|
X-Maxx Project (Long but please read)
OK guys it is time. I have been saving money and collecting parts for 2 years and I have still about a half of a year but I will show you what I have got now. Here it is.
I decided to go with this conversion because of the strength and durability and the looks. It all came down to this conversion or the GorillaMaxx conversion with combo bulks and slipperential. I decided to go with this FLM conversion with hybrids and HB diffs for many reasons. The first reason is because my car is an E-Maxx and I feel my car is suitable to bash and race but more so to bash, so I chose these parts to represent this. (No offense to those of you racers with E-Maxx and the gmaxx chassis because I love to race and I love the look of your car and it will probably keep up with other nitro truggys on the track. Reason two I decided to go with this because it was cheaper I know I already had 600 to start with but it would take a lot of weeks to get the extra stuff that I would need to get the gmaxx conversion ready,( for example 100 bucks more in diffs, 120 more in CVDs, 70 more in knuckles, 80 more on shocks, 20 more on oil and lube, 40 more on skids, 20 more on hinge pins, and a few other small stuff) this stuff would easily equal over 450 extra dollars and with what I chose now I got all of this stuff at the sacrifice of the performance and looks from the gmaxx and slipperential combo. I know to some this may be only 450 but with my allowance at 10 bucks a week it would take 45 weeks almost a year. Reason three “I Want to drive this thing” and the less cash I spend on performance I can use on getting it ready all I need not to get this thing running is a single speed transmission, motor, CVDs, batteries, and radio. And this means with the money I save on these I can put in to getting it running. Fourth reason I feel with the other setup I will notice a difference in performance but unfortunately I will be racing on-road, which means am I going to tell as much of a difference as I would on off road. Plus I will be racing nitro Revos, truggys, and T-Maxx. And when you race on tight street tracks the car matters but it all come down to the driver. With this said I believe my self that I will be able to win if I have more time to practice than if I had the extra performance (this is what I mean – guy races for 5 months with my car, diff guy comes around with gmaxx and slipperential (both guys start out racing for the first time one just 5 months before the other) the guy with my car wins and the other says why does he win when I have a way better car. The guy explains that he has 5 more months of experience than him and if they both practice at the same time he is always 5 months more experienced better. In my situation I believe this because I believe if I race with my car now for a whole summer I will race better next season than if I waited until next season to start but I started with a better car.). Also I feel that I my self am a bad driver and the gmaxx will not make as much of a difference as it would with somebody better like RC-Monster Mike. Enough of that let me http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...0/P1010023.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...P1010028-1.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...P1010029-1.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...P1010031-1.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...0/P1010034.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...0/P1010038.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...0/P1010045.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...0/P1220006.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...0/P1220005.jpg |
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...0/P1220004.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...0/P1220003.jpg tell you what I have here. 1.) FLM chassis 2.) FLM combo Bulks 3.) FLM bulk braces 4.) FLM shock towers 5.) HB diffs 6.) Punisher turnbuckles 7.) GorillaMaxx skids 8.) GorillaMaxx battery straps 9.) Traxxas big bore shocks 10.) Flextek titanium arms 11.) Quark 125B 12.) Hitec HSC5955 servo 13.) Stormer Hobbies wing Mounts 14.) GS truggy wing Some things to come 1.) Spektrum DX3.0 radio (getting for 100 bucks-good deal- if not for this deal I would get a nomadio) 2.) G1 single speed conversion 3.) Steel idler 4.) Rc monster heat sink motor 5.) RC monster heat sink esc 6.) Mamba monster maxx motor 7.) Maxamps 8000mah batteries 8.) UE 6mm CVDs Also from doing this project I have made many mistakes like I have purchased/ or been given the wrong things for my project that I thought would work but they either did not fit or were not up to speed on their quality. These items include Tsais CVDs or Revo $70, MSR5 Integy shocks $120, 17mm Ofna hexes $25, and Revo aluminum Integy knuckles $55 bucks. I know it is said but I have all these items and they all have never been used just sitting around collecting dust that is well over 200 bucks in stuff that I can not use I hope to sell it if not that will be some extras that I can not use, I also have the parts to build 2 E-Maxx stock rollers minus three stets of bulkheads. these items are just some of the parts i can not use. http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...0/P1010036.jpg Out of all of this I say I have learned a lot and I thank you guys so much for all your help and I would name some of you guys but there is so many so special thanks for all and if you actually read all of this thanks tell me what you guys think. THANKS A TON GUYS.:004: |
Looks VERY nice gorilla. Glad to see you FINALLY started your project! :)
|
Looks like you made the right choice after all of the research you did:018: I am sure that you will have a blast running it!
