Which neu
 

would there be more of an advantage to using neu 1515/2.5d over neu 1512/2.5d? I ask this because i have searched the forums and see a lot of people using 1512/2.5d for buggies but i am going to use it in an EMAXX which is much heavier so does that mean i should be using 1515? or 1512?

the 1512 is plenty for an e-maxx. it can push it around with authority.

if you want even more torque, you can use a 1515.

Remember; putting a BL motor in your maxx will go hand in hand with upgrades (diffs/driveshafts, steel idlers etc.)

And a warm welcome to the forum!

This isn't a scientific answer... but I would do the 1515 for any modded emaxx or larger truck. If it's a lightweight maxx (lots of stock/plastic) the 1512 is more than enough still.

I had great results with the 1515 in both 1/8 buggy and truggy... but I also get awesome results with the 1512 in my buggy. I have not run the 1512 in the truggy yet. I should do that sometime just to see... maybe put to rest many questions about what it can/can't do.

Others have run the 1512 in some big trucks and were very happy with it, but didnt' have a lot of data... temps etc.

I will update some results from yesterday's racing in another thread... if I can find the right one lol

Yeah, the Neu motors have got awesome torque to start with! they are 4 pole motors, which gives them an advantage in torque over 2 polers.

While a 1515 does the job with more ease, a 1512 is enough in most of the cases.

Especially when you are using a light truck, like Glass said.

wow fast responses! thanks, great to be here. Yeah the Emaxx is pretty much stock so i'll most likely go with the 1512. don't want to have to do a TON of upgrades to the maxx. i know this is a little off topic.. but what are major ones that should be done when converting my maxx? and links to cheaper parts that still will hold up strong would be excellent, if not i'll search 'em thanks!

Quick info in this thread... I ran the 1515 in my buggy at last months race and was consuming about 220-230mah per minute.

I ran the 1512 this time (maybe with it geared slightly slower... but very close in speed) and a little less wieght, but was amazed to see even more efficiency it seems... like 170-190mah per minute!!!!

My old emaxx with crappy nickel packs and Hacker C50 used to eat up exaclty twice that much juice.... this stuff is incredible to me.

First upgrade: slipper and steel idler gears.

Then upgrade the rear axle and driveshafts. That's about all I had to do with the C50 12cell setup.

Here is what i did to my 14 cell 7XL powered maxx;

UE cvd's (rear only, kept the stockers in the front, and the rear ones are a spare for the front ones (hello, you still there?!)

got 7075 aluminum cups to beef up the diffs, and integy aluminum housings, using the RC-monster center shafts.

another must have upgrade is steel idlers; and modify the input shaft. the gears on the input shaft are held in place by weak pins.. replace them with a massive hardened pin (nail or such) and they hold up better.

Another option is to buy aluminum diffcups and use the new tmaxx3.3/e-maxx housings(don't know how old your maxx is, but the old housings used 2 screws, and the new ones use 4) these new housings along with aluminum cups make your drivetrain a lot stronger. Only problem is the stock tupperware®© drivetrain.. A better product of the tupperware®© drivetrain is found on the new t-maxx 3.3 (it uses the sliders of a revo, which are MUCH stronger..) you could try your luck on ebay and look for a set of those.. One thing.. They also need the new 3.3 arms/knuckles/turnbuckles.. (i had a complete set for about 45 bucks shipped..

UE cvd's in just the rear? ok and and steel idlers, any links to any of these things you guys are talking about? sorry i did not inticipate such a fast response

rc-monster store has the idlers in the "gear etc" section...

We can wait with replying if you wish?

