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need some advice for a futue bl project..
hey well i am getting to my normal obsession of things.... i have so many diff options to work with i just dont know what to do!! i will be up all night tonight looking at diff trucks and i just wont know what to do!! im hoping you guys can help me out here a little...
heres my dillemma lol.. im not satisfied with my rusty anymore... 2wd just isnt cutting it... i need 4wd... there are SO many trucks that are nice and would be sweet to have but which one is best for me!! idk!! here are a couple choices mt2 ss... sell engine and all and end up spending about 150-180 for the BNIB roller 55005 lightening... end up spending like 50 bucks for the BNIB roller 66514 lightening... end up spending like 120 for roller (may need to get a bigger motor since it is a 1/8 kyosho inferno... comes with nice remote so i might be able to sell that too... ill prolly end up spending like 200 for this truck... muggy spending like 300 jammin x1-t spending like 400 maybe a revo spendning around 400....... IDK!!!!!!! SO MANY CHOICESSS!!!!! i kind of want to stay with the little stadium trucks so i only have to run 1 of my 3s a123s but if its worth the extra 100 bucks or so then im all for it... i just over obsess with things so idk................ hope im not annoying anyone too bad lol...:005: thanks for all your help as usual guys |
I would go for something 1/8th scale for sure...
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alriht thats what i figured just wasnt sure.... i might sell my revo or use it as a project because gas is cool and all but the a123 cells make electrics SO much funner. i will virutually never run out of batteries if i get like 4 batteries.
but now for which truck to use? use my revo? buy a jammin? buy a losi? also should i get a new brushless setup (7xl and warrior) or what should i do about that whole situation i have the mm esc and the 5700 motor. i know i cant use the 5700 but will the mm be ok to use? i dont think i will go past 6s a123 but im not sure.. i dont want to spend 1000 on a truck... so keep that in mind.. would like to maybe keep under 300-400 in parts and what not.. |
My opinion is covert the Revo and use either a Neu or Lehner motor with a Quark or MM ESC. I'd say a Quark with a Lehner 1940. If you want to do a little custom work, keep the stock Revo transmission (just put in a FOC and get the Close Ratio two speed) and then gear it so first gear covers just about every type of driving except high speed passes (or the whole track except the straight). Then, you can run the disc brake still, and be able to use a center diff and rear brakes as well.
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o wow its not just a drop in motor kind of thing... i think it has the FOC in it cause i have no reverse as of now lol... and what will the close ratio 2 speed do?
also will the speeds be about the same with the revo as it is now? (gas powered) if i were to get the setup you said i just calculated and with selling everything ill have about 400 bucks and still be able to keep my bl rusty!!!!!!!! =D lmk what i shoul do! |
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@skyello: There is an optional center differential for the Revo.
t-maxx; I would suggest getting something that your LHS supports so that you have immediate and instant access to spare parts. The Revo is generally a good choice because just about everyone and their cousin carries Traxxas parts. Plus, there are a TON of hop-ups for the Revo. |
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ya i think mine should have replacement parts for it. i got a shock tower from there before so idk we will find out!!
so you all think the revo would be the perfect choice? |
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Nah...I think blissfully unaware is best. ;)
The close ratio 2 speed will low 2nd gear and make it close to first. A stock revo has the gear split about 60/40, meaning it will do 60% of its top speed in first, then second will get the rest covered. The close ratio will bring it to something like 70/30, which is better since you want second gear just a tad taller so it increases top speed when it shifts but doesn't strain your motor or ESC or anything. This way, you can gear your Revo a little low so the motor is working very little in first gear but still gives you the same (or even higher) top speed in second. This also increases run time and decreases motor and ESC temps. With a 1950, depending on the turns and voltage used, you should get 50mph out of it quite easily if I'm not mistaken. That should be more speed than the 18TM and have probably 3x the acceleration (limited mostly by the truck wheeling) and 25x the torque too. For the ESC you have 3 options: MM - will limit the motor and cell count some what. Quark - expensive. MMM - have to wait. For motor and voltage, you can run a 1950/6 or 1950/7 on 4S lipo, a 1950/7 or 1950/8 on 5S A123. A 1950/8 or 1950/9 or 1950/10 for 5 cell lipo or 6S A123. It depends. Just shoot for about 40000RPM with whatever combo battery voltage and motor turns. |
i have 2 3s a123 so i would like to use that. ill also be using the batteries for my rusty so it would be nice to keep it at 6s. i will probably be buying another 3s1p starter sets at a123racing so i will have 4 batts and 2 chargers. making it pretty much 15-30 min wait between turns.
i think i might go for the quark because i dont like having hot things and plus ill be using the mm for my rusty. what does the 1950/10 mean? 1950 esc with 10l motor or something? what will my speeds be with the 1950/10 with 6s123? also what am i looking to be spending on this setup? thanks! |
holy crap... i think you mean the 1950/10 lehner motor for 335 bucks? no thanks on that... lol i dont wanna spend like more than 200 on the motor... would like to keep lower than that... im content with 45mph speeds... i like how fast my revo is now with the os18 motor.
