Current Mood: SUPER PISSED
 

Well, I finally got around to modifying my Revo to run 6S because the batteries wouldn't fit the trays. Well, I had just got done, charged the batteries, and was about to make some passes with my 10XL and 7020 in it with my BRAND NEW 6S 8000mah LiPos...Well it FRIED! And not just fried...It caught fire! To say the LEAST I am pissed. There is no hope to repair it as it got so hot, halft the components on the bottom just fell off (obviously since it caught fire). What do ya'll think I should do about a new setup for my Revo? I will be putting the 10XL back in my BPP LSP along with the 9920 probably. I was thinking I might run a 7 or 8XL on 4S in it, but am not sure. I will do that for sure if I don't end up getting a G2R soon. And if I don't get a G2R, I'm gonna redesign my Evo for use with 1 4S pack on the right side with the stock Revo tranny and the BL motor were the nitro engine would go using a center diff and rear brakes. What do yall think? I still might go with the same BL setup for the G2R if I get one...

Oh, and to top it all off, I have this horrible cough because of all the smoke that went in my face trying to unplug the batteries so they wouldn't get ruined as well...

Oh man! That sucks. If the 6s lipos are OK, I'd just keep it as-is and try another ESC. Was there possibly some type of piece of metal that got in the heatshring shorting something out? Sounds weird how it just went poof like that...

I know...I really hate to try another ESC right now...It's possible, but I doubt something got up in there. This cough is worse than anything though...

lol, I don't blame you being a little gun-shy right now. I'd be crying if I blew any of my ESCs, especially since that's usually the most expensive part!

That really bites about the controller.

Yea, at least it wasn't my 9920...I'm glad I fried a $125 ESC instead of a $225 ESC.

Squee; it was the esc that got fried? this sucks man.. When i read your post, i thought the lipo's, motor and esc caught fire.

Either way; this sucks.
The 10XL on 6S can draw quite a bit of current.

My too, took a moment before I realized you was only talking about the ESC. For a minute there I thought your whole truck burned up. I actually have a 7020 I was thinking of strapping it and 6cell LiPo to my E-Savage. But now I'm scared.

if you do; aim for a mild motor, that sits around 25k rpm tops.. gear for about 25-30 mph and you should be save.

Nothing worse than fire on the first run.:mad:1

Yea, that 7020 was just to small for that setup. 9920s are only $180 now. Might be a better option. Even the 12020.

Sounds like you sacraficed your body to save those lipos... Way to jump on the grenade man.:028: (So to speak)

An A+ for courage..

LOL.

Don't mess with an RC guys new lipos. Mess with his lipos and you might as well be messing with his women. It's a sacred thing.

Yea. It REALLY scared me since the ESC was sideways over the rear shocks RIGHT inbetween the two packs...Lucky they weren't even warm. But the odd thing was I never even got going...It was only run from my back yard to my front yard slowly...After a second it was running funny and I stopped it, as soon as I stopped and walked over, I saw it burst into flames! I guess I'll try my 9920 tomorrow...

You got that right...

Theoretically it should have been ok, but I guess not. :mad:1 :035:

Any chance you could show us what a burnt 7020 looks like? Might as well make the most of this lol.

Yea, I'll get pictures of it tomorrow. I finally figure out how to get the heatsink off the Warriors. :) Set it on fire. :p Well I guess I got a nice heatsink for something now...

You sure nothing else was wrong? It doesnt sound like should have burnt from that.

EDIT: Was it cogging?

Yup. It was kinda studdering. It has just started right before I stopped. The I stopped and POOF.

I don't know if it's the best way to get the heatsink off, but good to know you found a solution.. :)

You always have a way of looking at the bright side dont you. :D

Arh, it sucks to melt down a speedo.. But at least the sun is still shining behind the thick mass of clouds..

you mean smoke :)

Well, if its not bad enough to smoke my 7020, I think I just smoked my 9920 as well!!! I'm SUPER PISSED...It was doing fine for a minute, I noticed that the slipper was slipping kinda bad, so I tightened it, went back out, and not 45 seconds later I i saw a little smoke and a little glowing spot! I unplugged them IMMIDIATELY as not to catch fire again..I'm SUPER SUPER SUPER PISSED. That was my last ESC! Could it be from running 6S? The 7020 ran fine on 3S for a good 40 minutes of runtime, then I went to 6S and POOF. Same goes for the 9920....It was fine before I ran 6S on it...

My old 9920 did the exact sane thing, decided to go poof on 18 cells but was fine on anything else before it.

Although I bought a new 9920 and run 6s fine. I've got it really hot without problems, got a couple of fans on it now to make sure though.

It sucks, it's not just losing money but having to wait until you can use it again. :(

I can live with the waiting...Its the money I'm pissed about...I really need to get a job....

Man, that sucks. Don't really know what to tell you.

Hope you get the money for another esc.

Thanks man. I'm thinking possible the new Quark ESC or possible a MGM 24160...

Are you sure there is nothing else wrong? It seems strange that both ESCs would lite up like that. There has to be something you are missing. Id just hate to see you plug up a brand new ESC and toast that too.


BTW: I vote for that new quark. I wanna see what thats all about.

Yea...That will likey be the next ESC, but I can't imagine what the problem is..I'm gonna replace all the connectors, and everything, but I highly doubt its something like that...I can't imagine what else it would be...

That's odd Squee. 20 cells can be as high as 26v (1.3v/cell), while 6s can only get to 25.2v @ 4.2v/cell, so it doesn't sound like a voltage issue. Something wrong with your motor?

I don't think so...It was fine the other day. I think it is a voltage issue though since the negative battery wire came unsoldered on the 9920 and thats were the damage was, as well as on the 7020. It was on the battery lead side on both...

Was the esc in a different setup the other day? Different motor, BEC, reciever, Batteries?

Could be a problem some other component. Its just too strange that 2 esc went right in a row.

Same UBEC, same RX, same batteries, same motor, different truck. Thats the ONLY difference. That and went from 3S to 6S like I said. Never had it run on 6S for more than a minute...

In response to several posts back; put the heatsink in the freezer and then pry it off if you want to keep them. Some of the FETs might come with it, but those can be scraped off since they're most likely no good now...

Bad UBEC??

A bad UBEC wouldn't cause any problems with the ESC since it's not connected to the ESC other than having a common input.

I'm illiterate when it comes to all things electrical, so you're probably right. To helpf with my education, though, if the UBEC isn't working properly wouldn't that push the job of voltage regulation back on the ESC with corresponding over-heating?

Thanks for helping with my education....

When using a UBEC, you disable the built-in BEC by removing the red wire in the throttle cable. If the UBEC fails and stop providing power, the receiver shuts down and therefore there is no signal to the ESC. If the UBEC somehow fails and sends full battery pack voltage to the receiver, the receiver will most likely smoke and there still won't be a signal to the ESC.

I'd say check out your motor thoroughly. A guy in this forum( quite a year ago) burned his warrior because of the stinky purple motors.

Checked it...Couldn't find ANYTHING wrong with it...

Your's is the old version, eh?( the controller).