New heatsink idea.
 

This is what i've been playing with in my free time. Whatcha think?

very cool. this was for the quark i assume

Yes, it was specifically designed around the dimensions of the Quark Monster pro controller. Also designed to accept 2 35mm cooling fans. I havent been able to think of a mounting idea though.

Nice looking sink, but what I'd like to see is something designed to be mounted on the chassis (in some novel way) to sink the heat away rather than relying on fans to dissipate the heat. Air is a lousy thermal conductor and fans are a PITA.

It definitely looks cool with the circles in there. But also, the circles are the downfall of a good heatsink, no offense.

There will be too much back pressure on the fan, I wouldn't be effective at pushing air throught the channels.

If you want to make your own heatsink, make the fins arranged perpendicular to the center of the fan mount. Or, better yet, make the heatsink taller, and arrange the fins length wise for fanless operation?

Just IMO

You would need more airflow to have the same cooling capacity.

I hope you don't mind me posting this here.. I did this a while ago, but don't think I showed anyone other than Mike..

http://img471.imageshack.us/img471/3...ink2015nb1.jpg
(click for more pictures)
accepts up to 6 40mm fans, and can be bolted directly to the chassis from the 4 corners.

useless IMO?

most likely :024:

A4, having that fan arrangement will be kind of like arranging your solders in a circle around the target on a flat plane. The fans will cancel each other out, unless you run just four fans on the long side with two blowing and two sucking.

well I figured w/ that many mounts, there's multiple options

one fan on each end, one fan sucking, one fan blowing
two fans on each side, two fans sucking, two fans blowing
or just two fans on one side both fans blowing, ect..

*edited to keep neweuser's mind out of the gutter :)

All this sucking and blowing....hmmmm, well, no comment.

:026: :005:

The design is actually pretty good... IMO, I would just run it fanless, it looks like there is plenty of surface area int hose fins. Aluminum though.

Whats in the sink?
 

Hey everyone-
Thanks for the positive comments and construcive criticism. Just to clear some stuff up for some of you. Those circles and fillets add surface area to dissipate heat and my material is aluminum. I may sink a slice of 110 copper alloy in the backside to draw heat off faster. Also the fans will be drawing air through the channels not blowing onto them,remember we want to draw the heat away not keep it there. I think though that I have to do some further blending in the transitions and around the entryways. A fanless sink would be loveley, BUT you need to have air blowing through it to work effectively IMO. Any ideas for mounting? Maybe a motor clamp that keeps the con right next to the motor? Shorter wires work better. Back to solidworks. I may produce these on a short basis if any of you are intrested.

A4, also, I was looking at the other pics. Why do you have the slot where the Quark mounts? Was this supposed to be THE Quark case instead of the alum. Quark case?

If that is the case (no pun intended), then that would work fabulous for dissipating heat as there is only the FET's and the then the heatsink, and you definitely would not need fans.

lol that's the idea :005:

So you would take the board out of the Quark case and transplant it then?

I want to make a controller case for mine, still thinking exactly how to do it. You see, I want mine to have the top set of FET's coupled to the case as well, I really don't like how they are not.

I don't even have my Quark yet, and I've been contemplating this. Perhaps a case that will accommodate the addition of four caps as well. I don't think it will be hard, but I would prefer to use anodized pieces of aluminum.

Once I get my Quark, I'll take it apart. Maybe the easiest way to do it would be to sandwich the controller between two pieces of aluminum with all of the surfaces of the fets making contact with the aluminum to draw the heat away. I'd just use some thermal compound between the fets and aluminum plates and then make some standoffs to screw into, effectively clamping the esc between the plates. This way, if you ever did blow up the esc, all you'd have to do is put it back into its stock case and ship it off to S&T.

I'll have a better idea when I get mine in tomorrow. Then again, I just may be too excited to mess with it. I might just want to throw it in to see what it will do. I hope the caps get here soon.

I would play with it a bit before you take it apart. IMO

YES! That is almost exactly what I was thinking, sandwiching it between two slabs with screws, then another case. Seeing as doing the internal mod works wonders, a custom case with no transfer slab, and a being able to transfer heat away from the top FET's will make it a new esc, plus more caps. It would be a hellova controller.

I was thinking you guys should start a new thread...

To get decent flow though a duct the inlet, its area has to be at least the same swept area of the fan blases. With the restriction of the blades creating narow channels you will need a lot more intake area than you have or the fan will be running stalled and have very little flow.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...eatsinkmod.jpg
If you cut out channels in the sides as well as the ends something like this, it would triple the inlet area and restrict the flow a lot less.

