Stampede diff help
 

hey guys
I have a brushless (mamba 5700) pede and im stripping the diff like mad, the outer teeth. I see Mike makes a steel diff but I can only buy that or the FLM case. I have read many that have bought the case and that helped alot with stock diffs. So im looking for suggestions I guess, start with the case first?
Thanks

You are probibly stripping the diffs because of flex in the tranny case. But beware that the FLM case will not fit the stock chassis. You will have to modify the the stock chassis. Either grind off the tabs on the rear of the stock chassis or grind out the chassis where the back of the battery sits.

So I suggest you save untill you money for both.

I run the FLM case and the stock diff. I've only stripped a 5 year old diff.

Interesting, I bought the case the other night from Mike. I will have to see what your talking about once I get it. Im happy with my homebrew chassis stretch and hadnt planned on buying a flm chassis.
If interested here is my ride
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v1...as%20Stampede/

Sick ride man!!

Thanks, Thats a 2" homemade stretch, works awesome. I had to stretch it that much cause the mamba maxx was just insane, couldnt keep it right side up no matter what I did till I stretched it and made a wheelie bar from a extra savage skid.

Welcome to the wonderful world of the worthless pede drivetrain. Soon as you get your metal diff case you will be greatly disappointed when you shred the diff planet gears every other run. It sounds like you are running the aluminum idler gear is this correct? If so then that is you're first problem right there. That aluminum idler is almost as worthless as the stock plastic one. The problem is that soft aluminum starts to wear very very quickly and if you take a close look at it the teeth on it are very sharp in no time. Once the idlers teeth have been sharpened then it doesn't take long before it cuts all the teeth off the diff case. I bought a couple of those metal diff gears and ended up going back to plastic diff AND top gear to try and keep the idler from getting worn and sharpened. I was amazed at how fast that aluminum idler got worn out even with the stock diff and plastic(actually I should say delrin) top gear. In my experience the best thing to do is run the delrin top gear, plastic diff, and one of Mikes Hardened Steal idlers, then loosen up that slipper. You'll soon find out that the diffs planet gears are also very week. If you are running enough power to strip out the top gear or diff case(assuming your idler hasn't been sharpened up), then you are running more then enough power to shatter your planet gears and twist the almost as worthless traxxas drive axles. I know it all sounds crazy and backwards...but it is what I've found over the years of playing with my pedes and rusties. Also, don't be worried about that top delrin gear, it is a heck of a lot tougher then you'd think and it will keep your hardened steal idler in tip top shape for a long time, it also keeps things very quiet and smooth.

Thats wierd. I ran the aluminum idler gear, and the FLM tranny case and never stripped another gear again, except for the spur...

You do much offroading with it? I run in to all my troubles when off roading and jumping. Just running on flat ground doesn't seem to be so hard on things.

To update I got my case today (Thanks Mike! NY to CA in 2 days) and I just got installed, no modding needed!

Few purty shots. If this doesnt fix my prob then guess I will need that beefy metal diff gear next. With the mamba maxx I have plenty of power to get it moving.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/a79ae84c.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/d43a688e.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/f1188c3d.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/bf742f96.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/ee828434.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/d4f93962.jpg

Just to clarify how the tower screws to the case.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/46bcb3aa.jpg

If you use a RPM cover their is one little issue.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/b448c0a1.jpg

Looks good. Have you run it yet?

sorry but thats the biggest hunck of crap i have ever heard!!! i jump my pede 8ft n the air, back flips from a stand start and everything else!!! i caouldnt strip anything if i wanted to! something was wrong with ur pede or sumthing, my pede is all flm, 8 cells, mm 5700kv

thats sweet! u should get a swami wheelie bar now!

Guess something must be wrong with all 5 of my pedes and rusties then. In any event I'm not really interested in arguing about it, just offering what I've learned over the my past few years of pede bashing. If what you are doing is working for you then I say don't change a thing. I can say though, if you jumping your pede 8ft in the air like you say(I mean on a regular basis not just once or twice), and not bending it all up then you're alot more careful of a driver then I, which maybe has something to do with why your truck doesn't break as much. I had both a full FLM pede and a FLM rustler that I liked to jump and bash. I was always bending the aluminum all to hell. Actually had to go back to plastic because even though it does break sometimes, I found it easier to replace a cheap plastic part then it was to deal with bent aluminum and hinge pins. Also, I run big LiPo batteries with lower kv motors, so my trucks probably have alot more torque.

All I did was run it on dirt. But since it was a decent size, it was a lot harder to flip then my bl rc18mt for example, which flipped everytime I hit a pebble, lol. Maybe you just ahve bad luck with rusties and pede's. :005:

Your pede looks great!!

im not going to either, but i know 4 other ppl that can back that up, ***RC***, rcbros, and idk the other names... but we dont have any issuses, and landing in weeds, grass, etc not solid dirt or concrete

I've stripped the planet gears.

I know that alum idler is crap. But I haven't it blow out on me yet. But the other day I managed to MELT the spur gear. It was a good Coarlly spur too. I don't know what I'm going to do now.

Thanks guys! No I havent ran it yet, for one its been doing nothing but raining here, finally! im in california and we have needed it even tho it suks. Plus im kinda laid up right now, I just had surgery on my arm Thurs. so im quite a bit of pain. Just put this together last night cause its hard to look at new parts and not wanna put it together! hahaha.
I have the alum. idler as well, I also have the metal drive gear I gues its called, ones on the spur gear shaft. I may buy the ones from Mike as well then get the diff gear also if I continue to strip mine. Its been mentioned that maybe the reason im stripping them so much is cause I have atretched chassis and it puts more strain on the gears cause instead of wheelying and letting off the gas its able to stay planted, think thats true?

Since a couple of you have had all flm stuff can you answer this, can you use the stock plastic skids/braces on his chassis?

maybe.

I have a stretched chassis and the gears wear. It all depends on how hard I'm driving that day. If spinning the tires and doing stupid stuff then something usually breaks. If I'm going around doing speed runs or bashing (jumping and that sort) I usually don't break anything drivetrain wise.

Here she is all covered up :027:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/470572f5.jpg

Anyone on the stock braces on the FLM chassis?

Here is all my pics on the truck and a few clips.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v1...as%20Stampede/

I think there is certainly some truth to this because I've notice the same thing between the stampede and rustler. My rustler gets the motor hotter because I can be more aggressive with the throttle thanks too its lower center of gravity. The weight of the wheels seems to make more difference then anything for me though.

I pm'd mike about possibly making some sun gear for the diff. If he can make them we could make a virtually bulletproof tranny.