e-maxx or ? e-savage
 

and no i dont mean the e-zilla e-savage i mean the gas 1/8scale savage converted to electric i have a perty stock e-maxx other then my proline powerstroke shocks and aluminum bulks and i am sooo tired of breaking driveshafts and a arms and etc etc .... and i already know the recomended upgrades .. but do i throw all the money into a car i am very sick of taking apart or do i just buy something much more durable like the 1/8scale savage and do a electric conversion ? now i have no exp at all with HPI or the savage but everywhere i read they say the savage is like the most durable basher out there and i only bash and bash hard i do ... so lemme here some pros and cons :)

Personally, If you bash hard, go with the Savage. If you do, let me know, I might be willing to take those Powerstrokes off your hands. :)

also should i concider the revo ? i know the electric conversion is fairly simple on it but im unsure about the savage but mostly i want durability

Revos are durable, but it your really a hardcore basher, go with a Savage. No doubt. Revos are more at home on the track, but don't get me wrong, they can make one hell of a nice basher.

Yeah, the Revo is a nice basher. That is my bashing truck. I have a Savage in pieces in my garage that I have had the intention to build as an electric basher (and make the Revo a racer), but the Revo is just so good at racing and bashing that I haven't gotten around to it :005:.

i dunno its a hard decision i kinda like the fact the savage is 1/8th scale not 1/10
for some reason that makes me think its more durable...

Personaly I would stick with the Emaxx since you don't have to buy one. Then on top of it, you already have a head start on hop ups. The truck is a PITA to work on, I'll give you that much. But there is a few things you can buy that will make working on it easier...plug beef it up a little. I would also think twice about keeping the stock a-arms. I look at them as a controlled break. Their my weak spot and easy to replace add a very fair price. Here is my suggested list:

CVDs
Aluminum towers
Hex screw kit
Hardcore skids

While the savage might be 1/8th scale, it is probably heavier when completed. And heavier trucks break easier than lighter ones in my experience - kinda like dropping a mouse vs an elephant out of a second story building. :)

Personally, if your gonna go with the Maxx, go with RPM arms, 3.3 setup, FLM towers, FLM skids, and a FLM chassis. That should get it pretty close to being bulletproof, aside from the diffs.

Oh ya, if you just have to have aftermarket parts...RPM is your company. Their arms are a lot more elastic compared to stock arms. I would buy an extra pair just in case. I've broke an RPM axle carrier on my Revo. They replaced it for free but I still had to wait a week for the replacement part.

i agree on keeping the stock a-arms so i can have that as a week point and there not that hard to change i would like to beef up the diffs cuz hey are annoying to get to is there anything thats not major $$$$ that will beef up the diffs ? or that i can replace the diffs with ?and i was gunna run cvds but im afraid they may bend .. and that would really piss me off lol so i was gunna go 3.3 revo sliders but then realized i would have to go to 3.3 knuckes and diffrent a-arms....then it turns into alot of money at one time. i was thinking of going with the flm chassis tho its $90 and thats a ton cheaper then the other ones and everyone says there super strong..

Well I may get flamed for this but the T/Emaxx is the worst truck out of the box to work on in my opinion. I didn't buy my parts to beef it up, I bought them to make it easier on my lazy butt lol That is why I run CVDs...I was sick of replacing stock plastic shafts! They also make it a little easier working on the rest of the truck. As for bending them, I'm sure if you bash, you'll break/bend something. That is the nature of this hobby. As for the diffs, I'm not sure on that one. I would atleast run aluminum diff cups. I would also look into some steel idler gears for the gear box as well.

I vote for the E-Maxx. I love my E-Maxx. It needs some upgrades to be reliable for bashing but parts are EVERYWHERE for it and at all price ranges.

If you are a serious thrasher/basher only then pick the Savage.

If you want a great does-it-all truck buy the Revo.

thanks for everyones info iv been looking at cvds ... and they are out there for alot of diffrent prices MIP goes for $40 ish just for 2 on the other hand theres a few others where i can get the full set for $40 ish... metal is metal right ? also since my a-arms are stock and such is there a diffrence in the 2.5 and 3.3 cvds ? and on another note my truck just stoped moving today it sounds like striping gears i took out both diffs and i cant see any signs of wear on them so i checked out the tranny and it looks fine to i put it all back and it still does it. anyone know what this might be ? could it be the diffs flexing enough for the gears not to touch or since i got my truck used could it be because there arent any shims of some sort in the diffs?

