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brushless revo self design frame
I wanted a BL truck/buggy for a long time.
Then the idea came to convert a revo to BL with my own desgined frame. I Started to draw with the following spec. in mind: - the frame has to carry 16 nihm cells (maybe a batt. tray for 7 cells each side) - center differentieel - 1 steering servo - rc tekno reciever box - quark 125b with Feigao 8XL The frame is nearly finished, now I have to deside wether I'll use battery trays or just battery slots. and what thikness I 'm gonne use for the parts. I you have some tips for me I would like to hear them! feel free to comment! here are some pics of the frame in designing fase (some things are changed now) here you can see the upperdeck and the "TVP's" http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums...pperdeck~0.GIF here you can ses the battery slots http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums...%20frame~0.GIF this is a sketch of the frame in the "beginning" http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums...naamloos~0.JPG |
wow, that looks great, very similar to the G-maxx chassis but with your own unique flair
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Waterjet or laser cutting?
Looks like a solid design. Not much to critique. I would be a little worried about the offset of the front and rear holes on the lower plate. Not that is should be a problem cutting as much as strength. What is your planned layout for electronics? Are you going to be supporting the rear of the motor some how? |
wow looks good, i agree with eccentric the motor looks like it is just hanging there. but i like the curved looks.
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de offset of the holes on the front and the rear lower plate have changed in de last desings. for electronics, in de front there will be one steering servo, on the other side there will come a tekno reciever box. for the esc I will make a plate that I can attach on the side of the TVP's I don't know if I'm going to support the rear end of the motor. Would the rc-monster motor clamp help to support the motor? |
In theory it should do, plus it will prevent the endbells fron popping of the motor. So long as the motor mount is nice and thick, and the mounting screws are long enough (but not too long so that they go inside the motor), it should be fine. I like the idea of TVPs, should make the chassis much stiffer.
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Looks awesome! how about designing some replacement braces for the gorilla chassis' that incorporate a central motor and centre diff,a conversion for a conversion so to say.
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ps. what thickness shall I make the chassis? |
well, it practically is a gmaxx chassis, the only difference are the braces and some shapes, why now go that route?
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1/8 or 3mm should provide the strength you need. Maybe up to 3/16 or 5mm on the motor mount (although I still think 1/8th would do it on the motor mount too). The support braces would probably need to be 3/16 or 5mm for sure to allow for screw holes.
One more note. I would not try laser cutting the screw holes, it will turn out messy as aluminum creates to much slag on the laser even if the setup is perfect. The screw holes should be done on a CNC Milling machine. |
It's time for a little update.
everything is cut from 3 and 2mm 7075 alu, the motor/diffmount is made from 7mm alu. it's nearly finished now, I only have to bend the front and back kickup and make some spacers. then I can finish it (polisch it). here are some pics. http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums...0/DSC00559.JPG http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums...0/DSC00560.JPG |
Nice! How much does it weigh?
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Have you test fit the bulkheads in it yet? How did you measure the hole locations for the bulkheads? (I'd be interested in obtaining that data from you, if possible).
If it were me, I'd C'sink as many of those fasteners as possible. btw, looks great! |
Now that's MT pron right there. It looks so professional and factory, its truelly stunning. +1 to countersinking as many screws as possible & using countersunk allen screws/bolts- that would be the icing on the cake.
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Have you find a rear center drive shaft long enough to plug the center diff output and the rear diff???
Realy nice man, a piece of art. And more, if your chassis realy work well, PM me and i'll take one for sure. Always dream of a revo with 1/8 center diff. |
@BrianG
the frame with centerdiff weigths 492 grams, it sounds havy?? :neutral: indeed, the back wil have a kick down @JThiessen I measured everything with a caliper. I don't know de excact distance from the holes of the top to the holes on the bottem. al the screws will be countersinking, but thats for later. @david lamontagn for the rear center drive shaft I use a shaft that usualy goes from the front/rear diff to the whiel. ps. thanks for al the comments so far!! |
Wow thats amazing.. great job. Cool to see something go from an idea to reality. Looking forward to seeing it come together.
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Amazing work. It will be all worth it once it is finished and drivable.
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Nicely done man, that looks great, it sounds heavy but at least its ready for a big time brushless motor and looks very professional. Any plans for a production run?
