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Revo 22.2v
Well it's not really High Voltage so I can't call it Revo HV so I'm calling it Revo 22.2
I started with a new truck (didn't own a Revo). RC-Monster Revo motor mount 12XL motor CC 110HV ESC w/ PiStix adapter UBEC for power EVO-20 battery (great deal at 40% off) Steering HiTec HS-5955TG Still has 2-speed w/ reverse and mechanical brake. Using 3rd channel for the reverse servo and a y-split to do the brakes and ESC. It's still very light on it's feet but it's a porker now at 12.06lbs. I had an idea of the direction I wanted to go with the truck and what parts to get. Based on the advice given here and else where on the net. I didn't plan on buying it all at once but most of it went on clearance the day I was going to make an order so I got all the parts I wanted. A few things are left out of the picture and the Vantage chassis and center diff/rear brake are for a waterproof Revo I'm planning. And you guys are right 23mm Proline adapters are less then impressive. http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_0888.jpg http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_0924.jpg This is how the truck looked during the test fitting. There is not much clearance between the body and the ESC which worried me. But after running it is going to be fine till the cage comes. http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_0933.jpg http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_0932.jpg After a couple runs still going running great, only minor things, popped a ball out of the RPM carries (?) and had the set screw come loose on the pinion. The ESC is just warm and the motor isn't much more. http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_0937.jpg I planned on using Husky straps but couldn't find them so I used zip-ties. I have them now and will put them on this week. http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_0940.jpg This rat's nest is temporary till more parts come. http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_0942.jpg I made the battery box out of some.220" (5.588mm) polycarbonate that I had. It doesn't form as easy as I thought it would but it came out alright. http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_0944.jpg The body fits other then the filler opening. http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_0953.jpg |
Nice! I would cut the body out so the ESC is open. That way, the body won't hit it if you land on the lid.
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WOW, lol.
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DAMN!!!!!
i love that cc hv in there!! makes me what to copy what u did with a lmt or neu lol VERY nice work man! |
I'm curious if you could provide feedback on the HV110 + PiStix adapter, interms of controllability, smoothness, or whatever you can comment on.
Great conversion! |
Sweet job on the conversion. Really clean lay out. I was also going to ask how you are linking the HV110... also, what is a "PiStix adapter"?
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Very cool! How much runtime do you get with the 12xl?
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That will be an insane setup! nice!
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What Serum said! True!
I tried a 1950/12 on 6S once, insane. |
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The current issue I have is it seem to be getting a slight pause which at first I thought was it shifting but it's not. I'm not ready to blam the PiStix or CC110HV for that yet. I think it might just be my antenna which I have tucked on the side. I'm also sad that I can't wheelie on demand like many of you guys. It think between the slow motor, 1st gear and 15/40 it's a crawler till it hits second. It just squats and goes and does quickly but no big wheelies. But I guess fast and controllable is better. We don't have radar yet and I haven't timed a measured run. So top speed is unknown but it's in the high 30s with this gearing. The motor says cool (relative) so I could gear it more but I like it. Quote:
http://www.rc-hydros.com/pistix.html Quote:
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nice build, i like how mike has motor mounts for the revo, not more ghetto doing it your self.
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I am surprised that you can't wheelie on demand. Are you sure the slipper is set tight enung? That thing should be able to just about flip over from the torque. I was running a 10XL on 14 cells and it would easily flip if I wasn't careful - and that's with the ESC set to soft start power! I know you are using the extended chassis, and that should definitely make it harder to do, but I still think it should wheelie like mad!
I re-read your first post again and see that you had a problem with the pillow balls popping out. I had that issue with the stock carriers, but not once I put the RPM ones on. Do the balls have any play? They should not have any in/out play, but not bind either. The pillowball adjustment may loosen over time too, so you might want to check that. |
Mike also has got integy knuckles, which also use a larger outer bearing.
My guess is that if the slipper is tight, the controllers starting power can be set a bit more aggressive. (if you like wheelies) |
This is a similar setup to what I've been working on, altho I'm waiting on the MMM or R1MT and going to try 6S and maybe ~12XL. Tho I have been contemplating going to a Neu, perhaps the 1512 1700kv.
