Neu 1515/2.5D or 1512/1.5Y, 2.5D... which motor?
 

Hey guys,

I am considering buying a Neu motor fairly soon, I am just unsure which one I should jump for, as this is a fairly large R/C investment.

I would like decent power right now with my 5s2p A123 pack, as well being able to easily handle >18volt setup down the road.

So between these:

1515 2.5D

1512 1.5Y or 2.5D

WHat is it going into?

I have run the 1512/2.5D and the 1515/2.5D. I prefer the 1512 for bashing because i can gear it for a higher speed without overheating the esc. With everything else the same, I could get around 5mh faster with the 1512/2.5D. The problem wasnt the motor heat, it was that when I tried to gear up the lower KV motor, it would draw to much current and overheat the esc. The 1512 has much power if not more than the XL motors, which is plenty in my book.

I would imagine that in a really heavy truck you might want to go with the bigger motor though. Thats why I asked what it was going into.

EDIT: all of this was run on 5s Lipo.

haha Jeff we need to meet up some day to figure this one out..

the 1512 was too hot in my LSP, and also heated up my quark quite a bit as well. I'm now running the 1515, and geared it up to match speed, and I can barely feel any warmth from the 1515 or the quark.. are you talking about your truggy or matrix? my experience was 5s as well.

This is in a maxx truck which weights right now rully loaded with 7XL ~9.5 lbs.

That's what I have heard, different stories about the 1515 or the 1512 drawing too much current...? :032:

Also, I am using a Quark, and am waiting for my machinist to get the FET heatspreader clamp made for me, so no heat problems here... at least hopefully.

A4DTM, LOL. We are going to have to agree to disagreee on this. :) Glad to hear the 1515 is working out good for you.

I originally had the 1515 in my revo and then got a 1512/2.5d for my XLB conversion. I like it so much but I pulled it from my XLB to replace the 1515 in my revo. Then the 1515 found its way to my matrix, but that was really just to large of a motor for that light little truck so it got pulled and traded to you for my 2nd 1512/2.5d. Now I'm not even using the 1512 you traded to me. I actually went even smaller on the motor for the Matrix and I'm running a Lehner 1930 now and really think that its right on the money (still needs more testing though). The your old 1512 will soon find a home in my brushless XLB which is the motor that I originally ran in it and liked it so much.

The 1515 and 1512 have both been run in a bunch of different vehicle. I was more specifically talking about my revo. I have had alot more sucess with the 1512 in my revo than I did with the 1515. I have had alot more sucess with the 1512 in general. Dont get me wrong... The 1515 is awesome too. But I really feel like unless you have a real heavyweight vehicle (13-14+ lbs), you are better off getting a using a properly sized motor. Its my feeling that the whole system runs better when the motor is the right for the job.

ZPB, In reality, if you are used to running an XL motor, no matter which Neu motor you choose you will be very happy. Its just head and shoulders better than the Feigaos.

So the 1512 2.5D should be good power on 5s2p (for now) with a 9.5lb maxx?

I am hearing this a lot now that ppl are really liking the smaller motors with the faster spool up...more agile.

I have no problem saving $50 CAD on with the 1512. :027:

With a 9.5lb truck you will love the 1512. PLENTY of power IMO. My revo is right about 10lbs and I really love the match.

EDIT: I run 5s2p on it all day for bashing. 4s2p for the occational track use.

Just making sure, you do know that 5s A123 is equivalent to 4s LiPo right?

Yes. I run my savage on 5s a123 for hard bashing. Its actually more like 4.5s lipo. I would even consider the (2200kv) 1515/1y instead of the 1515/2.5D if you go the 1515 route. I like power:p.

On 5s a123 the 2000kv motor would be great. It will run nice and cool.

zpb, I had my motor for a short time, before I sent it back to Neu. Although I did have the suspicion about it being a mislabeled motor, when I geared it right it ran very well.

It had no troubles pushing my 10.5lb truggy around with authority on 5S lipo. I was able to get the temp on the motor up to around 165, but I was dogging it like I'd never dog it when either bashing or racing. I was trying to make it overheat, and couldn't.

The Neus are dynamite motors.

In fact, I'm thinking of picking up a 2600kv model for my buggy, which I do nothing but speed runs with now. I just need a motor to run with my Compro.