Like this (pics are before I added shrink wrap)

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1159475519
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...2&d=1159475519
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...3&d=1159915570

How does that work SMHERTZOG? We were thinking of something a little more civilized? :005:

I think I might have said this before, but the heatsinks on the caps won't do anything for cooling, almost no contact area.

I will post a pic of what I had in mind, for a Quark case (CAD Design). This might take me a couple days to work out. :030:

Also, that heatsink will not perform as well as RC-Monster's, IMO.

I would think a pin design would work the best since there is a LOT of surface area, not restrictive to airflow, multiple sources for air exhaust, and the pins create turbulence in the airflow which helps dissipating properties. Of course, this would be more expensive to make than simple CNC...

Crap, I don't have any dimensions right now (Quark sent for replacement), so I can't make an accurate design.

yeah, pin milling is expensive and hard to do. But there is alot of surface area, like THIS, I don't know how they make those?:032:

What? Quark dimensions? This won't work?

hmmm, I suppose that's all I need, and i guess the hight of the bottom FET's heatspreader (EDIT) is 3mm.

Does anyone know the exact measurements of the surface of the top FETs and to surface of the bottom FETs? If anyone has taken this with a caliper?

Thanks

Two more measurements: width of the power board PCB?

: The top FET heatspreader has a step out of it, anyone know measurements on it?

Sorry to bother anyone, I'll just have to wait until I get my Quark back before I can do it then.

The outside circle is the same diameter as the inlet diameter paul. I see where your going with those fins. It'snot going to take me very long to machine this, so we'll see what happens. I think at some point I will de case the controller and try to figure out some sort of "clamshell" sink.

Outlet/inlet in this instance it doesnt realy matter, all the air that passes through the fan has to be either sucked or blown through the slots in the side/s.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...tsinkareas.jpg

In this pic if the purple has les area than the blue then you would probably be better off spacing your fan off from the heatsink like the red sketch and alow the fan to blow air over the heatsink as opposed to the green sketch which is what I belive you meant, flowing air through the channels.

I would use thermal epoxy to attach the heatsink to the case.

That doesn't matter as much as you think, ALL heatsinks have a back pressure, you want 'some' restriction, as to increase air velocity.

But yes, in that pic, the outlet is too small, plus the fin design is not efficient, will not work very well.

The best design for a small add-on heatsink is RC-Monster. IMO

I've always thought a good design would be a tunnel like heat sink with a bunch of fins on the tunnel and a fan or two blowing in the tunnel (and possibly some sucking air out).

The tunnel effect would be very efficient as all air moved by the fans would be forced to go through the tunnel and cool everything. The only obstacle I found was making it...

The caps get at least 30-40 degrees more than the hottest place on the heat sink. The caps get so hot that the heat shrink peeled off. Maybe the extra caps quark has mentioned will help keep the cap temps down. It may be ugly but it works. How many quarks have you seen running a 10+lb gmaxx in 90f heat with a 7xl, orion lipos, and geared for 40+ mph without thermaling and all with no fan?

I have a 7XL too, I did the internal mod to it, but I don't know if it was just my radio TQ-3 (i know, i know) but after about 10+mins, it would sometimes stop. I wonder if it was a thermal, because it stopped, and I went and pushed it with my foot, the brakes are on?

Also, I was talking about the other heatsink there, not yours SMHERTZOG, just in case... :032:

Yes, I would recommend soldering some caps to your Quark, that will help save those caps, the 7XL is one current greedy motha.

[QUOTE=zeropointbug]I have a XL too, I did the internal mod to it, but I don't know if it was just my radio TQ-3 (i know, i know) but after about 10+mins, it would sometimes stop. I wonder if it was a thermal, because it stopped, and I went and pushed it with my foot, the brakes are on?QUOTE]

I had similar problem with my first quark. Although I was using a spektrum radio at the time. It would just stop I dont remeber if the brakes were on. I would wiggle the throttle and it would start up again. That one took a dump and the replacement didnt do it.

Mine only does that "glitch" when my 5s is about to dump....it's like the lipo's don't like going down to 3.0 cut off....

hey zeropoint-
If you read through your responses on this thread, you have changed your mind twice. Those fins and fillets as I said before add surface area to better dissipate heat. Cmon buddy,can't know everything about everything. I can quote you if you want.
Native, thanks for the steady imput.

I'm confused, what are you talking about? The fins and fillet part? I havn't changed my mind on anything, maybe you just misunderstood? You can show me the quote, maybe I can clarify what I meant?

ZPB

Pay attention to what your writing...
 

#1#2#3I think your confused, lil too much of the canadian herbs methinks.
Sorry buddy

:035: