Will This Setup Work?
 

HI everyone. I recently have run into an opportunity to acquire a pretty sweet car. I was wonder whether or not the MGM 80 controller could handle a Feigao 9L on 12 cells (2400 sayno). Otherwise what would you reccomend for good runtime and speeds at least into the lower 30's ? I would like to run this controller, because I don't have the money to buy both the controller and the car..... here's a picture



Yes, clean up that druel. :L:

well, the feigao has a current rating of 68 amps, and the mgm 80 can handle 80 amps... Providing you run no more than 12 cells, the mgm compro 80 should be fine

You have a lehner basic 4200 correct? Put that in and see how it runs. (It wouldn't hurt to try) I think you'll be amazed.

CF truggy. Nice!

The 80 amp MGM will be pushed pretty hard with a 9L. Run a fan and keep your fingers crossed.

I haven't made any purchases yet... Although I am thinking that It would need a new motor and controller, but after recently purchasing the lehner 4200 and MGM 80 its kind of dissapointing to turn around and buy a 9918 and Lehner 3100 XL... Wish they had some slightly used return haha.

Its a lot of money, so I'm looking at all my options. The xxx-t is giving me some minor problems, so maybe this is the break i need.

Hey Re Mix... where are you MN? I'm in princeton. I just got my bl yesterday. I have the 9918/9L.

The xl3100 or the 9L are too hot for this more of a direct drive.

I have seen this project, someone worked on it very long,

Try to figure out what gearin it has in the diffs.. (43/13 43/10 or what so ever) And what is the diameter of those tires and what spur/pinion are you planning on using?

I personally think it would be nice to run this setup with a 7XL motor on 12 cells. It would be rater easy on the controller and due to it's 50% larger magnet in comparison to the L size it will throw out a nice torque as well. But i like them being powerfull.. depending on your gearing/size of the wheels a 10L would do fine as well. (the feigao/wanderer L serie has got more torque than the lehner basic XL series..)

I worked with Andy a little on the gearing with this truggy. The 9L with a 13 tooth pinion and the 1/8 tires calculates into high 30s top speed with 12 cells. The MGM could probably handle it.

Really? I heard thet 9L was a little too hot for this car. So I'm thinking a 10L maybe. That would be easier on the MGM hopefully. I do have a fan to run, but I'd rather be on the safe side of things.

The 10L will work quite well also, but Andy and I worked out the gearing on a 9L. The 10L would be easier on the controller for sure. The 10L and a fan should keep you pretty safe.

Would a Hyper 7 TQ conversion be a lot easier on the motor then this chunk of metal? Im looking at my options, and while price is a factor, I'm willing to spree on the car and motor, but I already own a nice controller, so that'd be great.

That "chunk of metal" isn't all that heavy as I recall. I would guess the Hyper 7 conversion to be just about the same load.

You mean Andy from Germany?

No, Andy from Cold Fusion racing (creator of the CFR truggy).

Okay, thanks for clearing that out..

For how much these buggies change of owner?

Huh? If you're asking about the price, it's around $450 as a roller without a body. I was just thinking a hyper 7 instead, since I'll be running around the neighborhood, and the plastic parts seem more practical for my use.

I want the easiest to maintain. And the 10L isn't a powerhouse, but i'd like to have only moderate diff cleaning and maintainence.

My bad.. I thought you allready purchased this car..

If you check out my "Brushless 1/8th Buggy" post ( http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...=&threadid=429 ) you'll see that I took a Hyper 7 TQ Sport kit for my brushless conversion. After the time I've spent on it and things I've learned, if I do it again with a 1/8th buggy, I'll consider using the OFNA MBX 80% prebuilt.
The Hyper 7 has a steel spur and no apparent plastic replacement, but the MBX has a steel spur with a direct plastic replacement. The plastic spur for the MBX is wide, as well. This should help with durability of both the pinion and spur.
I've purchased the MBX center diff assembly and am in the process of "forcing" it into my Hyper 7 TQ.
Also, the MBX has quite a few more easily adjustable pieces that the Hyper 7 TQ does not. You can compare the two at OFNA's website.
As far as performance of the chassis, I've read that the Hyper 7 TQ is more race-worthy than the MBX, but it doesn't sound like you'll be racing anyway. Both models have pretty equal parts availability.
I think the only things you get with the Hyper 7 TQ that you don't get with the MBX 80% prebuilt are the body and tuned pipe.

It looks like it may be more work to put electric into the MBX since the online photos make the chassis setup look more crowded, but that may be remedied with a good dremelling anyway.

Lastly, the MBX 80% prebuilt is about $100 less depending on where you purchase.
If I compare my experience in cost this far with what it could have been with the MBX as my initial purchase, I figure I could have saved about $200. I've had to purchase a MBX center diff and spur gear, as well as purchase the more expensive hardened steel pinions (5mm), plus the initial $100 more for the kit.

Well, i've got a rather sweet maxx, that i can run with komodo tires.. I am more of a MT fan, than the 1/8th buggy.

The steel spurs kil a pinion within a run or two.. You need hardened pinions if your planning on using a steel spur.

I did built a HB lightning to electric though, and that made me decide taking a g-maxx chassis to build up my maxx .. Making it more of a truggy than a truck. with komodo tires, it actually is more of a buggy.


