mm is glitching...
 

hey i have my mm esc being use with my brushed dual 700 revo. im using dual 3s1p a123 batteries. i am ordering a ubec as we speak because of the high voltage...


heres my problem... when i plug the batteries in the esc turns on fine and everything works good. but every once in a while the esc will stop and it will like try and reboot itself but wont... if i unplug the batts and plug them back in it will work fine...

anyone know whats wrong?

thanks!

First of all 3s A123's is only 10.8v off the charger, 9.9v nominal. It certainly won't hurt to use a UBEC, but I really don't think it's that.

What kind of radio are you using and how close is the antenna to the motor wires?

well im using just a trx stock one... im going to get spektrum soon though.. couple days...

why is it turning on and off though?

I couldn't tell you that as I'm not sure how the ESC responds to erratic signals. The stock radio is AM and can still work if you take special consideration to keep the antenna as far from the motor wires as possible...

ya.. it did the same thing with my rusty... never done it before...

maybe ill send it in to cc once i get a new bl setup for my revo

If you want to spend a couple of bucks, you could try a ferrite bead on the throttle cable. This filters out RF interference from entering through the throttle cable. Not sure if it will help, but it won't hurt. You just loop the cable through the bead one or two times, snap it together, and plug it in.

well since i have spektrum on the way i shouldnt need that. but if something goes wrong with that then i will give that a try!

thanks!

Have you checked the temp on the MM when this happens? I don't know what the current draw of your setup is, but I had a similar problem with my Spektrum, which was actually worse, because the Spektrum takes a relatively long time to reboot.

As I understand it, the MM will shut itself down (thermal?) for very short periods of time when the esc is bordering on overheating. The problem is that everytime it shuts down (and this can happen a bunch of times in a second or two), the receiver starts the reboot process all over again. I was running 3S at the time. When I went to the ubec, the problem went away.

it doesnt seem hott at all wheni touch it. ill see next time though weird that it would all of a sudden start doing this though... never did it before

You can test this BEC theory by using a receiver pack temporarily (don't forget to remove the red wire in the throttle cable). Even though the heatsink isn't hot, the BEC (which is just a linear regulator) could be overloaded depending on your servo load and shutting down.

so if i do test that what will the result of it be? or whats the point of testing that

Well, to see if it's the problem AAngel alluded to. If it's just a BEC, you could just get a UBEC and fix your problem and save the ESC a trip to CC for a non-existent problem. If you are running 6s A123 cells, you are most certainly overloading the BEC.

ya im just going to order one tonight along with the fiegao motor

Are you running the two 3s1p packs in series or parallel?

series
i asked on here a while ago and got a diagram and made the wiring harness for it

The internal BEC is only rated for 3s Lipo :). It sounds like it's the BEC chip that's shutting down, which would be due to the extreme efficiency of it when running ~19.8v.

haha i guess thats true!! the ubec will solve this problem? or would it be smart to just go ahead and get the 80b?

No linear BEC chip (what is in the majority of ESCs) will allow the use of 19.8v with a standard servo (80B controller included). A UBEC or receiver pack should fix the problem you're having.

a receivr pack? hmm... i have those... will that be better or the same as a ubec? will save me like 30 bucks... with a receiver pack do i just plug it in and call it good?

thanks

It will serve the same purpose as a UBEC, but it will obviously need to be charged separately.

Remove the red (middle) wire from the connector from the ESC that goes to the receiver, then you can use the receiver pack.

ok cool. ya i will just use the trx power pack. so just clip that little red wire and plug in the rx pack?

You don't need to clip it. On the connector are little tabs that, when pulled up a little bit, will let the wires slide out.

so if i do that it will just be dangling out? or what? got any pics of what it shoudl look like?

It would be loose, but you could use a piece of tape or something to keep it from doing any damage.

If you look at the wire that goes from the ESC to the receiver, on the plug end there shouldn't be a wire in the middle, only two on the outside.

I heat shrinked my red wire. Works well, and if you ever need it, you can slide it back in. Tape works too of course and is easier. Once the red wire from the esc plug is removed, you jsut plug the rx pack in the batt slot and you are good to go.

woot! makes sence!

thanks!