new bashing chassis?
 

ok, i know this is a pretty general and 'noob' question to ask, but i've been hunting for a good, solid bash chassis that allows for a bit more battery room than the stock chassis for over a year now. i can't seem to find what i'm looking for.

most people, i know, are using the FLM extended chassis or the gorilla chassis. i don't want extended (i like the shorter wheelbase and more body options) and i don't want one that drops the COG like a racing chassis does.

hardcore racing makes a somewhat duplicate stock chassis in aluminum, and it also drops the battery trays down a bit for a lower COG. but it's $200, and the last time i checked the hardcore site isn't up. the bomb-proof lexan chassis is cool, but that's also extended. and seems to no longer be made. converting a t-maxx chassis (like the UE one) seems like too much work to fabricate what i'd need for the tranny, etc.

is there another that may fit my bill better? i may just bite the bullet and get the FLM chassis. it's cheap, and i guess i could live with it. if that's the best of what i'm looking for.
thanks in advance...

from what i can find i think FLM is as close as yer gunna get iv been looking for the same thing but i will prolly just get the FLM its got a decent price tag ... not cheap by anymeans but decent and its super strong ... from what everyone has told me anyways.

What's so bad about extended? I would imagine that with the extended chassis you have more body options. And it will handle better.

Get the FLM; you will love it. The best bassing chassis available at this moment.

thanks guys - guess i'll be ordering the FLM from mike soon. :027:

as for the bodies that will fit, i'll have to check. i have 5 pro-line bodies i'm painting for other customers, and are a mix of 2.5 maxx and 3.3 revo. i know for sure the 3.3 revo bodies are longer - i test fitted one on my current setup and it was too long. so, it looks like i'll have 3.3 revo bodies to choose from for the FLM. not too shabby.

hmmmm... the stock arms i have aren't going to look good with all that shiny metal... i may have to get the FLM arms, too. but then i'll have to get a whole new motor/esc, as my puny novak prolly won't carry all that weight. finally - a reason to upgrade! :005:

Go FLM, you will be happy. And yes, the 3.3 Revo's fit the extended maxx, it's what I use on mine. You could go RPM arms, they are light weight and durable....they don't look all that bad....

thanks newe - that makes me feel better. i originally though only a few bodies worked with it... glad to know i have more options. so.....

i just ordered one from the monster. weeeeeeee... can't wait! :027:

Me neither! i am waiting for one too.!!

You'll really like it, it's a nice chassis.

I love mine with the batteries all the way forward I can finally punch the trigger and the front end stays down sometimes depending on traction. I like slinging rooster tails without flipping over backwards every time.

The FLM chassis is as good as it gets for bashing & limited racing (unless you can find a used UE Lightning Chassis).

You'll like it!

i got the FLM chassis on friday (THANKS MIKE!) but it's still in the package. i'm waiting for my supermaxx arms/knuckles this week, as well as a few odds and ends for that kit from UE. then i'll tear it all down and put all the new stuff on.

i'm hoping the extra length (from the chassis) and width (from the supermaxx) will keep my truck from flipping over whenever i turn too sharp at higher speeds. my truck is already on the heavy side, and if it lands upside down near the back, my body mount posts snap like kindling. i have already gone through 3 stock sets, 1 set of nylon posts that came with the racerX towers, and i think i'll try the rc-raven flexible posts. i have to keep the truck on the tires, and not on it's back!

i'll post pics when i have it all together. probably this weekend.

Make sure to use good shocks (UE's or comparable) and lower the chassis ride height as much as you can get away with. The setting along with the added length and the UE suspension go a LONG way to adding stability. REVO 3.3 like stability (if not better)

thanks for the tip - i've thought about lowering the ride height but just never have. guess i'll have to. i raised it a bit on the racerX towers, trying to get a bit (about 1/4") of clearance for general bashing. guess i need to lower it back down.

i have a set of powerstrokes that i'm very happy with, too. has anyone tried both the powerstrokes and the supershocks? is there much of a difference? i may just take the by-pass shocks off to save some weight.

thanks again!

wow. you guys weren't kidding. the extended chassis is something i'm smacking my head for not getting any sooner! that, along with the UE EXT kit makes this thing a complete dream to drive. it's certainly a whole new truck, and arguably the single (or would that be dual?) most important/influential purchase i've made to my truck.

the biggest difference has to be the stability (good call, procharged!). the extra length and weight moved forward keeps the power planted on all 4 wheels. the UE EXT kit makes the handling and suspension sooooo smooth! i can take turns so fast now, and instead of flipping from oversteer (the nasty habit i had pre-FLM and UE), it will just spin out.

i have powerstrokes, but dropped the by-pass shocks. my maxx is now all aluminum, so i have the heaviest springs on the coil-overs, and 60 wt. oil in them. it's not enough to support this 11.5 lb. beast. i have to add UE supershocks to my wish list. i've spoken to a couple people who ran powerstrokes as well as supershocks, and they say superstocks are quite superior.

thanks for the input everyone! and thanks mike for the chassis! i'm one happy customer. :027:

Glad you're happy with it! I knew you would be!

The UE supershocks are excellent. You'll like those as well. Ofna makes a big bore version (13mm) that would work for you as well. I do not have the specific model # handy at the moment.....main thing is the overall length.

Good luck and enjoy the truck!

