Brushless TNX suggestions?
 

Hey all,

I was surfing eBay the other day, and long story cut short...I managed to pick up a second-hand TNX 5.2R for £56 including delivery!:027: It's a bit battered and needs some TLC before it can be driven, but most importantly its engine was knackered. So...its obviously calling for a brushless conversion.:018: From what I've seen, not many have done BL TNXs, so it'd be something different and I was wondering if you guys had any suggestions for a power system.
I'd be keeping the stock 2-speed and using the mechanical brakes. I've been thinking something along the lines of a Feigao 7XL with 4S Lipo and an MM/MMM ESC, but what do you guys think would make a good setup? I don't know what my budget would be really, tho nothing too expensive, and I won't be converting it for a few months due to coursework/money, but I just wanna get some ideas in. Here's some pics of the rig as it arrived today:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/HPIM1460.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/HPIM1462.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/HPIM1464.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/HPIM1465.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/HPIM1466.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/HPIM1467.jpg

Thanks for any input guys.:027:

Looks good to me, exept that it's dirty, that really bugs me how someone doesn't clean something before they sell it.

Do you know the weight on it? With the wheels/tires on, and everything on it except your BL system (obviously).

I haven't weighed it as it is, but in stock form with the engine it comes in at 4.2kg...pretty light for it's size! Without the engine and other nitro stuff, I imagine it'd be around 3.7, 3.8kg? The only problem is that the chassis plate isn't very battery-friendly, I need to think hard on how I'll mount the batts.

Don't worry...once my coursework is in, this thing is going to have a TOTAL strip-down, with a thorough clean and replacing/upgrading parts along the way. There's so much mud on it that I can't even reduce the shock preload (the threads are clogged up) lol!

Should be a cool conversion. But what are you going to do about pinion/spur engagement? Isn't the pinion inside the tranny with a dogbone hooked up to the clutch? Also, for battery mounting, maybe you could mount 2 packs next to the dogbone UNDER the chassis, and cut out some of the bottom brace to make it fit. Then make a new brace and skid plate to protect it.

Are you thinking of the Nitrage? That has the strange dogbone-clutch setup, but the TNX uses a normal spur and pinion...so fitting a motor shouldn't be hard. I'd just need to cut away some of the cover.
As for the batts, thanks for the idea :027: . I see where you're coming from, but in all honesty I wouldn't be too comfortable with mounting LiPos under the chassis.:013: I'll see how much space there is once all the nitro stuff stripped (I can relocate the brake servo), but if needs be I might just design and cut a custom chassis...only if I really need to though, as I'd like to keep this conversion reasonably easy (spent enough time waiting around for custom parts with Cold Fusion!) lol.:018:

I'd recommend a 1950/7 with two Trackpower packs and either a Mamba Max or a Quark to go with the truck. The TNX is as big as a Savage and yet, as light as a feather. With the mentioned setup, you'll be flying.

Thanks for the suggestion...I'd forgotten about the Trakpowers! They'd be ideal. A Lehner 1950 would be really nice too, but I don't think my student finances could stretch to that so do you think a Wanderer 7XL would work well? I know it's a bit on the hot side, but I don't really want to go above 4S as I might use an MM...and I want to try and keep the truck lightweight. Do you think 45mph would be attainable with this setup?:032: Then again, it'll be interesting to see what motors Castle produce with the MMM.

Incidentally, I think I'll probably use the Revo motor mount Mike has in store; it's much easier than making one and should fit the task perfectly.:027:

I think some experienced ppl here are saying an 8XL is just as capable as a 7XL is, just gear up. And it doesn't run as hot, I think I've even heard the 9XL as able as a 7XL. I think 45mph should be farily easily come by, IMO.

I'm thinking a single lipo pack sit behind the tranny width-wise. Maybe grind that engine mount off the chassis.

Who makes the TNX? It kinda looks like Schumacher made to me, with the teeny-weeny turnbuckles on it. :005:

Tamiya makes the TNX.

How about a Kontronik FUN600-25(2500 RPM)?

They're between a 1940 and a 1930. Very good priced.

Thanks for the ideas guys! I must admit that I've taken a look at the Kontronik Fun 600 motors, and although I'm sure they perform great, I'm just not very impressed (like the way that the input wires are part of the windings and apparently can't be soldered, etc). How about the Neu 1509/1.5Y? I could probably afford that. Would that be up to the task of pushing the TNX along? Looks to me like it's pretty capable with a 2000W burst output, but you guys have used these motors. The 1512/2D would obviously be more powerful, but is a bit more than I really want to spend.