Question, why can't you use the revo cvds, knuckles, and ofna 17mm hex's? Would it not make it like the 3.3 maxx? All you need is t-maxx 3.3 turnbuckles... Bye:018: |
looks great, keep us informed
|
This goes to cemetery gates
the tsais cvd at the end where the ball like thing with the pin in it is and that goes into the ballcup. Well the ball part of the cvd is to thick and it wont fit inside of the hb diff cup and i can not use the diff cups that come with the tsais ones because the the hb diffs dont allow you to change the end of the diff cup, the other reason i will chose not to use them is because many people seem to have problems with these breaking and i dont want to take a chance so i will sell them unsued and just buy some 6mm cvds but man they do look cool. |
does anybody know what the stock shock oil weight the big bores come with because it seems the shocks are a little stiff or maby it is suppose to be that way. i can drop it from 5 feet and get minimal maby a centemeter or so of bounce and even then it is almost not noticable but when i push the front down while sitting still it apperars to be somewhat stiff. is the shocks suppose to be this way for norman bashing and jumping. also the shock seems when compressed on the truck fron a 5 feet drop droops about and 1 inch from bottoming out and then it raises back up but it is still about and 1inch ro 2 lower than when the shocks where before a drop. does this sound normal BTW I love these shocks way better in quality than the integys and half the price .
|
The stock weight is 30wt.
Bigbores are nice ; id think stock oil would be to soft, you will see the difference once everything is on the truck, than you will need 45 or 50 wt oil. |
Well it looks good so far. Hope the cvds work out for you.
|
Looks good, but I hate to tell you that you are going to be bending hingepins all over the place without a VBS setup.
|
what do you mean bending a bunch of higne pins i will be bashing but not jumping anything more than 7 ft or so at the most and then that will be very rare, i am using ti higne pins so i guess they are good most of my driving will be on flat ground anyway.
|
You will see...
I've bent so many Titanium Hingepins on my E-Maxx it isn't even funny... Thats probably 40% of the reason I got my G2R lol... |
what where you jumping.
Is there anything here you guys do to prevent this |
Quote:
relax pinolelst |
Well actually I'd rather all the force go into the arms because they will never break. If they do, they get replaced for free. On top of that, they flex and absorb some impact, so that helps as well.
I was at the track doing small jumps. Most I got was 4 feet of air and maybe 7 feet distance. It wasn't anything spectacular, but none the less it bent the hingepins like butter. |
wow so how does racers and other racers like for example at the rc monster bash keep from their hinge pins getting bent. Those i mean that dont have vbs, i saw that track they raced at they easly got over 7ft on some of the jumps do they just jump good or do they just go the whole day on bent hinge pins after the first lap is that what i exext do do when i get home it pull out hinge pins if i go to an outdoor rc track and hit the jumps and do the laps.
|
thanks guys keep the comments comming (ps check my cool new signiture they are my favorite websites.)
|
Wow, that should be a very nice truck when all the rest of the goodies comes together~~~~
|
That is a nice looking ride. Those pics look so good it makes me just want to reach in to my computer and drive it somehow. Oh well. Guess I'll have to just get my own.