......HEY! Wait a minute. Where are the pics clodmaxx? We need pics! LOL!

lol - oh yeah, i knew i was forgetting something...

here's a shot of it partially built
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL127.../250003882.jpg

not too shabby... a real testament to how much engineering went into the FLM chassis and UE EXT kit. that's a lot of metal that could add a lot of weight! it's not light, but not too heavy, either. i call it 'husky', lol.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL127.../251250942.jpg

the rest were taken this past sat. morning, before a lot of grass stains and dirt/dust were added. made my countless hours with mother's aluminum polish fly right out the window!
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL127.../251250946.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL127.../251250949.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL127.../251250945.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL127.../250003891.jpg

Pretty nice man! Looking good!

Looks great!! You'll definitely be happy with that combo of parts. And the best part of all, is that your truck is now officially indestructible. :017: :027:

thanks guys!

it's still evolving. i just bought a set of dace 23mm hubs to run buggy wheels, and my 'to do' list includes UE cvd's, supershocks, and eventually... a new brushless system. my jato is sitting patiently... waiting for it's turn. :005:

RC - you're so right! i landed a 6 foot jump this past sunday the wrong way and my truck cartwheeled about 8 times before landing on it's back. i thought for sure something would be bent, but turns out the only damage done was a ripped gorilla strap (brand new!! :035: ) and snapped 3 of the 4 body posts. luckily those things are cheap to replace in comparison! she can sure take a beating now!

a few updates:
* ripped another set of gorilla straps. that's it - i'm done with them, and refuse to double up to prevent this. i think i found a winner as a replacement. 2" x 24" strips of heavy-duty velcro with a buckle on one end, much like the buckle of the gorilla straps. i'll wind both ends through the outer most battery vent holes in the FLM chassis - it'll loop all the way around the chassis to hold the batteries. i paid $10 for 12 of them, so i'll have lots of spares. i don't have them yet; i'll post results once i get them.

* thought the 'correct' rear dogbone length for the FLM chassis was 105mm, so i hunted and searched for quite a while for the UE ti ones (they're out of stock). i finally managed to get one, only to find out that is the exact same length as the hardened steel one... so there is still a lot of front to back play. UE makes a 110mm one, which seems about right. and it's in stock. i may try that.

* supershocks: bought them, assembled them, and.... WOW. i had the extra firm springs on the powerstrokes, and i now have the black (heaviest) springs on the rear and the blue (next lightest) in the front. i can't say i notice any handling improvement over the powerstrokes, but they are much more durable with longer travel.

* body posts: still the weakest point on the truck, and it makes sense that they should be as it's the easiest and cheapest thing to replace. but seriously - if my truck ever flips on it's back, they snap like kindling every time. i'm using the rc-raven 'flexible' body posts which don't fit snug inside the UE knucklehead shock post mounts... is there a better answer? i know not to go aluminum. i guess it's the price i have to pay for a relatively heavy (12 lb) truck.

i also snagged a good deal on a Lehner 1940/7 hi-amp motor, and i plan to hold out for the MMM esc, no matter how long it takes. :027:

Another option of the dog bone, if it's ALMOST the right length is use fule tube and put that in the cups to cut some of the play.

thanks newe... i may have to try that. i'll have to buy some fuel tube though, as it's just been electric r/c's for me for nearly 10 years...

what size dogbone is that in the front i ordered a 72mm dogbone for my flm chassis and hb diff cups will this work

Use the stock maxx length for the front. I ordered UE's ti center drive kit and a longer ti dogbone for the rear. I used the UE cups so I can't tell you for certain that they are the same size as the HPI's.

i too used my existing UE ti centers, w/UE drive cups. i just measured the one that was in the back (exact same length as front) and it's 70mm. but as procharged mentioned, they may work in the HB cups (i have no experience with them).

if it doesn't fit, let me know and i can sell you my extra 70mm ti dogbone.

That's funny...

With the FLM chassis I now have (1) new in package spare 70mm Ti bone, and (2) new in package steel bones from FLM...truely a "bone yard"!

Did I actually say that.........sorry!

yep, you did say that... and i laaaaaughed. :005:

are you using a 105mm ti dogbone for the rear? did you do the fuel line trick to control the excess play? i'm kinda bummed about it. it may not matter much, but i just want it to have a slight amount of play like the front has.

2mm should not make a difference i can grind that much off if needed but i am pretty confident that it will work. (my gmaxx arms, trans, and dogbone should be in anyday now order from mike priority male thursday night. I will have pics soon mabey this weekend) Cant wait.

nice! can't wait to see the pics!

on the original subject of not wanting an extended chassis, is there an aluminum chassis that'll let me use a stock length body? I've got an awesome looking Crowd Pleazer 2.0 Muscle that is only offered in stock length and I don't want to have to get another body and try to replicate the paint scheme

well i had the posted the original question and had the hesitation of getting the FLM chassis, but i ended up getting one anyhow. wow am i glad i did. the added length really helps keep the power to the ground, it's really durable, and there's lots of room (LOTS) for batteries. there is a crowd pleazer body made for the revo 3.3, which fits this chassis. sell yours and get that one. :005:

if you read my first post, hardcore did make aluminum chassis that you may still be able to find on ebay, and they were a lot like the stock chassis but the batt trays were dropped about 1/2" to lower the COG. that was my only other choice (really) unless you can find a UE lightning. get the FLM - you'll be happy with it. i am.

lol - love the avatar.

bodies will get torn and be used, the muscle 2.0 is no longer in production (thank you proline)

i managed to snag one of the few Baja bodies pro-line made that fit the revo 3.3 before they all got pulled a couple months ago. not sure if they'll make it back or not. apparently they were having rights issues with VW (that's what they told me when i called them). :005:

Yeah, they where gone pretty quick too, I didn't realized it had anything to do with legal rights.

get the flm
 

the difference in lenth is about an inch most maxx bodies will still fit and as far as bashing goes They will replace it if you break it usually for the cost of shipping you really cant beat that!!!