Just making sure. You think it's 4.5 LiPo? I guess I have been comparing it to Trakpower's, 5s A123 is 4s Trakpower, according to eagletree.

Okay, so it's between the 1.5Y and the 2.5D, 1900Kv or 2000Kv...... oooh the choices! :005:

Yeah, when you get your Neu back you must mate it up to your Quark again and let me know how it runs okay? Run it on 4s lipo, and run it as hard as you can, the max temp it gets here in the summer is roughly 35c, but usually 25-30c. So if I can get a good idea of how cool it runs down in the hot hot south, then it will only run that much cooler up here.

I might just get the same 1.5Y motor as you.

I'll be sure to let you know how it goes. I do like the smaller motor, but the drawback to the whole 1512 line is that the kv rating jump from 2000 to 2600. In the 1512 line, we are pretty much stuck with a 2000kv ceiling. I would like to have seen a 2200kv 1512 offering.

Me too, I guess if you combine the 1515 and 1512 series, there are more Kv. options.

Hope you get the Neu back soon. :027:

Just curious; does Neu take custom wind orders?

hmmm, maybe. :032:

How about a 1512 2.75D motor?

I'm just thinking that if enough people have a desire for a different kv rating in a 1512 case, Mike might be able to get a batch done and save a few bucks by doing a multiple order...

2600 kv in the smaller motors may not be that bad, other than gearing down enough in some set ups. My Lehner 1930/8 is 2613 kv, with 12/46 gears it works out to 37mph. Rpms are upper 30,000's, but still under 40,000.

I would sure like to try a Neu, but I don't want to spend the money on a Quark that I have to take apart and modify to even use, when the MM is half the price and no mods required!

What Kv. are you thinking? It would be nice like AAngel said to have a ~2200Kv. 1512 motor.

bdebde, it seems like it is a recent batch of Quarks that have been cursed with faulty 'something', be it SFC (spontaneous FET combustion :005: ), or like AAngel said, S&T said they had a batch of sub pair capacitors in their Quarks.

I had both happen to both of my Quarks...

3 bone stock Mambas and no probs (knock on wood). Think I will stick with them!

Yeah, something like 2200 or 2300 was what I was thinking since the 2d is 2600 and the 2.5d is 2000. Although, now that I really look at the Kv spread, a difference of 600 is about average...

Wasn't sure if I should resurrect the "Quark died...blown cap" thread :eek:

So I'll post it here, I was just talking with a guy from S&T, I asked about the issues with the Quark and 6s lipo voltage; he said all is needed is an extra external capacitor...?

I was suspecting this, but can it be this simple of a fix? or inconvenient for some...

Just letting you know.

I think you outta try it ZPB. :)

I'll try it! As soon as I get a chance. I would love to run 6s for those goof off times when you just want the WOW factor. I havent put capcitors on my Revo yet, but I will as soon as I can and then try out 6s to see if the cogg is better than it used to be. I havent run 6s In so long due to that cogging issue that I can hardly remeber what it was like. I just remember getting some sever cogging when trying to start from a standstill.

Cant hurt to try. The quark in my revo is one of the very first that Mike sold and its still going strong. Its been thhrough many 6s packs back when I just dealt with the cogging for the first 5 minutes.

If it works that would be great. I'll let you know what I find. It might take me a week or so to get to it, but I'll do it.

Yes, give it a try please! I can't BrianG, I only have 16.5v A123, thats it. My Quark isn't here either, should be here tomorrow maybe.

This will be great if it's a good fix! :017:

I might just consider a 7s2p A123 pack then.

I don't know if they could even do it; it would take 1/4 turns. A 1y would be about 2900 kv.

That's no excuse! After all, it's only money. ;)

bdebde: yeah, a 1/4 turn would be kinda hard.

Who you talkin to?

lol, what are you talking about? ;)

HA, good one!

hee hee. :)

I wonder why there is no 1Y. If you can extrapolate the progression of the kv ratings, a 1Y would have a kv rating of 2400, which would be close.

Now...on the 6S issue. I have an older 4S2P 6Ah pack that has a bad cell in it, so I do have at least 6 good 3Ah cells. I might wire them up in series and see what happens. The pack won't have much punch, but might give me an idea of what it will do.