Sorry to keep asking questions guys, but I just wanna get a feel for what'd be good in this truck. I really appreciate you help.:027:

MM has a cogging problem with the 4 pole neu motors. Most people use the quark when they run neus.

And the neu motors have got the wires coming out the very same way like the lehner high-amps and all the other brushless motors. Indeed; the windings are the wires, which is a good thing, lowering the internal resistance of the setup.

However; castle is currently working/testing a software update for this 'issue' they describe it as 'slotted and non slotted motors' This would be an option to choose from in the software. This would address and take care of the neu 'problem' on the MM controllers. I guess the slotted/non slotted means the way the stator is build in the BL motors, while with some motors (neu/plettenberg) you feel serious resistance when you turn the motor, others spin freely (feigao, BK)

The kontronik motors seem to be nice, but i found a nice inrunner of Robbe as well, named Roxy; i saw them on a exhibition in Germany, the person thought they had segmented magnets; their price is unbeatable, they had this massive tall motor, of about 10-15mm taller than the XL can, but it uses a slightly smaller in diameter magnet. (rotor)

Do you have a link to the Roxy?

Nope, seems like the robbe website is currently off-line.

I've seen them in person, they come in a somewhat softer shade of green than the mamba motors

Thanks for the insight guys, it's been helpful. It depends on what I can afford at the time really as to what motor I get; I've been also thinking about a 6S LiPo 8/9XL setup, but that'd of course require a beefier ESC than the MM. So many options! Assuming the MM gets the software update, do you think a Neu 1509 would be up to the job?
I've never had a Neu, so I don't really know what the 1509 would be capable of. Obviously a 1512 or 1515 would be better, but I can't really bring myself to spend over $200 on a motor. Bear in mind that this truck would be a basher, so I'd like a top speed of 45 to 50...I know that's asking a bit much from 4S.

Well, I think I've decided on a setup; a 7 or 8XL Wanderer, with a 4S MaxAmps 6000mAh lipo battery and an MM. As for mounting the battery...well I've stripped most of the truck down and this chassis plate has got to be THE most difficult plate to mount a brushless system on! No matter what I thought of (mounting the batt on the rear, front, reversing the centre gearbox, having the motor in the front, etc) nothing would quite fit!:035: I do have an idea though...and that's to simply make a battery plate (perhaps 3mm ali) that extends off the side of the chassis. It should be strong enough, and will look ok once I've stripped the anodizing off the chassis. I'll relocate the brake servo to the front, and have the motor mounted on the other side of the chassis to maintain balance.

Anyway I'll shutup now, as I'm sure this isn't very interesting to ya...but I'll post updates when I get started in a few months. Gotta amass some funds.:027:

I wouldnt use the maxamps 6000mah lipos, ive heard alot of bad things about them, they will suck especially in a heavy truck like the TNX..

Id reccomend the 5000mah 4s maxamps pack or if you can afford the 8000mah packs id go for those.. Another option would be the TrueRc lipos.. ive heard nothing but good things about the truerc packs.

They that bad? Come to think of it, I did hear some things a while back about the 6000 packs not being that great...hmm. 5000 would definitely be an option.
What do you think about the TrueRC 6600mah 4S3P pack here: http://home.comcast.net/~truerc/custompack.htm (scroll down a way). The 15C constant discharge seems like it should be up to the job. The TNX weighs barely more than a Maxx, so the workload wouldn't be massive. Does anyone have any experience with this pack?

Not a bad pack, but imo id spend the little extra and get the 8800 4s pack or the 8000mah 4s pack for $130.:)

Cool! Would the 8000 pack be up to the current draw though? the 80A constant sounds fine, but would the 120A burst be up to the task under acceleration? Sorry for the all the noob questions...you might have guessed that I've not used a LiPo pack before lol!

It shouldnt be much of a problem. Ill let AAngel or squee chime in on the TrueRc packs, but im sure they will be fine. If you want to be even safer, id use the 5s 8000mah, but than you cant use the MM.

Ok, thanks for the help. It's just hat I don't want to buy a pack and run the risk of pushing it too hard! I think I'll stick with 4S though; there's not enough room as it is, and 4S would probably chuck out enough power. As long as the system pushes the truck past 40, I'll be happy. :)