Arh, too bad.. the UE shafts are out of stock;
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...13501s7&cat=47
You could set with the MIP shafts which are in stock though';
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...mip1525&cat=47


This is the maximizer 7075 cup i was talking about;
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...zerdiff&cat=47
And if you don't have the 4 screw housings, here are the integy housings i was talking about;
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...iffcase&cat=47

Here are steel center shafts; (MIP's)
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...mip1495&cat=47

and this are the steel idlers;
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...03idler&cat=47

Arh glass, you didn't even took the time to look up a few parts!

hee hee... I thought a super fast reply would be more appropriate, lol

thanks Glass and Serum! so those are the main things i should be upgrading then i take it. Ok i can do that. I have the newer emaxx i think.. the widemaxx one or whatever. But i also hear to lock the emaxx into 2nd gear so how do i go about that?

Don't know how it's locked;

I would advice you to buy the real locking thing from gorillamax, this thing really locks the truck in second, without any play in the gears. it costs about 12-15 bucks or so, and it really beefs up your gearbox, since the play kills gears this play is rather large, (the drive-dog normally uses it for engaging from 1st to 2nd) if you are running at WOT, and need to brake hard, this play is killer..

If you need anything that's not on the site, just shoot Mike an email, he can get you anything you need for your maxx. (including this drivedog which is not listed on the site)

That's it for now! it will take app. 9 hours before my first reply! i am off to bed..

ok guys, i'm going to start compiling a list of what i will need and i'm gonna have you guys approve of it but it's gonna take me a while to look up and read on all this stuff haha i'll get to you later! and thanks for the help so far!

So here is what i have compiled. I can see already this is gonna be a lengthy post. I was on Traxxas' forums and asked them earlier before you guys and they gave me a few suggestions as well as a couple of links. OH and just to make it clear, i have a widemaxx Emaxx if that makes a difference since i guess there are 2 screw differential things and 4 screw differential things.

2 of these to complete truck - $100 - $124
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...13501s7&cat=47
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDXN7&P=ML
OR i may just go with one pair in the back and use the spare for the front like you, Serum, have suggested. i can save money this way haha

Aluminum Diff Cups - $30 - $50 or $60 - $100
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...zerdiff&cat=47
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...LM13010&cat=31
I will need two of these right? one for the front and one for the rear?

Center CVD set - $46 - $48
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...mip1495&cat=47
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLSS8&P=ML
http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...re/13513T.html


2 Hardened steel idler gear-Emaxx transmission $30 - $32
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...03idler&cat=47
http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...ore/13407.html


IB4200 7 cell matched battery packs - $140.60
http://www.specpointbatteries.com/

Quark Monster Pro 125B Brushless Sensorless Speed Controller - $280
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...RK_125A&cat=21

Neu 1512 2.5d/f Sensorless Brushless Motor - $225
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...2_2.5df&cat=20


Somebody one the traxxas forum suggested this to me for an improved slipper clutch but i guess it has to work with a certain spur gear?
Strobe Slipper Kit w/Bearings - $32
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...od=Slipper-Kit
With...
Nylon 51 tooth spur gear - Ofna - $7
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=ofn30110


OR

These were also a suggestion by the same guy instead of the Strobe slipper Kit. I guess they take the place of the friction pegs and it's a ton cheaper.

Associated Differential Balls - $1.45
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2760&P=7



Don't know if i really need a Differential Case or not
Differential Case - $50 - $75
http://www.greatassemblyrc.com/Store...97&InfoID=3573
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...iffcase&cat=47


Tell me what you guys think!?
I want your honest opinions on what i might need and what i have listed i will not have a need for.

For the shafts, you can probably save a few bucks and use Revo sliders. They are plenty strong and cheaper to fix/replace if something does go wrong.

Upgraded diff cups are definitely a good idea. If you want to go all out, I believe there are better ones using 4 spider gears instead of 2.

After you see the power of BL, you'll probably never use first gear again. Removing first gear, linkages, shift fork, shifting servo, etc saves some weight, rotating mass, and gives you a little extra room (because of the missing servo). If you do that, all you need is one idler gear. And you might want to pick up just the locking mechanism of the single speed conversion - it makes the tranny less sloppy and is easier on the gears since you don't have the slop from the dog gear.

