Need lipo suggestion
 

I need a 3 cell, roughly 3800-5000 mah, but 10c. Any ideas?

Usually, if you know the voltage, capacity (Ah), and max current your setup will require, it's just a matter of getting a pack that physically fits in the spot you have that doesn't weigh more than you want.

I would say maxamps packs?

All the max amps packs I see are 20c, and I don't need to pay double for the current capacity I don't need. I have some common sense 10c packs here at the hobbyshop, but there's a big gap between 3850 mah and 6000 mah.

Truerc if all you need is a 10C pack. Definitely the best bang for the buck going.

What is this for, kinda important to know?

Brushless rally car.

Do you mean a 1/10 scale rally car? I'm be looking at the maxamps 3S 5Ah packs or the similar packs from Kokam and flightpower. With lipo, it's not a bad idea to have more battery than you need, rather than push what you have to the ragged edge.

I agree, you are better off spending a little more for something that will most likely last longer, and perform better, and be more reliable all around.

Well it only pulls 15 amps, 25 burst, so nothing incredible.

Are you talking about a 1/18 scale car? If so, that changes everything, almost.

Could you be more specific about what you are running this in? If it is an 1/18 scale, those batteries are pretty cheap as it is. How inexpensive are you trying to get?

Yeah, we need to know the size and weight of the thing first.

I can't see a 1/10 car only sucking 25 amp bursts

It's a HPI RS4 rally, 1/10 scale, bout 53 ounces with a nimh battery. I have a nemesis blue motor, with which I'm not terribly happy with, but oh well.

What don't you like about the motor?

For a 1/10 scale car, I'd go with the Maxamps packs. If you really feel like you don't need the punch of a 20C pack, then you can afford to downsize, so to speak. I don't see how you can say that it will only pull around 25A though. I'm sure that it will pull more than that in bursts. If you get a 10C pack and wind up doing lots of bursts, you could fry up that 10C pack.

Not much power at all. My Hacker B50 8s performs much better than this 7s. And the Hacker is 6 years old.

It pulled 25 burst according to the watt meter, it was around 15 constant.

Shoot, I have a 1/18th and need 20c-30c seeing as the Li-Poly packs I use are only 1700mAh. I do have one 2200mAH pack that allows me to get away with a bit less C.

Crazy how low the current is on your 1/10 car.

OK then, I wonder if there is something wrong?. The 7s is rated for 5070kv (unloaded). With about 40ish amps through it, the kv would probably drop by 50 or so. On 2s lipo and geared right, it should be able to move quite well. 25A burst doesn't sound right. That should be pulling closer to (or higher than) 50A at a guess.

Granted, the 7s isn't a high-end motor, but it should still go quite well. After running the setup a while, what is the hottest component?

The battery seems to be getting the hottest, the motor is moderate, esc's fairly warm. I have a sneaky feeling my mamba max is on the way out.

I have the 6s by the way, my bad.

The battery and esc being hot while motor cool usually means it is overgeared for that vehicle. Is it the top speed or the off-the-line power you are unsatisfied with? Just curious because if the top speed is higher than you need, you could gear down.

You might also want to mess with the MM settings through castle link software...

I've used a range of gearing with similar temperature results, obviously the performance differed though. I've got the MM settings right about where they should be. So I dunno.