Aluminium Idler - Do I need this
 

Hello ,

I have just purchased a brushless system for my stampede.

Novak SS5800 with super rooster . The big question is will my normal plastic Idler gear hold ??? Do I really need to change to a Aluminium Idler gear.

Are there any other parts I have to change before it works well together.??

Look forwards to some feedback

My Brushless system
 

Ups - I meant - Novak Brushless Super sport SS5800:C:

I hope you got the Novak speed controller that matches the motor (super rooster won't work with a brushless motor). You may be alright on 6 cells with the stock idlers for a while. Otherwise, you should be in good shape.

Im building the same setup.. I have two new transmissions for my stampede, with stock gears in them. I plan on running them until they break. That seems to be the best way to upgrade, use it hard until you find a weak spot then get something better.

When I had a Traxxas Rustler my Idler went rather quickly - these are the same as a Stampede and that was on a low geared budget 13t motor!

I would get an alloy' one straight away, I think the "hop-up when it brakes" plan never works, as you can sometimes hear an awful sound, and have to open everything up to find out what it is, then what needs replacing. Best be prepared. ;)

So where can I find an aluminum or steel idler? Ive been looking around and havent really seen any as I shop for chassis parts.

Do they even make steel idlers? i think a forged gear would stand up better then aluminum machined gears..

The aluminum idler holds up fine. It does wear some though, and will eventually cause the diff to strip.

my friend had a pede and we beat that thing and never had one tranny problem besides an ocasional spur stripping.

Well, you prbably didn't have crazy power, then. I could strip a gear in no time before I put the coldfusion diff in.

we tried different motor but never brushless that thing was fun to just beat on though.

I dont seem to be having any problems yet with the tranny, It may be too soon to tell though.

However i did let a friend drive it today and he nailed a curb and broke my steering servo...

Get the aluminim idler, ESPECIALLY running a BL set up. the stock idler will will go south in no time.
STAMPEDE + BRUSHLESS= 100' WHEELIES!

Yeah.. I got the aluminum idler for it. Now Ive sold the stampede and have been working on a TXT crawler, it has the HV brushless setup in it. But for the life of me i cant find tranny upgrades for this thing.

The txt doesn't really need a tranny upgrade. It is pretty durable in stock form (Tamiya tends to overbuild in this area). You could always install an e-maxx tranny to allow more gearing choices(the g-maxx single speed would be an awesome upgrade for the txt).

I always thought so too, and its got 32 pitch gears which oughta be a little more resistant to slipping - but when I put it in reverse to climb over things that are tough and strain the drivetrain i hear it click sometimes. It also tends to be driving forward at speed then slam into the brakes, causing the same thing and flipping the whole rig over a few times. (but thats probably the radio system)

WOW! Thats alot of power in a crawler!:eek:

I wonder if im giving the stock TXT tranny too much power, if i throttle it about 1/4 i can make the entire chassis twist and then roll over backwards...

The internal tranny gears are actually mod 1 pitch, which are a bit beefier than the 32 pitch of the pinion/spur. It is unlikely that these are slipping(although anything is possible, I suppose). the instant brakes is likely a radio issue, as you stated.

It definitely is... the good thing about sensored brushless is low speed driveability, it has incredible torque - better then the integy lathe motors i was using before.

Then when you feel like hitting some jumps or ripping it up its got speed too... one of the problems i have though is without a sway bar system the whole rig twists up under heavy throttle and likes to roll

How bad would the temp rise on the HV-maxx motor if I take that gigantic heatsink off?

So...get a sway bar system(the stock truck comes with sway bars-where are yours?)

I took all of that off to get more articulation - not quite 90 degrees (yet) but it can climb just about anything. I had though about switching out the cantilever system too and moving the mount points to just use shocks, but that would have an even more negative effect towards my roll-overs

Just disconnect one side of the sway bars when ytou go crawling, and reconnect it when you want to drive fast.

IMO you have way too much power for crawling. in crawling you need torque but not that much so that your chassis is twistingfrom it. the lnly way you are going to fix thit is to gear way down. in my clod im using 8t pinion. i dont think you will find a happy medium between torque & power using a bl setup.