For batteries, those look good. If you want to save weight, you could go with a couple of lipo packs. You can get packs that have much more runtime for the same weight (or less). Of course, you'll need a lipo charger and I recommend a balancer.

The Quark is a solid controller - I like it a lot despite the fact it won't work with 6s lipos very well. But you'll be using 14 cells, so you're perfectly fine. You might want to pick up the heatsink, or make some type of additional heatsink as the Quark does tend to run warm. Depending on when you plan to purchase all this, you may want to wait for the Mamba Monster Max (if it ever comes out). It is supposed to have some pretty good specs and might be cheaper.

The Neu is a very good motor. The 2.5d might be a little too fast with a kv of 2600. Depending on gearing, I'd get the 2d instead. Up to you. You can approximate the speed of your setup by using the top speed estimator calculator. No sense in getting a faster motor than you need since all it will do is decrease runtime and pull higher currents than necessary.

The Strobe slipper is a good idea as you'll melt the slipper pegs in the stock setup if you have any slip set. And yes, you'll need that Ofna 51T spur. It's a Mod1 pitch, so you'll need some Mod1 pinions, which are available here as well.

You should also pick up a UBEC, which converts your main battery voltage (16.8v in your case) to 6v for your receiver and servo(s). And it's a switching regulator, so it'll stay cool. That way, you don't need a receiver pack. 14 cells is way too much to use the ESC's built-in BEC.

I've never had an actual emaxx, but I have used some emaxx parts in my first Revo conversion. So, other people may have additional suggestions...

Most of that list looks pretty good so far.
I have a 7XL and a Quark 125 in my E-maxx running 12 and 14 cells (I like 14 alot better).
So far, after about 20 packs through it I have not broken any drive train components. I did burn out the Quark some how, but it was replaced straight away. I bought pretty much all my stuff from rc-monster and I think you'll be happy if you do the same.
The drive train upgrades I did were:
2 sets of
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...mip1525&cat=47
but I think the UE ones you listed would be better.
You could try using them only in the back, if the stock fronts keep braking you can always upgrade later.

Aluminum Diff Cups- $60
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...LM13010&cat=31
I don't know how much different these are to the Maximizer 7075 ones(I got them because they were cheaper)

Center CVD set- $46
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...mip1495&cat=47
Mine haven't broken yet, but the pin kept coming loose and put a coin slot in the stock chassis (yes I used lock tight). If you file a flat spot on the pin where the grub screw goes it seems to stop that.
The UE ones you listed will not work on a standard E-maxx, they are for a T-maxx (one is longer than the other), they will work on some extended chassis though.

2 Hardened steel idler gear-Emaxx transmission $30
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...03idler&cat=47

If your using nimh's I've heard IB4200's are some of the best.

Quark Monster Pro 125B Brushless Sensorless Speed Controller - $280
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...RK_125A&cat=21
Very smooth controller. I don't know why mine burnt out before. My car is playing up now and I'm not sure if it's an ESC thing, a battery thing or conections, it's very confusing and frustrating.
I use the UBEC and heatsink that BrianG listed and am happy with both.

I haven't had any experience with the Neu motors, but I have heard only good things about them. The Neu's are 4 pole, but the Quark will run them. 2000kv sounds good for 14 cells.
If I was getting a Neu I woild get this as well http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...od=RCMNEUcover

Strobe Slipper Kit w/Bearings - $32
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...od=Slipper-Kit
With...
Nylon 51 tooth spur gear - Ofna - $7
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=ofn30110
I would use about a 14 or 15t pinion, with the ofna 51t and Neu. Depends on what your car to do.
I think the Neu's are 5mm shafts (check with someone else though), so you can use the 5mm bore, mod1 pitch pinions found 2/3 down this page. http://www.rc-monster.com/gears.php

I haven't heard about using bearings as friction pegs, but I'm guessing the strobe will be better.

