emaxx flextek arms to long!!!!
 

i am hopping up my emaxx i baught some flextek arms and installed them, but then i ran into a problem my cv's wouldn't fit and my turnbuckles were to short!!the cv's were almost 1/4" to short i have the widemaxx metal cv's the longes ones i could find iv been searching every where does any one know what kind of cv's i should buy and where i could get them?????????cv's are the drive shaft from the differentials to the wheels....

Check out the UE cvds. Mike has them.

MIP's would work too. I fancy UE's though. Unbeatable in quality.

You could also set for a set of 3.3 shafts. you need other knuckles and turnbuckles though.. and the suspension travel might be a bit limited.

Serum,

I put these on my ride:

http://www.tsais.com/products/TBonz/index.html

Just curious if you have tried them and what your thoughts are? They incorporate some neat features that makes them almost impervious to falling apart...but I don't know just how strong the steel is...they hold up fine to my current setup (14 cells w/ HV Maxx 4.5). However, I'm building another truck that is going to punch quite a bit harder and will need the best that's out there. UEs are a little pricey, but if the quality is better than that's the way to go.

I haven't heard a lot about sliders...is there a reason for that?

Not the stock sliders, the 3.3 sliders. They are worth their weight in gold. his problem is that he NEEDS longer shafts, the tbonz are not long enough, only MIP and UE are long enough.

I know the tbonz shafts from the savage, and they are not the best available for it. UE's get my vote for the full 100 percent.

Thanks...good info to have. I am waffling on wether or not to buy FlexTek arms for my next truck. So this will help narrow my research on what type of arms and shafts to buy.

Personally, I wouldn't go with the FlexTek amrs or CVD's. I would choose sliders...

I am using sliders with my flextek arms and they work great.

Why not Flex Tek arms?

Anybody have a link for the slider u-joint drive shafts?

Well Flextek arms have the crappy bushings and in my opinion, aren't that nice. I like the FLM, UE, RPM, and even Integy Type 3 Pro/UE Racerx knock-off.

Thanks for the info....maybe I'll go with UE....but I REALLY like those FlexTek

I wonder why FlexTek hasn't picked up on this...and started using delrin bushings and cleaned up the tolerance issues?

I have Flextek arms and 3.3 shafts. The only thing I could find long enough. But it work fine and I love my setup. Just make sure you brace the rear of your front lower pins. There is a thread or 2 here showing the brace I made.

I dont think even the UE or MIP would work. These arms are longer than stocks wiether you run 2.5 or 3.3 knuckles.

And the steel u-joint sliders only lasted me about 5 runs, I had them for centers. They are junk. The pins wore out the metal fast and broke the outdrives.

The Flextek arms are great with a little modification, someone needs to make CVDs or Universals for them though. But Im sure there isnt a high enough demand.

REVO MIP CVDs are 10mm longer...maybe use them with REVO axle carriers, bearings, wheel adapters?

Or use the UE cvds?

Serum,

Could you please clarify...will the MIP 2.5 shafts work with the FLM/Flextek setup?

I heard the MIPs and UEs are longer than most, but if they fit the regular arm length fine, then wont they be on the edge of the cups with the Flextek arms? Then you would have to find some longer cups right?

I personally dont want CVDs, just trying to help figure out a solution. Im happy with my 3.3's. But I do wish they would come out with a dogbone setup for the 3.3's. Then you could just have longer shafts made.

The ue's work like a charm. The flextek arms are not that long. they are a 1:1 fit with the UE cvd's the UE's are longer than the MIP's though, and in terms of strength, i would go UE.

Well that would be great if UE would keep their stock up. They burnt a bridge with me personally. But I wont get into that. Are they still making products?

And they only show having steels instock, no titaniums, and do they even make a CVD for the 3.3's?

mike should have UE cvds in stock last time i checked.

Titaniums are over kill IMO

Who cares for tianium cvd's.. as well as 3.3 shafts? they are tough as they come.

I've read that UE steel CVDs are stronger than titanium ones. The titanium ones are just lighter than the steel.

the ue steels are stronger than the titanium ones. titanium wears much quicker.

i just recieved my UE cv's they work great w/flex tek susp. arms w/1/8 scale truggy gears on my emaxx gmaxx............i ran my truck for the first time today and im back to breaking things....the first part was the proline steering bellcranks and then the rear wheel drive i think the tork chewed up my 1/8 scale truggy gear .......but thank you all for the advice the UE cv's fit perfect!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good to hear you can wreck it again.. :p

What diffs are you using?

i took my truck apart to see what broke it wasn't my diff gears after all i just lost the little hex screw that holds my diff cup on!!!..im using hot bodies 1/8 truggy diffs in a hybrid bulk head they work well!!

I see, hotbodies are good diffs. When you replace the "hex" screw, or grub screw, use loc tite. People like to use blue, but I use red....

what grub screw are you talking about. the one that allows fr the pin to come out is this the one.

Thanks Serum

I am a believer...and just ordered two sets of the UE steel CVDs and RacerX shocks. I'll let you know how they work with the FXT arms.

Suspension arm brace
 

Well, I received some more parts for my latest build. I have the FXT arms and a FLM suspension arm brace. I should receive the rest of the suspension parts and drive shafts today....UE shocks and driveshafts.:028:

I appreciate all the good help you guys have provided.

Cool..!

What knuckles are you going to use?

Nice brace! Looks better than mine! I didnt even know they made one for the Maxx's.

I went with the RPM knuckles with oversized bearings...I noticed that you have them on one of your rides. How do you like them? Alternatives?

I bought the white ones and will dye them green or red.

You can get them from FLM directly. $7 gets you two of them delivered.

You do need longer hingepins with them i pressume?

The timaxx i am building hasn't seen any track/road.. i was waitin for some parts, and now it's on the 3rd place of projects to finish.. Too bad..

The RPM knuckles are okay though, installing the retainer takes some patience. they are tight.

There are no alternatives IMO. i tried buggy knuckles, but no succes. Integy knuckles are not considered an alternative. UE doesn't make the right knuckles anymore.. The only possible neat option i can think of is using Revo 3.3 shafts with rd-racing knuckles . (not too expensive either, 99 for 4 of them)

i see you have the cam locking bell cranks where can i get some!!!?:032:

That my friend is the UE servo saver! they are out of stock at this moment.

how does the servo saver/steering bellcrank work with the chassis. my proline one binds and i want a better one but the ue one is always out of stock. do you know about when they will be back in stock or somewhere else i can get them.