That's what you did, right?

I directly sautered esc wires to my 1950 hi-amp.

You mean just sloder the wires into the 3.5mm sockets on the back of the non-high amp version of the 1940 motor? I thought about doing it but I was afraid of melting a connection inside the motor or something and causing other problems. If you have done this can you post a picture? I have been wondering if this would work, but have been to chicken to try it yet. Plus once you try soldering it directly to the 3.5mm sockets getting all of the solder out again so the 3.5mm plug would work properly is not likely so there is no turning back once you do it.

If someone has proven this works without melting something else in the soldering process I'm gonna do it. I hate the 3.5mm sockets.:mad:1

Jhautz; Me too, i am affraid i will cause a 'cold soldering spot' i don't know what the english word for it is, but it means that one part of the tin gets melted, while the other part isn't..

That's exactly what kept me from doing it.. A good way to keep the plugs in safely is use heatshrink that comes with glue inside..

Good Idea. I will have to try that.


I actually think that the Quark I smoked was due to one of those 3.5mm plugs comming slightly loose while I was running. IMO those are the worse part of the Lehner motors and in the future I will only buy the High Amp version so I can solder to the wires with no worries.

Yeah, i was planning on doing it.. I don't know what plugs you are using, but there is quite a difference between 3.5 plugs and 3.5 plugs.. while some are loose as heck, others are nice and tight..

I dont know either. I got them at the LHS in airplane section. They were Max brand. Looked like genaric packaging to me.

I see variation in the fit from plug to plug out of the same pack. On will fit nice and tight, and the next one will seem a little sloppy on the socket. One thing for sure though, its variation in the plug. If a plug fits tight, it fits tight in any socket. And if it fit sloppy, it fits sloppy in any socket. 4mm are so much better because they are alot longer. I actually like them better tha the 5.5mm. I feel alot of variation in the 5.5mm also. Not as bad as the 3.5, but its there.

The 5.5's can be made tighter quite easy; just use a the back of a drill or suck, to spread it a little more..

SO i guess now that we covered that, the only real question left is when will the Lehner motors be back in stock?

But I would still like to hear from CaptainH about soldering directly to the 3.5mm sockets.

The 2 motors in one is a nice feature some times though.
The hi amps are nice though for the soldering option.

Well you’re in luck people:) I have a 1930 that I smoked and I’ll try to solder it for you guys to see if it works

Can you even get a hi amp 1940-6 turn?
if so how do i get one from mike if its not listed in the drop down box? do i email him?

Yeah, you can drop Mike an email, he sure can get you a 1940/6 high-amp.

It will work, that's for sure, but the question is if the soldering points inside won't get weak.

As you can see the solder around the base of the socket was already melted due to when I smoked the motor, it got so hot you couldn’t touch the can and the label started to shrink, in a way it was very easy to solder I only used a very cheap 20watt ion BUT and a big BUT I use to service audio and visual equipment for years so I do have experience in soldering, I cleaned the inside of the socket because it was tarnished from the heat damage when it blew up and I applied some of my flux I used for service and tinned the socket, twisted the wire and inserted the wire while the socket was heated with the ion I applied flux and more solder.
It did a nice job I have tested the connection with my service meter and found no noticeable change in impedance the only thing I haven’t tested is the impedance under a massive current draw because the motor winds are burnt lol :035:
Don’t worry about that brown muck it just the excess flux.

Hope this helps


http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/4...ldering0gy.jpg

I'm very sorry I did not respond faster, my friend Jeff.

Yes, I've soldered the soket plugs to the wires directly and it worked perfectly. I used the 1920/8 stock can, but I prefer the hi-amp like the 1950/10 I have where soldering is much easier. You need a soldering iron of atlease 60W if you need clean and fast soldering with a chesil tip for fast heat transfer. Using a soldering iron without the chisel tip even if it was 100w strong, is gonna cause a SCHIZOPHRENIC MELTING!!! where part of the solder is successfully molten in one place and the other part did not.

Hayden, is that an HPI touring car?

What speeds have you achieved?

I've never seen the back of these motors; are those solder pads covered on the non-hiamp version? Or are they normally exposed?

The are exposed brian. No cover unless some one makes one.

Thanks. I'm glad I asked. I was thinking of getting one of those simply because it's like having two motors in one, but I would definitely have to fab some kind of insulative cover. I'm funny that way.