As for my Neu motor, tomorrow will make a week since Neu received it. Of course, I'm still complaining, but I would have thought that the circumstances surrounding my having to send the motor back would have gotten my issue some sort of preferential treatment.

I sent Neu an email yesterday, and this is the response that I got...
With all of the trouble that I had with the Quark, I was hoping for better luck with the Neu; and after all of the good things that I heard about Neu, I was expecting something more than what I have seen so far. Perhaps I'm being unreasonable, but it's the way I feel.

I've been doing a lot of research on the Neu motors lately and I often find myself on some helicopter forum. It seems to be the same everywhere I go. Most are talking about how awesome the Neu motors perform and then there are some talking about the way that the shaft just slid out of the motor or the rear endbell popped off.

At this point, I do know one thing. I have had my issues with Castle over the past couple of months, with support not being what it used to be; but, I'll guarantee you that if I had called Castle with the same problem that I had with the Neu, Castle would have sent a new motor out PDQ.

At least I can say that I've gained some experience and I know who I want to continue to do business with. I know for a fact that I spent over $10,000 on this hobby last year, and I'm not too far behind this year. I've grown rather tired of having to wait to run my stuff because someone else screwed up. Heck, I've got a brand new Compro that's never been able to get all the way around my track, and MGM has had it longer than I have.

OK, down off of the soap box.

BrianG, I just bought two dewalt 36v packs, I will make a 7s2p pack for my truck, I am determined to make this work. I would want Mike to order in a 1512/3D then, that would bring the under load, and considering volt drop rpm of ~33,000.

Or is there a different wind that would be better suited to that voltage, I us 2.8v/cell for A123 for real world calcs.

zpb, since you have shown the most interest in the cap mod, I'll ask you. I realize that Frank's advise regarding the caps was, "the more the merrier," but just how many do you think will be enough?

The whole idea of having that separate box is neat and all that, but the length of the wire connecting the box to the esc has me a bit worried. I'm just wondering why I'm not seeing the same benefits that I did with the MM, when I added the caps. Maybe just soldering two additional caps directly to the pcb is the way to go.

Have you decided which motor it is that you want to go with? I'm thinking of trying a 1512 2600kv motor, but don't want to buy another 1512 right now. What I'd ultimately like to have is one 1515 1Y or 2.5D and one 1512. If I decide to go with the 1515 in the truck, I'll be looking to dump the 1.5Y in favor of the 2600kv model for my buggy, which has been relegated to parking lot racing duty.

I can personally guarantee the 1512 2d will be more than enough for the buggy!

zpb, I don't have as much experience as Brian does, but I like to keep the rpms under 30,000 for a truck. Something between 25-30K has worked very well for me; but I base my judgments of success or failure on track performance.

And your complaining about Neus 1-2 week turn around. I dont know about your experience with waranty repairs, but 2 weeks sounds good to me. I had to get a TV fixed under waranty and it took them over 2 months to get it done.

Schedule an apointment with a repair person. Wait 2 weeks. Have them find the problem and order a part. 2 weeks. Have them try to install the part only to find that they ordered the wrong part. Have them order the correct part and schedule a new apointment. 2 weeks. Nobody shows up for the repair appointment. Call... Complain... Nobady cares.... Schedule an new apointment. 2 weeks. Finally fixed.

1-2 weeks seems like good service from what I am used to.

Just my $0.02...

Yes, I am complaining. Two weeks would be acceptable if I had gotten the motor and then something unforseen happened and I had to send it back in after I had the opportunity to really run it.

I got my motor brand spankin' new and right out of the box it had to be sent in. Like I said, if this had happened with a Castle product, they would have sent a new one out right away. That's what I'd call good customer service.

Even with the Quarks. A few people have had trouble with the recent units. I had to send two back in a row, but each time that I sent one in, total turn around time was a week.

BTW, sorry to hear about your television. You should have gotten it at Sears. LOL. My Sony gave me trouble after having had it a month and I had someone out the next day and they fixed it on site.

Yea... It was a sony. Got it at the local "electronics giant" It was the manufactures warranty folks though. Problem was getting saturday appointments. I cant be here during the day on weekdays.

My wife just reminded me that I spent an extra $300 on the extended warranty. That may very well be why I got my repair done so quickly. My wife was like, "don't you remember how lousy the Sears person said that Sony support was?" So...there you go.

Sony is the MGM of televisions. LOL.