|
nice.:027:
but now you gotta change your name into FLM-MAXX.:D |
hey budd nice looking truck... i rember that i was just running grey bulks and rpm arms or tie hinge pins and was going at about 25+mph and seriously bent the hinge pin....with arms like flex tech and hybrids....they will bend like spaggeti..
has anyone thought about the jd carbon carbon pins? |
Quote:
|
Quote:
I e-mailed Jd carbon because i was interesed in these but i realized they only make these for self retaining hinge pin cars(cars that use something on the end of the hige pin other than eclips to hold the hinge pins in place) that is because you could not fit an e clip on the carbon i guess it could be done but it probably wold not be as effecent it might weeken it ifact but if you could keep the pins on the arms somehow i hear these things are cheap, lighter than ti, and indestructable and they even have a warintee. Also guys should i expect to break hnge pins if i am not jumping anything over 5ft and just driving on the street and mild bashing (because i live in a nieghborhood not a lot of places to bash drive). should they hold. |
Sweet lookin ride your building there Man!!! Nice job so far.
What are you going to do for steering linkage and servo saver? Quote:
G360... If your street racing you arent gonna bend the hinge pins unless you crash. I havent ever bent a pin even on big jumps unless I landed wrong. In a flat road course you shouldnt have an issue. Anyway, Its better to bend a hinge pin than break something else. The JD carbons are very tough and light but arent indestructable. I have them on my maxx and have broken them in a crash. You can have him make CF pins for your maxx if you want to use them, but you need to do the set screw mod to use them on a truck that doent have captured hinge pins. http://www.jdcarbon.com/set-screw-mod.html I did it on mine and it works perfectly. |
as for steering i was going to go ue but it is never in stock so i will probably go with the proline one I know a place that still sells it. as for the hingle pins i thought i read somewhere that they back them up with a warintee if you break them. also do you recommend these over the ti ones are they much better i would rather snap a carbon fiber one than spend 2 hours tearing out a bent hinge pin from a alu bulk head.
How much did the custom made pins cost you and how did he bill you for the product because it is not on the site to buy it. |
He has em. Just send him a note. He actually wanted someone to test the set screw and CF setup in their maxx up w/ the 3.3 stuff so I volunteered and he gave them to me cheap. They are nice pins, but I actually think that when they break they are harder to get out than the metal pins. They dont really crack, the kinda bend and then fray and get bigger in diameter. Once they do that they get soft and you have no place solid to pound them out any more.
Dont get me wrong. Those pins are tough. I hit a concrete parking block at around 30mph and then cartwheeled for 20 ft after that. I was amazed that the hingepins were the only casualty. |
A real BEAST with wings.
|
Would it be easier to drill them out hautz?
|
Quote:
pinolelst |
Looks great!
|
Quote:
|
Just a thought. Well if it rotates it will get pushed out easily or hopefully.
|
It looks awesome gorilla. :004: Good luck getting and building the rest.
|
Ok guys i talked to mike and as always he seems to have the answer to my problems. he told me since hb and hpi are the same i could swap out the drive cups on the savage diffs with the hb ones this will allow me to use my cvds and i wont need to purchases new ones. i will be picking up plastic knuckles (i dont like the look of the shinney integy molded alu knuckles i ordered) and some of these diff cups and i will be back in business i would go with rpm but i am a little low on cash right now and i dont feel that i am going to break the stock ones but i will upgrade to rpm in the future though.
|
|
are those the only outdrives hpi make for savage diffs.
|
Quote:
Bye:018: |
thes second ones are the ones i am looking at/probably going to get(like the back better than the silver)
|
Gorilla, I wouldn't really recommend the RPM knuckles...The area around the bearings tend to wear out and cause play. Stick with stock or aluminum (I would recommend the RD Racing).
|
i will probably stick with the stockers how much are the 3,3 knuckles does anhybody know for 4
|
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:31 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.