Differential Case - $50
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...iffcase&cat=47

Sorry if any thing over laps with Brian's comments when I started typing his post wasn't ther yet, and I'd gotten too far to stop.:005:
Patrick

Ok cool, so i guess i have a couple more questions then. From what i understand, the revo driveshafts will ALL fit in the Emaxx? If this is true, i will be able to save a ton of money on that part instead of buying all those cvd's.

Since i plan on converting to Single speed, i will only need one idler gear, and a locking mechanism. Where can i find a locking Mechanism Brian?

A UBEC was mentioned so i will go with one of those, and that dirt protector that goes on the motor.. that would probably be a good idea.

Thanks Patrick. If you think that will give a decent overall powerband i will try the 14 and 15t pinions. The ofna 51 tooth spur gear, since it may strip and i doubt there are any at my lhs i may pick up a few of those... dealing with the spur, is 51 tooth the only option? just curious

So it looks as though i may be going with the Strobe Slipper set up now.

About my IB4200 matched packs... currently i have a DuraTrax IntelliPeak AC/DC Twin Pulse Charger

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXXG87&P=ML

This will be able to charge them right? i'm pretty sure as it says it works with 7 cells but i figured i would ask you guys just to be safe.

when i buy the aluminum diff cups, i need to buy two right? one for the front of the truck and another for the rear right? and they are exactly the same?

When it comes to Aluminum differential cases...do i honestly need to have one? or is it just something good to have? sorry i am looking to save as much money as i possibly can on this and still have a nice working truck. Front and back diffs are exactly similar too I take it so I will need two of those as well I assume.

All this talk about using heatsinks and fans on the the Quark or any controller for that matter ... is this something i should really be concerned about?

To answer some of your questions;

An ultimate charger is the 989, the IB4200's are quite powerfull, depending on the type you've got..

yes, you do need two aluminum cups..

Ok i'm starting to get a little concerned about my motor choice now... I did the top speed with measurement thing you have here on the sight .. and it said i am only to see speeds of 34mph with my emaxx on 14 cells and 15t/51 spur.. that was with the Neu 1512/2.5d that i was thinking about going with.. but that's basically stock speed isn't it? and with all this money going into it.. this just doesn't seem right. so i put a different motor in.. the Neu 1512/2d and i instantly got 10 more mph up to 44 mph.. i would like this a ton more since i am putting so much money into my maxx. Does this seem wise?

Yeah, though a 44mph truck is quite fast. nice for speedruns, but not for everyday bashing.

14 cells and the 1512/2.5d would be my choice, combine that with a larger pinion and your speed will increase. the 2000kv on 14 cells is nice. Don't go any higher.

Bump up the gearing a little if you need more speed. I run the lower kv motors and can run in the 40's if I want to... just requires a taller gear.

But the 2d isn't exctly a crazy hot motor for an emaxx... much better than the 3000kv motors we used to run.

So really what I am saying is that either motor will work well... the 2d or 2.5d... just gear accordingly and you may not even tell the difference.

like serum said... gear up the 2.5d... lol

lol sorry guys.. guess i was kind of freaking out there.
I don't need insane speed for bashing.. i mean how often do ya hit a ramp at full speed? haha

anyways.. looking at pinions right now and have nothing to go by as far as keeping all 4 tires on the ground so what's a good starting place for tooth wise?

hee hee... don't forget that a stock emaxx can only crack 30 in 2nd gear and it has no chance to ever hit 40 with a sane gearing.

The 2.5 will flat out smoke a stock emaxx....

you have a good point.. my revo will kill an emaxx haha

One final thing and i will quit bugging you guys FOREVER! lol i know i must be getting on your nerves by now but you guys have more knowledge than most of the guys on different forums i've been to.

I just bought rpm's a-arms.. they're the wide ones and i am almost certain they are for the tmaxx AND emaxx. Can i just buy tmaxx 3.3 or revo FULL drivetrain including center shafts and everything and it will fit with no modifications so i don't have to get any cvd's at all or isn't it that simple?