I've been working on my conv quite a bit lately and its been coming along. Nice to see your turned out so well. What about temps? |
Nice conversion,
I would recommend some angled aluminum to protect that Lipo pack. It's quite an investment and would be a shame if one accident took out the entire 6S. I experienced the same low end power issue with my HV110. By default, the HV is setup for soft start. I set mine to 100% and that fixed the low end power loss but I now have a little issue where the throttle seems to get stuck, just a touch, once I start out. This issue is tolerable for now as appying the brakes stops the vehicle but its not ideal. Just like everyone else, I'm hoping the MMM will be available soon. |
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I have 7 packs though it today 3 yesterday and 2 the a couple days before. So a total of 12 (12 x 25min = 5hrs total). It wasn't just it popped out I have a sizable jump and landed bad the wheel is bent too. They also had Dry Ice on them so the might have been a bit slipper then normal. And who knows I could have had that one loose. Most of this build took place between 1:00am-3:00am. So I might not have been awake. Quote:
I like li-po and it doesn't really scare me but I still treat it with respect. I do plan on trying some A123s with my next Revo. So it's one less thing to worry about. Plus as I mentioned it's getting and RC-Solutions cage soon. Which from the pictures I've seen will need to be modified on that side. So I might add some extra support to the box using the cage as a mount. So you think the low end power is the soft-start setting? I'll try the slipper first then I might try a different setting. Thanks guys. |
nice setup. i wil probly run my ESC in the exat same location as yours. but i am just waitin on the MMM. i hope its soon, my project is ready to be done
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Nice project! Any speed runs yet???? I'm curious how fast it will run!
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Well I can wheelie on demand now but it seems to be a bit too much. The stock axles can't take it with the new weight of the truck and the power pushing it.
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_0955.jpg http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_0956.jpg http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_0957.jpg |
DAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMN!!!
i havent even really seen them twisted like that! WOW man! |
What are you going to upgrade to?
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The new traxxas CVD's look nice. If you do buy them let us know how you like them!
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I will let you guys know about the Traxxas axles when I get them. I swapped new axles and tried the truck. I have no reverse and second doesn't engage all the time. So I'm not going to run it for a couple days till I can open it up. I might have to put the forward only kit on and lock it into second. The tape also came loose inside the rear tires.
The bright side I inspired a couple guys at work to get theirs out and work on them again. |
Very nice. I came so close to going this route with my e-CRT, but ended up going MM. Nice to see you pulled it off and it's running well. Nice work!
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It was low 70s today. Readings were taken during mid run and after the runs. The reported high is the MAX reading rounded up. The reported low is about the average temp over the whole area. These readings are all off-road runs on either the small track I built the driveway and front/side yard. "VERY Tall grass" readings are from un-mowed lawn length to can't see the truck and high enough to high center it tall. The front of the motor seems to hold more heat and was where I was reading the MAX. I didn't bother recording the motor heat sink temp the case temp what's important. The battery temp is only approx because of the readings are taken though shrink wrap. And can only read the top 2 cells. I was also taking the temp of the slipper and front brake disk but didn't really record them. Regular running/high speeds on 500' stretch Motor (on case not heat sink) - 150-163° F ESC (on heat sink) - 105-110° F Battery ~95° F Slipper - MAX 122° F Front disc brake - MAX 110° F Slow speeds/run ups for jumping Motor (on case not heat sink) - 140-155° F ESC (on heat sink) - 100-105° F Battery ~85-90° F Slipper - NONE Front disc brake - NONE VERY Tall grass/abuse run Motor (on case not heat sink) - 165-188° F ESC (on heat sink) - 120-126° F Battery ~105-110° F Slipper - MAX 132° F Front disc brake - NONE I have also made a few changes to the truck. Steering is now where is should be (I had more right then left?). The rear springs are now 33.7 lb/in fronts are 20.0 lb/in. The battery box is now mounted under the the AL tabs which both lowers the battery and helps to support the box during bad landings. I also took an idea from here to use a Home Depot Husky Hangalls strap for the battery. It works great and is cheap. But hard to find I had to order them off the website. After the 2 stores by me didn't have them. Add few more Ti things I had but hadn't put on. Still a mess but a little lighter and getting better every day. Tomorrow I lock it into second gear and put the rear brake on. http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_0999.jpg |
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