I imagine the hi-amp version is different since it doesn't have those solder points?

Yeah it has three wires out the back. Just heat shrink them and you covered.

Hayden and Captain.... Thanks for the info. I really glad that this appears to work and not cause any other problems. The way I see it is I will solder 3 wires into the sockets and then solder proper connectors on the end. I'll use it like the high amp version. Once these are soldered into the sockets they will never be removed. If I need to change the connector I'll just change the connector on the end of the wire.

Hayden, Thanks for the pictures. In one of them it appears that there is solder in the socket but no wire. It looks like a connector I had once that the wire pulled out because of a bad solder job. Is that what you are showing? Also, can you measure the resistance of the soldered socket vs one of the others with a 3.5mm plug in it. Just looking to find out if there is a measureable improvement.

Captian, I'm assuming you have run your motor with no issues after soldering directly to the sockets. Did you solder in the same fashion. Fill the socket with solder? I'm asking because it seems like it would require alot of heat to get the solder to flow into the soket and the wire and get a good solid connection. I have a 60watt iron w/chisel tip I plan to use. But even with that when soldering connectors onto wires it seems to take alot of heat and I am worried about melting a connection I shouldnt.

I just fill the soket plugs with solder and tin the wires with solder, too.

That's why you need to use a very capable soldering iron with high watt rate and large flat tip.

Those sokets seem very dogmatic when you use normal soldering iron, and I almost destroyed one of the sokets with my pie** of **#t 40w Weller iron.
Although my 60w Goot iron has a pointed head tip, the solder was easily molten( but went through the " schizophrenic melting"), though the process would've been many times better with a high end soldering system with a chesil tip.

Lol, it is VERY difficult to measure resistances that low. If anything, you'll get inaccuracies from the meter leads and where the probes contact the surface. You really need a conductance meter for something like that (which is just 1/resistance),

It’s a highly modified colt I posted it here http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=126108 that’s a while ago it has changed quite a bit since then.
I don’t know the speed of it, I purchased a radar gun but I’m still waiting for it :026: all I know is I can only go about half throttle because it goes so fast I haven’t found a flat road that’s long enough yet.


As brianG kind of said you wont notice a difference
The meter doesn’t pick up any changes of the plugs vs solder joints BUT I haven’t tested it under load the resistance will change with current draw….but as to how much?

So what you are saying is your equipment isnt good enough.:018:

:dft012:

lol, no I don't think so...although I don't have a conductance meter (poo). What I'm saying is when you're dealing with single-digit milliohms, meter probes and even the probe wire will contribute to bad readings. Just the contacts of the banana plugs and the probe tips have a higher resistance that that! And I'm not about to solder my probes to whatever I'm measuring! ;)

I’ve got a cap meter that is so fine you could change the capacitance of the probes by breathing on them:027:

Don't breath then! :p

Comparing the 1940-6 and the 1940-6 hi amp
how much heavier is the hi amp version?

The same weight. Only difference is the weight of the soket plugs.

What’s the difference inside? Will I gain more power/torque (what ever you call it) if I go the lowest turn you can get in a 1940 hi amp?

Just to clarify this: lower turns = more rpm but lower power? Can you get the lost power back from the rpm via gearing?

So I soldered up my 1940 with 12gauge wires soldered righ into the 3.5mm sockets. It looks like it should be good. I cant test it though. I had a set of 5.5mm connectors that I soldered onto the new motor wires and on the controller.Turns out one of the female sockets is undersize and the plug wont go in. Its the wierdest thing. Its like the forgot to make the final cut on the inside before they sent it out for plating. Anyway, no big deal, but its preventing me from finding out if I messed anything up with the motor untill a new set of 5.5 plugs comes in. I ordered them, but they probably wont get here till monday/tuesday next week.

In the mean time, heres a picture of how it turned out and I'll let you know how it runs when I get the new plugs in. Thanks for all the tips guys!

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...z/CIMG1653.jpg

Doesn't the hi-amp use direct motor wires vs connectors?

Yes. That is what makes it better. You arent stuck w/ the 3.5mm plugs like on the standard.

The Lehner looks great.

I nearly bought one.......deceided on the NEU (as you know). It should arrive Thursday or Friday.

Now I have to get the rest of the truck put together!

Oh, BTW, Nice heat shrink job!