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Personally, if you have anymore made, I would use 6065 T6 and or CF.
Looks great, by the way! |
okee, the frame is almost finished!
the only things I have to is make a few ofstands and countersink a few screws. the only problem is I can't drive it at the moment, one maxamps cell just blew up:neutral:, the pack wasn't even handwarm. (I allready send them a mail but they don't answer) here are some pics of the car. http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums...0/DSC00562.JPG http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums...0/DSC00565.JPG http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums...0/DSC00566.JPG |
wow - that looks amazing!
i'll chime in with whomever said it earlier - if you make a production run, count me in!! |
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Oh yes, thats the good stuff. I have no plans for an E-revo, but if I did, thats what it would be....
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That's simply amazing machine work, remie! I like that you went with 7075 T6 Aluminum as well. That is some tough stuff - almost as tough as Titanium, I believe.
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I missed the first parts of this thread.
I have to say. Nice job. You did good on the design. It gets two thumbs up. Is it a little longer then stock? |
That is the absolutely sweet. Bad luck with the Maxamps though. It should be an awesome little truck to run.
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Very nice work.
6061 is strong but bends and scratches too easy. 7075 is an ideal choice for the chassis. 7075 costs a little more but is worth the money in the long run. I am using Lipo's as well so i made myself a custom bottom plate without cutouts for the batts. This was to protect my Lipo's from getting puntured from below. This might be something to consider for the future. The solid bottom plate around the batts adds some ounces but helps me feel better about the abuse I'm putting them through. :smile: |
The chassis is a little longer then the revo 3.3 chassis.
I'm considering to sell a few of these frame's, but I first have to look for a company that can produce them, now everythings is made by fellow rc-ers. ps. maxamps send me a replace cell. |
Amazing work on the chassis. Very, very nice. Looking forward to see how it does for you.
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Wow, that is incredible. I'll take one as well if you make a few to sell.
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That chassis with a truggy diff that mike has.
That would be great. Talk to mike. He may know people to make chassis. Not sure though since be comp for gorilla. |
Perhaps he & Mike shoud talk to GorillaMaxx together- a Revo G2r or Gmaxx chassis with centre diff would sell like hotcakes....
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uuuummm bump? LOL :)
Awesome work man I love it!! |
thanks for the compliments so far!
Yesterday I ordered a few stuff for the car. I now have 50,000 weight in the center diff, but the front tires keep spinning and baloning, so I'm gone try a few things. I olso bougt a proline crowd pleazer 2.0 and Teckno wing mount. I hope that the new stuff is going to solve the problem. kind regards remie |
Remie you should honestly thing about producing this chassis! Its a work of art :)
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Remie,
Would it be possible to send me the cad drawings of your chassis? I plan on making my own e-revo chassis and have yet to receive my revo so getting a head start on designing the chassis would be much appreciated. Of I would change the design around so that yours is still unique. Please let me know how you feel about this. Thanks, Tyler BTW, the chassis looks great and I wish I had your design skills. :-) |
haha, no sorry.
the drawings stay on my computer :wink: ps. I will post some pics of the car very soon when I have airbrushed my body. does anyone have some idee's for a paint scheme? |
Darn, lol. Maybe I can get the length from front to back of the lower plate :-)? Well anyways, im looking forward to seeing more pics of the truck. Any word on if you'll be able to sell the chassis?
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It's time for a update with pictures and troubleshooting!
I've changed quite a few things on the car, for example: - taped the inside of the tyres against baloning - dyed my rims, I bought black dye but somehow they came out red, the same with the rockers - cleaned the cabling - attached protective foam on the battery tray end made some straps for holding the battery - mounted a spoiler - and offcourse painted a body for the car (crowd pleazer 2.0) The car handles fine so far, accept the esc. It keeps shutting me of for some kind reason (maybe thermaling?) I've put my eagle tree between de batt. and esc to collect some data. here's a graph: http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums..._revo_data.JPG I'm using the following setup: - stock revo front and rear diff - center diff 46t gear - 13t pinion - 8xl motor - maxamps 4400mah 12 nihm cells - monster quark 125b Last but not least here are some pictures of the ride: http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums...DSC00562~0.JPG http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums...0/DSC00563.JPG http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums...0/DSC00564.JPG http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums...DSC00566~0.JPG http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums...0/DSC00567.JPG |
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