And the reason it got a bit misty, was because i thought you where asking about a setup for the buggy you showed in your openingpost. not about the hyper 7..



I am working on a centerdiff convesion for the maxx, i only don't like the 5mm shafts the ofna diffs use. I am going to make an adaptor that allow me to use the UE/Savage sized diffs with an ofna spur (wide tooth and plastic too) i can make it fit to any kind of diff, i allready figured something to include a slipper as well, (dierectly on the diff) though i don't think a centerdiff needs a slipper that bad, so i might as well drop this idea. But once i get my lathe and mill, who knows what will happen on another lost night..


Aren't you interested in building a BL savage? I am going to buy a stock K4.6 ss kit, and sell the nitro stuff, it's a cheap and very durable truck, and it allready includes one of the lightest monster tires available and some other 'brushless ready' hopups, such as 6 spider diffs and a heavy duty drivetrain.

Im looking into a brushless buggy, and the truck I posted at the beginning at the option. But a recently blown out tranny in the xxx-t has led most my money to that and resoldering my packs in side by side configuration. Im looking at a bigger brushless monster that can handle bashing in grass or a field. I guess im looking more into savages too, but i'd like a setup that can get me into the low 30's with nice torque for off-roading. I don't want to stress the drive train since I'm not looking to blow money on this car (as with my xxx-t :-D). But I don't have the utilities to make my own motor mount. And the only conversion I see is the one rcboys sells for around $150.. So if I get a $120 savage roller and am able to use my MGM 80 with a 10L, it would cost me around $400 only to setup which is killer. Im just running through ideas on the forums, since you guys are the ones with the trucks im interested in.

Thanks for the hyper 7 info! That really helped to sway me away, as I felt it unneccesary to pay for a racing buggy I'm not going to race. The Mbx r2 does look crowded, but I am trying to get in contact with TeamTeor from the other forums who had a custom mount that looks pretty beefy made through coldfusion.

If you got a jigsaw, drill and patience and a piece of aluminum, you are able to make a motorplate. An L profile is the easiest way to go.

A 10L will suit your needs on the savage. On 12-14 cells allready.

How about the differentials holding up? Let me know how the conversion goes for you and how much money you can get for selling off some of the nitro parts. I might get a used roller, but the ss sounds nice. Im just sick of selling things, just sold my xxx-4, laptop, batteries, and a couple other RC items.

The main concern is I love to be safe when running any esc combination. Im running the 4200 on 6 cells with the MGM 80, which is total overkill since the mgm is I C E cold. I have to order about $100 in RC parts, so i'll put that order on hold until I figure out this savage business. Would you be at all interested in duplicating your motor mount design when you get there? If I do it, i'd probably figure out a way to mount it using the stock wholes, making it pretty beefy too. But I'd need a bent motor mount, and that would take some time with just a vice.

Well, the differentials hold up very, very good. (k4.6 has got 6 spider diffs) to take these diffs to a higher level, you can buy two HB lightning diffcups (5 dollars each) and 2 pcs 8X16X5 bearings. (those cups can use a larger bearing, beacuse the output side is from metal instead of plastic, and besides that, the plastic HB uses is much tougher than the HPI plastic. (keeps your pins from eating thru the plastic, though with the power you'r going to put in, you don't need to worry about those diffs.. The 10L is a perfect motor to keep your truck going and going and going, without servicing it too much..

Only thing you need to consider, is an aluminum differential case. this is the real weak spot. but then again, the 10L is more gentle on the drivetrain, so you should be fine, but if you hit the brakes too hard (and the K4.6 includes the HPI dual brake system, which brakes VERY hard on a weak servo allready) the front ringgear and pinion can be shred from this braking. (the aluminum diffhousings prevent this) i know a person who runs his savage with a 10L and he races it very, very much, and he never wasted a ringgear and pinion. I also heard that it was likely the first batch of these pinions was weak. (and i only wasted the two stockers, and i bought my first SS 1,5-2 years ago now)

Only company who makes these is GPM, did you see this thread? If you can lay hands on L-profile aluminum, you don't need a vice either.

Alright, time to do some research on pricing now. I gotta tinker with the xxx-t diff some more today its getting old, so i might have to swap out som e parts

I think this project has been put on a long hold. Unless a $120 savage roller drops into my hands. The xxx-t is just being fussy as hell, I guess thats what I get for 3 years of flawless running. I melted the ball diff pretty much, and shatter the thrust bearing... eww, I should of spent more time making sure I rebuilt that diff right last time! Ohh well.

Well sorry for the tripple post. But Mike, I wanted to confirm that you would actually support the MGM 80 and 10L on 12 cells as a safe setup and a decent power behind this car or a savage shall we say?

I found someone who is selling a roller SS with spyder 6 diffs and cvd's also already converted to electric... and I happen to be the first one interested. With the xxx-t on the fritz, I need something else to run once and a while.

the 80 amp MGM would have little trouble running the 10L IMHO. I have not run this combination, but the 10L is a pretty easy motor to get along with.

Serum-I have also thoought of adapting a slipper in the diff and would love to discuss this with you further (via e-mail).