I had this happen before and all I had done was bump that red switch with my thumb. The one used for reverse on Tmaxx/Revos. The gear box sounded like everything was stripped out. I flipped it back and everything worked.

hmm that could be my 2speed switch but i switch the switch back and froth and it shifts fine id test but right now its all tore down to replace driveshafts lol

I also had a had a weak shifting servo. It would get stuck in a neutral. position. I swaped servos and problem solved.

For bashing go Savage. I have a e-maxx that I love, but in the process of beefing it up so it won't break so easy I went and spent a ton of cash on it. Now it doesnt break anymore cuz it was so dang expensive I'm afraid to bash it hard.

I'm just starting on converting a savage that will remain as close to stock as possible (ecept it will be brushless) and its sole purpose in life will be to do the things that I wont do with my high dollar Maxx.

My opinion... go with the savage for pure bashing. It'll be cheaper in the long run.

well i live somewhere it rains ... ALOT even tho we are getting into summer it still rains here ALOT so i am very tired of not being able to play with my e-maxx cux im afraid to kill the ESC in the water so i was thinking i would go savage so i could beat the $Hit outa it in the mud and rain and if i didnt like the gas or decided it just wasnt worth it id convert it to electric ... but if i might leave it gas i have to concider the revo again since the parts are more available locally i just got a mini-t from a friend for super cheap so that can be my "fair weather" car and the gas can be the rainy weather car lol

You have to water proof nitros as well. Anyhow, here is a guy with a Savage cruising around a lake.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/richard.short40/water.wmv

Just waterproof the maxx.

As six shooter mentioned ALL rc's need to be waterproofed if being run in/around water.

Servos, receivers, and esc's all need protection!

my lhs wanted $65 for ONE set of MIP cvds .... and $55 for the center set
then they wanted $70 for the robinson racing diff gears and cup isnt that all a bit high ? i dunno maybe not. but i can use rdlogic cvds instead and only pay about $50 shipped for the entire set but you add all that up and thats a ton of money just to make something not break all the time .... im still concidering going nitro because i hate having 2 batteries then again i might be geting a mamba max from a friend for ... a really good price so then all i would need is a motor and i could run one battery .. but i should prolly go lipo then...

Why not use 3.3 specs driveshafts? They are inexpensive, tough, and flex slightly on the "big bits". Best value going.

I owned a set of RD-Logics and they looked nice. Almost as nice as Unlimited Engineering.
HOWEVER, I never actually used mine and I've heard that while they look nice the steel they use is cheap and breaks easily. I can't confirm or deny that personally but I can tell you that I've used the Traxxas 3.3 shafts (on my REVO 3.3 and they have been perfect!) and the UE Supermaxx 6mm on my SUpermaxx-Emaxx and they are tough!

Hope that's helpful.

Traxxas has started making CVDs...9.99 for two drive shafts and 20.00 for Centers. I'm not sure how well they work but I may give them a try. It want be until next month before they're released. As for RD Logics, I'm running a set on my son's Emaxx with zero issues. I always refer to them as off brands. Anyhow, I also run the stock centers as well. The only broken parts so far is a set of rear gears...maybe front also. But I'm also running stock Titans on his truck. I plan on running one of the above CVDs on my BL Emaxx soon. Just waiting on parts.

As for Nitro or Electric...thats a hard one. Now either way you choose, you will still need to beef up your vehicle. One way to do it, is to wait tell a weak part breaks and replace it with a better part.

well right now i think my diff gears are going out cuz when i go from rev to forward i get a gear striping sound ... like it just skiped a few gears i took the diffs apart and cant see any signs of the gears striping but then again it might just be a combination of the plastic diff case flexing and the non shimed gears in there slipin. and on the 3.3 drive shafts i was going to go that way till i found out i had to replace the knuckles and a-arms just to run them.. because 3.3 shafts wont fit with stock a-arms correct ? and there is somethin with the knuckle having to be replaced to

There is times where it's very hard to spot ware on gears. It makes it easier to have a new gear set to compare old gears with.