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wowwowo didnt know the quark was 280 holy crap!! lol....
i was hoping to be able to spend like 300 on motor and esc... |
Oh, thats very possible, but you won't be able to run 6S, unless you wait for a MMM.
A MMM will probably be 6S capable and the whole system not much more than 300 (if not just 299). If you ran 4S or 5S, you could run a MM and 7XL or 8XL. And yea...the 1950 I was referring to was the $335 one. |
well i kind of want to be able to run the rusty and the revo... so i want to keep the 5700 on it... when will the mmm come out? how fast will that alow me to go on 6s a123?
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I can't say. I've heard the MMM should be out sometime in April, but I dont even know if thats remotely accurate.
As for speed, I would assume 45mph would be easily accomplished...especially with 6S A123. |
eh.. would prefer to not wait that long... hmm... i guess if i wait i could accumulate a bunch of money. in the next 3 weeks i will get about 400 to spend so idk what i will do.
for 300 bucks what motor/esc can i chooe from with the 6s? thanks alot bp |
Ok, my choice would be the Quark 80B and a Feigao 8XL or 9XL motor, or you could spring for a Lehner XXL. They should only run about $175 for the XXL. If you don't want to spend that much, go for a MM and a Lehner XXL or Feigao XL. The MM has been proven on 6S A123 and 5S LiPo.
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alright so what kind of speeds will i see out of this setup?
80b/mm 7xl 80b/mm 8xl 80b/mm xxl lehner escs wont make a diff in speed will it? if so lmk the diff! |
Well, techincally yes, but the difference probably won't be noticed.
An ESC with less resistance will allow more power to get through to the motor resulting in more power. 7XL on 6S will be a little hot, but none the less probably be into the 50's. 8XL, 50's too I think. XXL Lehner, depending on KV and gearing, anywhere from high 40's to mid 50's or more. A side note on Lehner motors. One big thing about a Lehner motor is the quality, which makes it extremely efficient. This means that it can produce more power given the same power output (less power loss to heat and other factors). Don't take what I say as the bible though, since compared to most guys here I'm a brushless noobie, though I know enough to get me by. All those speed estimates are just what I read as typical results from other users with those setups. |
well i am fine with those speeds. anywhere in the 40s is cool.
now to esc... between the 80b and the mm which one would be more suitable? will i need a bec with either one? (probably will need one for the mm but not sure...) so pretty much for the extra money the xxl is def worth it? i dont wanna be spending an extra 150 or w/e for nothing uk? would like the motor i get to be efficient... little cogging... long runtimes... and for it to stay farely cool. |
Yes, you will probably need an external BEC. You will probably want the Quark...as it is built for 6S. 6S seems a little extreme for a MM...I would be ok with 4S lipo or maybe 5S A123, but anything above that is a little much in my opinion.
The Lehner is probably worth it. The Lehner is about 100 more than the other average motor. |
I, personally, would go with the Quark if you can afford the extra cost. You will need a UBEC for either the MM or Quark as well. The XXL motors should only be about $175 as apposed to ~$90. I think it would be worth the extra to be honest. I had a XL3100 and on only 12 cells it would easily do 50mph with really old 2400 NiCads. I think a XXL would be my choice, and probably will be for my next motor. Mine ran pretty hot, only because of the very high RPM's, which shouldn't be a concern for you.
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alright sounds good..
so would that cnc heat sink work with the quark 80? so it would be 80b with the lehner xxl and 6s 123. sound like a pretty good setup? |
Sorry to jump in late here. If you're still considering going to a 4wd stadium - why not the Lightning Stadium 10? My brushless conversion of my LS 10 is on ebay right now. I think it rips on pretty much any other 1/10 scale truck out there.
Only reason I'm selling it is to do a brushless CRT. Just bought the rolling chassis this week so I need the cash. Just thought you might like to know about it. If you have any questions about the LS 10 - PM me. |
decided not to go with a small truck. im lookin forward to this revo conversion!!
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