How tough is a Savage?
 

Just wondering if anyone can shed a little light on the savage for me. Never owned one, but I'm thinking about building one as a pure and simple basher. To do all of the stuff that I don't/won't do with my nice Maxx and Revo. What I really want is a truck that I dont have to sink a lot of cash into, that I can simply convert to BL and drive in basically stock condition and have it be pretty tough. Tough enough to stand up to a little more extreeme things than I'm not willing to do to my expensive trucks.

Is the savage good choice for a extreeme basher? Big jumps and stuff. Or, am I going to wind up spending just as much on it as I did on my maxx to make it tough enough, only to find that I'm not willing to do that to it anymore because it cost so much. Is the drivetrain on the savage tough enought to stand up to a mid range BL system without a ton of upgrades. Basically what are the weak points that are "must do" as far as upgrades go?

I see a couple places that are selling new Savage X rollers for like $200. That seems pretty reasonable. I have an old 9XL and a MamabaMax sitting here doing nothing and I have some old 7 cell IB3800 packs sitting around that could be the power system for free. I also have about 10 old radios and recievers sitting around, one could be resurected for this.

What else will I need? I'm thinking i will need the roller, a custom motor mount, and some custom battery trays. What am I missing here? If I can get a decently tough basher for a coule hundred invested and save the wear and tear on my nicer trucks I might just do this.


I'm looking for input here. From Savage Lovers and Haters. How tough is it? Is it worth it?

From my understanding, you should be able to pretty much jsut keep the savage as is and convert to BL. Serum would know more on it, I think there might be a few tricks to it, but the stock shocks are good, and ost of the drive train I believe.

Yeah!

Savages rock in terms of durability..

-6 spider diffs
-camshaft servo saver
-tough as nails gearbox
-stock shocks that are tough
-steel dogbones (don't look for heavy duty, since they are nothing better than the normal black ones)

Wise upgrades;

C8019 hotbodies diffcup, or get the new HPI aluminum diffcups with steel inserts (first is 10 bucks a set, seccond is 20 bucks a set) goot thing about the HB diffs is that they use 8X16 bearings instead of the rather weak 10X16 bearing for the HPI cup)

i found the FLM hybrids too heavy, use the GPM aluminum diffhousings (50 bucks per 2 for the normal savage, the X will be more expensive and heavier)

When planning on using the stock gearbox;

If you get the X-SS, it uses a steel spur. Best thing to use is the X plastic spur/slipper.

there are several threads in this savage forum, but for some dumb reason there is a timestamp on them.. Check all the posts from the beginning..

Yea I think I read them all tonight...:024: Learned alot, but still have a few questions while I decide if I am going to bite this off.

Right now I'm thinking about buying a Savage X roller so the steel spur shouldnt be an issue.

-What are the differences between the X and the X SS besides the motor and the fact that its a kit vs a RTR?

-So no transmision or drive train upgrades are needed with the exception of the Aluminum diff cups you mentioned. Bonus.:027: Does the stock transmision 2 speed need to be upgraded or changed to work with brushless? HD 2nd gear?. Obviuosly I would need to keep the mechanical brakes if I keep the 2 speed. But, can it be locked into 2nd (like an emaxx) so I can just use motor braking? (probably won't at first, just wondering how difficult it is)

-As for motor mounts...(electric obviuosly) I've seen them done by mounting them in betwen the side plates and I'v seen them done by making an angle plate with holes that line up with the mount holes for the nitro engine. Any advice on which is better?

-Are the GPM bulks going to be necessary or just a nice upgrade. Is this the weak point?

One more i forgot...

Will the diff gears just drop into the HotBodies diff cup? Sounds to good to be true.

EDIT: One More... Will a XL length motor fit inside the chassis without having to mount it on top? Would fitting an XL inside the chassis require an extended chassis?

the X-ss uses some other upgrades. i would prefer the K4,6 SS kit, since that comes with all the goodies. (heavy duty 2nd speed is rather common by now, check the exploded views for this.)i wasn't talking about gpm bulks, but gpm diffhousings. Check the exploded views for a better insight.

Like i said; the stock transmission is tough as nails.


The new X rtr comes with tough diffs, but i prefer the normal diffs from an older savage, since they can hold the GPM diffhousings.

Yes, the HB cups fits the stock gears

yes, the XL motor fits the stock length plates.

What kind of battery mounts do you use? My buddies savage-x hold up fine except he constantly breaks his batttry mounts.

If you want to see the x in action.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpQoN-lmYLg

http://picasaweb.google.com/buikpijn/CarbonSavage

this is a good way to keep the batteries in place.

you wouldnt by any chance know where to get carbon fiber in Germany would you?

buy an lst2 it is just as tough as any savage out there and comes with allumium diffs.

no upgrades needed! the monster is working on a conversion as we speak

it's him and his LST again..

the lst is okay, but so is a savage. this thread was about a savage, not asking about advice on what truck to use.

Too late anyway... Just bought a Savage X roller. I plan on doing the absolute minimum that i have to to make this run decent. I'm just going with a MM and a 9XL on 14 cells so thats a fairly mild set up. The intent of this conversion is going to be my absolute beat on truck. You know the big jumps and stuff that I wont do with the Revo and Maxx. I'm not dumping a ton of money into it. Just the roller and few minor key upgrades.

So far I'm planning to do the 17mm hub conversion. I prefer the big 12mm thread nuts to the little wheel nuts with a big flange that it uses stock. (personal preference).

And the Ofna Diff Cup upgrade that Serum suggested. Thats it.

The roller didn't come with any servos so I'm using what I have in my box now. I have a pair of the XTM X-175 servos left over from when I did the XLB conversion. They are decent specs at 6V 212oz and .22 sec. One for steering and one for brakes. The RX (spektrum)is comming out of the Mini-t and going in here. (sweet Mini-T for sale :005: ) Battery Holders are going to be fabed using some Aluminum and CF I have left over from another project. Design will be similar to the link Serum posted, but I think will try and go a little beefier considering the harsh treatment I'm planning to give this truck. The MM and 9XL and UBEC I have from an old setup. And Ive got wheels and tires comming out of my ears, I'll just find something I have to throw on there.

So basically I'm hoping to pull this whole thing off for only $250 or so so out of pocket. (Kinda cheating cuz of all of the stuff I already had spent the money on) Well see though. Theres always something that you forget to account for.

Cool.

i hope you manage to keep the plastic X diffholders from flexing. make sure to shim the diffs. the X holders give the diff a nice amount of free movement..

I'll have to look at it closer once I get it. Right now I'm hoping to get away without it. But I guess I'll see once I can do a better evaluation.

Serum I was just playin anyway. I really don't have a problem with other trucks sometimes I like to get a rise out of people!

you came to the wrong place then..

Are you the same Mr LST that was sending me PM's about other users on how they liked to stirr the pot, and asking me to close topics because you couldn't stand it?

The judge is on you now.

jhautz, keep us posted on this i want to do the same thing you are doing but i may run it as a nitro ... for awhile and just see if i like it anyways good luck !