Rear Mounted MAXXimum
 

I have an idea for a modification to my E-Maxx...I am planning on installing the G1 Single Speed Conversion and rotating the transmission and motor 180 degrees, so that the motor and speed control will be toward the back of the chassis, just in front of the rear shock tower. I can then reverse the direction of my Plettenberg MAXXimum so that the output shafts will rotate in the proper direction.

Has anyone tried this? Will it work?

Doesn't the Gorilla Motor Mount reverse the motor?

Yes it does, but you have to use the Gorilla X-Brace Chassis. I'm wanting to use the factory chassis.

You need to know that the fan on the maxximum is meant to turn on a particullar way too.

You could just flip the diffs.

Serum, you're absolutely right. If I change the direction, the fan won't blow air across the heatsink. I'll use Dafni's advice and flip the differentials. Thanks everyone!:D I'll post pics when I finish the project.

your going to wanna switch the bumpers.

Well, I 've got all of the parts on order and with any luck, they will be here by Saturday. I've ordered the G1 Single Speed Conversion, Fastlane F/R Aluminum Bulkheads, Strobe Slipper Clutch Kit and Ofna Plastic 51T Spur Gears. Here is a picture of what it looked like before I started the disassembly.

Here is a closeup. The box contains the receiver and UBEC.

Looks good, especially the Plett. This motor even looks killer. Want one.
Interesting antenna design, too.
But the batts, ooh, the batts. Definitely not something where you want to go for the cheap stuff. Just my opinion.

Please change your batts, thoose poor quality cells can even kill your 18.97..

Ja, my word. The Plett will suck the life out of them.
Batteries are the most important investment when it comes to BL.

Yeah, I agree, the batteries are cheap. What batteries should I use? How about these:Robotic Power Solutions I was looking at using the IB3800U NIMH Sub C cells in 7 cell packs.

Serum, just out of curiousity, how is the 18.97 being damaged by using the EPIC 6 cell packs. When I run the truck, the 18.97 and Plett, barely get warm at all, and the batteries get hot. I figured that the batteries were more at risk than anything?

if those batteries got loose contact one way or the other, or they have got a higher internal ressistance, you can damage your controller with braking. Because the motor is not able to store the energy back into the batteries, (that's what it does when you brake, it uses the internal resistance of your batteries for braking, with that comes that the energy is being stored back in to the batteriepack). so it would be fed from the both the motor and the batteries. That can kill the schulze.. And schulzes are known for that.

Those packs are cheap made, with thin tin plates, spotwelded.. Good till 15-20A, not for the 80-100A your system can eat..

I would not risc a controller that costs 20X as much then those batteries..

If you want the real thing, buy the GP3300's they deliver a bit more voltage on a high current load than the GP3700's (this voltage thing is what i heard from BK)

Thanks for the info.! I'm new to the electric RCs, since all of my previous RCs were Nitro, so I've got a lot to learn about how these electric systems work. I'll look into the GP 3300 cells.

The IBC cells have even lower IR than the GPs. I actually prefer the IBC 3600 cells that I have to the gp3300s.

Yeah, I just e-mailed Robotic Power Solutions and they replied, stating that the IB3800 blows away the GP3300! I'll probably go with the IB3800s.

Either of these batteries will make a tremendous performance increase on your truck. You will be surprised at the power difference.

What about using these batteries? Intellect 3600 They're $50.00 for two 6 cell Intellect 3600mAh packs. Is it really worth it to get the 3800 Intellect cells at $105.00 for two packs? Also, the packs from Kinetixrc.com are spot welded, not soldered. Is this going to be an issue?

Thanks.

I have the 3600 stick packs for $45 in my store. I also have matched race cells (to be built) in the store-3300s, 3700s and 3600s.
http://www.rc-monster.com/products.php?cat=18

The stick packs are almost always going to be spot welded with thin aluminum tabs. They work fine, but soldered batteries are better, as they have lower resistance.

How is the voltage of these cells you guys are talking about on 80-90A?

I prefer my IBC3600s over the gp330s in my brushless e-maxx. I don't have any specific amp draw data, but the 3600s seem to have more power under the load of my xl3100 motor. I attribute this to the low IR.

Mike,

Can you have 7 cell packs made with the Intellect 3600's in the configuration shown in this picture? If so, how much would they be? Will this arrangement fit in the stock E-Maxx chassis, using the G3 GorillaMaxx Battery Straps? The dimensions of an individual cell are: 23.5mm x 43mm Also, what AWG wire is recommended?

I could get those batteries built for sure. It should also fit the stock truck, but the motor mount may make it a tight fit. Many folks running the stock chassis and using custom packs cut away some of the plastic battery tray on the bottom to allow the extra cells to hang below the chassis. This lowers cg as well. If I built those packs, I would use 12 guage wire.

How much would the 7 cell 3600mAh packs cost?

Thanks.

Cost would of course depend on the quality of the batteries (not all batteries are created equal).

Well, I'm almost done with the project. I've tested the drivetrain and everything works perfect! There is only one issue, thus far...I had to use a 32P 18T pinion and a Kimbrough 68T Spur, instead of the new Strobe Slipper Clutch that I was hoping to use, because the gears would not mesh. The case of the Plett hits on the transmission housing before the gears can fully mesh. Here is a thread that I started, to discuss that issue: Strobe Slipper Question

I will run it tomorrow and post pics.:)

Well, the truck ran like a wild beast!:D It would wheelie on command, even though I'm running with the single speed conversion. Here is pic of what was the finished project.

The reason that I said "was the finished project", is that I just wasn't completely satisfied because I couldn't use the Strobe Slipper Clutch. SO, I decided to initiate revision 3 of my project. Here is pic of the FINAL project (well, at least until I get more cash! ;) ) I will post more pics of revision 2 and 3, later this weekend.

Nice!

It are two of the traxxas motorplates? i smell a G-maxx single speed conversion! and it smells goooood.. ;)

Yeah, it's two of the Traxxas heatsink motor mounts.

The G-maxx single speed conversion is an awesome high quality product that performs superbly!:cool:

very nice job! what box is that? got a link?

I got the black box from Radio Shack: Enclosure 270-1802 I had to cut-off the small card slots on the inside of the enclosure, to fit my receiver and UBEC.

Well, I've decided to sell my E-Maxx to purchase a REVO. I've got the fever to convert the REVO into Brushless!:D Here is a link to the auction: E-Maxx

Here is link to the post for my Plett Powered Revo